Deep Necklines, Silver Suiting and the Modish Military
Because Paris Fashion Week wasn’t just for the ladies – here, all you need to know.
Paris Fashion Week in September means a female exploration of couture and RTW from the luxury houses. But between the gowns and the girls lives a solid slice of menswear moments – here, our five favourites from the week that was.
With Demna Gvasalia announcing his departure from Vetements, much attention was cast over Balenciaga’s Parisian happening. The 91-look show brought in elements of the everyday as featured via the Vetements stable – real people, ranging from artists, engineers, law students, dressed in work uniforms alongside unreal types such as Bella Hadid. Broad shouldered suits were customisable and also exaggerated, with candy coloured metallics and big puffer jackets also making their way through the room, in which everything (including the ceiling and chairs) was the same shade of blue.
Balenciaga SS20 – Photos: left – Victor Virgile, right – Estrop
As with Balenciaga, Margiela, led by the fabled (and oft-controversial) John Galliano, saw uniforms (everything from nuns to world war soldiers) inspiring a modern merge of such broad sartorial plays. Still, this was no Frankenstein patchwork, with the tailoring emphasised and meticulously distressed. Pieces were intentionally warped – perhaps to say that reflections of the past may not often be presented exactly how we remember.
Maison Margiela SS20 – Photos: left by Victor Virgile, right by Estrop
Is the world ready for a return of the deep-v-neck t-shirt? Here at Robb Report we’re not too sure – that early aughts period one we’d like to move past – but Marant certainly seems to think it’s time. Her bohemian-meets-festival imbued collection featured ponchos, cut-off and frayed relaxed fit trousers and sleeveless knits, as well as the aforementioned tee. It’s relaxed, fun and all worn in one effortless flourish.
Isabel Marant SS20 – Photos by Kristy Sparow
After Timothee Chalamet appeared on the red carpets of Venice in his Haider Ackermann dove grey tailored effort, eyes were always going to be on this Paris showing. Similar themes flowed (quite literally) through the fabric choices, suit-come-robes and the fluid genderless forms Ackermann has become a specialist of. It’s not a question of if, but when, we’ll see more H.A on red carpets around the world.
Haider Ackermann SS20 – Photos by Peter White
On the eve of McCartney’s Spring 2020 Ready to Wear show, the designer hosted a roundtable meeting to discuss the climate change crisis and the fashion industry’s response. Leading by example, the latest collection is 75% eco-friendly marking her most sustainable collection ever. Stella’s men wore boxy pastel blue suits – continuing this year’s colour trend – as well as block floral tailoring. It’s a new season, and the green shoots of sustainable fashion are on display for all to see. Also, floral tailoring!
Stella McCartney SS20 – Photos: left – Dominique Charriau, right – Estrop