Shear Magic: wool’s journey from Australia to Italy

How a bale of Australian greasy wool weaves its way into some of the world’s most luxurious suits.

By Nicholas Atgemis 06/01/2019

The drive from Milan to the province of Biella was a fast one, rarely dipping below 160km/h and in the bandwidth of speed that, at home in Australia, means instant loss of one’s driving licence for a year. Sensing my unease, Giovanni slowed down.

I hadn’t come to this part of northwestern Italy to follow in the footsteps of Australian F1 driver Daniel Ricciardo, but to follow the journey of an Australian bale of wool. Biella is a part of the story of so much of what most of us will only ever see as a ‘greasy’ fleece (the term for unprocessed wool) laid out on a classing table, or as a finished suit.

Everything that happens in between is almost a mystery. Why don’t we process wool in Australia? What exactly is it that the Italians do? And why is Italy still at the top of the game?

There are few better people to ask than my driver, Giovanni. At the turn of the the 20th century, Giovanni Schneider’s great-grandfather built textile weaving machines for the Marzotto textile business in northeastern Italy. After the Great War, his son, Giovanni II, secured funding from local textile families and emigrated to Australia, promising to source and export greasy wool on their behalf.

Thus began the GSchneider Group which, in 1950, began to move vertically from mere wool trading to producing wool tops (fibres processed into uniform strands) here in Biella. In the ’90s the Biella plant ventured further into processing, as Italian rivals retreated from the rise of China. The factory is one of only three facilities in Europe that can take a bale of greasy wool and take it through the process of washing, scouring, blending, ‘carding’ (aligning the fibres and removing clumps) and combing. What emerges are slivers of wool that become rope-like wool tops, ready to be delivered to be dyed before being spun into thread.

An interesting (and patriotic) point in the process is that, during the initial washing, lanolin is extracted from Australian Merino. It is on-sold to the cosmetics industry, bringing an additional revenue stream to the Biella plant.

Today, about three-quarters of the world’s wool goes to lower-cost producers in China. Biella’s two remaining plants focus on higher-grade fibres destined for weaving into suit cloths and luxury knits. In fact, familiar luxury names like Brunello Cucinelli, Marzotto, Zegna and Loro Piana all have shares in this facility. Their local competitor is a partnership between Reda and Vitale Barberis Canonico.

Vitale Barberis Canonico cites a history back to 1663, though some have scoffed at this. There’s a great deal of snobbery in these parts, where lineage and prestige matter. Meanwhile, Giovanni Schneider IV was on the mobile phone, orchestrating for me to be picked up by the side of the road to be driven to Trivero, in the Biellese Alps, where he had arranged for me to tour the VBC plant.

Another rapid trip ensued in the hands of a different driver, Silvio. The landscape on the winding ascent was more Switzerland than Italy; there was something unusual about the buildings that I couldn’t put my finger on.

Vitale Barberis Canonico begins dyeing wool tops in large bullet-shaped chambers. Robots place the wool tops into vats that heat them to 70 ̊C; the temperature varies over a three-hour cycle to ensure the dye penetrates. After drying, the wool tops are sent to the spinners who prepare the fibres and twist and turn them into threads.

This is quite an art form – akin to blending grape varieties – as the fibres are mixed between varieties (think Merino, cotton, mohair, cashmere, silk and linen) and colour.

The Vitale Barberis Canonico facility occupies multiple buildings and employs machines, robots and people to produce more than 10 million metres of wool fabric every year.

Between the washing of the wool and the finishing treatments, the process consumes water at the rate of 60 litres per finished metre of fabric. Vitale Barberis Canonico today has a large and extensive water treatment centre adjacent to the plant, but it’s this need for water that largely explains why Biella became the hub of wool textile processing. The water that melts from the Italian Alps is ‘soft’, or low in minerals, and there’s plenty of it.

The plant is very secretive about the names on its machines and the weaving processes they use. Biella province was once home to around 500,000 people; it’s today closer to 200,000. Over the past 20 years, many in the industry have shut up shop or moved offshore, while the two that have remained have had to invest in automation. While they pride themselves on inspecting every metre of cloth at every stage with their own eyes, in time those eyes may be digital.

I was introduced to Michele Papouzzo, head of the cloth design team. Despite the relatively remote location, Michele was impeccably dressed in navy melange pants, belt, white shirt and a double four-in-hand knotted tie on a sky-blue garza weave. This is Italy, of course.

I learned that I had many misconceptions about weaving looms. The types of designs that can be woven in wool are much less complex than those possible with a jacquard loom for silk. More importantly, most of those 10 million metres of wool are done in simple dark blues and greys, varying in weaves and weights. The market for more vibrant wools is minimal.

I was also fortunate to meet Francesco Barberis Canonico, creative director of VBC and, as such, the man behind the very fabric of so many suits from famous designers, including Armani, Versace, Prada, Gucci and Ralph Lauren.

Collected again by Giovanni Schneider, we ascended the mountain farther, stopping by his maternal great-grandfather’s house: Casa Zegna. Ermenegildo Zegna is understandably legendary in these parts, a fastidious man who built not only a business, but a town and a proud culture around textiles and tailoring. His house, mostly boarded up, is maintained by a family foundation. A small walkway still joins the house to the weaving and making factory, operating today much as it always has.

From such a quaint and essentially Italian scene, I wasn’t quite prepared for the blast of Australian ambience I would encounter soon after at the Schneider plant.

As Giovanni opened the factory door, it was almost as though I was in the shearing shed with the shearers and wool classers. There was row upon row of hyper-compressed wool bales, stacked ceiling-high and marked with maps of Australia and stencils like ‘Pomanara Mudgee AusFine’.

The bales are opened in a special machine – so tightly are they compressed, they could injure or kill as they explode apart – and allowed to sit for a few days to air and expand. We moved into the washing room, where a bath resembling a set from Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory takes Merino wool and proceeds to wash virtually all of the Australia out of it, forks dipping and lifting the wool in and out of varying temperatures, the process continuing until white and fluffy wool emerges from the other side. The sooty brown water is diverted to another treatment process, where the lanolin is extracted into blue drums to be transported away.

The wools were next sent to a machine that mixes them together to create a uniform staple (cluster of fibres), which will help the spinners to weave an even thread. Then the wool is carded and combed to straighten and align the fibres and remove any vegetable matter that may have remained from the original fleece. As the machines continued running the wool, it began to look like a mane of hair, turned into a loose rope. This was cabled onto large drums, before being compressed into a wool top.

The same process also holds for mohair, cashmere and indeed, the €4 million-worth of vicuña Andean llama wool that had recently been air freighted here from South America. The Schneiders’ plant runs 24 hours a day, six days a week.

As we prepared to leave, I was shown the power plant, a natural gas-operated engine room that generates the power and steam for the factory. The water, soft from the Italian Alps that framed the backdrop, is drawn from aquifers. There is nothing here that we don’t have in Australia; except that the Italians have spent more than 100 years developing and refining their processing methods. Between that and our wool, it’s a formidable and fruitful partnership.

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How Off-the-Rack Suits Got Sophisticated Enough to Win Over Bespoke Guys

Ready-to-wear tailoring has never been better, and it offers even the most particular dressers a fast, easy platform for experimenting with their look.

By Aleks Cvetkovic 18/02/2025

The world moves fast—and for once, tailoring is moving a little bit faster.

Guys around the globe are rediscovering their love of suits, but many have determined that they can’t stomach the monthslong wait for bespoke. The good news? Ready-to-wear tailoring has never been better.

That’s in part because bespoke makers are beefing up their off-the-rack offerings. Anderson & Sheppard’s shop-in-store at N.Y.C.’s Bergdorf Goodman—the first outpost beyond its London flagship— opened in December with, among other things, a sharp wool-and-cashmere jacket in a delightful shade of teal. Huntsman’s recent fall-winter collection, billed as its most comprehensive assortment yet, offered everything from tuxedos to shooting breeches. Even Leonard Logsdail, Hollywood’s highly esteemed bespoke purveyor, is experimenting with hem-and-go models.

But non-custom tailors are upping the ante, too. Some of the best ready-to-wear suits on the market come from such brands, whose wholly distinctive points of view provide a welcome departure from the rigidity of many bespoke tailors’ house styles. The preponderance and diversity of such high-quality, easy-to-access threads has recast off-the-rack suits as the ultimate way to experiment with your look, not just a way for some to get dressed on the cheap. What’s more, it reflects the new reality that even people who suit up regularly might want to show up looking different on Thursday night than they did on Tuesday morning.

“Life nowadays is much more fluid,” says Chris Modoo, a London-based stylist who once worked as a tailor on Savile Row. “Things happen, invitations appear. You might get an invite for a black-tie party in the South of France for next Saturday.” Ready-to-wear is the obvious solution when you’re in a last-minute menswear quandary, but “it also means you can try new things.”

One maker worth a test-drive is Husbands Paris, founded by Nicolas Gabard, who sees his role as an “archivist of the past.” His look, inspired by stylish men such as Yves Saint Laurent, David Hemmings, and Gary Cooper, is unabashedly striking—think long, fully canvased jackets, broad lapels, structured shoulders, and wide-leg, high-waisted trousers. These wares are made in small workshops in Italy and Portugal, where craftspeople infuse them with high-end details such as hand-sewn buttonholes and silk bar tacks, a form of stitching that reinforces seams and pockets.

Thom Sweeney L.A. store Brett Wood

They’re the kind of touches any menswear enthusiast can appreciate—even if they’re the trees to Gabard’s style forest. Clothes like this are designed as a form of wearable self-assurance, enhancing what Gabard calls a “classically masculine” silhouette: broad shoulders, slim waist, narrow hips.

“Of course, tailoring has to fit well, but it also has to bring something else,” he says. “More and more [Husbands] customers want to be confident, powerful, and sexy in their outfit.”

When you want to look more suave than soigné, turn to the indie Milanese brand Massimo Alba, which is known for its chic casualwear but made its name with easygoing tailoring. “A great suit is not just about the way it fits but about the way it makes you feel,” says the eponymous label’s founder of his relaxed approach. “For me, the essence lies in balance, between structure and softness, elegance and ease. In my opinion, a suit should adapt to the wearer, not the other way around.”

Alba’s creations are cut from plush materials such as corduroy and flannel, featuring natural shoulders and only the lightest of canvasing in the chest, which results in a less-formal look. Which is not to say they aren’t workhorses: Daniel Craig wore one of Alba’s Sloop suits to dodge bullets in 2021’s James Bond film No Time to Die. “I always focus on fabrics that move with the body, details that whisper rather than shout, and cuts that allow for freedom,” Alba adds.

And freedom is precisely what this newfound inventory of great ready-to-wear tailoring provides. Modoo advises some clients to look to bespoke tailors for investment-level garments, such as morning suits, tuxedos, or the dark, serious stuff you might need for a funeral or odd courtroom appearance. “You know you’re going to wear these for 10 or 15 years,” he says. Let the new class of distinctive ready-to-wear step in when you want to try something that just wouldn’t make sense as a bespoke order. “Your pink-velvet blazer for the Christmas party? How well does that need to fit?”

London bespoke tailor Caroline Andrew is one of many who admits ready-to-wear has its place. Courtesy of Caroline Andrew

Fortunately, with so many options available, the fit is easier to dial in. You can expect most high-end operations to make a long list of changes, from ensuring that the seat of the trousers drapes appropriately to cutting working buttonholes on the jacket. For a peerless experience, you can always reach for garments from one of the many talented bespoke tailors offering ready-to-wear. At Thom Sweeney, such clothes are “all influenced by our bespoke cut,” says Thom Whiddett, who cofounded the brand with Luke Sweeney in 2007. “You try on [our ready-to-wear] jacket, and you immediately get a sense of the proportions and shapes that we put into a bespoke garment.”

That alluring sense of near-instant gratification is the point. For some, nothing will ever replace the distinguished feeling of slipping into a bench-made suit—and plenty are willing to wait for it.

“You have to mentally buy into the process and enjoy it,” says Caroline Andrew, a London bespoke specialist. “The journey is just as important as the finished product.” But ready-to-wear sets the time-strapped tailoring enthusiast down a different path: discovering new facets of your personal style at a record pace.

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Tom Brady Wears a Jacob & Co. Watch Decked in Yellow Sapphires to the Super Bowl

The $740,000 Caviar Tourbillon was an opulent choice for the former NFL star.

By 17/02/2025

Tom Brady was on the field tonight at the 59th annual Super Bowl game, and while the retired NFL hero—a seven-time Super Bowl winner (the most of any footballer in history)—wasn’t playing, he came dressed to impress with a $116,400 Jacob & Co. watch on his wrist.

Brady, who is a notable watch collector, recently sold off several of his timepieces at a Sotheby’s auction called “The GOAT Collection: Watches and Treasures from Tom Brady” this past December. Those timepieces ran the gamut from a Rolex Daytona Ref. 6241 to a unique Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with his name spelled out in diamonds across the salmon-colored tapisserie dial. His Rolex Daytona sold for over $1.5 million, and, in total, his auction raked in around $7 million. So, he’s well-equipped for a new watch purchase.

Whether or not he owns the six-figure sapphire stunner or it was a paid spot, the watch certainly stood out against his conservative but immaculately fit gray suit. “Tom Brady is the epitome of excellence, both on and off the field,” said Benjamin Arabov, CEO of Jacob & Co, in a press release sent out by the company shortly after Brady’s appearance. “We’re thrilled to see him wearing two of our most prestigious timepieces on the biggest stage in sports. The Billionaire Mini Ashoka and Caviar Tourbillon embody the precision, luxury, and innovation that define Jacob & Co. We’re honored to have him represent the artistry and craftsmanship behind every piece we create.”

Like much of Brady’s wrist candy, his 44 by 15.8 mm Caviar Tourbillon is not easy to come by. It is limited to just 18 pieces. It features hours, minutes, and a one-minute flying tourbillon in the JCAA43 movement with 216 components and 72 hours of power reserve. The movement itself is set with 338 brilliant-cut diamonds, while a total of 337 yellow sapphires adorn the case and dial. The clasp is decorated with another 18 baguette-cut yellow sapphires, and the crown comes with 14 baguette-cut yellow sapphires and one rose-cut yellow sapphire. As far as gem setting goes, this is one extraordinary piece, but it certainly seemed like a surprising choice for Brady, who was otherwise dressed like he just stepped out of a boardroom or a Ralph Lauren catalog.

Benjamin Arabov, son of Jacob & Co. founder Jacob Arabov, is now the CEO of the company. The 32-year-old recently took to Instagram to post that he was looking for a rebranding agency with experience in visual identity and packaging. As far as marketing goes, however, with Tom Brady, he’s golden.

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This Vintage Rolex Day-Date Has an Ultra-Rare and Coveted ‘Bark’ Design

The ultra-cool piece from Wind Vintage also comes in pristine condition with a desirable patina.

By Paige Reddinger 17/02/2025

Over the last four years there has been a resurgence in interest for 18-karat yellow gold watches. Much of that is due to fatigue over the long-running craze for steel tool watches, but it is also in part due to the rising value of gold (which shows no sign of slowing), rendering these once undesirable pieces increasingly worth collecting. Add to that the fact that, in some niche and stylish circles, unusual bracelet treatments, gem-setting, and interesting dials are becoming increasingly appealing and you have a new wave of watch collecting emerging. Steel sports watches are still the bread and butter for most dealers, but as pockets of interest in more unusual timekeepers, often from younger and fashion-forward collectors, continue to rise we’re seeing some really fun pieces pop up on the market. Case in point: This 1980s Rolex Day-Date in 18-karat yellow gold with a sapphire and diamond dial from Wind Vintage currently available exclusively on The Vault.

It wasn’t that long ago that dealers had a hard time unloading an all-gold gem-set piece. Eric Wind, the notable dealer and founder of Wind Vintage, says five years ago he would have sold this piece for around $23,000 to $28,000. The asking price today? $45,000. “It is very rare,” he tells Robb Report. “I think that was all clearly hand-done. Funnily enough, bark watches were not very desirable in the past. You know, even five to 10 years ago, they were very, very hard to sell. But, over the last three to five years, there’s been such an emergence and interest in jewellery and watches and work like that engraving and other kind of artistic forms that the watches took.” The style of engraving he is referring to on this watch can be seen on the bezel and middle links of the bracelet that is referred to as “bark” for its rough tree-like appearance.

“Bark” engraving on the bezel and bracelet of the Wind Vintage 1980s Rolex Day-Date
Courtesy of Wind Vintage

And while the bracelet is certainly a notable feature that will stand out in a sea of Submariners and Daytonas, the dial is also worth bragging about. Its diamond minutes track and sapphire hour markers are executed in what is known as a “string dial” because it looks like a string of pearls. “They’ve become very popular,” says Wind. “They were very expensive back in the 80s, just because of the cost of the stones, and there are just not many that exist on the planet.” Likewise, Wind says the canary yellow matte dial is not something he comes across often, having only seen a couple of others.

An up-close look at the patina and “bark” engraving on this 1980s Day-Date from Wind Vintage.
Courtesy of Wind Vintage

Part of what makes this watch so hard to find on the market is that pieces like this often didn’t survive past their ’80s heyday. “A lot of times these watches were so undesirable that dealers would replace the bezel inserts and put on fluted inserts, or smooth bezels or fluted bezels and melt down the bracelets or polish the center link so they looked like a standard Day-Date. Those dealers should have learned that what goes around, always comes around. Now with these interesting Rolex watches on the rise, they’ll become even harder to find.

A Wind Vintage 1980s Day-Date with “bark” engraving and a gem-set “string dial”
Courtesy of Wind Vintage

If you’re interested in the piece and want to speak to Wind about it IRL, he will be at Robb Report’s House of Robb event in San Francsico today during the NBA All-Star weekend.

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Soccer Star Kylian Mbappé Is Now an Investor in Watch Marketplace Wristcheck

Just like Jay-Z.
Published on February 7, 2025

By Abby Montanez 11/02/2025

Kylian Mbappé just went from brand ambassador to investor.

The celebrated French footballer, who currently plays for Real Madrid, has taken a stake in luxury watch trading platform Wristcheck, Hypebeast reported lat week.

Off the filed, the 26-year-old soccer star is a known timepiece collector and has served as an ambassador for Swiss marque Hublot since 2018. With this new partnership, the forward joins a growing group of influential backers, including Jay-Z. The rapper and business mogul took an equity stake in the Hong Kong-based company last summer as part of a recent funding round of $7.9 million.

“I’m thrilled to join Wristcheck as an investor through Coalition Capital,” Mbappé said in a press statement. “As a Hublot ambassador and someone passionate about watches and innovation, I see Wristcheck as a platform that truly understands the next generation of collectors. They’re reshaping the watch industry with a forward-thinking approach that blends technology, transparency, and creativity.” Mbappé did not immediately respond to Robb Report‘s request for comment on his new business endeavor.

Kylian Mbappé is an investor in online watch shop Wristcheck.
Tnani Badreddine/DeFodi Images via Getty Images

Launched in 2020 by renowned horophile and Instagram personality Austen Chu, Wristcheck offers a platform for collectors to buy and sell pre-owned watches that have been authenticated by Swiss-trained watchmakers. Since it was founded, the company has raised more than $21.6 million in funding from investors including the Alibaba Entrepreneurs Fund, Gobi Partners GBA, and K3 Ventures.

Mbappé, meanwhile, has achieved remarkable success in his soccer career. He won the 2018 FIFA World Cup with France, becoming the youngest player to score in a final since Pelé. At PSG, he has secured multiple Ligue 1 titles and domestic cups. Individually, Mbappé has earned the Ligue 1 Player of the Year award and regularly features in top European scoring charts. And in 2020, he was ranked the world’s highest-paid player, surpassing rivals Cristiano Ronaldo and Lionel Messi.

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Sotheby’s Will Put on the Largest Auction of Breguet Watches in Decades This Fall

To celebrate the revered watchmaking house’s 250th anniversary, the sale includes rare collectibles belonging to living Breguet family members.

By Paige Reddinger 11/02/2025

Interest in Breguet has experienced a quiet resurgence among savvy collectors who appreciate the brand’s deep-rooted watchmaking heritage. This growing enthusiasm will soon take center stage with an upcoming auction that shines a significant spotlight on the storied Maison.

Founded in Paris 250 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was one of the most influential watchmakers in history, best known for inventing the tourbillon and the automatic winding system—along with many other groundbreaking innovations. His legacy continues to inspire modern masters such as F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour. You can see Breguet’s influence pointedly in pieces like F.P. Journe’s famous Chronomètre à Résonance timepiece, voted one of Robb Report‘s 50 Greatest Watches of All Time.

Now, Sotheby’s has announced “the largest sale of Breguet timepieces in three decades.” Though the auction won’t take place until November, the auction house is already working to build anticipation. In the meantime, it might be wise to brush up on the most coveted Breguet references.

Breguet 1827 Perpétuelle à Tact watch made for King George IV Breguet

What may pique collectors’ interest is the sale is being curated in conjunction with Breguet and Emmanuel Breguet, the vice president and head of patrimony, who happens to be a descendant of the original Monsieur Breguet. So far, the only timekeeper publicly associated (at least visually) with the auction is the 1827 Perpétuelle à Tact watch made for King George IV. Still, it hints at the historic level of pocket watches, wristwatches, and clocks that will be on offer. Abraham-Louis Breguet was a frequent supplier of high-end and state-of-the-art timepieces for royalty, including Marie Antoinette, Napoleon Bonaparte, and King George III.

Other highlights include an open-faced montre à tact (a watch that replicates the internal hour hand on the cover of the pocket watch via an arrow so that time could be read via touch) with a calendar and moonphase indications that was the inspiration for the Ref. 3330. A pendulette with alarm, perpetual calendar and repeater, and a two-color gold open-faced tourbillon watch is said to be a part of the sale, although no images were provided as of press time. More info on what will be in the sale will come this spring.

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