The 4 Most Exciting Yacht Debuts From This Year’s Boating Shows

The standout vessels from this season’s top yachting events.

By Michael Verdon, Julia Zaltzman, Richard Alban, Howard Walker 13/12/2021

This year’s boat shows were the first after a year of virtual, Covid-impacted events. The pent-up demand among owners and new buyers was evident in the bustling crowds at Cannes and Fort Lauderdale. At Monaco, the number of attendees was lower than 2019, but organisers had set up the show for fewer crowds and more time to spend on the yachts.

After two years, the selection of new yachts was exceptional, from launches like the 70-metre Rossinavi Polaris to the 94-metre Feadship Viva at Monaco, to Wally’s new WHY200 and the 37-metre Benetti Motopanfilo at Cannes, to the world premieres at Fort Lauderdale such as the 77-metre Feadship Boardwalk, Sanlorenzo SL106A and 35-metre Ocean Alexander 35R.

Driven to Win: Victorious

Victorious Superyacht

Akyacht

The largest new yacht to ever come out of Turkey is an explorer billed for world circumnavigation that also includes the usual Jacuzzis, gym, steam room and cinema. But it’s the more unusual features on 85-metre Victorious, including the fire pits, “members club” and 12-metre catamaran tender, that made this yacht stand out among this year’s launches at Monaco.

Victorious began life in Northern Chile, in 2007, originally as a 77-metre build that was never completed. New Zealand businessman Graeme Hart eventually took on the project, shipping the yacht to Auckland before deciding two years later to build the even larger 107-metre Ulysses instead. The project then restarted in earnest in 2016, when it was rediscovered by serial yachtsman Vural Ak.

An automotive enthusiast with many classic and supercars in his private collection, Ak established Turkish shipyard Akyacht in order to complete the build, as well as other superyachts going forward. His previous boats include the 50-metre Dr No No by CRN and several performance vessels, including a 36-metre he still owns, so Ak knew precisely what he wanted. Delivered just ahead of the Monaco show, Victorious is a highly personalized yacht that’s also designed for the charter market.

Boasting an immense 2,291 gross tons of interior volume, the motor yacht includes 11 guest suites and designated family areas. Twenty-six feet were added to the stern for a swimming pool, while a kids’ playroom takes up significant real estate on the main deck. The commercial galley, rarely seen on a yacht of this size, is as unusual as the full-beam VIP stateroom.

UK-based H2 Yacht created the interior, filling what amounted to empty spaces throughout the yacht with the owner’s specific requests. White oak and teak are used with darker Macassar accents, silver travertine defines the corridors and stairways and Calacatta marble is used in other wet areas to maximum effect. Back-lit onyx has been implemented in several areas to enhance the design.

Victorious Superyacht

The Gentleman’s Club aboard the yacht. Akyacht

It’s impossible to miss the automotive references sprinkled throughout the interior. Each of the 11 cabins is named after a Formula 1 racetrack, for example, including the aft-facing owner’s suite on the upper deck, Intercity Istanbul Park—also owned by Ak—that features a Jacuzzi and private terrace. The other stateroom on the bridge deck is designated as a hospital room (a Covid-era necessity) with medical equipment and an independent ventilation system.

But the real treat is the club room on the sundeck, with a large wood fireplace flanked by a pair of giant mahogany-covered speakers, curved sofas, a humidor and a wine cellar. The sundeck’s aft dining table remains under cover, complete with heaters for colder climates. “The boat will be used in summer, but the sundeck is primed for winter—that makes it a year-round boat,” says Kivanç Nart, project manager at Akyacht.

Fourteen years in the making, Victorious’s debut on the yacht circuit is certainly worthy of its name. Julia Zaltzman

Ch-Ch-Changes: Benetti Motopanfilo 37M

Benetti Motopanfilo 37M

The new Motopanfilo is a modern interpretation of the 1960s Benetti classic, minus any retro clichés. Benetti Yachts

Benetti’s new 37-metre fibreglass Motopanfilo 37M premiered at the Cannes Yachting Festival before making its way across the Atlantic to the Fort Lauderdale show. The design brief for this modern interpretation of the 1960s classic motor yacht was clear: Get back to the roots of the “Panfilo” series, as American owners called it, and instil the Italian elegance then favoured by owners like Monaco’s Prince Rainier and David Bowie.

We toured the 2021 Motopanfilo at Cannes with Claudio Lazzarini, one half of the Rome-based Lazzarini Pickering Architetti, responsible for the interior design. “Benetti insisted this shouldn’t become a nostalgic exercise that just reproduced past concepts,” Lazzarini said. “Instead, we were tasked with reinventing the genre by breathing new life into old designs.”

The veteran architectural firm created a sense of airiness and volume typically found on larger yachts, with dominant elements including curved, bone-white beams that extend from the floor and across the ceilings. These are most prominent in the salon, where Lazzarini likened them to the ribs of a whale. When combined with mirrored surfaces and expansive windows, they evoke an instant connection to the sea.

The use of wood is one traditional motif that the designers put to unexpected use, cladding not only the floor in teak but the ceilings as well. The soft furnishings continue the subdued palette of materials and colors: The team offset Loro Piana fabrics, with names like Connemara and Papeete, in warm white Biancore tones against blue-and-malachite accents to conjure up a ’60s nautical sensibility. Alcoves in the walls between the ribs are shaped like portholes and display decorative artwork.

Benetti Motopanfilo 37M

The yacht’s luxurious interior. Benetti Yachts

The owner’s suite is situated on the main deck in front of the salon and the four guest staterooms are on the lower deck. On the upper deck is a smaller salon and pilothouse with an open skydeck; on the top level is the highly inventive observation deck, a glassed-in nook with a sunbed providing crow’s-nest views.

Even with its retro elementsFrancesco Struglias soft-lined exterior feels contemporary, with a vertical bow and slanted transom featuring a fold-down beach club with what the designer describes as a “clamshell silhouette,” a dramatic flourish of which David Bowie, we feel, would surely have approved. Richard Alban

 

Rule Breaker: Wally WHY200

Wally WHY200

Alberto Cocchi

At the dock, the Wally WHY200 looks like a soft, middle-aged version of the typically tight and angular Wallys. Yes, it has the same arrowhead shape, but as a longtime fan of the brand, I prepare for disappointment. But the moment I see the 25-foot-wide stern and huge cockpit, I understand: The 200WHY is a waterborne SUV, where the ride and experience, not exterior beauty, are the priorities.

Supersizing interior volume is a current trend among yacht builders, especially those trying to stay below the 24-metre hull load-line length. (In Europe, boats over that figure are designated as ships and must adhere to different regulations.) The WHY200 hull is just under the class divide, even though its superstructure is closer to 28-metres

But its biggest differentiator is volume. Even the name is a reference to volume—200 gross tons, or 2,150 square feet—rather than length, which is common. The exterior adds another 1,550 square feet, all optimised to enhance life on board. Essentially, it’s a 45-metre superyacht in a much smaller hull.

Features like the full-beam main suite in the bow, a central glass-enclosed staircase that serves as structural support and architectural detail and the gourmet kitchen (which includes induction hobs, oven, sinks, counters and a wine refrigerator) are among the notable breakthroughs. The interior by Wally founder Luca Bassani and A. Vallicelli & C. Yacht Design is simple and elegant instead of showy, dressed with teak floors with black inlays (matching the outer decks) as well as teak walls with ovangkol accents. The forward main suite shows some welcome rule-breaking—270 degrees of windows give panoramic sea views, including through the bow—as does the main deck cockpit’s unusually large protected area. It all adds up to a fresh experience of what a yacht can be.

Wally WHY200

The yacht’s master suite with a scenic view. Wally

Bassani, along with Laurent Giles Naval Architects Ltd., designed the high-riding hull for a notably dry ride: At a windy event in Monaco, the WHY200 was the only boat that left Port Hercules for open water, where seas were running four to six feet. “We wanted it to run smoothly in most conditions,” says Bassani. “This hull rises only two degrees as it accelerates, with minimal pitching in big seas.”

Four Volvo Penta D13-IPS drives, rated 900 hp each, deliver a top speed of 21 knots, while the upgraded 1000 hp IPS quads bump that up to 23 knots. The IPS configuration allows for more spacious crew quarters, while providing a choice of three or four staterooms on the lower deck. All in all, my favourite debut at Monaco. Michael Verdon

Fast Learner: Azimut Verve 42

Azimut Verve 42

The second in Azimut’s inventive dayboat series. Azimut Yachts

Azimut is on a roll. Last year’s launch of its Verve 47 created a new template for dayboat design, with a potent and finely tuned combination of high performance and high luxury. This year, at Fort Lauderdale, its Verve 42 immediately inherited our mantle of Coolest New Dayboat.

“This is a boat for lounging in the sun, swimming off the back,” says Federico Ferrante, president of Azimut-Benetti USA. And, he adds with a bit of understatement, “going fast.” Powered by a trio of 450 hp Mercury Racing V-8 outboards, the sleek 12.8-metre vessel tops out at 83km/h, with a stepped hull designed by Michael Peters, a Florida-based naval architect known for fast running surfaces. The patented “two-step” design channels air underneath, to add lift and reduce drag, while the hull’s architecture enhances stability at speed.

During a tour at the Fort Lauderdale show, the Verve was clearly the outlier among Azimut’s larger, more traditional motor yachts. But what an outlier: New owners had already ordered 14 boats by show’s end, with 25 production slots sold out for a year. Starting at $1.5 million, what sets this boat apart from the booming sports-weekender market is Francesco Struglia’s design. With its swept-back windshield, carbon superstructure and windows set into the amidships hull sides to allow the driver and passengers to watch the ocean rushing by, the Verve looks different from anything else on the water. Adding to the effect, its rear deck folds out to double the cockpit space.

There is no shortage of lounging areas across the topside, from the large, C-shaped bow sofa and tilting sun pad—made possible because there’s only a single side passage, which creates a nook up front—to the L-shaped sofa in the cockpit. Belowdecks, the weekender cabin has a double-bed aft, a convertible forward V-berth, a sizable galley and a head with separate shower.

Dayboats are currently enjoying a renaissance, but the Verve, powered by plenty of Mercury Racing vim, is a fresh and notably fast take on the traditional design. Howard Walker

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Everybody Loves Naomi 

Fashion fans adore her. And so do we. Lucky, then, that a new exhibition is paying homage to four decades of snake-hipped catwalking.

By Joseph Tenni 22/06/2024

Naomi Campbell contains multitudes. Since emerging on the scene in 1986, modelling for British designer Jasper Conran, the statuesque stunner has used the runway for takeoff. She has ventured into all aspects of the culture, from Vogue to Playboy and reality TV. In the business arena, she has dabbled in publishing and the two F&Bs (fragrance and beauty, and food and beverage). Her philanthropic efforts are legion.

Naomi is better known than any of her peers and, aged 54, remains more relevant than ever. As a testament to her pervading influence, a new exhibition, Naomi: In Fashion, is opening at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum. Celebrating her 40 years in the spotlight, the show includes clothes from the model’s closet and some of the designer fashion she has helped to immortalise.

We all know her snake-hipped walk, her glowing skin, her famous paramours, and—yes—her many tantrums and tiaras. But how much do we love her exactly? Let’s count some of the ways. 

1. She Was Born to Be Famous

Many people know Naomi for her appearances in music videos for Michael Jackson’s In the Closet and George Michael’s Freedom! ’90—the latter also featuring fellow supermodels Linda, Cindy and Christy. But Naomi has been in front of the camera since she was a child, and her prolific music-video career predates her modelling. At 8, she appeared in the official video for Bob Marley’s 1978 hit Is This Love. At 13, Culture Club cast her as a tap-dancing teen in I’ll Tumble 4 Ya. It would be another two years before she was discovered by model scout Beth Boldt, while shopping in London’s Covent Garden.

Courtesy Off-White. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

2. She Hits All the Right Notes

As anyone who has ever seen Unzipped, the 1995 cult fashion documentary by Douglas Keeve, Naomi always has a song in her heart. She put her mouth where her money was in 1994 and recorded an album, Babywoman. The cover art featured Naomi, photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth, shaving her legs while sitting on the toilet. Fittingly, the album was canned—despite assistance from contributors like Donna Summer and PM Dawn. 

3. She’s Always Ready for Her Close-Up
Hollywood’s history is full of models who went on to become successful actors. Naomi is not one of them. But not for want of trying. Her turn as a nightclub singer in Vanilla Ice’s 1991 movie Cool as Ice flies under the radar but doesn’t deserve to. Nor does her scene-stealing cameo as a French cheese shopper in The Night We Never Met, alongside Matthew Broderick and Jeanne Tripplehorn. Or her playing a sexy telephone operator in Spike Lee’s Girl 6. Who else has that kind of range? 

4. She Tells It Like It Is

We’d be remiss not to mention her 1994 novel Swan. A roman a clef about a young girl breaking into the modelling industry, flanked by her four besties who are also divas in training heels, it certainly played with genres. A murder-mystery-cum-sexy-romance-cum-vocational-advice page-turner, or something like that, this guilty pleasure was cruelly overlooked and relegated to the annals of bargain bins everywhere. 

5. She’s Got a Mind for Business

Naomi has been vocal over the years about making less money than her white peers and was not going to wait for the industry to catch up. Instead, she has ventured into businesses ranging from her former stake in the Fashion Cafe in New York to her signature fragrances, first released in 1999. What does Naomi smell like? Subtle yet complicated, consisting of top notes of peach, coconut and bergamot with a deep, woody base of cedar and sandalwood—apparently.

6. She Gives Until It Hurts

For a so-called narcissist, Naomi has often put her fame to philanthropic use. She has galvanised black models in fashion with the Black Girls Coalition and has raised money for Africa, Haiti and disaster relief worldwide, including after the Mumbai terrorist attacks. When she was dating the Russian billionaire and Aman Resorts owner Vladislav Doronin, she became committed to saving the tiger. Is there anything this overachiever can’t do?

7. She Can Make Hay From Anything

When she was sentenced to community service following allegations by a former employer that Naomi had attacked her with a mobile phone, the model emerged from her punishment dressed in couture and trailed by a photo crew who were shooting a fashion layout of her for W magazine. And when she was summoned in 2010 to appear in a war crimes trial against former Liberian president Charles Taylor—in relation to an uncut blood diamond he’d allegedly given her—our girl showed up in an Azzedine Alaïa twin-set and wearing a silver “evil eye” necklace, turning the courtroom into a photo opportunity.

8. She’ll Be on Your Side for Evermore
The fashion industry is hardly known for its loyalty or congeniality, but Naomi has maintained decades-long friendships with not only her supermodel sisters like Christy Turlington but also some of the most powerful and difficult players, including John Galliano and Marc Jacobs. That she has remained tight with so many of her friends is not lost on her adoring public. She must be a loyal person and in return, fans everywhere remain loyal to her.

Naomi: In Fashion runs from June 22, 2024, until April 16, 2025, at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London; vam.ac.uk

Courtesy Vivienne Westwood. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

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The Sapphire Dinner 2024 Raises Support for Ocean Conservation

This year’s boldfaced bash raised funds for our critically under-supported national treasures. 

By Horacio Silva 22/06/2024

The big fish of Sydney society came out Thursday night for the third annual Sapphire Dinner to raise much-needed money for ocean conservation. Held in conjunction with the Art Gallery of New South Wales, the boldfaced bash was the first sit-down dinner held at the Tank, a repurposed World War II fuel container that sits beneath the Art Gallery’s new wing. 

Set against a backdrop of immersive ocean-inspired video projections by South Korean digital creators d’strict, and with a dress code that inspired guests to recycle their most fabulous fashions, the zero-waste dinner supports The Sapphire Project’s mission to galvanise the community to take action to protect our oceans and the Great Barrier Reef.

Deep-pocketed VIPs who walked the evening’s blue carpet included  Malcolm and Lucy Turnbull, real estate maven Monika Tu, Penelope Seidler, Anna Marsden (Managing Director of Great Barrier Reef Foundation), Michael and Tina Brand, Andrew Cameron, MCA Chair Lorraine Tarabay, Myer boss Olivia Wirth, benefactors Paris Neilsen and Beau Neilson, and Paul Howes and Olivia Wirth, the power couple known as ‘Paulivia’. 

Retired swimmer Giaan Rooney MC’d the event, hosted by Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie and Ryan Gollan and committee members Ian Thorpe AM, Luke Hepworth, Clare Herschell, Susan Wynne, Brioney Prier, Bianca Rinehart, Doris Ma, Kate Champion, Ellie Aitken, and Chong Chua. 

A troupe of former Australian Ballet dancers and a musical performance by the Fijian-Australian singer and actress Paulini entertained the revellers.   

Among the auctioned items was an original work by Del Kathryn Barton, which raised more than $200,000 in a high-spirited bidding war led by Four Pillars Gin founder Stu Gregor, whose expletive-laden entreaties were suitably salty. 

Nobody minded, given that more than a million dollars were raised to support the criminally underfunded ocean conservation (it’s estimated that only about 2 percent of philanthropy in Australia goes towards the preservation of our precious national treasures), with funds going to support important initiatives such as The Great Barrier Reef Foundation, the University of Sydney’s One Tree Island Research Station, the Australian Museum’s Lizard Island Research Station, the Australian Sea Lion Recovery Foundation and Biopixel Oceans Foundation’s Project Hammerhead

The Sapphire Project Dinner 2024
Clare Herschell, Kate Champion, Bianca Rinehart & Hayley Baillie
The tablescapes at the Sapphire Project Dinner
Ian Thorpe
Adrian and Beck Buchan
Monika Tu
The Sapphire Project Dinnner 2024
Lucy & Malcolm Turnbull
Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie & Ryan Gollan

For further information, visit SapphireProject.com.au

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The 10 Best Omakase in Sydney

Sydney’s best Japanese chef’s-table dining experiences.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 06/06/2024

In Japan, where food is a cultural art form, omakase stands for traditional Japanese foods made with seasonal ingredients. A good omakase meal, prepared with purity and mindfulness, can make an unforgettable imprint on the culinary memory. Yet in a land defined by seasonal traditions, omakase is a relatively new concept.

Omakase originated in Japan in the 1970s as affluent Japanese began to dine more regularly at first-rate sushi counters. Bowing to the expertise of the sushi master, omakase loosely translates to “I’ll leave it to you.” In a setting where money is no object, letting the chef decide was designed as a chic way to take the awkwardness out of ordering.

In Australia where there’s an abundance of fresh seafood, omakase menus have experienced a recent rise in popularity. Today omakase is any series of small dishes served directly by the chef to the diner. Each part of the meal is presented on beautiful ceramics and lacquer wear, with a great —and somewhat— intimidating reverence for elegant details. It’s a chance to see a chef’s knife skills up close and get a feel for their cooking style.

Omakase menus are based on whatever is freshest at the market and can be influenced by the chef’s mood, expertise, and response to the guest. They can be slowly paced like a ceremony—hushed and reverential—but they can also be rowdy, humorous, and personal.
Here we give you 10 of the best to try in Sydney.

Yoshi’s Omakase at Nobu Crown Sydney

Crown Sydney, Level 2/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo. Open: 12–3 pm, 5:30–9:30 pm Phone: 02 8871 7188 Reservations: F&B-SYD-Nobu@crownresorts.com.au; $380 per head (including matched wine and sake). Crownsydney.com.au

Sushi Oe

16/450 Miller St, Cammeray; Tue – Sat. SMS only 0451 9709 84 E: jizakana16@gmail.com Phone: 0426 233 984 $230 per head. jizakana.com.au

Kisuke with Yusuke Morita

50 Llankelly Place, Potts Point; Tuesday – Saturday: 17:30 – 10.45 (closed Sunday/ Monday) $185-200 per head Kisukepottspoint.com

Haco 

102/21 Alberta St, Sydney. Lunch, Friday to Saturday 12 -2:00 pm Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday 5:45 pm – 8:1 5pm (closed Sunday & Mondays) P: 0408 866 285                                     E: haco@hacosydney.com.au; $150 – $210 Hacosydney.com.au

Kuon

Shop 04 2/58 Little Hay St, Sydney, Lunch: Fri-Sun 12:30 pm. Dinner  Tue-Sun 5:15 pm or 7:45 pm sittings.  Reservation via SMS at 0488 688 252; $220 per head @kuon.omakase

Sokyo 

The Darling, Level G, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont. Open dinner Monday to Thursday from 5:45 pm P: 1800 700 700 $300 per head Sokyo.com.au

Kuro

368 Kent St, Sydney; Open Tue – Wed – Thur: 6 pm Fri & Sat: 5:30 pm P: 02 9262 1580, reservations@kurosydney.com $220 per head. Kurosydney.com;

Choji Omakase

Level 2, 228 Victoria Ave, Chatswood —upstairs from Choji Yakiniku. Every Monday to Wednesday at 6.30 pm. One seating per day only. $295 per head. Chojiomakase.com.au

Gold Class Daruma

The Grace Hotel, Level 1/77 York St, Sydney; 12–2:30 pm, 5:30–9.00 pm Phone: (02) 9262 1190 M: 0424 553 611 booking@goldclassdaruma.com.au·$120 – $150 per head Goldclassdaruma.com.au

Besuto

Besuto Omakase, Sydney Place precinct, 3 Underwood Street, Circular Quay. Omakase is available to book for dinner – Tuesday to Saturday. 5:30 pm & 8pm sittings. From $250. Besuto.com.au

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is no soy and wasabi offered during my omakase meal?
Even though sushi and sashimi are being served, the chef is serving each piece of sushi so quickly and directly that the chef is applying the wasabi and soy to the sushi themselves. Watch as they brush the top of the fish with soy and dab a tiny amount of wasabi on the rice, under the fish. You should not need to add extra, and in fact, it can be insulting to the chef to add more. Bathing the bottom of the rice of your sushi in soy sauce is considered bad manners, as it is seen as detracting from the flavour of the fish.

Nobu, Sydney

Can an omakase experience accommodate my dietary needs?
Although there is often little variation once the chef has set the daily menu, some customisation is possible. Advise the restaurant when you book and remind them of allergies or aversions again as you sit down. They will let you know when you book if your allergy is possible for the chef. Japanese menus feature a lot of seafood and dashi so accommodating a no seafood request can be genuinely tricky.

What are the golden rules for chopstick etiquette?
Use your chopstick holder in between eating, rather than putting chopsticks on your plate. Don’t use your chopsticks to gesticulate or point; if offering food to someone to try, never pass food directly from your chopsticks to theirs. Rather place the food onto a small plate and let them pick it up.
Never touch communal or shared food with your chopsticks. The longer, slightly larger chopsticks are like sharing cutlery, never put these in your mouth.

Without a menu, how can I know what I am eating during omakase?
Omakase is often a no-menu situation, and you are expected to try new things. Attending an omakase experience with an open, trusting mind yields the best results.
There are Wagyu and tempura omakase that reflect the chef’s personal predilections and training, but in a standard luxury omakase, the format will include a lot of freshly caught seafood and will usually kick off with a delicate appetiser. This will be followed by a sashimi and sushi course, a savoury egg custard (chawanmushi) with meat and seafood, a cooked or blow-torched market fish, a soup course, and dessert.

Can I talk to the chef during omakase? What is the protocol?
Guests at an omakase experience are welcome to ask questions of the chef; in fact, interacting with the chef is part of the experience. It is considered polite to ask questions or inquire about the food so they can explain.

What is best to pair with omakase  in terms of drinks?
In general, wine and sake are a perfect match for omakase. Aged fish and vinegar have strong umami flavours so depending on which course you enjoy, different wine and sake will pair well. Dry chilled sake is a great choice. Amazing sakes are imported into Australia, so trust the restaurant to advise you and take you on a sake journey at the same time.  If you don’t like sake, drinking chardonnay, a crisp young riesling, or even a dry complex Riesling is also totally acceptable. All three styles help bring out the flavour of the fish. Champagne can also be good. Try a blanc de blancs— 100% chardonnay —for a great way to start the meal. As you progress, remember that sake is good for dishes with a strong taste, such as uni and eel.

Nobu, Sydney

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The Tod’s SS25 Men’s Collection in Milan Was a Showcase of “Artisanal Intelligence”

It was also the debut men’s collection by creative director Matteo Tamburini.

By Josh Bozin 20/06/2024

Earlier this week, Tod’s presented its SS25 men’s collection at the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea (PAC) for Milan Fashion Week, where all eyes were fixed on Matteo Tamburini and his debut menswear collection as Tod’s newest creative director.

Striking “a balance between tradition and modernity”, was the former Bottega Veneta designer’s intention, and indeed his showcase offerered a spotlight on the quality, materials, and detailing that are central to the Tod’s wardrobe.

“The collection is more about subtraction rather than addition, highlighting the very elevated, timeless and relaxed materials,” says Tamburini via a statement.

Tod’s

In line with Tod’s restrained design codes, the garments presented were characterised by timelessness, unmistakable Italian flair, yet a casualness appropriate for everyday wear. Only the best leathers were used in the collection—thanks to the Pashmy project, which Tod’s unveiled in January to champion high-end Italian materials—used in creating garments like the Tod’s Bomber, the Gio Jacket, the Shirt Jacket, the Di Bag sack, as well as footwear staples, like the Tod’s T-Riviera.

Of course, the iconic Gommino driving shoe wasn’t without an update, too: you’ll find a new sabot interpretation, as well as the Bubble Gommino introduced in a new boat model with the T-bar accessory.

“Craftsmanship” was at the forefront of messaging, with chairman and chief executive officer of the Tod’s Group, Diego Della Valle, reiterating the message of honouring artisanal arts in an increasingly digital-first world.”[It’s] important to uphold artisanal intelligence, keeping under control artificial intelligence as it is now developing rapidly and powerfully,” he said via a statement.

“Individuals and artisanal intelligence at the centre, with its traditions and values, will contribute to keep artificial intelligence in check. Our Italian craftsmanship and supply chain can be an example of the combination of tradition and the new speed of artificial intelligence.”

tods.com

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Pitti Uomo’s Best-Dressed Men Cut Through the Noise With Personal Style

From vintage gems to tasteful tailoring, attendees of Florence’s biannual tradeshow brought their best sartorial selves.

By Naomi Rougeau, Lorenzo Sodi 20/06/2024

Whether or not you’re well versed in the ins and outs of Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear tradeshow in Florence that brings together buyers, press—and, naturally, a vast ostentation of peacocks—the chances are that photos from the gathering are still making their way into your newsfeed. You might even smirk at the mention of it. To be sure, you’ll encounter plenty of “overdressing” strolling through the main venues but by and large, great personal style manages to cut through the noise.

Part of what makes the Pitti scene so exciting is that menswear moves relatively slowly. It’s less about seeing something earth shatteringly new but rather gradual shifts and discovering fresh ways to put things together. Menswear regulars such as Alessandro Squarzi, owner of a considerable vintage archive that influences his Milanese boutique Fortela, can be relied upon to provide inspiration on how to make tried and true staples and silhouettes feel modern.

Speaking of new old things, vintage fashions made their way into the chat in a big way this June, whether in terms of rare finds or sustainable efforts via upcycling, fabric development and natural dyes (Paris-based De Bonne Facture achieved an ideal medium brown using coffee, for instance). At the heart of the conversation was another bona fide vintage guru Maurizio Donadi who made a case for the timelessness and democratic nature of indigo with his centuries-spanning exhibit of antique garments from around the globe.

Below you’ll find a dozen of our favorite looks from Pitti Uomo 106, lensed by our eagle-eyed street-style photographer Lorenzo Sodi. We hope they inspire.

Lorenzo Sodi

A lesson in simplicity and the power of a classic palette—good quality vintage accents such as a turquoise embellished belt buckle add interest to timeless workwear. Ray-Ban’s universally-flattering Wayfarer sunglasses are the perfect finishing touch.

Lorenzo Sodi

Sans suit and shirt, the neckerchief (of which there were many at Pitti), adds a welcome dose of colour to a white tee and relaxed jacket and proves that sometimes one choice detail is all it takes. A well-loved, slightly-too-long belt and canvas Vans contribute to the casual harmony.

Lorenzo Sodi

Whatever the weather, you’ll find Douglas Cordeaux, from Fox Brothers, looking immaculate in shirt and tie… and a suit made of one of Fox’s many fabrics. British elegance, embodied.

Lorenzo Sodi

Relaxed elegance is the foundation of the Brunello Cuccinelli brand. Here, the maestro himself shows us how it’s done in a double-breasted linen ensemble featuring a few personal flourishes.

Lorenzo Sodi

Designer Alessandro Pirounis of Pirounis offers a masterclass on the rule of three with a contemporary twist, subbing the usual jacket with an overshirt of his own design.

Lorenzo Sodi

A renaissance man takes Florence. True to his roots, US Marine veteran, Savile Row-trained tailor and photographer Robert Spangle blazes a sartorial trail that’s all his own.

Lorenzo Sodi

Cream trousers are an essential element of elegant Italian summer style. Designer Nicola Radano of Spacca Neapolis channels one of the greats (Marcello Mastroianni) in a dark polo of his own design, collar spread wide across his jacket’s lapel for a welcome retro lean.

Lorenzo Sodi

Proof of the power of tonal dressing, that can create an impactful outfit just by sticking to the same colour family. A chic ensemble and in some ways an elevated version of the double-denim look, every element is working hard in service to the whole.

Lorenzo Sodi

UK-based stylist Tom Stubbs has long been a proponent of blousy pleats, lengthy db jackets, and statement-making neck scarves and here, in vintage Armani, he embodies the louche, oversize look that many designers are just now catching up on.

Lorenzo Sodi

A tailor splitting his time between Berlin and Cologne, Maximilian Mogg is known for his strong-shouldered, architectural suiting. Yet in Mogg’s hands, particularly with this non-traditional colour scheme, the effect is always modern and youthful.

Lorenzo Sodi

If Max Poglia’s relaxed Hawaiian shirt and suit combo is any indication, summer has truly arrived. But it’s an excellent example of how to wearing tailoring in more casual fashion. This cream db would look perfect with shirt and tie at a wedding in August and just as chic here with slippers and a laid-back shirt.

Lorenzo Sodi

Another example of how tailoring can be laid-back and breezy for summer, from a dude who looks no stranger to enjoying the best of the warmer months. Jaunty pocket square, sandals, untucked linen shirt…go forth and emulate.

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