
Green Pastures
A devotion to sustainability and local produce has made New Zealand’s
Sugarloaf restaurant the hottest—and tastiest—ticket in town.
In centuries past, the Craigieburn Valley on the South Island of New Zealand was a halfway point for the Maori people on their journey to collect pounamu from the west coast and a trading place where coastal tribes exchanged seafood with inland communities for forest products. It was a symbiotic tradition that continued both domestically and with European settlers after they arrived in the 19th century.
Flockhill Lodge, a luxury retreat set on a 14,569-hectare working sheep station, about an hour and a half’s drive or 20-minute helicopter ride from Christchurch, is once again a centre of cultural exchange. Opened three months ago, Flockhill’s restaurant Sugarloaf is already earning hosannas and winning the hearts and stomachs of international guests for its sublime take on modern New Zealand cuisine.
Named for a neighbouring mountain, and helmed by New Zealand-born, Europe-trained chef Taylor Cullen, Sugarloaf serves three meals a day and redefines eating locally. “We’re spoiled for choice here,” says Cullen, 32, adding that the bulk of the produce is grown on the property and the protein is sourced from nearby farms in the Canterbury Plains or spearfished about an hour away. “To be able to harvest from around here is a godsend—it really is a golden zone and makes my job easy because everything already tastes so good.”

Cullen, who was previously the head chef at Matt Moran’s vegetable-forward Sydney restaurant Chiswick, among other places, may sound humble but he is not exaggerating about the bounty at his disposal. The generous greenhouse and garden provide him with an embarrassment, for example, of lettuce, tomatoes, radishes, chillies, herbs, onions, and garlic—to say nothing of the ample native berries, capers and flower buds. Even the various honey and olive oils on offer are local. What is not served hours after harvesting is preserved.
Not surprisingly, about 60 percent of the menu—all cooked over fire—focuses on seasonal vegetables. “People like their meat and three veg, and they’re kind of used to having protein-heavy meals,” he says. “But the feedback we get from serving so much fresh vibrant produce has been crazy.”

It’s not hard to see why. Even a small side dish of carrots is anything but routine. They’re cooked above the grill, where they are left slowly smoking all day, after being doused with a little bit of fennel and gooseberry juice and a smidgen of vinegar, until they are sticky and charred on the outside. Cut into it them, though (after they have been tossed in fermented garlic and honey), and they reveal an almost supernatural deep-orange colour and a robust yet delicate flavour.
The same considered approach is applied to proteins. A recent dinner included a snapper starter served on a dainty crumpet, the meat gently pulled off the bone with a spoon after filleting, then mixed with a bit of clarified gooseberry juice, salted fermented fennel before being drizzled with olive oil and burnt hay oil, and bottarga cream made from the roe of a previous bunch of snappers.
Kingfish was prepared with horseradish and magnolia, and succulent lamb from the property arrived with Maori potato and macadamia. Desserts included manuka, citrus, and pine; chocolate, sesame and kawakawa, a native plant with edible berries; and a criminally good pavlova, native berry and almond.

The design and fit-out of the place are similarly elevated. Just as the four suites at the lodge and the seven two-bedroom villas at this escape feature mainly locally sourced furniture, textiles and lighting, the restaurant speaks in a thick New Zealand accent. The design by Ashton Wright and his team at Hierarchy Group is an exercise in rustic splendour, instantly revealing itself as a site-appropriate barn-like structure but the ultimate in refinement. The richly textured room made from three types of endemic wood features five oversized dining room tables, booth seating, a communal table in front of the fireplace, a separate bar, a special chef’s table. Despite the imposing dimensions, there are still plenty of discrete spaces for intimate interactions as witnessed by the number of guests who use the restaurant as a hangout space to read or play chess or have whiskey tastings.
Tableware is made in collaboration with local artisans, including ceramicist Renate Galetzka, who uses clay from the property and plants from the garden to press into plates. All the blacksmithing in the place—from the impressive smoker to the fire tools and butcher’s hooks—is made by a steelmaking concern from Christchurch called Flaxton Iron.
As much as he is an unabashed booster of his home nation, Cullen wants to eventually open up his labour of love—four years in the making—to marquee international chefs for pop-ups. “With that comes camaraderie and bouncing ideas,” he says. “That cultural exchange is what it’s all about.”
Sugarloaf is only open to guests of Flockhill Lodge. For rates and more information, go to flockhillnz.com.
Robb Report flew business class to New Zealand, courtesy of Emirates, which flies from Sydney to Christchurch once a day. For fares, go to emirates.com
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