Culinary Masters Winners

We eagerly plate-up nine positives to come from a chaotic year in hospitality – introducing the impressive class of 2021.

By Robb Report Staff 10/01/2022

What a year. After the most challenging 12 months in hospitality in living memory, Australian hospitality has – somehow – produced a bumper crop of alluring new places to eat.

The class of 2021 would be impressive in a regular year, but in the face of the havoc wrought by the pandemic, their achievements are even more remarkable.

Whether it’s veterans rolling the dice on another round or young guns sharpening their focus, whether paying homage to the Francophile classics (if not with the odd cheeky antipodean twist) or forging new ground with less familiar plays of flavour, the talent is running hot.

In acknowledging this heady collection of talent, we’ve made changes to the distribution of the coveted Culinary Masters crowns. No longer the reserve of just young chefs making inroads the past 12 months, we’ve expanded to include all behind the burners (whether new or established), extending further to the overseers and restaurateurs serving up exciting new ventures and without whom so many wielding the knives wouldn’t have an opportunity to flourish.

And so, introducing the Robb Report Culinary Masters of 2021…

Khanh Nguyen, chef, Aru and Sunda, Melbourne

Khanh Ngyuen. Credit: Kristoffer Paulsen.

Rare is the chef who has done a better job than Khanh Nguyen of diagramming the through-line from ingredients native to Australia to the food traditions of our nearest neighbours up in Southeast Asia. Fewer still have made that lesson taste so damn good. To eat his food at Sunda, or at Aru, the new fire-focused spin-off he opened in 2021, is to slap your forehead over and over – of course these flavours work together; this is all the same part of the world! – before diving back in for more. And the flavours we’re talking about are not small. Pepperberry and betel leaf frame grilled wagyu tongue in a nod to the bo la lot of Nguyen’s Vietnamese heritage, while a flurry of sweet spanner-crab meat and white kampot pepper make a luxury of fried rice. Desserts are no less lavish – pandan perfuming a roast-potato cream caramel, say, or coconut and cultured cream conspiring to take passionfruit pavlova in a bold new direction – and cocktails driven by that same more-is-more approach make for a meal that comes out swinging, whatever the occasion.

aru.net.au 

 

Luke Burgess, chef/restaurateur, Seven and a Half, Hobart

Seven and a Half chef, Luke Burgess.

It wouldn’t be quite right to say Luke Burgess rebooted the Tasmanian restaurant scene on his own. But if you were looking for an individual who you could credit with transforming Hobart from a place of only passing interest to the destination diner into, well, a dining destination, he’d be right at the top of your list. Garagistes, the fine-dining restaurant Burgess ran to international acclaim from 2010 to 2015, raised the stakes for ambitious, locavore cuisine in Tasmania, and his brand-new project, Seven and a Half, has changed the game again. Perched in a jewel-box of a room on top of a tower in downtown Hobart, it offers rarefied omakase-style dining for just 10 diners at a time, once a week. Burgess works without a menu and without a parachute, just he and the guests and some excellent handpicked wine and sake. The intimacy of the setting gives him the freedom to tweak the menu as he goes and to showcase superb niche produce you’re not likely to see anywhere else.

Wild venison might appear as salami in an array of snacks alongside sashimi of banded morwong and a ‘sando’ of salted radish at one sitting, for instance; asparagus teamed with an ajo blanco made of hempseed and goat’s ricotta and with lovage and a sauce of nori and walnut the following week; a pecorino flavoured with native pepper makes the surprising accent for egg noodles with venus clams. There’s nothing quite like it, on or off the island, and it’s easy to see why it’s one of the most sought-after tables in town.

lukeburgess.com.au

Rosheen Kaul, chef, Etta, Melbourne

Etta chef Rosheen Kaul.

Blame it on the pork rib. Sure, when Rosheen Kaul landed at Etta she had plenty of other good things on her menu – the crunchy, spicy little pop-in-the-mouth fried school prawns with curry leaves, for one thing. But the pork rib, a foot-long hunk of a thing served on the bone, its smoky, succulent heft balanced by an oyster cream and pickled baby turnips – well, this was a statement of intent. It said ‘here is a chef who likes to cook with fire, who is clear-eyed enough to take inspiration from a dish like Korea’s bo ssäm, and remix it, riffing on that dish’s traditional accompaniments of kimchi and freshly shucked oysters, while making it completely her own’. It also said, ‘this person can really, really cook – this is ridiculously tasty’.

In landing on her feet at this hip, smartly appointed east Brunswick wine bar, Kaul has given diners the gift of a one-plus-one-equals-three situation. Owner Hannah Green keeps an enviable cellar and sets a lively, welcoming tone on the floor, and together with Kaul’s surfeit of bright, clever ideas in the kitchen, you’ve got a package that’s so much greater than the sum of its (formidable) parts.

ettadining.com.au

 

Chris Lucas, restaurateur, Society, Melbourne

Restaurateur Chris Lucas.

The road to Society for Chris Lucas has been long, hard and paved with serious investment. But to see the room thronged with the good and the great of Australia, some serious table-hopping and people-watching playing out at the booths under the vast, glinting chandeliers, it must feel like the years of heartache, and the last-minute curveball of a parting of ways with Martin Benn, the former Sepia chef enlisted to open the restaurant, have all been worth it.

Take a look around Society’s elegantly muted Collins Street dining room and you’ll see diners laying down substantial cash for a wine list that goes long on Romanée-Conti and other five-figure bottles, diving deep into a cocktail bar rich in vintage offerings (hello $125 Martini made with 1950s spirits) and of course plunging into the menu with a fervour sharpened like never before by lockdown. And what does all that outlay get the happy guest? Plates that combine a tightly edited, almost Midcentury Modern aesthetic, sharpened with the occasional Japanese accent. Raw tuna has seldom been more melting than here, wrapped in buttery ribbons of jamón Ibérico, while crème fraîche shot through with wasabi, a plate of Japanese-style pickled cucumbers, and a shio koji jus accompany the epic smoked wagyu prime rib. Heady stuff. Culinary Masters might historically have been all about chefs, but in Society today we find the triumph of the vision of the restaurateur.

societyrestaurant.com

 

 

Nik Hill, chef/restaurateur, Porcine, Sydney

Nik Hill (left) and Harry Levy (right).

Speaking of Sepia, Nik Hill certainly can’t be said to be following blindly in the footsteps of his alma mater. After he left the Sydney fine diner, he got into smoking eels, then did a turn cooking pub food at Woolloomooloo landmark The Old Fitzroy, then swerved again with Anglo-Italian food at The Milan Cricket Club pop-up before settling at Porcine. You might struggle to find intimations of Sepia or anything Anglo-Italian in Hill’s menu, but his smoked eel appears right at the top – albeit in the form of a smoked-eel vinegar accompanying rock oysters.

A bistro above a bottle-shop, Porcine is as lusty as the name would suggest, channelling the gutsier side of the French culinary canon. Grilled ox tongue will appear one night au poivre-style in a glossy pepper sauce, and on another cooked en croûte, swaddled in pastry and foie gras. As rich as it all sounds, Hill has the palate and the technical finesse to keep it all in balance – and there’s always another dip into the exceptional drinks list if the occasion demands a corrective.

porcine.com.au

 

 

Ben Russell, chef/restaurateur, Rothwell’s, Brisbane

Ben Russell, chef Rothwell’s.

Who better to lead the bistro renaissance for the Brisbane CBD than Ben Russell? Having cut his teeth as a young chef in the 1990s at Est Est Est, the famously tough Melbourne restaurant known for producing some of the greatest kitchen talent of a generation, he did the obligatory stint in Europe before returning to Australia to become one of Matt Moran’s most trusted lieutenants. Russell moved to Queensland to open the Brisbane outpost of Moran’s Aria flagship, and after a stellar run at the top echelon of the city’s finer dining, he’s back with a bang at Rothwell’s.

Inside the Rothwell’s dining room.

Opened with Dan Clark, of the celebrated Addley Clark Fine Wines import company and 1889 Enoteca, the restaurant is the kind of meeting of kitchen talent, a building with great bones and a backer with a frankly exceptional wine cellar that big-city diners dream of. Is Rothwell’s going to stake the sort of claim on the big end of town that Rockpool Bar & Grill holds in Sydney? With Russell plating up perfectly polished renditions of steak tartare, prawn cocktail and a seafood platter worth pushing the boat out for, the indications are positive. And if the offering from the grill – a full chorus of big, juicy rib-eyes and T-bones complemented by onion rings, watercress salad and a full battery of condiments – doesn’t get you reaching happily for the Barolo section of the wine list, the beef Wellington, resplendent in a golden jacket of fine pastry and served to share, will definitely get you over the line.

rothwellsbrisbane.com.au

 

Daniel Pepperell and Michael Clift, chefs/restaurateurs, Bistrot 916, Sydney

Michael Clift (left), Daniel Pepperell (centre) and Andy Tyson (right) by Jason Loucas

Daniel Pepperell is the master of the knowing twist. You wouldn’t call him a deconstructionist – not for Pepperell the blobs, foams and smears. No, his signature move is more a savvy spin. The dish he plays with will remain recognisable, true to its roots, yet the flick Pepperell (and now his friend and chef-at-arms Michael Clift) gives a given classic as it leaves his pass makes it distinctively, recognisably his own. At 10 William Street he enriched his Bolognese with a swig of fish sauce, and daubed caviar on his carpaccio. At Restaurant Hubert he plated his escargots with XO sauce butter and laid a shimmering maple-syrup jelly over his satin duck liver parfait. And now, here at Bistrot 916, the venue he opened with Clift and sommelier savant Andy Tyson, that same joie de vivre remains at the fore. There’s a zesty, give-the-people-what they want spirit here that’s entirely fitting for the bistro genre and for the raffish Potts Point setting. Among the main courses Clift and Pepperell offer not just a classically crowd-pleasing steak frites – there’s also a duck frites, a mushroom frites and, for the truly OTT option, a market-priced lobster frites to boot. It’s exuberant, it’s packed with flavour, and it’s a lot of fun.

bistrot916.com

 

Blaze Young, chef, Nieuw Ruin, Perth

‘Good food. Good cocktails. Weird wine.’ Nieuw Ruin’s name might seem a bit curly on first glance, but the mission statement is very straightforward. And while the wine part of the equation will elicit different reactions depending on which side of the minimal-intervention fence you stand, Blaze Young’s brief is to the point and a delight to all. She fashions garfish into rollmops, serves her crudités with French onion dip and curries her fries. Her gift for handling offal has brought many a formerly hesitant diner into the fold, not least for her Wagin duck livers, which she serves on toast, tossed in a cream sauce spiked with a dose of hot mustard that judiciously cuts the livers’ intensity. Best of all, her food is wine-friendly, even the spicy stuff, from the oysters and mignonette (just made for a lush Fanny Sabré aligoté) to the Torbray asparagus and zucchini with goat’s curd (the perfect alibi for a bottle of Sebastien Riffault Sancerre). Here’s a young chef very much on the up – and you’ll want to be there for the ride.

nruin.com

 

Clare Smyth, chef/restaurateur OnCore, Sydney

Michelin starred chef, Clare Smyth.

How do you follow up a career that takes in experience under Alain Ducasse and Gordon Ramsay at their respective peaks, that has earned an MBE, and the first and only three-star rating from Michelin for a restaurant run by a woman in the UK, not to mention being named The World’s Best Female Chef by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants? If you’re Clare Smyth, your encore is OnCore, planting the flag in Sydney with a sister restaurant to London’s Core.

What sets Smyth apart from the rest of the Franglais fine-dining pack? There’s the clever, playful weave of British classics and Australian ingredients, for one. Playful, that is, but underpinned by serious craft. Fans will be thrilled to learn that ‘potato and roe’ has made the journey with her. The Core signature dish pays homage to Smyth’s Northern Irish roots with a potato cooked long and slow to a perfectly luscious texture before being topped with roes of herring and trout. Not for nothing did Bloomberg call it “the world’s best potato”. The plush room commands views across the harbour to the horizon, and while the ‘casino’ setting might put cynics in mind of a cash-grab from a chef domiciled on the other side of the world, dishes this flavoursome and elegant can only be executed by a team with total commitment. It’s the real deal.

crownsydney.com.au

Join us for an exclusive evening of fine dining at Society Melbourne – a Robb Report Culinary Master for 2021. To secure your ticket, book now via the Robb Report Shop.

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Forever Young

You’re born, you live, you get old—right? Well, not according to a growing legion of death-dodgers who are prepared to pay any price to reverse the ageing process.

By Alison Boleyn 13/09/2024

It is, by any estimation, a meeting of strange bedfellows. Gathered here tonight, at the table of a centi-millionaire venture capitalist living in Venice, California, are Kim and Khloé Kardashian, Kris Jenner and the manfluencer-neuroscientist Andrew Huberman. And the reason this hybrid crew has assembled? Part evangelism, part investment drive, and mostly about discussing how to never, ever die.

The menu that evening—black lentils over drifts of veg with berry-strewn nut pudding—nodded to what the head of the table eats every single day, albeit in separate sittings and all before 11.00 am. Bryan Johnson, who sold Braintree Venmo to PayPal for US$800 million (around $1.2 billion) in 2013, now devotes his life and fortune to winding back his biological age. What he calls his “Don’t Die Dinners” manifest a trend in health and wellbeing where the vision of living to 120, 150 and beyond, has moved from anti-ageing scientists, elite athletes and tech eccentrics to a whole new level of celebrity.

“The two futurist topics everyone is obsessed with right now are artificial intelligence and living forever,” says neuroscientist and futurist Joel Pearson. “Interest in longevity has exploded over the last eight months and that’s because of Bryan Johnson’s Don’t Die campaign.”

Jeff Bezos attends The 2024 Met Gala Celebrating “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion” at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes/MG24/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue)

In March, when doctors injected 300 million young Swedish bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) into Johnson’s knees, hips and shoulders, it was in a clinic in the Bahamian resort owned by Justin Timberlake and Tiger Woods. The 47-year-old—that’s in chronological years; his heart has the biological age of 37—consumes 32 kg of vegetables monthly and more than 100 pills a day, hits bed strictly at 8.30 pm and will repeat the MSC therapy next year so his joints match his already youthful bone mineral density. Other biomarkers show he has the cardiovascular fitness, muscle mass and nighttime erections of a fit 18-year-old. Johnson’s waking hours are devoted to a regimen of therapies and exercises continually recalibrated by a team of more than 30 doctors, with one goal: to slow down the ageing process. Or as Johnson is fond of saying: “Is death no longer inevitable?”

One of Johnson’s July dinner guests, the charismatic Stanford neuroscientist Andrew Huberman, has helped propel this notion of extreme longevity. Huberman Lab is Apple Podcasts’ most popular health and fitness show, and the 16th most popular podcast across all categories. His self-optimisation ethos appeals to the acolytes of the show’s manly backer, former UFC fighter Joe Rogan.

Andrew Huberman Ph.D., is a neuroscientist and tenured professor in the Department of Neurobiology and by courtesy, Psychiatry and Behavioral Sciences at at Stanford School of Medicine.

“It’s that bro science,” says Pearson, who heads the Future Minds Lab at UNSW and himself adheres to a routine of saunas, kava and red-light therapy to improve sleep. “It’s the young guys in the gym with the ice baths and the hormones and the hunting.” (Because testosterone declines in men starting from their 30s, attempting to boost the hormone through abstinence has become an ideology of a particularly butch patch of anti-agers; getting good-quality protein by shooting your own is another.)

DJ Steve Aoki (46, but biologically 33) has equipped his Las Vegas home with ice plunge tubs, saunas, pulsed electromagnetic field mats, a hyperbaric oxygen chamber and a tea bar . He has “I’ll sleep when I’m dead” tattooed across his neck and says he’s signed up for “the full-body freeze”—the cryopreservation of his body for future revival.

While US-based futurist Dr Divya Chander says this euphoria around stretching longevity has not extended to women—“I think they still feel limited by their biology”—Hailey Bieber has shown that the gender divide might be shifting. On an episode of The Kardashians, the 27-year-old model (biological age unknown) underwent an intravenous infusion of NAD with her friend Kendall Jenner. NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) is a compound in the body that supports cellular process. “I’m going to NAD for the rest of my life and I’m never going to age,” Bieber said on the show. She was visibly joking yet Jennifer Aniston, 55, told the Wall Street Journal last year that she’s also used NAD+ IV drips, and Kourtney Kardashian, 45, calls her liquid form of NAD “the genetic key to longevity”.

LHailey Bieber is seen on March 02, 2022 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Bellocqimages/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)

The Sydney-based founders of UAre, an app designed to increase longevity, say that in the early years of testing, men and women responded differently to the product. “The conversation with men was more about winning,” says co-founder Marc Pasques. “‘I extended my lifespan by a year by doing more exercise’, or ‘I extended it by two’. Women talked about hanging out with grandkids.” But he goes on to admit that gap in motivation is closing.

Are has just opened a $1 million seed round and forecasts $10 million in revenue in 2025 and $30 million in 2026. There’s money to be made in extending youth, if not eternal life. Bryan Johnson sells Blueprint basics for US$333 (around $495) a month. The Harvard biologist and author of Lifespan: Why We Age—and Why We Don’t Have To, David Sinclair (chronologically 55; biologically 42), who controversially advocates for resveratrol—a plant compound found in red wine and grapes—as an anti-aging drug and who says there are no limits to how long we can live, has co-patented a skincare line with Caudalie.

Professional services giant PwC argues that the oft-used estimate of the global market value of longevity therapeutics at around $65 billion by 2030 does not take into account the potential for these to replace conventional therapeutics in healthcare. Australia’s first medical facility to offer personalised longevity programs, Longevity Medicine Institute, opened in Sydney’s Double Bay in July. “People are coordinating their aesthetic care with longevity doctors,” says New York-based celebrity cosmetic dermatologist Dr Paul Jarrod Frank, whose clients include Madonna. “They’re using supplements like NAD, newer peptides and various manipulative efforts to try and look younger and live longer.” 

Similarly Don Saladino, the personal trainer who’s shaped up Hugh Jackman and Jake Gyllenhaal, emphasises age-extending practices in his star clients’ programs as strongly as any aesthetic goals. As Ryan Reynolds readied himself to assume a “tight-as-hell” costume for this year’s Marvel movie Deadpool & Wolverine, Saladino coached the 47-year-old through better sleep practices, walking and increasing dietary fibre. He reframes strength training as not just body-sculpting but as creating “body armour” for later life, to prevent the falls so catastrophic for the elderly.

 Ryan Reynolds attends the 2022 People’s Choice Awards at Barker Hangar on December 06, 2022 in Santa Monica, California. (Photo by Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic)

And Chris Hemsworth, who plays another Marvel superhero Thor, included efforts to stave off the onset of dementia through meditation and exercise alongside Arctic ice plunges in his bid to increase longevity in the TV series Limitless.

Australian actor Chris Hemsworth in the McLaren garage during the F1 Grand Prix of Abu Dhabi at Yas Marina Circuit on November 26, 2023 in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by Kym Illman/Getty Images)

The man who was Australia’s deputy chief medical officer during the Covid-19 pandemic questions the lure of many supplements and longevity interventions. As host of the 9Network’s Do you Want To Live Forever seriesDr Nick Coatsworth visits Okinawa, a “blue zone” where an astonishing number of inhabitants live past 100 in good health. There he watches some local elderly dance to hip-hop. “All that biohacking people do, it’s just a waste of time,” he says. “To live longer, you have to spend time with good friends, keep moving and have a good diet.”

Joel Pearson, who stopped taking resveratrol and NMN supplements years ago after research showed mixed results, agrees.If there’s compelling evidence showing frequent sauna users can get a 40 per cent drop in all-cause mortality, then why would you spend time worrying about a molecule that has very small effect?”

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Only The Good Die Young

In a future of floating
billionaire summits,
do we really want to
live forever?

By Horacio Silva 13/09/2024

Two thousand tech moguls, shamans, CEOs and DJs packed together on a cruise ship for what organisers call “invitation only, one of a kind experiences where super humans make magic”. What could go wrong? That’s the pitch for Summit at Sea, an event billed as a “floating Davos” for millennial technocrats, staged in international waters off Miami. But even if the marketing lingo sometimes threatens to sink under its own weight (“Wherever your gravitational force takes you, our constellation offers wonder”), Summit at Sea captures something about the zeitgeist of what billionaires are looking for now.

They want woo-woo; they want to microdose mushrooms, ketamine and LSD (as championed by the likes of Sergey Brin and Elon Musk), and they most certainly don’t want to die. This issue is about those issues. Jeff Bezos, Mark Zuckerberg and Peter Thiel are among the squillionaires bankrolling longevity initiatives— presumably to live long enough to be able to spend all their money. But as Alison Boleyn reports in her first story for Robb Report, even those outre efforts—Thiel is said to receive blood transfusions from people under 25—pale when compared to Bryan Johnson, who reportedly spends $2 million a year on anti- ageing methods. For those of us who can’t afford eternal life, however, the good news is the world is still full of earthly delights.

Take the healthful effects of the Greek island of Tinos or driving the new Rolls-Royce around Ibiza, for example. We also check into an integrated wellness clinic in Thailand and a luxury resort in Spain that focuses on gut health—miso soup and a side of algae, anyone?—and luxuriate in Guerlain’s stunning new day spa outside of Athens. And we spend time with Rory Warnock, a breathwork practitioner and ultra-marathon runner whose tips for curing anxiety and promoting wellbeing are being sought by everyone from CEOs and Olympians to companies like Google and Bupa. And like us, he’s also partial to a well-made negroni. Oh, waiter? Maybe we’ll let the ship sail without us.

Robb Report ANZ’s Issue #37 is now on sale. Pick up your copy of our September issue, to discover Spring cleaning for the mind, body and wardrobe.

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Breathing New Life

Ancient cultures have used it for thousands of years to cure anxiety and promote wellbeing; now everyone from CEOs to Olympians are discovering the health benefits of breathwork.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 13/09/2024

Rory Warnock is not your typical new-age guy. When we meet him, he’s sipping a negroni overlooking the ocean at Casa Amor in Saint-Tropez, dressed in an open-neck shirt, expensive sunglasses and a jaunty Hermès silk scarf tied around his neck; no kombucha teas or healing-crystal necklaces here. His relaxed posture is a far cry from 10 days ago when he was preparing to run a 200 km marathon through the Tian Shan mountain range in remotest Kyrgyzstan. “I carried everything I’d need for six days in the mountains. My pack weighed 10.8 kg on day one, excluding water. And I surprisingly ended up coming third,” he says. 

According to Warnock, this staggering feat of endurance was mainly down to one thing: breathwork.

Proclaimed as an all-natural wonder drug by an ever-growing chorus of scientists, doctors and fitness enthusiasts, breathwork describes the act of inhaling and exhaling in a way that brings an overwhelming, sometimes euphoric, sense of calm and balance to your body. Though it dates back thousands of years—evidence has been found to suggest the practice was adpoted in ancient India, and shamanic cultures in South America, Africa and Australia—modern-day breathwork broadly falls into two different categories.

The first is the mindful breathing that forms an essential part of yoga and meditation: alternate nostril breathing, or box breathing, are taught as simple physiological tools to downregulate the nervous system and move the brain from fight or flight mode. It’s believed these simple methods re-tune brain chemistry, by reducing the amount of noradrenaline to the organ—akin to popping Valium or taking a perfectly safe mini-tranquiliser.

The second is holotropic breathing, which is deep, transformative breathwork. Devotees says it’s more like taking a mushroom trip. Pioneered by Dr Stanislav Grof in the ’70s, it invloves laying on your back in the dark and following a sequence of breathing patterns as you’re guided by a trained facilitator—and is often set to music. It’s claimed that this more intensive work can yield powerful results by connecting to the subconscious, releasing accumulated trauma and accessing inner wisdom.

Nine years ago, Scottish-born Warnock took a risk. He traded working for a successful packaged goods company in London for a career as a breathwork coach in Sydney—long before his passion was an internet buzzword. The move, however, was not necessarily driven by financial motives. “I was diagnosed with anxiety and depression at a pretty young age, like 21 or 22 years,” he says, taking another sip of his negroni. “I was pretty much crying myself to sleep for about three years and I didn’t really understand what was going on.”

Dissatisfied with being prescribed “a little white pill” by his doctor and given a “pat on the back”, Warnock began to look for new ways to heal his condition. “I tried to do everything I could to improve myself in a more holistic way and so I got into running,” he says. “I changed my lifestyle.” 

And more significantly, he discovered breathwork, giving him a new mission in life. “When I first heard about it, I thought ‘breathwork’, that sounds a bit ridiculous. Someone is going to tell me how to breathe in a certain way and it is going to change how I think and feel and ultimately perform day-to-day? But I went along to one session and that one hour changed the direction of my whole life. I was hooked on the feeling. I was hooked on the immediate effects, hooked on feeling joyful, happy, strong, empowered.”

In person, Rory’s enthusiasm is infectious, but his testimonials are, increasingly, backed up by science. A 2014 study by the Stanford Research Unit found breathing exercises to be effective for treating PTSD in combat veterans; and by 2016, US Navy seals started using breathwork to achieve calm and focus before battle. British neuroscientist Professor Ian Robertson calls it the “the most precise pharmaceutical you could ever give yourself, side-effect free”, while some researchers claim breathing exercises are an effective, low-cost treatment for PTSD, bi-polar, insomnia, and can even help combat grief. 

The general public are buying into the movement, too; according to a report by the Global Wellness Institute, breathwork has experienced a 400 percent uptick in popularity since 2019. And, unsurprisingly, billionaire technology titans, who are always looking for the next big health panacea, are buying in. “It’s all very steeped in Silicon Valley tech culture,” said Jag Gill, a New York-based banker turned tech CEO in a recent interview with The Washington Post. 

Dr Smita Dsilva is an ayurvedic doctor (ayurveda being an ancient Indian alternative medicine) at the RAKxa Integrative Wellness in Bangkok, Thailand, a clinic that received celebrity patronage in July when supermodel  Kate Moss passed through. “Breathing exercises have been used for centuries as a powerful tool to manage stress and anxiety, increase focus, and improve overall wellbeing. In the high-pressure business world, this is a simple yet effective practice, she says. “Giving attention to the breath promotes the purification of both the mind and body, while also raising the energy. It also frees the mind from unnecessary thoughts that promote anxiety… regular practice can release up to 80 percent of the body’s toxins through the breath.”

And breathwork is not just an elixir for various negative mood states. According to Dsilva, the practise can also help with aesthetic issues: “Kapalbhati pranayama is a specific breathing technique in yoga that involves forceful exhalations and passive inhalations, engaging the abdominal muscles throughout the practice. The vigorous breathing and abdominal contractions help reduce bloating and support the removal of toxins, potentially leading to reduced belly bloating and weight loss.”

These findings will not be news to the clients who flock to Rory Warnock’s breathwork school in Sydney’s Bondi suburb. Or to the Olympic athletes, AFL players and CEOs who are huffing and puffing his studio door down on a regular basis. Most likely due to his soft Scottish accent and self-effacing manner, Rory has been adpoted by a raft of high-calibre companies, including Google, Amazon, BUPA and Energy Australia, eagre to learn how mindful breathing can bring better productivity to the workplace. He’s an ambassador for Apple and Lululemon, and has evolved into a seasoned conference speaker. Warnock’s brave career-change gamble has clearly paid off.

When he’s not teaching the world’s movers and shakers how to harness the power of something that we all do around 20,000 times a day without even thinking, Rory has gotten into the habit of bookending his year with long-distance races; for him, breathwork and ultra-marathon running are intimately linked. But he insists that mental issues can be addressed on a more prosaic level.

“You don’t have to go for a 45-minute yoga class or a run,” he insists. “You can just do a few minutes or even a few seconds of breathwork and you can move from a low state, to a better mood state. And it is exactly the same with anxiety; if you are feeling stressed and overwhelmed, there are breathing exercises you can do in real time to shift how you feel.” Negronis are allowed, too.

Rory Wornock, discover Rory Wornock’s breath lessons on Spotify.

Rakxa Wellness

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The Bird Man

Neil Perry returns to the Cantonese coop
with a sensational new Sydney eatery.

By Horacio Silva 14/09/2024

When Neil Perry was casing a potential venue for a new restaurant, a heritage-listed, modernist masterpiece in Double Bay designed by the architect and former Woollahra mayor Neville Gruzman, it reminded the celebrated chef of a birdcage. The image of the columbary building, all windows and dramatic vertical panels, captivated him. A year later, it has inspired the opening of Sydney’s most hotly anticipated new restaurant, Song Bird.

The three-level, 230-seater joins Perry’s other joints in the swank block —the award-winning seafood restaurant Margaret, the adjacent bar Next Door and the Baker Bleu bakery two doors up. It also marks a return to Cantonese fare for Perry, who made his name partly on the success of renowned Sydney eateries Wokpool and Spice Temple, and a welcome coming home for quality Chinese in the area.

“Bizarrely, there were two really great Chinese restaurants in Double Bay,” Perry recalls. “The Imperial Peking, just upstairs from where Scanlan Theodore is now, was terrific, and the nearby Cleveland was probably the best Chinese restaurant in Sydney in the early ’90s. That’s what I’m aspiring to.” What made these two erstwhile locations so good, Perry adds, was that they didn’t overreach: “Just beautiful Chinese food and great service. That’s the secret sauce.” It won’t be all Spencer Gulf king prawn dumplings, Peking duck, and steamed ginger and shallot coral trout. Rebel-rousing is also on the menu. Downstairs, in the old Pelicano space, will house Bobbie’s, a speakeasy in conjunction with Linden Pride and Nathalie Hudson of New York’s renowned Caffe Dante, named after Pride’s grandfather, the legendary Australian broadcaster Bob Rogers.

Linden Pride and Neil Perry at Bobbie’s in Double Bay

The good times will also be rolling on September 17, when Robb Report takes over Song Bird to serenade Perry, our Culinary Master of the Year. When it came time to select the year’s standout gastronomic talent, the choice was easy. Ditto the avian-esque venue. As such, be sure to pick up our next issue for a special section devoted to Culinary Masters. It’s bound to make gourmands chirp with delight. 

Song Bird & Bobbie’s

 

 

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Shooting Star

As her four-decade retrospective embarks on a national tour, convention-challenging Australian photographer Anne Zahalka is looking backwards to move forward.

By Horacio Silva 13/09/2024

Anne Zahalka’s office is a museum-worthy cabinet of curiosities. Located on the first floor of the photographer’s terrace in Sydney’s inner city, next to a room that serves as a makeshift studio, it is replete with the standard ephemera and clutter of an artist’s lair. On the wall in front of her desk hangs a portrait (taken by Zahalka’s aunt, a fellow photographer) of her mother as a young woman and a shelf filled with CDs, floppy disks and other outdated technology; on another, mounted shelves heave under the weight of 40 years of project folders. 

“Maybe it’s because I’m getting older,” Zahalka, now 68, says over tea while flicking through the pages of documentation from her first show in 1981, “but I’m feeling increasingly nostalgic, and these folders are invaluable. Being able to go back to the year the works were made and looking at the documentation and research is beyond helpful. I turn to them all the time.” Behind Zahalka’s desk, a bookshelf teems with magazines and publications she has been featured in and go-to reference books on everything from trompe l’oeil to Goya and portraiture.

Installation shot of Kunstkammer – Anne’s studio reproduction at NAS Gallery. Image by Jackie Manning.

The curated miscellany is not only an invaluable source of daily inspiration, but as a maquette on top of a filing cabinet suggests, it is also a focal point of a new exhibition. Running through October 19 at Sydney’s National Arts School (NAS) before a national tour, ZahalkaworldAn Artist’s Archive is the most comprehensive survey of the photographer’s work since she emerged in the early 1980s and bloomed into one of Australia’s most thought-provoking artists. At the heart of the exhibition is Kunstkammer, a life-size immersive recreation of Zahalka’s office—albeit a bit tidier than in reality. “It’s the centrepiece of the show,” says the softly spoken artist. “I like to be generous about how my work is made and the thinking behind it. People don’t get to see that often, and this is an opportunity to open that up and share where I have lived and worked.”

Staged over the two floors of the NAS Gallery, Zahalkaworld, which debuted at the Museum of Australian Photography in 2023, presents more than 100 original prints from 15 series over the years, and assorted curios and collectibles from her office and studio. Her initial reworkings of Old Master and Early Australian paintings presaged a fondness for collage and photomontage, working with found historical images to tell new stories about underrepresented members of society. In one of her most famous works, The Bathers (1989), a recreation of Charles Meere’s Australian Beach Pattern (1940), she recasts the all-white original with a diverse cast of characters she encountered in the late ’80s after returning to Australia from a Berlin residency. “I’m interested in how we are represented and in our national image,” she says. “My work often tries to decode and untangle that and come up with other figures not represented in the culture.”

Anne ZAHALKA, The Bathers 1989, taken from the series Bondi: playground of the Pacific. Chromogenic print 95 x 112 cm. Museum of Australian Photography, City of Monash Collection donated through the Australian Government’s Cultural Gifts Program by the Bowness Family 2010. Image supplied courtesy of the artist, Arc One Gallery, Melbourne and Dominik Mersch Gallery, Sydney.

The exhibition marks a poignant homecoming of sorts for Zahalka, having studied at the NAS in the late ’70s before returning a few years later to teach photo-media. Sharing pride of place alongside six of her works from the gallery’s collection are five recent works that deal with natural history and incorporate images of old museum dioramas in her sharp, often humorous criticisms of tourism and other environmental interferences wreaking havoc on the planet. Cast aways (2024) is set against the background of a 1939 diorama of Lord Howe Island at the Australian Museum. But in Zahalka’s reworking, pioneering conservationists (lifted from another painting) examine plastic pollution while planes fly overhead, and contrails replace clouds.

Anne ZAHALKACast aways, 2024 from the series Future Past Present Tense. Solvent ink print on rag paper, 80 × 120 cm. Image courtesy of the artist and ARC ONE Gallery, Melbourne

Something is comforting, she adds, about recreating and reimagining these historical scenarios, even if it is to comment on the consequences of ocean pollution. As for revisiting her past, what has looking in the rearview mirror revealed about herself and her work? “Some things, like making these disruptions on history to speak about the current place we’re in, have remained the same,” she says. “But if this whole process of preparing for the show has taught me anything, it’s that there are a lot of parts to me.” The studio may be messy, but nostalgia has never looked so fresh.

Visit NAS Gallery for all ZAHALKAWORLD showing until 19 October.

Top image: Anne ZAHALKA, The Artist (self portrait) 1988, taken from the series Resemblance II. Silver dye bleach print, 50.0 x 50.0 cm. Image supplied courtesy of the artist, represented by ARC ONE Gallery (Melbourne) and Dominik Mersch Gallery (Sydney).

 

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