Robb Interview: Philipe Starck

It’s easier to perhaps list the things he hasn’t created. From Steve Jobs’ yacht to his famed Louis Ghost chairs, the interiors of the Elysée Palace, luxury residential homes, the world’s most controversial (and recognisable) lemon squeezer, The Mondrian to cars and boats and planes and, well, more. Step inside the mind of the famed French designer.

By Richard Clune 12/01/2023

I spent my late youth staring at Philip Starck’s naked torso.

It was the cover of an eponymous art book – Starck standing proudly and puffed out, a right hand pulling at a belt loop of washed denim jeans, his head twisted 180 degrees to the rear, the back of his head sat atop his doughy body facing outwards.

In hindsight it was a pretty crude Photoshop job (the reverse play informing the book’s back cover) but it also projected an immediate sense of fun and whimsy – two tenets often found in his wide output, and surely, an insight into the man himself.

The book stood tall on the bookshelf of the share house bedroom I bunked down in – a peculiar image that would prove my final sight each day.

Cut to a here and 11pm one recent Wednesday and a slightly blurred image of an older Philipe Starck — thoughtful as he speaks, a permanent smirk etched across his gentle, bearded face – presents itself through the Macbook.

Our conversation is wide-ranging and far removed from expectation. Here there is indeed whimsy and fun, zero ego or even any appreciation for all he has achieved.

Starck will admit that his is a “lonely” existence through choice, a life devoid of people (save his wife, Jasmine) and time spent lost to his mind and its constant, swirling whir of creation.

Read the following as it is. Let his words play out as they do. It is at times rambling, contradictory and arguably lined by eccentricity. And some is muddled by translation, sure.
But read this and also hear the genius that walks a sharpened edge; the wonder of his mind; the love and creativity that drives all Philipe Starck does.

Starck’s iconic Louis Ghost, inspired by armchairs popular during King Louis XVI’s reign.

Mr Stark, good evening. I wanted to say, as someone who’s long admired and directly engaged your work at times, what a privilege it is to speak with you.

Oh, you will be disappointed – you will see [laughs].

 

Am I right in thinking that you’re in Portugal?
We are in the mist, we are in the fog, atop of the mountain in Sintra, near the sea.

 

You like to live remotely – it’s my understanding that most of your global properties are somewhat removed?  

There is a technical reason, which is, I live somewhere else in my head. And I basically don’t need a city, I don’t need to go to dinner, to cocktails, to movie theatres, exhibitions and things like that. I have a collection [of houses] in the middle of nowhere with different levels of loneliness… And these different levels of loneliness make for different levels of concentration and that’s where I go to find the level of concentration I need for the type of project I am doing. Here I am in front of the sea at the western point of Europe and I live in the forests with trees, trees, trees. Or I live in the dunes with sand, sand, sand. Or I live in the mud like in my oyster farm in southwest of France or Venice.

 

Is there inspiration in such surrounds?

No. For me, nature – the sea and trees – is neutral. And I’m not intelligent enough to ask for inspiration … I am also not stupid enough or egoist [sic] enough to judge the quality of my work – but we can see the quantity of my work. At this level of creativity [I make] minimum one big complex project a day, sometimes more. Today I shall make one, two, three, four complex and completely different projects. My wife says it’s not really human – I have a mental sickness and it is true, because I have my life and my fantastic wife and everything, but I have no ‘real’ life … To speak frankly, I’m not interested by ‘real’ life. I’m a drug addict of creativity and inside my metal sickness I’m absolutely normal. Everything that I do is absolutely logical inside the crystal bubble of my mental sickness – I don’t regret it.

 

Your mind is forever restless is what I take from this – which explains your incredible output over the years.

Yes that is so. This idea of holidays and relaxation – it’s an obscenity because I don’t see why you would do that; why have holidays when you have the opportunity to live by passion?  I actually can’t make anything other than three things: I can love definitively and I’m very happy and very proud of that, I live for the love of my wife. And then, after that, ha ha, I don’t remember, I have no memory… [laughs]

 

I recall you like sailing …

Yes, YES — it was this, you are very good. The other thing I know well after love, I’m very good at piloting a sailing boat and also motorcycles and a very good pilot of planes – except when I crash, I did this one time.

The distinctive 142-metre Starck- designed Sailing Yacht A, with 90-metre masts.

 

The sense of sole focus when piloting – that must appeal in ways given your mind?

I work at a range of 200 – 250 projects at the same time. When I make shoes, I think at the same time about something else, this is my mental sickness … When you pilot a plane you have a need to think only of one thing – to pilot. I like to sail in bad seas and large waves – if you make a mistake that can be a disaster, you turn and break your mast and then you and dead.

 

You like the extremes Mr Starck – there is no fear there. I dare say your fear lives in the framework of conformity – and is perhaps a driving force?

Oh no, I never react to anything. I never make a protestation to something else …

 

Are you very critical of yourself?
I hate what I do and have the highest level of despise [sic] – I am sorry for my English — of myself and when I finish something my only reaction is to insult myself. I do this all the time, because I see in everything that I do how I was lazy, a coward, dishonest, stupid and I am ashamed of myself when I see what I do.

 

But what of the positivity your work brings to so many others others – wjo atre in wonder at what you’ve achieved at times.  They love what you do.

I don’t know because I never read magazines or interviews and I have almost no contact with people. This is why I have no reflection of myself and no reflection of what I do … Sometimes my wife tells me how a project is appreciated. ‘Oh good’, I will say, and that’ all … I don’t care, I just care for the engagement with myself; I do it for me and I think it’s a good process if you do it for yourself and at the highest level of creativity, the highest level of honesty.

 

Yours is a pure creativity – devoid of conscious and direct reflection?

It is pure and stupid creativity [laughs]. To be more clear, consciously I don’t think about it, but subconsciously I, well, sometimes I realise I’ve worked on a project for 50 years. [Gesticulates to his mind operating as an archaic computer processing ] “Schtroomf, schtroomf, schtroomf” and then one day it’s cooked and it’s finished and I take it out. Sometimes it’s not well cooked or finished and I reject it. Subconsciously I work on all things all the time – it’s a profit of this mental sickness. And it’s why people don’t believe me when I say I’ve designed the yacht of Steve Jobs in just three hours. Tomorrow I go to Iceland to make a polar station and I have [already] designed all the project without knowing the program elements and parametres of the design … In 20 minutes it’s all done.

 

You still design with pen and paper.

Yes, here is my international company [holds up pen and Stack monogrammed notepad]. And I have music too. Almost everyday I listen to the ‘Starck Mix’ – like that I always have the right music for concentration at the right time of the day. This is by the best sound designer in the world, Stephan Crasneanscki of Soundwalk [Collective]. He did it for me 20 years ago. I have other music too – for me the number one to work for concentration is Brian Eno – a perfect balance between intelligence and richness. I feel very close to Brian.

 

Let’s talk about this notion of art informing design, can they co-exist, do they need to …

Let’s separate the things here. I am not interested by the concept of art. To me it is an old bourgeois concept of the 17, -18-, 19th centuries. And everybody can be an artist – they write a business card: ‘Phillipe Stark, artist’. And there are artists who are creative and there are artists who are not creative. And I don’t like this part – because the artists who are not creative hide other creatives because they create things everywhere and in everything. To me it is not art that makes our animal species evolve – it’s creativity… I try to be a creator, I don’t care to be an artist.

 

Of all you continue to do, a standout is surely this shift into space with the AXIOM project  [world’s first commercial space station]. This is completely new to you and to all – it involves completely new thought about use, space and living. How wonderful.

My father had a company that built planes. I am a pilot and I work and travel a lot and live in the air more than on earth. And when I am on earth, I don’t touch the ground [laughs]. I am in the air and I am in this space. And so the thing to understand when you work on a new beautiful project like the new ISS and more – it’s not very complicated. You have to understand how very beautiful and special the people who live here are. Incredible. And you have to deeply understand what zero gravity life is. And life without gravity is very interesting – it’s a multidirectional life. We are mainly vertical, when you are dead horizontal, but mainly vertical and it’s not enough. And because we live vertical and sometimes horizontal [sic] our thinking and our dreams are only bi-directional. It is not enough. I love the idea of the zero-gravity life because it’s a higher self. I am proud of this project. For someone who only lives though future and science and intuition and freedom – it’s almost an intimate [project] and we will continue on others.

Starck imagined the interior of Axiom Space, the world’s first commercial space station.

Again love shines through Mr Starck.

For me it is the only thing that exists. I am still not convinced I am alive – I still don’t know what life can be but that means I’m not scared of death … The only thing I know, I see my wife and I see this very strong energy and this is very serious for me – the only hook I have with anything is this tube made of love between my wife and myself.

 

What a lovely way to see things …

Well, without it, without love, I think I’d be in an asylum.

 

I doubt that somehow. While you’ll never read this – thankyou for your time, merci mille fois, et j’espere a bientot.

Merci a vous.

starck.com 

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Painted Black

Dion Lee is teaming up with Cho Cho San for an Australian Fashion Week event.

By Horacio Silva 10/05/2024

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Nowhere more than in the fashion world. Despite the vagaries of taste, black remains the go-to colour of choice. Fitting, then, that for next week’s Australian Fashion Week, the perennially black-clad media darling Dion Lee has partnered with Pott’s Point Izakaya joint Cho Cho San on a black-themed late-night ramen bar.

Lee, based in New York and not showing in Sydney next week, has worked with the restaurant to create a menu inspired by his inky, haute-industrial aesthetic and favourite flavours.

As part of the signature offering ($50pp) guests are offered “Dion’s Martini” on arrival (his take on the classic vodka drink spiked with a black olive, natch), a Tokyo-style shoyu ramen with shitake mushrooms, smoked daikon and crunchy tempura shiso leaf, and a winning black sesame and cocoa soft-serve ice-cream replete with black cone. (Trust us, it tastes infinitely better than it sounds.)

Lee rarely strays outside his fashion lane, but a little blackbirdie tells us to expect an announcement soon about a major new collaboration. Let’s hope it involves black ice cream.

Cho Cho San x Dion Lee: Late Night Ramen Bar

Available from May 13-16, 5pm to late.

Signature set: $50pp includes Dion’s Martini, Tokyo Shoyu Ramen and Black Sesame Soft Serve.

To book click here

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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