28 Rolex Terms Every Watch Collector Should Know, From Coronet to Double Swiss Underline

Cyclops, Frog Foot, Eagle Beak and more, explained.

By Oren Hartov 01/10/2022

So you saved up for your first Rolex, and you decided to go the “vintage” route. But now, a problem — what the hell are all these weird terms and phrases being bandied about? “Frog foot” and “gilt” and “tropical” and “Bart Simpson”—it sounds like the frenzied mutterings of some drunken cartoon character in a contemporary production of Alice In Wonderland. How exactly does all this relate to watches, and to Rolex watches, more specifically?

Here’s the thing: Rolex aficionados love this stuff. It’s like a secret, coded language that signals that someone else is an insider, that that person loves horological esoterica as much as the next nerd. But it’s also not that complicated, for a variety of reasons, not least of which is that we’ve compiled a cheat sheet for you. Now, the next time you see that vintage-watch dealer, you can be sure that you’ll be on an equal footing. Kinda. At the least, they’ll know that you are someone who cares enough about the subject to sweat the details.

NOTE: If you’re looking for a guide to Rolex nicknames—i.e. the nicknames of different watch models—click here. What we’re cataloguing here is the language of the obsessive and the collector. Think of it as the only Rolex glossary you’ll ever need.

Essential Rolex Terminology

2-Line: A dial with only two lines of text above the 6 o’clock marker, such as certain Ref. 14060 Submariners without denoted Chronometer certification. Some prefer the uncluttered looks of these dials.

Rolex Submariner 14060 Photo: Courtesy Crown & Caliber

4-Line: A dial with four lines of text. On a Ref. 14060M Submariner, for example, this would add the chronometer certification to the model name and depth rating.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060

Bark Finish: A feature of certain President bracelets in which the gold material is etched to look like bark.

Rolex Day-Date With a Bark Finish Bracelet

Big Crown: Certain early Submariners featured an oversized, 8mm winding crown—these include references 6200, 6538, and 5510.

1955 Rolex “Big Crown” Submariner 6200

Coronet: The Rolex crown logo.

The Rolex Coronet sits at 12 o’clock on a Cellini Moonphase watch. Rolex

Cyclops: A watch crystal with a built-in magnifier for the date, first released in 1948 on a Datejust model and patented in 1952. Originally these were made of acrylic and were part of the crystal; later (and current) sapphire models feature a Cyclops manufactured separately and affixed to the main crystal.

A Rolex GMT-Master II with a cyclops lens over the date aperture. Rolex

Double Swiss Underline: A particular dial on the first Daytona Ref. 6239 that features an underline beneath the word “Cosmograph” and two “SWISS” signatures—one above the 6 o’clock marker, and one below the minute track, which is partially covered by the watch’s rehaut.

The Double Swiss Underline dial on a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. Sotheby’s

Eagle Beak: A crown guard style found on certain Ref. 5512 Submariners from the late 1950s/early 1960s in which the guards are shaped like eagles’ beaks. (As opposed to the square style that preceded them, or the pointed style that followed.)

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 with Eagle Beak crown guards. HQ Milton

Explorer Dial: A dial featuring the Explorer I’s distinctive mix of dash, Arabic and triangular markers. This dial appeared on certain earlier Submariners such as the Ref. 6200 and certain 5513s.

1955 Rolex “Big Crown” Submariner 6200 Tropical Watch

Feet First: A dial in which the depth rating begins with feet rather than meters, i.e. “660ft=220m.” This may indicate that the watch in question—generally a Sub—was destined for the American market, but this is collector guesswork.

Vintage Rolex Submariner 5513 “Feet First” Dial (1972) Photo: Courtesy Bob’s Watches

Frog Foot: A particular type of Rolex coronet (crown) found on certain Rolex sport watches (reference 1016s, 1655s, etc.) made in the late 1960s through the mid-1970s, in which the coronet is wider and looks like the foot of…well….a frog.

Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 with a Frog Foot Dial

Ghost Bezel: An aluminium bezel in which the colouring has faded—especially from black to blue or grayish.

Rolex GMT Master Ref. 1675 Ghost Bezel

Glossy Gilt Dial: A type of early Rolex dial in which the underlying brass dial blank is exposed, yielding text and other features (such as minute tracks, etc.) that looks golden in hue. These types of dials were eventually replaced by matte, and then by glossy dials with white printing and applied white gold surrounds.

Rolex GMT Master Ref. 1675 with a Glossy Gilt Dial

HEV: The “helium escape valve,” which features on certain Rolex Professional models such as the Sea-Dweller. This one-way valve allows helium molecules to escape the watch during decompression, which prevents the crystal from flying off the watch. (Yes—this is an actual problem—if you’re a saturation diver.)

Rolex Sea-Dweller

Matte Dial: A dial in use on Rolex sport watches (and others) from the mid-late 1960s through the mid-1980s. These did away with the “gilt” printing of the earlier gilt-gloss dials and instead featured a flat black surface with white text and painted tritium indices.

A Rolex Submariner with a Matte Dial. HQ Milton

Maxi Dial: A dial that features oversized lume plots for increased legibility.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 with a Maxi Dial

Mercedes Hands: This is a unique Rolex handset featured on many references whose minute hand has a round portion divided into three equally sized portions—much like the Mercedes logo. (The first Sub to feature this handset is the Ref. 6204 from 1954.)

Rolex Ref. 124273 Oyster Perpetual with Mercedes Hands

Meters First: A dial in which the depth rating gives meters before feet, i.e. “200m=660ft.”

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 with a Meters First Dial

Neat Font: A dial style in which the printing is executed in a script that has been described as more standardised and “neater.” (Older Subs often feature printing that looks distinctly hand-drawn and messy.) Certain Ref. 5512 Subs feature such dials.

Rolex Ref. 5512 with a Neat Font Dial

Oyster: A highly water resistant case with a screw-down crown and screw-down caseback released in 1926 and featured on most Rolex watches ever since. (Currently, only the dressy Cellini doesn’t feature an Oyster case.)

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 126000 Models

PCG (Pointed Crown Guards): A crown guard style in which the crown guards are pointed, as opposed to squared or “eagle’s beak” guards. These can be found on Ref. 5512 Subs from roughly 1959-1963.

Rolex Submariners with Square (left) and Pointed Crown Guards

Small Crown: This term generally refers to early Subs that featured a smaller winding crown, such as the references 6204, 6205, 6536/1, and more.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 6204

Spider Dial: A type of glossy dial in which the lacquer coating has developed fine cracks, aka “crazing,” resulting in a spider web-like appearance. Though a definite defect, certain collectors are attracted to this look.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800 With a Spider Dial

Stella Dial: A brightly coloured, lacquered dial found on certain Day-Date watches from the 1970s and made for Rolex by a company called Stella. These were primarily meant for the Middle Eastern market.

Rolex Stella Dials

Swiss Exclamation Point Dial: A dial in which a small, circular lume plot below the vertical, rectangular one at 6 o’clock forms what looks like an exclamation point, which is joined by a “SWISS” signature below the chapter ring. This dial featured on Subs, Explorers, and GMT-Masters in the late 1950s/early 1960s for a time.

Rolex GMT Master Ref. 1675 with a Swiss Exclamation Point

Super Case: Sometimes mistakenly called a “maxi case,” this describes a Submariner or GMT-Master II case with fatter lugs and a larger bezel, giving the impression of a larger watch even though certain Super cases measure 40mm in diameter like their predecessors.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 116610 with a Super Case

Tapestry Dial: A dial that features vertical ridges. Sometimes found, for example, on 5-digit Datejusts from the late 1970s/early 1980s.

Rolex Ref. 18238 with a Tapestry Dial

Tropical: A black dial that has turned brown due to degradation of the paint used, possibly due to UV exposure, humidity, moisture, etc. These dials are highly desirable if even in their colouration.

Four tropical dial Rolexes offered at Bob’s Watches.
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Follow Your Nose 

Embark on an olfactory adventure with these location-inspired scents.

By Justin Fenner 18/10/2024

At the end of a memorable visit to the Dominican Republic, Robert Gerstner decided to commission a souvenir. He’d been fascinated by the aromas of cigars being rolled and boxed during a factory tour, so he asked his friend and travelling companion, the perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, if he could bottle the scent. 

“I didn’t really think there were any great tobacco fragrances out there,” Gerstner says, and he would know. For nearly 30 years he’s run Aedes, a New York City perfume shop that offers exclusive scents, including an in-house collection called Aedes de Venustas. The newest, Café Tabac, debuted last December and is the product of Duchaufour’s efforts. It’s named for the Big Apple’s long-shuttered supermodel hangout, but the scent is redolent of the Dominican Republic’s key export. 

Since then, a raft of houses have launched scents that are either directly evocative of, or otherwise inspired by, specific destinations—a trend that makes sense given our near-insatiable thirst for visiting new places. “Locations are one of the main things fragrances stir up in you,” Gerstner says. 

“It just happens that you get inspired by travelling.”

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Lopud, Croatia

 

This small island in the Adriatic Sea has forests of pine, cypress and some of the tallest palms in Europe. The scent, created with perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, captures the sea air that blows through their leaves and fronds to combine with the crisp aroma of locally grown thyme, rosemary and figs. Around $330 for 100 ml 

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Pharrell Williams asked Vuitton’s in-house master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud to capture the energy of sunshine. The result—named in reference to Williams’s home state, Virginia (which, they say, is for lovers)—is a bright, lively blend of galbanum, cedarwood, sandalwood and ginger. $535 for 100 ml 

Perfumehead La La Love
Los Angeles, USA 

Consider this an olfactory ode to the City of Angels creatives who work as hard as they play. Perfumer Constance Georges-Picot’s gourmand concoction smells like a cocktail you could easily have one
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Turkey is among the world’s foremost saffron producers, and the spice’s earthy, tea-like scent takes centre stage in this effort by nose Gaël Montero. He balanced it with sandalwood, benzoin, myrrh and jasmine to create a warming scent that’s perfect for the cooler months but still works all year. $460 for 75 ml 

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The Art of Cartier

The Maison des Métiers d’art plays a pivotal role in preserving Cartier’s most special bodies of expertise.

By Brad Nash 16/10/2024

Cartier is a brand synonymous with lavish city living. Yet despite its swathe of multi-storey monuments to all things brilliant, it’s a rather unassuming Maison, set amidst the rolling green fields of La Chaux-de-Fond, where the house’s most special brand of magic is woven.

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In a world of luxury often defined by sales figures and splashy celebrity endorsements, the artistic merits of a house like Cartier can sometimes be in danger of getting lost among the noise. However, in this revered Maison, one is reminded of the craftsmanship and creativity that sets some institutions apart from the rest.

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Golden Touch

Discretion is the better part of glamour at the glittering Maybourne Beverly Hills. 

By Horacio Silva 09/10/2024

Los Angeles does not want for star wattage, but for years now, the city’s hotel scene has been a little lacklustre. So news that the beloved Montage hotel has been completely redone under the Maybourne brand (the British powerhouse that operates Claridge’s, The Connaught, and Berkeley Hotels in London, and the recently opened Maybourne Riviera on the Côte d’Azur) should come as a boon to Australians looking for a new Tinseltown bolthole.

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Set amid the manicured, Mediterranean-style Beverly Cañon Gardens plaza, which unfolds from the hotel’s west entrance, the new incarnation of Montage Beverly Hills (55 suites and 20 private residences, each with a balcony or patio with a courtyard or city view) still evokes the grand estates of Old Hollywood while feeling like you’re in a European mainstay.

Revealing a restrained new guestroom and suite design by Bryan O’Sullivan, a blue-chip art collection and some of the most solicitous staff in town, the Maybourne speaks in a laid-back Californian accent but still holds true to the luxury touchpoints of five-star service for which one of the world’s most exclusive neighbourhoods—and hotel brands—is known.

“It’s reassuringly British when it comes to service—it’s a culture of yes,” says Linden Pride, the Australian restaurant and bar owner behind the award-winning Caffe Dante in New York and Bobbie’s, the new speakeasy opening this month below Neil Perry’s new Song Bird restaurant in Sydney’s Double Bay (page 40). Pride should know; he lived at the Maybourne for almost a year while he and his partner, Nathalie Hudson, set up Dante, the stunning new restaurant and bar on the hotel’s ninth-floor rooftop. “Looking out from the roof onto lemon and olive trees, it’s easy to forget that you’re in Southern California, not Europe.”

Opened last year, Dante has quickly become one of the hottest reservations in town, luring in celebrities from Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin to the entire Real Madrid soccer team. Like its sister outposts in New York (besides the Greenwich Village original, a West Village location opened in 2020), the focus here is on non-threatening antipasti and aperitivi in a produce-driven menu of fresh familiar stalwarts, with the addition of wood-fired dishes from a giant pizza oven at the heart of the room. Just as it does in New York, a negroni cart does the rounds, and each afternoon is welcomed with a martini happy hour.

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Catalina Turns 30

While Most Restaurants Possess The Lifespan of a Butterfly, Catalina Stands Apart For Serving Sydney For Three Decades

By Belinda Aucott-christie 02/10/2024

Quick and easy yacht access. Arrival by seaplane. A touch of caviar and vintage Champagne to kick things off? Catalina has in spades what the Emerald City is truly famous for.  Even after three decades of service, this Rose Bay fixture remains a desirable address.

Afternoons and evenings here always manage to etch themselves on the memory for years to come. And this year, as Catalina marks its 30 anniversary, it’s appropriate to raise a glass to this institution’s winning formula that balances a dramatic outlook with a calming interior.

Whether you’re watching the seaplanes take off by day or being mesmerised by the shadow play of seagulls on the curving terrace by night, Sydney Harbour provides a stunning backdrop.

It’s a magical setting that is made sweeter by how little the place has changed.

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It includes Glacier 51 toothfish served with a cigar of spanner crab roulade, and juicy Spanish mackerel cooked to perfection in red curry sauce with crunchy sugar snap peas. To up the ante this summer you can also indulge in a delicious Rock lobster risotto, order Catalina’s signature suckling pig or hail down their new roaming dessert cocktail trolley (created by designer du jour David Caon).

“We’re about to celebrate 30 years, which is an achievement we’re very proud of,” said owner and founder Judy McMahon at Veuve Clicquot’s 2015 La Grande Dame launch in August. 

Dressed in an immaculate white head-to-toe outfit, McMahon was quick to acknowledge the commitment and support of her children James and Kate who have stepped up to the plate since the passing of her late husband, Michael, in early 2020.

 

The new guard is flying the flag for fine dining in his honour, serving plenty of freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters, pouring energetic wines from all over the world and maintaining an elegant continuum beloved by Sydney locals.

And because everything tastes better with a view,  there’s really no better place to unwind that here, with a fine glass of Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame rosé Champagne and a trout and herring roe churro.

Catalina

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10 Impossibly Elegant Dress Watches to Wear at Your Black-Tie Holiday Party

Next-level dress watches to spruce up your tux from Cartier and Vacheron Constantin to Piaget and more.
Published on October 10, 2024

By Carol Besler 17/10/2024

There are times when bells and whistles like helium valves, jumbo bezels, and lume-slathered markers should be kept firmly in the storage drawer in favour of something more understated and composed.

Holiday galas, formal festive dinners, and black-tie events call for a solid, classic dress watch. Except that it should be a step up in some way from the classic day watch: a platinum case, a status-conferring high complication (one that is rendered with tasteful discretion), or a pop of subtle sparkle by way of diamond highlights or a rare stone dial. Here are 10 possibilities that are poised, elegant, and quietly luxurious for the holiday season—although, with the appeal of the dress watch on the rise, you should consider these year round.

Jean-Daniel Meyer

The Ellipse, first introduced in 1968, is one of the many shaped watches that emerged as a new genre during the late sixties and early ’70s. The Ellipse, despite being known for its distinctive chain bracelets, has always been a favorite of male collectors. Patek revived it this year after 15 years in development, and equipped it with the ultra-thin caliber 240, which makes it the slimmest watch in the Patek Philippe regular collection: perfect for slipping neatly under a crisp French cuff. $89,817

The Platinum Excellence line is a capsule collection, produced occasionally, only in limited editions (50 for this one), and always in platinum, including the dial, crown, pushers and buckle. Even the stitches of the leather strap are a mix of silk and platinum. Since it’s a chronograph, you can use it as a countdown function at New Year’s Eve parties, and in the process, show off the tourbillon in the 12 o’clock position. Price upon request.

Photo: Parmigiani

Since taking over as CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier in 2021, Guido Terreni has leaned into the brand’s legacy as a maker of high-level classic dress watches. Not by making dramatic statement pieces but by doubling down on refinement. “We are seeing a rediscovery of sartorialism, which is booming as a business,” says Terreni. “Gentlemen in their thirties are rediscovering how beautiful it is to dress well.” Enough said. $138,693

Photo: Breguet

If any brand can stake a claim to the word “Classique,” it’s Breguet. The Ref. 7637 is the epitome of quiet elegance. While it appears low key on the dial, inside it comes equipped with watchmaking’s crème de la crème complication, the minute repeater. The hands and coin-edge caseband are pure Breguet, and the grand feu enamel dial and elegant star-shaped minute markers (with stylized fleur-de-lys at five-minute intervals) are subtly scream luxury. It contains the hand-wound caliber 567.2, which is so outstandingly decorated that flipping the case over to admire it is a must. Price upon request.

Photo: Rolex

Rolex drops its sports watch persona for a moment with this new collection that demonstrates it also knows how to do classic dress watches. The rice-grain guilloché pattern on the dial is everything, but especially here in the signature ice blue that Rolex reserves for its platinum editions. It’s a colour that true aficionados will recognise from across the room as an elite model from the mighty Crown. $46,181.

Photo: Audemars Piguet

High complications are made for moments of high occasion and pretension, but only if they are elegantly rendered. This souped-up Royal Oak is a long way from the RO’s sports watch roots. It’s an openworked tourbillon cased in AP’s proprietary sand gold alloy—a colour that hovers between white and pink gold—and looks understated compared to most all-gold watches. CHF 250,000 (about $434,912)

Photo: Piaget

Until this year, Piaget called this the Black Tie collection, but because the model, which was originally launched in the 1980s, was worn by Andy Warhol, Piaget received permission from the artist’s estate this year to officially name it the Andy Warhol collection. This malachite version in white gold demonstrates one of Piaget’s prowess in the use of stone dials. Combined with a ruby stud set and cuff links, it’s made for the holiday season but will look sharp year round. $76,221

Photo: Laurent Ferrier

Yes, it’s a salmon dial, and yes, it has the word “sport” written right on the dial, so there’s no hiding that. Yet, Laurent Ferrier has a way of making a sports watch look like a classic dress watch. You can’t even see the tourbillon that is also advertised on the dial and finished to perfection. It’s a stellar example of the emphasis on of the versatility of watches that waver between the dress and sports watch category. It is powered by the manual-wound tourbillon caliber LF619.01 with a double balance spring and an 80-hour power reserve. $283,963


Photo : H. Moser & Cie

This watch is the happy result of a marriage between tradition and modernity, with a classic case and minimalist markings coupled with state-of-the-art nanotechnology. The Vantablack dial (Vertically Aligned Nano Tube Arrays), an ultra-black coating that is considered the darkest substance in the world, puts the black in black tie. The subtle tourbillon hovering at 6 o’clock adds a punctuation of pizzazz to the otherwise stark dial. $123,299

Photo: Cartier

The Tank became synonymous with dress watch when Cartier invented it in 1922, just as watches were emerging as something you could wear on the wrist rather than hidden in the pocket. It was worn mainly by the bourgeoisie to confirm their status. The brancards were inspired by army tanks, but the design now represents personal victories rather than war-time inspo. On this one, a frame of 150 diamonds surrounding a black laquer center square place it firmly in the black tie category. From $31,000

 

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