The Piaget Altiplano vs. the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle: Which Solid-Gold Dress Watch Is Better?
We took Piaget’s and Vacheron’s flagship gold dress watches out into the highlife of Manhattan. Here’s what it was like to wear these classic watches.
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The trend toward dress watches, and smaller ones in particular, has been so powerful that even Rolex sports watches are dropping in valueas prices for the dressy 36 mm Day-Date skyrocket. It’s not as if the solid-gold dress watch ever really fell off the horological map, of course, but there’s no denying that today’s watch enthusiast is more interested in a classic dress watch than in the past decade.
Part of the explanation could be that crypto-bros and pandemic collectors have left the scene, but there has also been a surge of interest in quiet luxury in the past couple of years. The sartorial zeitgeist, it seems, is in transition.
For those of us who prefer simple, time-only dress watches, the moment feels like a needed correction. I personally own and wear a bevy of small vintage Vacheron Constnatin time-only watches from what many call the golden era of Swiss watchmaking—the 1940s through the 1960s—and they serve me well every day. If I, and many of my aspiring sartorial cohorts, have a complaint about modern dress watches, it is that they’re too big. Even the modern Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 5227 at 37 mm—though among the most gorgeous solid-gold dress watches currently produced—is borderline indiscrete. One watch dealer told me that he advised his client to stop wearing his 5227 in Manhattan, for hear he’d get mugged.
One lesson that a watch journalist eventually learns is that you can’t meaningfully judge a watch until you’ve seen it in person. But it’s even better to wear it for days on end, and better still to wear it in a special context that will draw out the subtleties of a design. With that in mind, we asked Piaget and Vacheron Constantin to lend us two modern solid-gold, time-only dress watches, both in solid pink gold, for a few weeks. We took in the 35 mm Piaget Altiplano Origin ($20,300) and the 38 mm Vacheron Constantin Tradionelle ($23,700). The next step was to find an occasion to put them through their paces.
That occasion arose when we were invited to hang out with the renown Manhattan-based Italian tailor Max Girombelli at his swanky studio Duca Sartoria on the upper East Side.
Max is dashing, his tailoring second-to-none, his client list elite, and his own watch collection filled with vintage Rolexes, many small, time-only models. Max told Robb Report that he enjoys wearing time-only watches with tradionally tailored suits and jackets, as they offer a quiet accent. We couldn’t agree more.
Max lit up when he saw the Arturo Fuente cigars I brought him (his favorite non-Cubans), but he smiled even more widely when I unveiled the Piaget Altiplano. The bright red alligator strap picked up the tri-coloré stitching on the tunnel cuff of his tailored white shirt, and his warm smile accompanied his nostalgia for the Piaget dress watches that dominated Italy’s mid-century heyday.
As the watch made the rounds, everyone was impressed with its simple, confident, traditional design, and the women in the room were especially happy about the 35 mm size. If there’s a naturally unisex watch being made today, it’s the Piaget Altiplano Origin.
We all lit up over the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle, as well. Granted, the brown strap was quite a divergence from the flashy red strap on the Piaget, but the Vacheron spoke with even greater confidence from behind its reserved, perfectly executed visage. The dauphine handset and sub-seconds dial emit quiet confidence and precision, while the highly decorated hand-wound movement, visible from behind the clear caseback, is a surefire conversation starter.
At 38 mm, the Vacheron does wear a little large, but not annoyingly so. The pink-gold is not ruddy red, and the silvered dial is subtly luminescent. When compared to the Piaget’s radially brushed dial that dances in the ambient light, the Vacheron, despite its larger size, may be the quieter watch of the two—this a testiment to both watches exhibiting their respective brand’s house-style to a tee.
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