5 Watch-World Insiders On Their Favourite New Timepieces of 2023

From Parmigiani’s minute repeater to Rolex’s Celebration dial, a group of serious connoisseurs weigh in on the coolest new models.

By Victoria Gomelsky 13/04/2023

If you’re a watch lover who dreams of meeting the most important makers in the high-end watch industry—from chief executives of leading brands to the brightest stars of the independent scene—do your best to emulate Gary Getz.

The collector spent a week in Geneva at the end of last month attending lunches, brunches, coffee dates, dinners, manufacture tours, keynote addresses, and countless watch presentations with fellow members of the NorCal Gang, all timed to the 2023 edition of Watches and Wonders.

From a kickoff dinner with Kari Voutilainen on his first Saturday in town to a visit to the Audemars Piguet Museum in Le Brassus on his final full day in Switzerland, Getz and friends left no watchmaking stone unturned (they even squeezed in a visit with legend Philippe Dufour).

We couldn’t resist asking Getz for his Geneva 2023 greatest hits so we could compare notes with the four other watch industry insiders with whom we spoke. There seemed to be some consensus among our group of five about the week’s best watch introductions. The list included Urwerk’s new UR-102 Reloaded, Parmigiani’s minimalist Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante, the pricey split-second chronograph from Petermann-Bédat and, of course, Rolex, whose colourful new Oyster Perpetual 41 with the “Celebration dial,” not to mention its off-catalog sibling, the Puzzle dial, made an impression on just about everyone.

“It was kind of like grandpa getting on the dance floor and we were all cheering for him,” William Massena, founder of the independent brand Massena LAB, said of the Rolex novelties. “It really shows you they’re trying to break out of the mould, letting their hair down. The end result is maybe a promise of more cool things to come. That was, for me the big takeaway: Rolex is doing something different.”

Below, we share unfiltered feedback from all the watch events in Geneva by way of the industry’s most astute observers.

Andrew Block, President and CEO of Second Time Partners

MB&F M.A.D House
MB&F M.A.D HouseMB&F

“I was very impressed by the M.A.D. House [MB&F’s new atelier]. We had an afternoon and dinner with [MB&F founder] Max Büsser. He continues to be my favorite watchmaker and brand. He’s real—about a real as they get. They built an amazing atelier and they have an archive of their creations. Now there’s the chance to display them. Max has a trophy case where all his GPHG trophies are and it shows. The Perpetual in steel is unbelievable.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

“I thought Parmigiani’s collection was focused, narrow and impressive. They have moved away from so many different references. I think Ulysse Nardin has done a great job of building around the Freak. DLC and carbon were everywhere. Even Rolex having a titanium Yacht-Master—that’s awesome.

IWC Ingenieur
IWC Ingenieur

“I was impressed by the fact that a lot of brands did not flood the market with new introductions. There was a lot of revisiting the past. A lot of redesigns, like the IWC Ingenieur. It used to be a clunky watch, but now it looks like a little Royal Oak.”

Asher Rapkin, Cofounder of Collective Horology

“The watch that stood out to me was the UR-102 Reloaded. I’m an unabashed fanboy of Urwerk. I have an Urwerk pen—I’m that level of nerd. This one is special. Not only does it go back to the origins of the brand, but it is also the most accessible of their watches, with 250 pieces—that’s a lot for Urwerk. I’m madly in love with the black DLC version of that watch.

Chopard L.U.C 1860
Chopard L.U.C 1860

“On the other side of the spectrum, I was in love with some of the Chopard references this year. The L.U.C 1860—this particular execution was a stunner and accompanied by a salmon dial. It’s elegance personified.

“Aside from that, two other pieces stood out: Zenith’s new Pilot flyback chronograph is just badass, and the steel version incorporates a hint of the rainbow El Primero, a cult classic. Seeing that—wink wink—come into the revised Pilot line was phenomenal. And the new Defy Skyline on black ceramic bracelet comes in under $15,000. It’s an incredible watch at a ludicrous price.

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback
Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

“One thing I saw which I found a little confounding: Some brands’ pricing is just getting absurd. I worry about this. Not only does it take an already expensive art form and make it more exclusive, but when you start asking six figures for watches and that wasn’t your brand’s bread and butter a few years ago, it’s very difficult for a client not to feel cynical about it. Like when you start seeing things doubling in price for a different form factor. Pricing in general is a head scratcher and a bit of a nerve in the community.

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Texalium Carbon
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Texalium Carbon

“I continue to be impressed by Hublot’s material innovation. A lot of brands are trying to double down on what makes them great. There’s not a lot of risk-taking but brands are trying to double down on who they are. Oris absolutely, between the ProPilot with Kermit, which demonstrates they don’t take themselves so seriously, while at the same time releasing a stupendous watch in the ProPilot Altimeter.

Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition

“You could say the exact same thing about 98% of the Rolex releases. Rolex is at its best when you look at the titanium Yacht-Master and the yellow gold GMT-Master on Jubilee bracelet with a smoked bezel—it’s just beautiful. I love that Rolex is starting to take more risk in the last five years.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual "Celebration Dial"
Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Celebration Dial”

“The Celebration dial I’d buy personally and while the Puzzle watch isn’t for me, I can’t think of any other time Rolex has done a concept-driven watch. That’s really cool. If you walk into a giant multi-brand boutique and it’s a yawn fest, you cannot get mad at Rolex for trying to change that.”

William Massena, Founder of Massena LAB

Chopard Alpine Eagle
Chopard Alpine Eagle

“At Palexpo, I liked the Chopard stainless steel re-edition of the Alpine Eagle with the salmon dial. I thought IWC was too little, too late and very expensive. I ordered the Chopard for myself, but there was nothing else I wanted to buy. I thought Vacheron was very bland. And Lange was underwhelming at best and very expensive. Otherwise, I’m drawing a blank.

Petermann-Bédat Monopusher Split-Second Chronograph Ref. 1967
Petermann-Bédat Monopusher Split-Second Chronograph Ref. 1967

“Outside of the fair, I saw Petermann-Bédat. Those kids, they’re young—like in their 30s—and they created a watch four years ago called the Ref. 1967 and it’s a great watch. Now they came up with a new one, a split chronograph, for a quarter million dollars. I thought it was the watch of the show, honestly, and I know I’m not alone.

“Another brand I really liked was the exact opposite of Petermann-Bédat: Argon Watches. They were showing at the Beau Rivage. It’s made by two kids in their 20s. One is Guillaume Laidet, who restarted Nivada Grenchen. He partnered with Theo Auffret. They came together and made a joint venture called Argon Watches. It’s kind of like De Bethune meets Urwerk meets a little bit MB&F, and the watch is $1,800.

“They showed the prototype. They want to see if they get some orders. It’s going to launch on Kickstarter, maybe sometime in May. It’s kind of a spaceship design with a cool way of presenting time, fresh and new.”

Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded
Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded

“I like Urwerk. They kind of went back to the first watch they made 26 years ago and relaunched it. Not a re-edition, more like an improved watch. It’s called the 102. It’s kind of a return to the source. Something a new generation of collectors may not be familiar with, and it’s cheap for an Urwerk: 25 grand. I ordered it. That’s basically what I saw that I liked.”

Paul Altieri, Founder and CEO of Bob’s Watches

Rolex Yacht-Master in Titanium
Rolex Yacht-Master in Titanium

“I think Rolex did a heck of a job. The titanium Yacht-Master was a showstopper. There’s going to be a 20-year waiting list to get one of those. I’m joking, but who knows how long it will take to get your hands on those at retail? We usually see them trickle in in late summer, but that one might take a little longer.

“Always a focus for us is what gets discontinued as opposed to what they launch. Rolex discontinued the Milgauss. It’s been around since the 1950s. That puts a little frenzy in the marketplace because you can’t get them anywhere. Secondhand prices typically jump 10 to 20 percent. And also the Daytona. They didn’t change it much—it’s hard to mess with perfection—but they retired the 116500 and there’s a lot of talk about that.

Rolex Day-Date 36 Puzzle
Rolex Day-Date 36 Puzzle

“There’s a lot of excitement around the Celebration dial, the Puzzle dial. Why would Rolex come out with these fancy-colored dials? The gold GMT—I don’t want to say it’s a bore, but the others are too interesting. Even the Perpetual 1908 is a handsome watch. The skeleton back on the Daytona, a lot of people are talking about that.”

 

Gary Getz, Northern California-based collector

“The sleeper watch that I liked was the Parmigiani Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante. It’s a usable complication and it’s easy to operate. I thought it was super, super clever. That was for me a real hit. And a watch I would potentially buy with my own money.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

“I did also very much like the Lange Odysseus chronograph, a more mainstream choice. Like the original Odysseus, it’s obviously a Lange, and also, it’s an Odysseus. They could have taken the movement and slapped it into a sport case, but they kept the day date on the left and right of the dial and added a different kind of chronograph on top of it. It’s a bigger watch so it’s thicker but they also made it a bit wider so the proportions are still very good and it looks good on the wrist. The black dial is very much to my taste.

“The Petermann-Bédat rattrapante chronograph is just fantastic, and they’re really good guys. They started together at Lange before they went off on their own. And the watch is much better than the renderings. I have their first watch. I’m a fan.

Sylvain Pinaud Origine
Sylvain Pinaud Origine

“Sylvain Pinaud’s watch, the Origine, is much more beautiful in person. He won the innovation prize at the GPHG last fall. I almost bought it on the spot.

“In terms of surprises, I was somewhat surprised at the general spirit of optimism at the show. The world’s going to hell, there are wars and the stock market is down, but I talked to a number of dealers, brands and makers, and business seems to be pretty good. Outside the show, the emergence of all these young makers doing spectacular work. This will absolutely be seen as a golden age of watchmaking and we saw that.”

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Omega Just Unveiled 9 Watches in Its New Constellation Observatory Collection

The line-up shows up a bevy of metals and colours, too, as well as two new calibres.

By Nicole Hoey 31/03/2026

Omega’s latest watch is in a universe of its own.

The Swiss watchmaker just unveiled its new Constellation Observatory Collection today, the next step in its Constellation lineage and the first two-hand hour and minute timepieces to ever earn Master Chronometer certification. And if you were paying attention to any of the dazzling watches spotted at the Oscars this year, you would’ve caught a glimpse of the new line already: Sinners star Delroy Lindo rocked one of the models on the Academy Awards red carpet, giving us a pre-release preview of the collection.

Developed at Omega’s new Laboratoire de Précision (its chronometer testing lab open to all brands), the collection houses a set of nine 39.4 mm watches. The watches underwent 25 days of scrutiny there, analysed via a new acoustic testing method that recorded every sound emitted from the timepiece to track irregularities, temperature sensitivities, and more in the name of all things precision. (Details such as water resistance and power reserve are also thoroughly examined.) This meticulous process is all in the name of snagging that Master Chronometer label, meaning that the timepiece is highly accurate and surpasses the threshold for ultra-high performance. The Constellation Observatory Collection has now changed the game, though, thanks to its lack of a seconds hand.

A watch from the Constellation Observatory Collection, with the Observatory dome on display. Omega

“Until now, precision certification has required a seconds hand,” Raynald Aeschlimann, president and CEO of OMEGA, said in a press statement. “The development of a new acoustic testing methodology has made that requirement obsolete. It is this breakthrough that has enabled us to present the Constellation Observatory, the first two-hand watch to achieve Master Chronometer certification.”

In addition to notching its place in history, the collection also debuted a new pair of movements: the Calibre 8915 and the Calibre 8914, each perched on a skeletonised rotor base. The former’s Grand Luxe iteration will appear on the 950 Platinum-Gold model in the collection, which offers up that base in 18-karat Sedna Gold alongside a Constellation medallion in 18-karat white gold with an Observatory dome done in white opal enamel surrounded by stars. The second Calibre 8915, the Luxe, will find its home on the other precious-metal models in the line, either made with the brand’s 18-karat Sedna, Moonshine, or Canopus gold seen across the case, the hand-guilloché dial, and, of course, the movement itself. (Lindo chose to rock the Moonshine Gold on Moonshine Gold iteration, priced at approximately $86,000, for Sinners‘s big night at the Oscars.) As for the Calibre 8914, it can be found in the collection’s four steel models.

 

Omega Constellation Observatory Collection
A look at a gold case-back from the collection. Omega

Each model is a callback to myriad design features on past Omega models. That two-hand dial, for one, comes from the 1948 Centenary (the brand’s first chronometer-certified automatic wristwatch), while the pie-pan dial (seen in various blue, green, and golden hues throughout the line) and that Constellation medallion caseback both appear on watches from 1952. The star adorning the space above 6 o’clock also harks back to 1950s timepieces from Omega. And to finish off the look, you can opt for alligator straps in a variety of colours, or perhaps a gold iteration to match the precious-metal models; the brick-like pattern on the 18-karat Moonshine bracelet was also inspired by Omega watches from the ’50s.

We’ll have to keep our eyes peeled for any other Constellation Observatory timepieces (or any other unreleased models from the brand) at the rest of the star-studded events headed our way this year—perhaps the Met Gala?

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Inside Loro Piana’s First Sydney Boutique

A first Australian address brings the Italian house’s textile-led approach to retail full circle.

By Horacio Silva 26/03/2026

On the fourth floor of Westfield Sydney, near the Castlereagh and Market Street entrance—in the space formerly occupied by Chanel—Loro Piana has opened its first Australian boutique. It is a significant address change for that corner of the mall, and a meaningful one for the Italian house, which has sourced Australian merino wool for decades but until now had no retail presence here.

The facade is understated—creamy, tactile, more about texture than theatre. Inside, the store unfolds across a single, expansive level divided into distinct men’s and women’s wings. The separation is clear without being heavy-handed: womenswear leads from soft accessories and leather goods into ready-to-wear, while menswear occupies its own assured territory, with tailoring and outerwear given proper breathing room. Footwear (supple loafers, luxurious slides, pared-back sneakers) is particularly strong, and the sunglasses are a quiet standout: mineral-toned frames with a disciplined elegance that feels entirely of the house.

That same restraint carries into the interiors, where the surfaces do much of the talking. Walls are wrapped in the company’s own linen and cashmere; carpets are custom, dense underfoot, softening the acoustics and the pace. Oak and carabottino wood add warmth without fuss; marble accents introduce a cool counterpoint. The effect is a composed space calibrated around material, proportion and restraint.

The Spring 2026 collection now in store underscores that sensibility. Silhouettes are elongated and fluid; cashmere, silk and featherweight merino move in sandy neutrals, creams and muddied earth tones, with flashes of marigold and pale turquoise breaking the calm. Tailoring is softly structured and projects confidence without aggression. Leather goods arrive in buttery skins that feel almost pre-lived, as though time has already worked its magic.

What distinguishes Loro Piana, particularly in a market that has grown noisier by the season, is its refusal to perform luxury in an obvious register. There are no oversized insignias telegraphing allegiance. Instead, the status is encoded in fibre count, in hand-feel, in how a coat hangs from the shoulder. It assumes the wearer knows and, crucially, does not need to announce it.

Sydney’s luxury landscape has matured in recent years; global houses no longer test the waters but commit to them. Yet Loro Piana’s arrival feels different. It is not trend-driven expansion but material logic. For a country whose sheep stations have long contributed to the house’s fabric story, this boutique reads almost as a thank-you note written in cashmere.

 

Photography: Courtesy of Loro Piana.

 

 

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This Stylish, Water-Resistant Dopp Kit Might Be the Last One You Ever Buy

Patricks’s limited-edition wash bag is designed to keep liquids in and out, so it can come along wherever your travels take you.

By Justin Fenner 11/03/2026

If all you’re going to do is look at it, a leather Dopp kit from a fashion house is a fine choice. But if you take travelling seriously—and do it often, for business, pleasure, or both—such a bag will inevitably end up blemished with droplets of water or stained by errant flecks of toothpaste. Get stuck with a cavalier team of baggage handlers, and it can even get soaked in your favourite fragrance or anti-ageing serum.

But Patricks, the high-performance Australian grooming brand stocked in Harrods and Bergdorf Goodman, has a solution. Its limited-edition bathroom bag, called BB1, is purpose-built to protect everything inside and out. Conceived by industrial designer George Cunningham with brand founder Patrick Kidd, the cuboid design is executed in a water-resistant recycled nylon you can rinse clean. It’s lined with a thin layer of shock-absorbing foam to safeguard your products, but if a bottle somehow gets cracked in transit, the two-way water-resistant zippers and sealed seams (which keep liquids from seeping in or out) ensure that whatever leaks won’t ruin your cashmere. Inside, two dual-sided zippered compartments are ideally sized to fit toothbrushes, razors, and other small essentials.

And though its clean lines and rugged construction make it undeniably masculine, its greatest feature is borrowed from women’s makeup bags. Like the best of these, BB1 unzips to lie flat, giving you unobstructed access to everything inside. Well, you and the 999 other gentlemen who move fast enough to snag one. $289

Courtesy of Patricks

1. Hanging Loop 

The G-hook system isn’t just a stylish handle: You can also use it to hang the bag from a hook or secure it to your carry-on.

2. Two-Way Zipper

The closures are water-resistant in both directions, meaning liquids won’t get in or out.

3. Fold-flat Construction

BB1 opens to 180 degrees, letting you scan its 4.2-litre capacity at a quick glance.

4. Technical-Fabric Shell

The durable recycled-nylon is easy to maintain and woven to survive splashes and leaks from your go-to products.

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You Can Now Place Bets on the Future Prices of Rolex Models

And which models will get discontinued next, thanks to a new collaboration between Kalshi and Bezel.

By Nicole Hoey 11/03/2026

You can bet on pretty much anything these days, from when Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce will get married to who will be the next James Bond—and now that includes the Rollies on your wrist, or on your wishlist.

Prediction market platform Kalshi, regulated in the U.S., and luxe watch marketplace Bezel have teamed up on a new platform called Watch Futures that allows users to splash down cash on where they think the prices of a particular luxe timepiece are going, whether that’s a Rolex Submariner or a coveted Patek Philippe, Time & Tide reported.

You can also place a wager on which models might be discontinued, as well as any future launches from the top watchmakers on the new platform; with Watches and Wonders coming up, it’s certainly a well-timed launch that could see a lot of activity as a slew of new releases are announced at the event.

Watch Futures is all based on Beztimate, Bezel’s system (once used only internally) to help it accurately calculate the market price of a timepiece. It draws data from real-time transactions, live bids, verified sales, and other market offers to spawn its own series of independent valuation models to establish a watch’s value. From there, it’s up to bettors to place their wagers, and then the platform will showcase any price fluctuations or other updates as time goes on.

This new platform could have some pretty large implications for the watch industry.  As any horological savant would know, the internet and collectors alike are constantly chattering about which models are on the way out or when a certain timepiece of the moment’s time in the limelight will fade, of course, having a large impact on the prices of said model. And now, a Watch Futures user can have a direct stake in where a model is headed—and if they own said timepiece, it can be a protection from dwindling values on the marketplace, say, if a user places a bet on their model losing value and that actually comes to fruition.

To see Watch Futures in real time (and scope out how some pieces in your collection are faring), you can use the Kalshi app or its website.

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Mauve on Up

Brisbane boutique stay Miss Midgley’s offers a viscerally human experience—especially if you dig pink.

By Horacio Silva 17/12/2025

On a sun-bleached corner of Brisbane’s New Farm, where the scent of frangipani mingles with the clink of coffee cups, stands a building that has lived more lives than most people. Once a premier’s residence, an orphanage, a hospital and a private school, the 160-year-old stone structure now finds itself reborn as Miss Midgley’s—a boutique stay that teaches a masterclass in how to make heritage feel modern.

Designed and run by architect-mother-daughter duo Lisa and Isabella White, Miss Midgley’s captures the cultural confidence of a city in bloom. Nowhere is that new confidence more visible than along James Street—the leafy, slow-burn heart of the city’s fashion and dining scene—where Miss Midgley’s sits quietly at the edge, its shell-pink façade glowing in the subtropical light.

Built of Brisbane’s rare volcanic tuff, the building’s soft mauves and pinks are more than aesthetic; they are its identity. Locals still remember its 1950s incarnation as the Pink Flats, and the Whites have honoured that legacy with a contemporary blush-toned exterior, chosen to harmonise with the stone’s peachy undertones. Inside, those hues continue in dusty terracottas, russets and the faint shimmer of brass tapware. “Design can’t afford to be for the sake of fashion,” Isabella White has said. “It has to respond to what’s in front of you.”

That sentiment is tangible in every corner. Five apartments, each with their own idiosyncratic floor plan, occupy the building. Ceilings bloom with heritage plasterwork, 19th-century wallpaper fragments have been preserved in the kitchens, and tiny hand-painted notes left by the architects point out original quirks: a misaligned beam here, a hidden archway there. It’s a kind of adult treasure hunt for design lovers, where discovery feels personal and unforced.

Even the picket fence, a heritage requirement, has been reimagined in corten steel—a sly nod to regulation turned into sculpture. It’s this blend of reverence and rebellion that gives Miss Midgley’s its edge: heritage without starch, nostalgia without sentimentality.

True to Brisbane’s easy elegance, luxury here is measured not in marble or minibar but in proportion, privacy, and personality. Each apartment—from the Drawing Room and the Assembly Hall to the Principal’s Office—is a self-contained sanctuary with its own kitchen, large bathroom and outdoor space. The ground-floor units open onto leafy courtyards and welcome small dogs; upstairs, the larger suites spill onto verandahs shaded by jacarandas.

At the heart of the property lies a solar-heated pool hemmed with tropical greenery and fringed umbrellas—more mid-century Palm Springs than colonial Brisbane. Around it, guests share a petite laundry, a communal library and that rarest of urban luxuries: a car park per apartment. The atmosphere is quietly collegiate—a handful of travellers who might nod to each other on the stairs but otherwise inhabit their own creative bubbles.

The hotel’s namesake, Annie Midgley, lends the project both its name and its spirit. An ambidextrous artist and teacher, she famously instructed two students at once, writing with both hands simultaneously—a fitting metaphor for the dual vision the Whites bring to the building: one hand rooted in history, the other sketching toward the future. “Not famous, yet known,” goes the property’s understated tagline—and indeed, Miss Midgley’s has quietly become that most desirable of addresses: the one whispered about by people who know.

Sustainability isn’t an accessory here; it’s structural. The adaptive reuse of the heritage building is its boldest environmental act. Solar panels power the property; an electric heat pump warms the pool; recycled decking and tiles frame the courtyard. The metre-thick tuff walls regulate temperature naturally, and the amenities follow suit—refillable bath products, biodegradable pods, Seljak blankets spun from textile off-cuts, and compendiums wrapped in Australian-made kangaroo leather. It’s slow luxury in the truest sense.

In a world of carbon-copy hotels, Miss Midgley’s feels deeply human—a place where history isn’t curated behind glass but lives in the warmth of stone and the flicker of afternoon light. The lesson it offers is simple and resonant: that the most elegant modernity often comes not from reinvention, but from listening to what’s already there.

 

 Miss Midgley’s

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