Hublot’s Latest Pays Tribute To An Extreme Form Of Tattooing

The all-black model is the work of Swiss tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi.

By Victoria Gomelsky 30/09/2020

When Hublot came out with its first all-black watch in 2006—bearing a black dial, black indexes, black case and black bezel—the brand not-so-subtly suggested that telling the time wasn’t the point.

“Everybody said, ‘Are you crazy? You don’t see the time,’” recalled Jean-Claude Biver, the former CEO of Hublot, regarded as one of the Swiss watch industry’s greatest marketers. “But you look at your phone to see the time, and you look at your watch like a piece of art.”

That comment applies two-fold to Hublot’s latest timepiece, the new Big Bang Unico Sang Bleu II All Black, the result of an artistic collaboration with the Swiss tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi and his creative agency, Sang Bleu.

Maxime Pleschia-Buchi

Maxime Plescia-Buchi Omar Vega

Designed as a horological ode to blackout tattooing, the practice of inking solid black tattoos across large swaths of the body, the 45mm watch, fashioned from black ceramic and black PVD-coated titanium, is superimposed with hexagons, diamonds and triangles. The watch’s polished and satin-finished surfaces have been carved, chiselled, angled and faceted, reflecting light that forms a play of polygons across the case.

Big Bang Unico Sang Bleu II All Black

“When we created the first All Black watch in 2006 along with its concept of ‘invisible visibility,’ we dared to go beyond its primary function—timekeeping—to showcase it as a work of art which could uphold and affirm a state of mind,” Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe said in a statement. “In Maxime’s work, we find exactly the same approach of going beyond the primary meaning of things. The art of blackout tattooing is already a highly sophisticated form of the art reserved for a select few; it is the ultimate in tattooing and both this type of tattooing and the timepiece which it inspired go beyond their primary meaning or purpose.”

The piece, which comes on a black rubber strap, retails for $38,000. hublot.com

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SpaceX’s Starship Could Launch Its Next Test Flight in Two Weeks

Elon Musk’s company is moving swiftly after a successful launch about a month ago.

By Tori Latham 12/11/2024

SpaceX is moving ahead quickly with its Starship rocket.

Elon Musk’s space-exploration company announced on Wednesday that the next Starship test flight could take place as soon as two weeks from now, Wired reported. That’s just about a month after the previous test flight, in which SpaceX successfully caught the Starship booster on its launchpad.

The sixth test flight could happen as early as November 18, and it’ll include a few changes from the most recent Starship flight, the publication noted. While the trajectory will be mostly the same, the SpaceX team is including updates to the hardware and the software in response to what they learned from the prior flight. There will be extra redundancy added to the booster propulsion systems, better structural strength at key areas, and a shorter timeline for offloading propellants from the booster following its catch, among other improvements.

Notably, the next test will include the relighting of one engine during the flight, Wired wrote. This is integral to Starship’s development, and it will eventually allow the rocket to make a controlled reentry into Earth’s atmosphere after orbital missions. Moving forward, it will also let Starship carry out commercial missions and could help with the pathway toward launches of Starlink, SpaceX satellites that will provide internet capability.

Another key change for the sixth test flight is that SpaceX is aiming for a late-afternoon launch. All previous flights have taken off around dawn from Texas, but changing the timing means that Starship could reenter into the Indian Ocean during daylight hours. Once the sixth flight takes off, it’ll be the last launch of the initial version of the vehicle, Wired added, before the next generation Starship takes its place.

SpaceX has been carrying out test flights of the Starship rocket since April 2023—with varied results. In that first launch, the rocket exploded just minutes after taking off, although Musk deemed it a success, with the SpaceX team learning from those initial difficulties. Over the past year and half, they’ve made a number of changes that resulted in the breakthrough that occurred just last month.

Now it seems like Starship development is really ramping up, and we may get even more launches in quick succession if this next flight goes well. Eventually, we could be seeing quite a bit of the Starship rocket.

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How the Porsche 911 Turbo Became a Performance Legend

Once meaning merely a forced-induction engine, turbo came to signify so much more

By Will Sabel Courtney 13/11/2024

The turbocharger is, at its core, an elegant piece of engineering. Two interconnected fans: one is spun by the force of an engine’s exhaust flowing over it, a motion that is then transferred to the second fan to make it spin, compressing the air and helping it generate more power. It’s been around for more than a century — found first in planes, ships, and trains, then working its way to trucks and passenger vehicles. These days, they’re ubiquitous in automotive lineups, their ability to provide more power from a smaller package a key tool in gaming government fleet efficiency mandates.

But only one car can claim to be the trendsetter that made “turbo” a household name: the Porsche 911 Turbo.

Ever had a coffee maker, vacuum, or hair dryer with a “turbo” function? You can thank Porsche for that. With the 911 Turbo, the brand took a simple mechanical means of boosting an engine and turned it into a synonym for speed and power, signifying performance in any context. Even Porsche does it now; you won’t find a turbocharger on the all-electric Taycan or  Macan EV, but the automaker still uses the T-word to denote the most powerful variants.

To learn the roots of the term’s current common use, however, we have to trace the lineage of Porsche’s turbocharged sports cars back to the first time Zuffenhausen slapped a snail on a 911’s flat-six. This is the history of the Porsche 911 Turbo.

The very first 911 Turbo wasn’t technically even called the 911 Turbo. Instead, it was known as the 930 Turbo — 930 being the designator used at Porsche to describe the model. (Keep in mind, this was back when the 911’s internal code was still just, well, 911.) The brand had been dallying with turbocharged engines for race cars since the 1960s, but in order to push into the series it wanted, it needed to homologate a vehicle for production that the racers could then be based on. So, come 1975, the automaker slapped a turbocharger on the 3.0-litre flat-six used in the sharp-edged Carrera RS 3.0 and dropped it in a 911 to make the 930.

Okay, it was a little more involved than that; engineers also upgraded the brakes, suspension and gearbox to accommodate the extra power — the latter actually a four-speed manual rather than the five-speed of regular 911s, but the added torque compensated for the difference. From the outside, the most notable change was found at the rear, where a massive spoiler dubbed the “whale tail” for its resemblance to a cetacean fluke increased downforce and helped the engine breathe; wider fenders also added panache.

Generally subtle changes, but the results were anything but. The engine’s 256 horsepower for European versions and 234 ponies for American ones wasn’t groundbreaking by today’s standards, but thanks to a delicate curb weight of around 1270 kilogram and a rear-mounted centre of gravity that aided the rear-wheel-drive car’s acceleration run, that first Turbo — or Turbo Carrera, as it was first known in the U.S. — did the 0-96 kph dash in 4.9 seconds, according to Car and Driver’s testing at the time. It was the first of many eye-popping results the Turbo would rack up in that benchmark trial over the generations.

Just as notable as the acceleration was the manner in which it was delivered. The 930’s big KKK turbocharger was notorious for its turbo lag, kicking on like an afterburner between 3000 and 4000 rpm. If that happened in a turn, the car was given to a sudden bout of oversteer; lifting off the throttle under those circumstances (a natural reaction) could make it worse. Add in the short wheelbase, and the Turbo developed a reputation for spinning out of control, leading it to receive the nickname of “Widowmaker.”

A batch of updates came in 1978, when Porsche pumped the engine up to 3.3 litres and made a few other adjustments to push power in European models to 221 kilowatts and U.S. ones to 196. The brakes, suspension and aerodynamics also received in-kind changes; the revised spoiler was dubbed the “tea tray.” By 1980, shifting emissions regulations made it too hard for Porsche to sell the 930 in the U.S. or Japan; by 1986, though, it was back, with power now up to 210 kilowatts and targa-top and convertible versions entering the fray. A new front end also became available for special order: the so-called Flachbau, or “flatnose,” which swapped out the classic round-eyed 911 face for one inspired by the 935 race car and its ever-so-Eighties pop-up headlights.

After 25 years on sale, the original 911 was finally retired in 1989, replaced by a new generation known internally as 964; to the public, it was still known simply as 911. The future of the 911 Turbo, however, had already been revealed by that point under another name. The Porsche 959, unveiled in 1986, was a bleeding-edge piece of automotive tech that turned the Turbo concept up to 11: it packed a compact 2.8-litre twin-turbo flat-six in the back that made an astounding 331 kilowatts horsepower, but routed it to all four wheels. Comfortable enough to drive daily yet swift enough to claim the title of the world’s fastest production car, it was unlike any street-legal machine the world had ever seen.

So when the new 964-generation 911 Turbo debuted in 1990, it would have been reasonable to expect it to follow closely in the 959’s tire tracks. In fact, though, the super-Porsche was so cutting edge, its influence would be more greatly seen in the following generation of Turbo (more on that in a bit). At launch in 1990, the 964 Turbo stuck with the 3.3-litre engine of the final 930 models — hence the car becoming known as the 911 Turbo 3.3 — albeit tweaked to turn out 316 hp. Likewise, its body more closely resembled the 930 than the 959; it still bore a tea tray spoiler out back, for example.

That first version was just a stopgap, however. By the car’s third model year, in 1993, Porsche had pulled together a more powerful motor to slide into the rear-mounted engine compartment, creating the 911 Turbo 3.6. As the name implies, the new motor — which, in naturally aspirated form, had launched with the 964 generation — displaced 3.6 litres and spun up 264 kilowatts. It wasn’t long for the world, lasting only a year, but it stuck around long enough to earn a star turn in the first Bad Boys film.

Porsche had one last card to play with the turbocharged 964 before it faded away. At the end of production, the company sent 93 chassis to its Exclusiv division to have them built into the 911 Turbo 3.6 S, which packed extra power — more boost and other adjustments turned the wick up to 283 kilowatts  — as well as unique air intakes and spoilers. The Flachbau treatment also returned as an option, although the headlights were now exposed. The Turbo 3.6 S was the first time Turbo and S were paired together, but it wouldn’t be the last.

The third-generation 911, known internally as the 993, first hit the streets in 1994 in Carrera form, and it landed with a bang. The tip-to-tail update not only brought a fresh, more streamlined design to the iconic sports car, it also civilised it, revising the suspension to tame some of the car’s more unruly traits, updating the 3.6-litre engine and adding a sixth cog to the manual gearbox.

And, with the arrival of the 993-generation 911 Turbo in 1995, the spirit of the 959 finally made its way to the mainstream sports car. The 3.6-litre flat-six was now twin-turbocharged for improved response, just like the 959; more consequentially, 959-style all-wheel-drive now came standard, helping the Turbo make the most of its 298 kilowatts. As always, flared fenders and a big spoiler in the back visually distinguished it from lesser 911s, but the new rear wing was more organically integrated into the design — less of a whale tail, more of a geologic feature.

The combination of 400 horses and four-wheel grip meant the 993 Turbo could redefine straight-line acceleration for the average driver. In Car and Driver testing, the car blitzed from 0-90 kph in 3.7 seconds — quick today, downright insane almost 30 years ago. As if that weren’t enough, Porsche quickly offered a factory option kit to add even more power, taking the flat-six to 316 kilowatts for the 1996 model year.

Then, as the 993 generation was starting to wind down, Porsche once again decided to spice up the 911 Turbo with a model wearing the S badge. Power was up, of course, to the aforementioned 316 kilowatts — but unlike the old 3.6 Turbo S, the top-shelf 993 Turbo received all the bells and whistles, from extra leather trim to carbon fibre add-ons to unique air intakes for the twin-turbo six. It didn’t make the Turbo much quicker, but it did make it more desirable — even if it meant a 60-percent higher price over the non-S version.

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The St. Regis Just Opened a Luxe New Property in Shanghai. Here’s a Look Inside

The new 192-key hotel is the brand’s 60th location.

By Tori Latham 08/11/2024

The St. Regis is celebrating a massive milestone halfway around the world from where the hotel brand first began.

The company just recently debuted its 60th property—the St. Regis on the Bund, Shanghai. The 192-key hotel is the St. Regis’s second opening in the city, and it combines the brand’s New York glamour with touches that honor Shanghai’s history.

Designed by Norman Foster and Heatherwick Studio, the property features a sleek exterior and an Art Deco–inspired interior, reminiscent of Shanghai in the 1920s. The latter is replete with magnolia motifs, Su embroidery, and more than 70 original artworks. The guest rooms, meanwhile, include 13 suites with residential-style layouts and views of the Huangpu River and the surrounding Bund area. St. Regis’s iconic butler service is, of course, included as well.

As far as amenities go, the hotel emphasises its culinary delights. The St. Regis Brasserie is an all-day affair serving up both Chinese and Western cuisine, while Celestial Court is a high-end Chinese restaurant designed for celebrations and large gatherings. The St. Regis Bar pays homage to the chain’s New York roots, serving up the brand’s signature Bloody Mary, as well as drinks like the Bund Snapper, with Shanghai’s five spices, zaolu rice wine vinegar, and osmanthus. And by the end of the year, the property will add the Drawing Room, meant for light meals and refreshments like afternoon tea or an evening Champagne sabrage.

If you’re coming to Shanghai to relax, you need not look much further than the St. Regis Spa, with three private spaces and treatments that blend modern skin care with ancient practices. Or you can fit in a workout whenever you like at the 24-hour fitness centre.

“The opening of the St. Regis on the Bund, Shanghai marks a pivotal moment in the brand’s expansion, as we celebrate the debut of our 60th property globally,” Jenni Benzaquen, the senior vice president and global brand leader of the Ritz-Carlton, St. Regis, and Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, said in a statement. “With this milestone, we continue to offer our discerning guests unparalleled experiences on the Bund, blending the rich cultural heritage of Shanghai with the signature rituals and bespoke service that define St. Regis.”

Given the central location, the well-appointed rooms, and the numerous amenities, it sounds like it may be worth exploring Shanghai—and the St. Regis—for your next trip abroad.

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From Striped Hawaiian Shirts to Colorful Ceramics: 4 Luxe Items You Can Buy at Italian Hotels

A handful of Italy’s most beloved family-owned hotels are morphing into luxury brands of their own. Here, four in-house items worth traveling for. 

By Naomi Rougeau 04/11/2024

Hotel Passalacqua, Lake Como 

These days, it takes more than the finest linens and a Michelin-starred restaurant to take the No. 1 spot on a list of the world’s 50 best hotels, which Hotel Passalacqua did in 2023. The spa is stellar, to be sure, as is the pool house, which was decorated in collaboration with J. J. Martin of La Double J. But to fully embrace the villeggiatura and sense of place, even the tiniest details matter. Case in point: the hotel’s signature brass-fish bottle opener (there are also key chains), which will mentally transport you back to Lake Como every time you reach for a cold one. 

Le Sirenuse, Positano 

The red cliff-top hotel with sweeping views needs little introduction. Its owners, the Sersale family, were early to embrace the branding potential of the beloved property by launching an on-site boutique, Emporio Sirenuse, in 1993. These days, you can find Le Sirenuse’s clothing and swimwear everywhere from Net-a-Porter to Harrod’s, but nothing matches shopping the collection in person. If there’s only room in the suitcase for one thing, snag the brand’s riff on
the Hawaiian shirt in vacation-ready stripes. 

Borgo Santo Pietro, Palazzetto 

At Borgo Santo Pietro in Tuscany, the focus is on the serene landscape. (The spot was once a healing rest stop for medieval pilgrims.) Naturally, there’s an emphasis on farm-to-table cuisine, but more interesting might be the farm-to-spa treatments. Made in-house, the renowned Seed to Skin range draws on local remedies dating back to at least 1129; expect natural ingredients such as butterfat, thermal water, and raw honey. Grab the award-winning Eye Rescue Duo, a secret weapon for maintaining your post-vacation glow. 

Palazzo Avino, Ravello 

A once-private villa built in the 12th century, Palazzo Avino is one of the Amalfi Coast’s most celebrated hotels. When a former art gallery adjacent to Ravello’s beloved “pink palace” came up for sale, hotelier Mariella Avino and her sister Attilia made an offer. Mariella envisioned the new space, now dubbed the Pink Closet, as a spot to promote homegrown talent, partnering with the Camera Nazionale della Moda in order to provide a platform for emerging designers. We like the colorful, locally made ceramics—perfect for alfresco entertaining.

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Electric Air Taxis Are One Step Closer to Hitting the Skies

Electric aircraft are the darlings at this week’s annual NBAA business aviation conference in Las Vegas. Yesterday, the FAA signed a milestone rule that allows eVTOLs to move into aviation’s mainstream.

By Daniel Cote 08/11/2024

Just consider the increasing velocity of technological innovation and change and how it has shaped our lives in the last 20 years, says noted astrophysicist, futurist, and author Neil deGrasse Tyson in kicking off the 2024 NBAABusiness Aviation Convention & Exhibition (NBAA-BACE) in Las Vegas.

Organizers expect about 19,000 attendees this year visiting 8,000 exhibitors between the Las Vegas Convention Center and Henderson airport, the static display with business aircraft on display.

It was an auspicious start for the Advanced Air Mobility (AAM) sector, comprised of the new generation of electric air-taxi makers such as Joby Aviation, Archer, and Lilium. These firms have had limited displays at past NBAA shows, but yesterday was more like a formal coming-of-age party for the fledgling sector.

During the keynote, Bonnie Simi—pilot, former Olympic athlete, and Joby Aviation’s president of operations—interviewed Tyson about the pace of technology as well as the future of the Advanced Air Mobility movement (AAM), which includes electric air taxis.

Tyson told the packed hall that history reminds us that innovations come from places you don’t often expect. Take the iPhone, he said. Apple didn’t invent GPS, music, or cellular communications, but the company assembled the technologies to create one of the most transformative devices in the history of inventions, the astrophysicist explained.

Aviation is entering a similar innovative period with advanced air mobility, efficiency, and sustainability, added NBAA president and CEO Ed Bolen, who also addressed the audience during the keynote. Bolen discussed the pace of aviation advancement with FAA’s administrator Michael Whitaker, who was on hand to sign a Special Federal Aviation Regulation (SFAR) establishing the final rule for a regulatory framework for the new category of eVTOL (electric vertical takeoff and landing) aircraft.

“It is an extraordinary moment in history,” Whitaker said, noting that AAM represents an entirely new aircraft category, typically involving a combination of rotor and fixed-wing aircraft.

The FAA also recognizes that you can’t certify an aircraft and do not have a way to operate it as intended, Whitaker added. This final rule creates the blueprint for integrating this technology and modeling an ecosystem for operations. “I don’t know the last time we went from an idea to a final rule in 16 months,” said Whitaker, who has had a long history working with both the FAA and aviation, including a stint at eVTOL maker Supernal. “That is light speed for rulemaking.”

The final rule, he explained, creates a flexible climate for companies to train pilots, operate these aircraft, and safely integrate new technology.

AAM represents a “seminal moment” in aviation to help achieve net zero by 2050, Bolen says. “Over the last 40 years, the industry has been able to shrink its environmental footprint by 40 percent,” he added. “Every aircraft is 25 to 30 percent more efficient than its replacement aircraft. The industry has invested significantly in developing sustainable aviation fuels and advancements with electric, hydrogen, and hybrid propulsion systems.

One of the regulatory challenges, Whitaker added, is that the FAA doesn’t yet know how the business model will evolve. “Will this require departures every three minutes to the airport or primarily serve rural communities?” he asked, citing two possible futures for electric aircraft. “We need the regulatory flexibility to allow AAM businesses to succeed and do so safely.”

The topic was explored during a seminar on how advanced air mobility infrastructure will develop yesterday. Beta CEO Kyle Clarke, which makes eVTOLs, said his firm had built charging stations in airports across different states, with the goal of creating 150 charging facilities across the country.

Signature Aviation CEO Tony Lefebvre envisions significantly more infrastructure will be needed, so “we have the proper infrastructure to be able to support 600, 700, 800 locations—or coming up with alternatives, so that the [aircraft] can continue to fly out of one location and then reposition for charging,” he said, adding that development could happen at “an accelerated pace.”

From the future, NBAA looked to the past, recognizing Laurent and Pierre Beaudoin, the father-and-son team who have led Bombardier for more than 60 years with NBAA’s Meritorious Service to Aviation Award.

Since its beginnings in rural Quebec making snowmobiles, Bombardier has grown into an $8 billion global leader in business aviation. In 1966, Laurent became company president and took the the brand public in 1969. He diversified beyond snowmobiles by purchasing a train manufacturer in 1970, and purchased Canadair in 1986, which was the leading manufacturer of Challenger wide-body business jets, to become part of the aviation industry.

“Canadair was a big entrée into aviation, but we were fortunate to have the engineering staff in place,” Laurent told Robb Report. “The only thing they lacked was an entrepreneurial spirit and we were able to introduce that into the company.” Through his career, he also focused heavily on product design. “That’s always been important to me,” Laurent says. “Beyond it functioning, why shouldn’t it look attractive? Our aircraft look fast, even when they are sitting on a runway, they look like they want to go.”

In 2020, Bombardier sold off its railway business, becoming solely a business jet manufacturer, with multiple aircraft types across different categories, including its new flagship aircraft, the ultra-long-range Global 8000. “We still see a lot of upside for our company in this industry,” said Pierre. “The service business is one—there are a lot of aging aircraft out there, and we are also moving into military applications with our business jets. We see a very bright future there.”

The company remains focused on future aircraft. It has developed a blended-wing EcoJet Research Project to study and improve aerodynamics and propulsion efficiencies to reduce business jet emissions by up to 50 percent. “There are a lot of things being said about sustainability that are not always fact based,” said Laurent. “The EcoJet Project is an example of how we are going to study the things we can do to make a huge impact to reach that goal.”

NBAA-BACE offers dozens of seminars and workshops on all aspects of business aviation. It will run through October 24.

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