How H. Moser & Cie Created The Striking Blue Dial On Its Latest Watch
The unique enamelled dial sets the stage for a minimalist masterpiece.
Moser & Cie is one of those brands that consistently manages to combine understatement with a punch of jolting extroversion. The Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aqua Blue contrasts a minimalist presentation of minute repeater hammers and a tourbillon escapement against a can’t-miss-it background of electric aqua blue.
In keeping with its signature style of presenting traditional complications in a style of modern understatement, Moser extracts only the quintessence of the hammers and gongs of the minute repeater and the cage of the tourbillon, leaving everything else, including the gear train, out of the picture. Nor are there numerals, a logo or a Swiss-made marque. The hammers and carriage thus stand out as if framed on a gallery wall, and the wall in this case is a striking textured blue that nearly steals the show. Moser calls it Aqua Blue fumé, and it’s created by applying layers and layers of grand feu enamel over a gold base that has been given a hammered-like finish—a take on flinqué enamel except that, instead of being guilloched, is given a more freeform, textured finish that departs from traditional enamel backgrounds. Four colour pigments are applied to create an ombré effect. It takes an hour for the enameler to complete one dial, applying the pigments one by one in a way that makes them oxidize and blend together when heated in the furnace. The dial is fired 12 times altogether, and each one is unique. Moser perfected the complex technique on the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept, with a bright green dial, introduced earlier this year.
Compared to Moser’s previous Endeavour Tourbillon Minute Repeater from 2019, which uses Moser calibre HMC 903, this version, which uses the brand new calibre HMC 904, is slimmed down slightly. The calibre size remains the same, but the case, which comes in rose gold or titanium, is slightly smaller at 40mm by 13.5mm and is narrow enough to fit comfortably on most wrists. The skeletonization – you can see the decorated movement through the open caseback – accounts for the slightly smaller proportions, despite having to widen the middle case to allow enough space to create a soundbox. The previous version, with HMC 903, measured 14mm thick, with a 43mm-wide case.
The movement, decorated with double Moser stripes on the plate and bridges and other finishes, can be seen through the caseback. It has a 90-hour power reserve. This piece will be reserved for VIP pockets only—limited to 20 pieces, each retails for $524,000.
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