Audemars Piguet’s Slew Of New Royal Oak Watches

The new collections celebrate the model’s 50th anniversary.

By Paige Reddinger, Carol Besler 27/01/2022

It’s going to be a massive year for Audemars Piguet as it rolls out the red carpet for its legendary Royal Oak collection, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary. The Gérald Genta-designed watch, first released in 1972, has become so iconic for the brand that some would argue it is the brand despite recent attempts to create new collections like Code 11.59. The Royal Oak is hotter than ever and Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henri Bennahmias has big plans to keep it that way. At a digital press conference on Tuesday to reveal the much anticipated 2022 Royal Oak models, the head honcho not only dropped new and improved watches but also a few rather interesting tidbits that chart the company’s plans for the future.

So, before we jump in with the big news about the “Jumbo” Ref. 16202, here are a few highlights from both Bennahmias and Michael Friedman, Audemars Piguet’s head of complications:

  • In 2021, the company sold 45,000 watches and raked in a revenue of almost $1.6 billion. The company has 2,500 employees. In 2022, AP will up its output to 50,000 timepieces.
  • But the bigger headline is that the company plans to set aside a “big chunk” of Royal Oaks for newcomers to the brand. So, how do first-timers distinguish themselves from the pack to land a piece from this allotment? “The right way to do it is actually very simple: create and develop a relationship with us,” says Bennahmias, making it sound laughably simple. “When you don’t know anyone you have to get known by our people and, eventually things happen.”
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Ref. 16202 50th Anniversary Caseback

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 16202 50th Anniversary Caseback Audemars Piguet

 

  • All of the Royal Oak models for 2022, with the exception of existing perpetual calendars, will come with a special oscillating mass, visible through the caseback with a cut-out that says “50 Years.” After December 31, 2022, the models will come with a standard oscillating mass.
  • Royal Oak Concept watches will be launched later in 2022, but 2023 is when the company says it will launch something “very, very new in the concept case.”
  • Future research and development will be focused on ergonomics, or making the watches more comfortable on the wrist, notably with a potential focus on thinness. ” We have to simplify and we have to amplify the readability on the watches and the ergonomy on the wrist and the way it feels and the way it is balanced,” says Bennahmias. “All of our work will be done in that direction, which will lead us to new mechanisms, thinner ones, potentially, we’ll see, and especially materials.” That could mean that AP has plans to seriously compete in the ongoing ultra-thin race with Bulgari and Piaget.
  • “Little touchpoints [have been updated] throughout the pieces and little elements,” says Friedman. But [with the intention of] never ever touching the integrity of the original design. It’s had small evolutions over the last 50 years, small touches are what we’ve done to put attention on the men and women that create them and how it feels and looks on the wrist.”

If it’s not broke, don’t fix it! So, what you will see here mostly looks like the Royal Oaks you have seen before except with small design tweaks, save for the Ref. 16202 below. And for those looking to begin a relationship with Audemars Piguet, here’s a pro tip: Bennahmias says he is flying out today to head to New York and then Los Angeles to make sure “allocations are done the right way,” which means if you can spot him in a boutique, you can start your campaign for a Royal Oak from the top.

Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 16202

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Ref. 16202

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Ref. 16202 Audemars Piguet

The Royal Oak Ref. 15202 is replaced by the new Ref. 16202. The next-gen 39mm “Jumbo” Extra-Thin now houses a new self-winding extra-thin Calibre 7121. It is the first time since 1972, that this model has a new self-winding hour, minute and date movement, replacing the Calibre 2121. At its debut, the retired movement was the thinnest automatic movement (3.05mm) with central rotor and date indication. The new iteration is slightly larger, measuring 3.2 mm, and is newly equipped with a rapid date-corrector. It now has a larger barrel with more power for more precise timekeeping over a longer period of time in 55 hours of power reserve. Five years in development, it now has bidirectional winding, a balance wheel fit with inertia blocks to avoid unnecessary friction and comes with a patented extra-thin low-energy date-setting mechanism. Plus, it has been finished to high-horology standards with Côtes de GenèveTraits Tirés and circular graining finishes visible through the caseback.

There are four models in stainless steel, 18-carat pink gold, yellow gold and platinum. Two new smoked Petite Tapisserie dials have been added in the pink-gold and yellow-gold models. They are both achieved through a galvanic bath process and involve spraying colored varnish on the rotating dial’s periphery. The pink-gold version has contrasting smoked gray hues, while the yellow-gold dial comes in striking smoked yellow-gold tones. The platinum version will be exclusively sold through the company’s AP Houses.

Price: Stainless steel, approx. $46,640 ; 18-carat pink gold, approx. $99,000 ; yellow gold, approx. $99,000; platinum, upon request

Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204 Diode SA – Denis Hayoun

Also sporting a calibre, is the 39 mm “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked Ref. 16204 available in stainless steel or 18-carat pink gold. It houses the new selfwinding extra-thin openworked movement, Calibre 7124, a derivative of the Calibre 7121 above. Measuring just 2.7 mm, as opposed to its Calibre 5122 predecessor at 3.05 mm, it is similar to the 7121 but has an openworked architecture with the mainplate and bridge cut via CNC machining before being perfected by electric discharge machining, which allows the company to remove material with extreme precision to achieve its cut-out look. There are 324 hand-polished V angles that can be viewed on the dial and caseback.

The case and bracelet on both models have are stain-brushed and polished in an alternating fashion right down to the folding clasp. The openworked dial of the pink-gold model comes with slate grey bridges and a contrasting light grey barrel at 11 o’clock, while the stainless-steel version has a rhodium-toned movement.

Price: Stainless steel, approx. $127,000; 18-carat pink gold, upon request

Royal Oak 34mm Selfwinding Black Ceramic

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm Selfwinding Black Ceramic

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm Selfwinding Black Ceramic Audemars Piguet

You might think you are looking at the same black ceramic Royal Oak that was released just last year, but the company has already given it a facelift. Notice the brand logo has been spelled out on the new model, replacing the “AP” on the original (see below). The signature is now crafted in 24-carat pink gold and realized through a chemical process similar to 3D printing. The letters are connected with links the size of a hair and placed on the dial by hand with tiny legs, invisible to the eye, to secure them in place. The numerals in the date window have been changed to gold instead of white, the pins that connect the links in the bracelet are no longer visible on the side but directly fit into the studs and the size and length of the hour markers have been adjusted for better visibility.

The details are incredibly subtle, but they do make a difference. And that may ruffle the feathers of clients who already jumped to get their hands on this ultra-hot model.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm Audemars Piguet

Price: approx. $69,700

Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Audemars Piguet

Three new 41mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying tourbillons, in 18-carat pink gold, stainless steel and titanium, following models in this reference that were introduced last year. They feature the same Caliber 2950 movement combining a flying tourbillon with a central rotor, but the latest iterations now come with cases and bracelets with wider bevels with the first links decreased in thickness for an easier wear on the wrist. The caseback has also been slightly embedded in the case middle to also offer a more comfortable fit.

On the dial side, the dimensions of the hour markers and hands have been improved and the Audemars Piguet signature, like the black ceramic model, has been applied in 24-carat gold. New tones have been added to the Grande Tapisserie dial, executed in a traditionally horizontal fashion versus the sunray arrangement of previous models, in smoked blue to compliment the stainless-steel and 18-carat pink-gold models, while the titanium reference stands apart in a straight sandblasted blue hue without the traditional

motif. The latter also has a white circle to highlight the minute track.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Caseback

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Caseback Audemars Piguet

Finally, the Côtes de Genève finishing on the movement, visible through the caseback, has been ever so slightly tweaked to be crafted horizontally instead of in a sunray pattern to mimic the linear Tapisserie motif on the dial.

Price: Upon request

Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked Audemars Piguet

The pièce de résistance in the 50th-anniversary collection is the 41mm openworked version of the Flying Tourbillon. The calibre 2950 was only just introduced, and yet we are already seeing an openworked version. “The new Selfwinding Tourbillon Openworked—the architecture of this movement is unlike anything I’ve seen before, we’ve seen before and unlike anything we’ve created before,” says Friedman.  “The bridges have been finished both vertically and horizontally, creating a beautiful 3D effect.” Audemars Piguet launched an openworked tourbillon for its 40th anniversary in 2012, so the company felt it needed to up the ante for the Royal Oak’s half-a-century milestone. “It’s very much openworking for the 21st century,” says Friedman. “I’m blown away by the watch. The watch collector in me, the fan boy in me, I just salivate when I look at that watch.”

So, how many will be produced? Bennahmias says they will make just 125 pieces this year and will follow with 80 pieces in 2023 and 45 in 2024. This year’s models, of course, will come with the 50th-anniversary rotor. Either way, very few clients will get their hands on one.

Price: Upon Request

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph Watches

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph Watches

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph Watches Audemars Piguet

There are 28 variations on standard 37 mm Royal Oaks and 38 and 41mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs combined. Additional models in 41 and 34 mm will be available in the second half of 2022. Here is what’s new: bevels on the top and bottom have been enlarged, the caseback has been slightly integrated into the case middle for a better wear, the integrated bracelet’s first four links are not trapezoidal-shaped instead of parallel, links are thinner and lighter (this was already introduced on gold references a few years ago but now applies to stainless-steel and titanium pieces), the minute track is now printed directly onto the Tapisserie dial and like other models the hour markers and hands are refined according to different dial diameters and the AP logo is replaced by a printed “Audemars Piguet” at 12 o’clock.

And while the dial colors come in everything from forest green to light gray, the collection now includes a night blue color or “Blue Nuit” and a baby blue dubbed Cloud 50 or “Nuage 50” in Petite Tapisserie or Grande Tapisserie patterns.

Royal Oak Offshore 43mm Diamond Pavé

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 mm Diamond Pavé Watches

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 mm Diamond Pavé Watches Audemars Piguet

The Royal Oak Offshore, having been introduced only 30 years ago, is not celebrating a Jubilee – so no special rotor design – but it is getting dressed up in its older brother’s honor. Audemars introduced four new diamond-set models, two of them slathered in round brilliant diamonds that cover the dial, case and, in one model, the bracelet (5.83 carats and 12.53 carats, respectively). The other two have baguette diamonds set into the bezel and case or just the bezel (10.78 carats and 1.45 carats, respectively). All models contain Audemars Piguet’s first integrated chronograph calibre, the 4401, which debuted last year. The diamonds are dramatically juxtaposed next to black coloured chronograph subdials on the round-brilliant versions, lending a brilliant new take on the sporty panda dial, and even the crown and pusher guards are set with diamonds. Consider this full-on sports-watch Glam – chronographs for the red carpet.

Price: Upon request

Whew! That’s all folks…for the first half of 2022 at least.

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Everybody Loves Naomi 

Fashion fans adore her. And so do we. Lucky, then, that a new exhibition is paying homage to four decades of snake-hipped catwalking.

By Joseph Tenni 22/06/2024

Naomi Campbell contains multitudes. Since emerging on the scene in 1986, modelling for British designer Jasper Conran, the statuesque stunner has used the runway for takeoff. She has ventured into all aspects of the culture, from Vogue to Playboy and reality TV. In the business arena, she has dabbled in publishing and the two F&Bs (fragrance and beauty, and food and beverage). Her philanthropic efforts are legion.

Naomi is better known than any of her peers and, aged 54, remains more relevant than ever. As a testament to her pervading influence, a new exhibition, Naomi: In Fashion, is opening at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum. Celebrating her 40 years in the spotlight, the show includes clothes from the model’s closet and some of the designer fashion she has helped to immortalise.

We all know her snake-hipped walk, her glowing skin, her famous paramours, and—yes—her many tantrums and tiaras. But how much do we love her exactly? Let’s count some of the ways. 

1. She Was Born to Be Famous

Many people know Naomi for her appearances in music videos for Michael Jackson’s In the Closet and George Michael’s Freedom! ’90—the latter also featuring fellow supermodels Linda, Cindy and Christy. But Naomi has been in front of the camera since she was a child, and her prolific music-video career predates her modelling. At 8, she appeared in the official video for Bob Marley’s 1978 hit Is This Love. At 13, Culture Club cast her as a tap-dancing teen in I’ll Tumble 4 Ya. It would be another two years before she was discovered by model scout Beth Boldt, while shopping in London’s Covent Garden.

Courtesy Off-White. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

2. She Hits All the Right Notes

As anyone who has ever seen Unzipped, the 1995 cult fashion documentary by Douglas Keeve, Naomi always has a song in her heart. She put her mouth where her money was in 1994 and recorded an album, Babywoman. The cover art featured Naomi, photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth, shaving her legs while sitting on the toilet. Fittingly, the album was canned—despite assistance from contributors like Donna Summer and PM Dawn. 

3. She’s Always Ready for Her Close-Up
Hollywood’s history is full of models who went on to become successful actors. Naomi is not one of them. But not for want of trying. Her turn as a nightclub singer in Vanilla Ice’s 1991 movie Cool as Ice flies under the radar but doesn’t deserve to. Nor does her scene-stealing cameo as a French cheese shopper in The Night We Never Met, alongside Matthew Broderick and Jeanne Tripplehorn. Or her playing a sexy telephone operator in Spike Lee’s Girl 6. Who else has that kind of range? 

4. She Tells It Like It Is

We’d be remiss not to mention her 1994 novel Swan. A roman a clef about a young girl breaking into the modelling industry, flanked by her four besties who are also divas in training heels, it certainly played with genres. A murder-mystery-cum-sexy-romance-cum-vocational-advice page-turner, or something like that, this guilty pleasure was cruelly overlooked and relegated to the annals of bargain bins everywhere. 

5. She’s Got a Mind for Business

Naomi has been vocal over the years about making less money than her white peers and was not going to wait for the industry to catch up. Instead, she has ventured into businesses ranging from her former stake in the Fashion Cafe in New York to her signature fragrances, first released in 1999. What does Naomi smell like? Subtle yet complicated, consisting of top notes of peach, coconut and bergamot with a deep, woody base of cedar and sandalwood—apparently.

6. She Gives Until It Hurts

For a so-called narcissist, Naomi has often put her fame to philanthropic use. She has galvanised black models in fashion with the Black Girls Coalition and has raised money for Africa, Haiti and disaster relief worldwide, including after the Mumbai terrorist attacks. When she was dating the Russian billionaire and Aman Resorts owner Vladislav Doronin, she became committed to saving the tiger. Is there anything this overachiever can’t do?

7. She Can Make Hay From Anything

When she was sentenced to community service following allegations by a former employer that Naomi had attacked her with a mobile phone, the model emerged from her punishment dressed in couture and trailed by a photo crew who were shooting a fashion layout of her for W magazine. And when she was summoned in 2010 to appear in a war crimes trial against former Liberian president Charles Taylor—in relation to an uncut blood diamond he’d allegedly given her—our girl showed up in an Azzedine Alaïa twin-set and wearing a silver “evil eye” necklace, turning the courtroom into a photo opportunity.

8. She’ll Be on Your Side for Evermore
The fashion industry is hardly known for its loyalty or congeniality, but Naomi has maintained decades-long friendships with not only her supermodel sisters like Christy Turlington but also some of the most powerful and difficult players, including John Galliano and Marc Jacobs. That she has remained tight with so many of her friends is not lost on her adoring public. She must be a loyal person and in return, fans everywhere remain loyal to her.

Naomi: In Fashion runs from June 22, 2024, until April 16, 2025, at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London; vam.ac.uk

Courtesy Vivienne Westwood. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

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The Sapphire Dinner 2024 Raises Support for Ocean Conservation

This year’s boldfaced bash raised funds for our critically under-supported national treasures. 

By Horacio Silva 22/06/2024

The big fish of Sydney society came out Thursday night for the third annual Sapphire Dinner to raise much-needed money for ocean conservation. Held in conjunction with the Art Gallery of New South Wales, the boldfaced bash was the first sit-down dinner held at the Tank, a repurposed World War II fuel container that sits beneath the Art Gallery’s new wing. 

Set against a backdrop of immersive ocean-inspired video projections by South Korean digital creators d’strict, and with a dress code that inspired guests to recycle their most fabulous fashions, the zero-waste dinner supports The Sapphire Project’s mission to galvanise the community to take action to protect our oceans and the Great Barrier Reef.

Deep-pocketed VIPs who walked the evening’s blue carpet included  Malcolm and Lucy Turnbull, real estate maven Monika Tu, Penelope Seidler, Anna Marsden (Managing Director of Great Barrier Reef Foundation), Michael and Tina Brand, Andrew Cameron, MCA Chair Lorraine Tarabay, Myer boss Olivia Wirth, benefactors Paris Neilsen and Beau Neilson, and Paul Howes and Olivia Wirth, the power couple known as ‘Paulivia’. 

Retired swimmer Giaan Rooney MC’d the event, hosted by Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie and Ryan Gollan and committee members Ian Thorpe AM, Luke Hepworth, Clare Herschell, Susan Wynne, Brioney Prier, Bianca Rinehart, Doris Ma, Kate Champion, Ellie Aitken, and Chong Chua. 

A troupe of former Australian Ballet dancers and a musical performance by the Fijian-Australian singer and actress Paulini entertained the revellers.   

Among the auctioned items was an original work by Del Kathryn Barton, which raised more than $200,000 in a high-spirited bidding war led by Four Pillars Gin founder Stu Gregor, whose expletive-laden entreaties were suitably salty. 

Nobody minded, given that more than a million dollars were raised to support the criminally underfunded ocean conservation (it’s estimated that only about 2 percent of philanthropy in Australia goes towards the preservation of our precious national treasures), with funds going to support important initiatives such as The Great Barrier Reef Foundation, the University of Sydney’s One Tree Island Research Station, the Australian Museum’s Lizard Island Research Station, the Australian Sea Lion Recovery Foundation and Biopixel Oceans Foundation’s Project Hammerhead

The Sapphire Project Dinner 2024
Clare Herschell, Kate Champion, Bianca Rinehart & Hayley Baillie
The tablescapes at the Sapphire Project Dinner
Ian Thorpe
Adrian and Beck Buchan
Monika Tu
The Sapphire Project Dinnner 2024
Lucy & Malcolm Turnbull
Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie & Ryan Gollan

For further information, visit SapphireProject.com.au

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The 10 Best Omakase in Sydney

Sydney’s best Japanese chef’s-table dining experiences.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 06/06/2024

In Japan, where food is a cultural art form, omakase stands for traditional Japanese foods made with seasonal ingredients. A good omakase meal, prepared with purity and mindfulness, can make an unforgettable imprint on the culinary memory. Yet in a land defined by seasonal traditions, omakase is a relatively new concept.

Omakase originated in Japan in the 1970s as affluent Japanese began to dine more regularly at first-rate sushi counters. Bowing to the expertise of the sushi master, omakase loosely translates to “I’ll leave it to you.” In a setting where money is no object, letting the chef decide was designed as a chic way to take the awkwardness out of ordering.

In Australia where there’s an abundance of fresh seafood, omakase menus have experienced a recent rise in popularity. Today omakase is any series of small dishes served directly by the chef to the diner. Each part of the meal is presented on beautiful ceramics and lacquer wear, with a great —and somewhat— intimidating reverence for elegant details. It’s a chance to see a chef’s knife skills up close and get a feel for their cooking style.

Omakase menus are based on whatever is freshest at the market and can be influenced by the chef’s mood, expertise, and response to the guest. They can be slowly paced like a ceremony—hushed and reverential—but they can also be rowdy, humorous, and personal.
Here we give you 10 of the best to try in Sydney.

Yoshi’s Omakase at Nobu Crown Sydney

Crown Sydney, Level 2/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo. Open: 12–3 pm, 5:30–9:30 pm Phone: 02 8871 7188 Reservations: F&B-SYD-Nobu@crownresorts.com.au; $380 per head (including matched wine and sake). Crownsydney.com.au

Sushi Oe

16/450 Miller St, Cammeray; Tue – Sat. SMS only 0451 9709 84 E: jizakana16@gmail.com Phone: 0426 233 984 $230 per head. jizakana.com.au

Kisuke with Yusuke Morita

50 Llankelly Place, Potts Point; Tuesday – Saturday: 17:30 – 10.45 (closed Sunday/ Monday) $185-200 per head Kisukepottspoint.com

Haco 

102/21 Alberta St, Sydney. Lunch, Friday to Saturday 12 -2:00 pm Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday 5:45 pm – 8:1 5pm (closed Sunday & Mondays) P: 0408 866 285                                     E: haco@hacosydney.com.au; $150 – $210 Hacosydney.com.au

Kuon

Shop 04 2/58 Little Hay St, Sydney, Lunch: Fri-Sun 12:30 pm. Dinner  Tue-Sun 5:15 pm or 7:45 pm sittings.  Reservation via SMS at 0488 688 252; $220 per head @kuon.omakase

Sokyo 

The Darling, Level G, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont. Open dinner Monday to Thursday from 5:45 pm P: 1800 700 700 $300 per head Sokyo.com.au

Kuro

368 Kent St, Sydney; Open Tue – Wed – Thur: 6 pm Fri & Sat: 5:30 pm P: 02 9262 1580, reservations@kurosydney.com $220 per head. Kurosydney.com;

Choji Omakase

Level 2, 228 Victoria Ave, Chatswood —upstairs from Choji Yakiniku. Every Monday to Wednesday at 6.30 pm. One seating per day only. $295 per head. Chojiomakase.com.au

Gold Class Daruma

The Grace Hotel, Level 1/77 York St, Sydney; 12–2:30 pm, 5:30–9.00 pm Phone: (02) 9262 1190 M: 0424 553 611 booking@goldclassdaruma.com.au·$120 – $150 per head Goldclassdaruma.com.au

Besuto

Besuto Omakase, Sydney Place precinct, 3 Underwood Street, Circular Quay. Omakase is available to book for dinner – Tuesday to Saturday. 5:30 pm & 8pm sittings. From $250. Besuto.com.au

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is no soy and wasabi offered during my omakase meal?
Even though sushi and sashimi are being served, the chef is serving each piece of sushi so quickly and directly that the chef is applying the wasabi and soy to the sushi themselves. Watch as they brush the top of the fish with soy and dab a tiny amount of wasabi on the rice, under the fish. You should not need to add extra, and in fact, it can be insulting to the chef to add more. Bathing the bottom of the rice of your sushi in soy sauce is considered bad manners, as it is seen as detracting from the flavour of the fish.

Nobu, Sydney

Can an omakase experience accommodate my dietary needs?
Although there is often little variation once the chef has set the daily menu, some customisation is possible. Advise the restaurant when you book and remind them of allergies or aversions again as you sit down. They will let you know when you book if your allergy is possible for the chef. Japanese menus feature a lot of seafood and dashi so accommodating a no seafood request can be genuinely tricky.

What are the golden rules for chopstick etiquette?
Use your chopstick holder in between eating, rather than putting chopsticks on your plate. Don’t use your chopsticks to gesticulate or point; if offering food to someone to try, never pass food directly from your chopsticks to theirs. Rather place the food onto a small plate and let them pick it up.
Never touch communal or shared food with your chopsticks. The longer, slightly larger chopsticks are like sharing cutlery, never put these in your mouth.

Without a menu, how can I know what I am eating during omakase?
Omakase is often a no-menu situation, and you are expected to try new things. Attending an omakase experience with an open, trusting mind yields the best results.
There are Wagyu and tempura omakase that reflect the chef’s personal predilections and training, but in a standard luxury omakase, the format will include a lot of freshly caught seafood and will usually kick off with a delicate appetiser. This will be followed by a sashimi and sushi course, a savoury egg custard (chawanmushi) with meat and seafood, a cooked or blow-torched market fish, a soup course, and dessert.

Can I talk to the chef during omakase? What is the protocol?
Guests at an omakase experience are welcome to ask questions of the chef; in fact, interacting with the chef is part of the experience. It is considered polite to ask questions or inquire about the food so they can explain.

What is best to pair with omakase  in terms of drinks?
In general, wine and sake are a perfect match for omakase. Aged fish and vinegar have strong umami flavours so depending on which course you enjoy, different wine and sake will pair well. Dry chilled sake is a great choice. Amazing sakes are imported into Australia, so trust the restaurant to advise you and take you on a sake journey at the same time.  If you don’t like sake, drinking chardonnay, a crisp young riesling, or even a dry complex Riesling is also totally acceptable. All three styles help bring out the flavour of the fish. Champagne can also be good. Try a blanc de blancs— 100% chardonnay —for a great way to start the meal. As you progress, remember that sake is good for dishes with a strong taste, such as uni and eel.

Nobu, Sydney

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The Tod’s SS25 Men’s Collection in Milan Was a Showcase of “Artisanal Intelligence”

It was also the debut men’s collection by creative director Matteo Tamburini.

By Josh Bozin 20/06/2024

Earlier this week, Tod’s presented its SS25 men’s collection at the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea (PAC) for Milan Fashion Week, where all eyes were fixed on Matteo Tamburini and his debut menswear collection as Tod’s newest creative director.

Striking “a balance between tradition and modernity”, was the former Bottega Veneta designer’s intention, and indeed his showcase offerered a spotlight on the quality, materials, and detailing that are central to the Tod’s wardrobe.

“The collection is more about subtraction rather than addition, highlighting the very elevated, timeless and relaxed materials,” says Tamburini via a statement.

Tod’s

In line with Tod’s restrained design codes, the garments presented were characterised by timelessness, unmistakable Italian flair, yet a casualness appropriate for everyday wear. Only the best leathers were used in the collection—thanks to the Pashmy project, which Tod’s unveiled in January to champion high-end Italian materials—used in creating garments like the Tod’s Bomber, the Gio Jacket, the Shirt Jacket, the Di Bag sack, as well as footwear staples, like the Tod’s T-Riviera.

Of course, the iconic Gommino driving shoe wasn’t without an update, too: you’ll find a new sabot interpretation, as well as the Bubble Gommino introduced in a new boat model with the T-bar accessory.

“Craftsmanship” was at the forefront of messaging, with chairman and chief executive officer of the Tod’s Group, Diego Della Valle, reiterating the message of honouring artisanal arts in an increasingly digital-first world.”[It’s] important to uphold artisanal intelligence, keeping under control artificial intelligence as it is now developing rapidly and powerfully,” he said via a statement.

“Individuals and artisanal intelligence at the centre, with its traditions and values, will contribute to keep artificial intelligence in check. Our Italian craftsmanship and supply chain can be an example of the combination of tradition and the new speed of artificial intelligence.”

tods.com

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Pitti Uomo’s Best-Dressed Men Cut Through the Noise With Personal Style

From vintage gems to tasteful tailoring, attendees of Florence’s biannual tradeshow brought their best sartorial selves.

By Naomi Rougeau, Lorenzo Sodi 20/06/2024

Whether or not you’re well versed in the ins and outs of Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear tradeshow in Florence that brings together buyers, press—and, naturally, a vast ostentation of peacocks—the chances are that photos from the gathering are still making their way into your newsfeed. You might even smirk at the mention of it. To be sure, you’ll encounter plenty of “overdressing” strolling through the main venues but by and large, great personal style manages to cut through the noise.

Part of what makes the Pitti scene so exciting is that menswear moves relatively slowly. It’s less about seeing something earth shatteringly new but rather gradual shifts and discovering fresh ways to put things together. Menswear regulars such as Alessandro Squarzi, owner of a considerable vintage archive that influences his Milanese boutique Fortela, can be relied upon to provide inspiration on how to make tried and true staples and silhouettes feel modern.

Speaking of new old things, vintage fashions made their way into the chat in a big way this June, whether in terms of rare finds or sustainable efforts via upcycling, fabric development and natural dyes (Paris-based De Bonne Facture achieved an ideal medium brown using coffee, for instance). At the heart of the conversation was another bona fide vintage guru Maurizio Donadi who made a case for the timelessness and democratic nature of indigo with his centuries-spanning exhibit of antique garments from around the globe.

Below you’ll find a dozen of our favorite looks from Pitti Uomo 106, lensed by our eagle-eyed street-style photographer Lorenzo Sodi. We hope they inspire.

Lorenzo Sodi

A lesson in simplicity and the power of a classic palette—good quality vintage accents such as a turquoise embellished belt buckle add interest to timeless workwear. Ray-Ban’s universally-flattering Wayfarer sunglasses are the perfect finishing touch.

Lorenzo Sodi

Sans suit and shirt, the neckerchief (of which there were many at Pitti), adds a welcome dose of colour to a white tee and relaxed jacket and proves that sometimes one choice detail is all it takes. A well-loved, slightly-too-long belt and canvas Vans contribute to the casual harmony.

Lorenzo Sodi

Whatever the weather, you’ll find Douglas Cordeaux, from Fox Brothers, looking immaculate in shirt and tie… and a suit made of one of Fox’s many fabrics. British elegance, embodied.

Lorenzo Sodi

Relaxed elegance is the foundation of the Brunello Cuccinelli brand. Here, the maestro himself shows us how it’s done in a double-breasted linen ensemble featuring a few personal flourishes.

Lorenzo Sodi

Designer Alessandro Pirounis of Pirounis offers a masterclass on the rule of three with a contemporary twist, subbing the usual jacket with an overshirt of his own design.

Lorenzo Sodi

A renaissance man takes Florence. True to his roots, US Marine veteran, Savile Row-trained tailor and photographer Robert Spangle blazes a sartorial trail that’s all his own.

Lorenzo Sodi

Cream trousers are an essential element of elegant Italian summer style. Designer Nicola Radano of Spacca Neapolis channels one of the greats (Marcello Mastroianni) in a dark polo of his own design, collar spread wide across his jacket’s lapel for a welcome retro lean.

Lorenzo Sodi

Proof of the power of tonal dressing, that can create an impactful outfit just by sticking to the same colour family. A chic ensemble and in some ways an elevated version of the double-denim look, every element is working hard in service to the whole.

Lorenzo Sodi

UK-based stylist Tom Stubbs has long been a proponent of blousy pleats, lengthy db jackets, and statement-making neck scarves and here, in vintage Armani, he embodies the louche, oversize look that many designers are just now catching up on.

Lorenzo Sodi

A tailor splitting his time between Berlin and Cologne, Maximilian Mogg is known for his strong-shouldered, architectural suiting. Yet in Mogg’s hands, particularly with this non-traditional colour scheme, the effect is always modern and youthful.

Lorenzo Sodi

If Max Poglia’s relaxed Hawaiian shirt and suit combo is any indication, summer has truly arrived. But it’s an excellent example of how to wearing tailoring in more casual fashion. This cream db would look perfect with shirt and tie at a wedding in August and just as chic here with slippers and a laid-back shirt.

Lorenzo Sodi

Another example of how tailoring can be laid-back and breezy for summer, from a dude who looks no stranger to enjoying the best of the warmer months. Jaunty pocket square, sandals, untucked linen shirt…go forth and emulate.

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