These watches set fire to SIHH 2019

Robb Report finds envelope-nudging, artisanal flair and ‘firsts’ in abundance at SIHH 2019 in Geneva.

By Nick Scott 04/03/2019

Fabienne Lupo, who runs the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) – Geneva’s annual watch fair that started out, in 1991, as luxury group Richemont’s riposte to Baselworld – says that the annual event’s aim is “to become a kind of Davos of watchmaking”. It’s an audacious mission statement, given that the World Economic Forum literally sets out to make the world a better place: but the 29th SIHH event, which took place in January, showcased the extent to which watchmakers are rising to the challenge, when it comes to enriching the horological ecosphere.

As usual, many of the innovative masterstrokes found within the branded grottos at the Palexpo exhibition centre were mechanical in nature. Baume & Mercier wowed even the most finicky of horological engineering geeks present – and they weren’t short in number – by adding a perpetual calendar to the arsenal of complications (silicon hairspring, high-performance escapement, five-day power reserve) introduced last year to the new Baumatic range ($34,800). Also worth a look are the eight new Classima Lady Steel watches with new dial sizes and automatic quartz movements, the version with Classima mother-of-pearl quartz and a diamond-set bezel being the stand-out ($6200).


Richard Mille Marshmallow Series
Courtesy Richard Mille

Another impressive mechanical ‘first’ came from Jaeger-LeCoultre, whose Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel ($1.274 million) features a minute repeater that eschews the traditional two-note ding in favour of the familiar four-note refrain sounded by Big Ben. Girard-Perregaux’s new 48mm bead-blasted titanium piece, the Bridges Cosmos (POA), offers a 60-hour power reserve thanks to an impressive new calibre that lies within, while A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Date – a 10th-anniversary celebration piece – features a glass ring date, with printed numerals from 1 to 31, which circumferences the dial and nudges a notch further around it each midnight (around $141,700).

There was also plenty of inventive zeal with unconventional materials: sat atop Piaget’s Altiplano’s ultra-thin calibre is a meteorite dial – blue in the 41mm pink gold Tourbillon version ($188,000), grey in the 40mm pink gold version (from $41,600) – while RJ Watches’ ARRAW 6919, complementing a patented mechanism that displays a 3D moon rotating 360°, features materials scraped from the lunar surface (POA). And, moving from ultra-rare materials to problematically ubiquitous ones, Panerai presented its Mike Horn Edition Submersible, an edition limited to 19 pieces, each with a strap made from three recycled plastic bottles (around $32,000, or $64,000 for a special edition that includes training with Horn in the Arctic).

Two brands, in particular, showcased some serious R&D vigour with crystals: one being Audemars Piguet, whose new range, entitled Code 11.59, as well as three new in-house movements including an integrated column wheel chronograph with flyback function, features a sapphire crystal that is domed internally but vertically curved between 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock (POA). Take our word for it – it does far more for depth, perspective and legibility than it sounds like it should. Bovet also nudged the known crystal envelope, its Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter One piece being entirely cased in sapphire crystal ($414,500).

Watches that wear their heart on their sleeve – we refer to ‘skeletonised’ or ‘openworked’ pieces – seem ever more abundant at both the annual fairs. Audemars Piguet’s aforementioned Code 11.59 collection features, among its 13 iterations, a Skeleton Tourbillon; Ulysse Nardin’s Skeleton X, meanwhile, takes a sporty, hyper-modern approach to the form (including a version in Carbonium®Gold, a material usually used in the aerospace sector; $31,050).


SANTOS DE CARTIER SKELETON WATCH
Courtesy Cartier

Perhaps the most surprising addition to the skeleton canon unveiled here, though, was a model being added, along with a chronograph, to Cartier’s Santos range, which enjoyed a successful re-launch last year. The slightly Batman-esque, all-black Noctambule model features Super-Luminova on its movement bridges, numbers and minute and hour hands ($37,500). The Révélation d’Une Panthère in white gold with diamonds ($385,000) – whose dial features a panther’s face made up of gold beads, which disperse to the bottom of the dial with a tilt of the wrist – was another stand-out when it came to the French house’s new offerings.

The many SIHH attendees with a strong penchant for dial decoration weren’t left disappointed – the delicate slate guilloche on Parmigiani’s Toric Chronomètre ($37,800) and Greubel Forsey’s lavishly micro-engraved Art Piece Edition Historique ($872,000) were stand-outs – but other brands showed a tendency towards zanier methods. That includes Richard Mille, whose nectarous new collection is made up of 10 models that articulate their creator’s affection for sweets, cupcakes, pastries and fruits (they were designed by ladies’ collection director Cécile Guenat, who is Mille’s business partner and friend Dominique Guenat’s daughter). While most of the collection, which features 3000 miniature sculptures, adheres to the brand’s familiar multi-layered, miniature toy-theatre look, the standout piece here – the RM 07-03 Automatic Marshmallow – is fronted by a gently ridged panel of elegant, pink and white, hand-enamelled swirls ($230,500).Panerai’s new 47mm Submersible Chrono Guillaume Néry Edition features a dial textured in grey to resemble a shark’s skin (around $30,400). (The special edition, $62,000, comes with a unique experience with Guillaume Néry, after whom the watch is named, in the ocean depths of French Polynesia).


Gruebel Forsey Art Piece Edition Historique
Courtesy Gruebel Forsey

Ulysse Nardin, meanwhile, has teamed up with Italian erotic comic book illustrator Milo Manara to create its new Classico Erotic series: 10 different pieces, depicting different stages of a Sapphic fling between a young woman and a mermaid (from $63,293). The watch-buying world’s penchant for blue dials, climbing to the crest of the zeitgeist for a few years, continues unabated: the ultra-thin Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar in white gold ($1.24 million) being a fine example of ultra-modern classicism, and Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 featuring several iterations with rich azure frontages visible through that crystal sapphire trickery.

No watch fair is complete without an horological-automotive collaboration, thanks to predecessors such as Ball For BMW, the Pamigiani Fleurier Bugatti Atalante Flyback Chronograph and – of course – the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. Here, the openworked nature of the Excalibur One-Off by Roger Dubuis, produced in partnership with both Lamborghini and Pirelli (around $1.492 million), exposes marvels such as its flying tourbillon, modelled on the V-shaped engine block of a Lamborghini. (This one-off edition was sold immediately after launch.) The pick of the military heritage bunch – alongside all of Panerai’s output, by virtue of its brand-defining history as a supplier to the Italian Navy – was IWC Schaffhausen’s Spitfire Collection (from $6700 to $42,600), a tie-in with the house’s sponsorship of the forthcoming Silver Spitfire/The Longest Flight project.


Parmigiani Toric Chronometre Slate Guilloche
Courtesy Parmigiani

This mission will see two British aviation enthusiasts, Matt Jones and Steve Brooks, circumnavigate the planet, covering 43,500 kilometres over four months, in a silver Spitfire Mark IX. Also drawing on adventure as a theme was Montblanc, whose additions to the 1858 Collection with bronze cases, khaki dials and NATO straps are engraved with a ‘Spirit of Mountain Exploration’ design (around $4600 to $9300). The Richemont show it may well be, but since 2016, SIHH has been drawing an increasing number of smaller, artisanal brands to its special Carré des Horlogers zone within. And, among these tirelessly innovative independents, RJ was not the only one with a zest for experimentation.

F.P. Journe’s audacious Tourbillon Souverain Vertical (around $343,500 in red gold and around $349,000 in platinum), according to the company’s eponymous founder François-Paul Journe, actually improves on an invention that has been at the apex of horological precision for over 200 years. “I designed this vertical tourbillon so that its functions remain constant whether the watch lies flat or is placed on its side,” he says. Elsewhere in the Carré des Horlogers area, Christophe Claret presented its new Angelico: another tourbillon, this one inspired by 18th century marine chronometers, with a long detent escapement and cable-type fusee (around $334,500 in red gold, around $306,300 in titanium); MB&F launched a steel version of its sci-fi-ish HM6 (around $295,000), which has sapphire crystal domes in each of the four corners of its biomorphic case; Armin Strom ushered a sapphire version of its Dual Time Resonance – another watch with a fully exposed movement – into its repertoire (around $393,000); equally eye-catching was DeWitt’s Academia Hour Planet watch (POA), which has a beautifully textured globe embedded in its dial.


Speake Marin One&Two
Courtesy Speak Marin

Next door, Speake Marin’s One&Two collection offered up yet another openworked marvel: a travel watch combining a dual time indication and a retrograde date (around $23,000 in titanium; around $41,500 in red gold); small Belgian manufacture Ressence introduced its Type 1 Slim (around $23,595) – an exercise in pared- down futurism – while HYT possibly picked up the gong for the most outlandish revelation in its H20 Time is Fluid model, another exercise in hydraulic horology (around $161,500 in steel, around $175,000 in gold).

The Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black from H Moser & Cie – the brand that, two years ago, convinced the world to take a watch case made from Swiss cheese seriously – resembles an Apple smartwatch but, lacking any kind of time-based display, communicates the time aurally ($553,800). Ferdinand Berthoud presented the 2019 ‘Oeuvre d’Or’ iterations of its FB 1 Chronometer in white gold and diamonds (around $396,750) and rose gold (around $362,300).

Hautlence unveiled its HL Vagabonde Tourbillon ($37,800), whose bizarre-but-grows-on-you aesthetic was made up of a central disc, three satellites and a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, all overlapping, within a 18kt red gold lozenge case. Surely the most eye-catching mechanical conceit on display, though, belonged to avant-garde engineering mavens Urwerk.


Uwerk AMC
Courtesy Uwerk

The company’s ambitious flagship project, AMC (see Robb Report July-August 2018), marries two devices: the Atomolith, a 35-kilogram atomic clock within an aluminium case, and a mechanical watch that, when docked, is chronometrically aligned to the mothership ($3.9 million).Disruptive boutique brands notwithstanding, SIHH is predominantly a showcase for Richemont’s brands – but that doesn’t stop others getting in on the act, running their own mini watch fairs out of Geneva’s more upmarket hotel suites.

Thus did attendees who ventured away from the Palexpo get to take in models like the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph.

Being piggy-backed like this is, of course, a compliment to organisers of a premium horological event that’s likely to become stronger and more relevant with the announcement that SIHH and Baselworld will begin coordinating dates so that they coincide from 2020. Given the creative zeal showcased here – the houses’ tireless capacity for rejuvenation and reinvention – it’d take a curmudgeon not to hope that the move provides the industry as a whole with a shot in the arm.

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Forever Young

You’re born, you live, you get old—right? Well, not according to a growing legion of death-dodgers who are prepared to pay any price to reverse the ageing process.

By Alison Boleyn 13/09/2024

It is, by any estimation, a meeting of strange bedfellows. Gathered here tonight, at the table of a centi-millionaire venture capitalist living in Venice, California, are Kim and Khloé Kardashian, Kris Jenner and the manfluencer-neuroscientist Andrew Huberman. And the reason this hybrid crew has assembled? Part evangelism, part investment drive, and mostly about discussing how to never, ever die.

The menu that evening—black lentils over drifts of veg with berry-strewn nut pudding—nodded to what the head of the table eats every single day, albeit in separate sittings and all before 11.00 am. Bryan Johnson, who sold Braintree Venmo to PayPal for US$800 million (around $1.2 billion) in 2013, now devotes his life and fortune to winding back his biological age. What he calls his “Don’t Die Dinners” manifest a trend in health and wellbeing where the vision of living to 120, 150 and beyond, has moved from anti-ageing scientists, elite athletes and tech eccentrics to a whole new level of celebrity.

“The two futurist topics everyone is obsessed with right now are artificial intelligence and living forever,” says neuroscientist and futurist Joel Pearson. “Interest in longevity has exploded over the last eight months and that’s because of Bryan Johnson’s Don’t Die campaign.”

Jeff Bezos attends The 2024 Met Gala Celebrating “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion” at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes/MG24/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue)

In March, when doctors injected 300 million young Swedish bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) into Johnson’s knees, hips and shoulders, it was in a clinic in the Bahamian resort owned by Justin Timberlake and Tiger Woods. The 47-year-old—that’s in chronological years; his heart has the biological age of 37—consumes 32 kg of vegetables monthly and more than 100 pills a day, hits bed strictly at 8.30 pm and will repeat the MSC therapy next year so his joints match his already youthful bone mineral density. Other biomarkers show he has the cardiovascular fitness, muscle mass and nighttime erections of a fit 18-year-old. Johnson’s waking hours are devoted to a regimen of therapies and exercises continually recalibrated by a team of more than 30 doctors, with one goal: to slow down the ageing process. Or as Johnson is fond of saying: “Is death no longer inevitable?”

One of Johnson’s July dinner guests, the charismatic Stanford neuroscientist Andrew Huberman, has helped propel this notion of extreme longevity. Huberman Lab is Apple Podcasts’ most popular health and fitness show, and the 16th most popular podcast across all categories. His self-optimisation ethos appeals to the acolytes of the show’s manly backer, former UFC fighter Joe Rogan.

Andrew Huberman Ph.D., is a neuroscientist and tenured professor in the Department of Neurobiology and by courtesy, Psychiatry and Behavioral Sciences at at Stanford School of Medicine.

“It’s that bro science,” says Pearson, who heads the Future Minds Lab at UNSW and himself adheres to a routine of saunas, kava and red-light therapy to improve sleep. “It’s the young guys in the gym with the ice baths and the hormones and the hunting.” (Because testosterone declines in men starting from their 30s, attempting to boost the hormone through abstinence has become an ideology of a particularly butch patch of anti-agers; getting good-quality protein by shooting your own is another.)

DJ Steve Aoki (46, but biologically 33) has equipped his Las Vegas home with ice plunge tubs, saunas, pulsed electromagnetic field mats, a hyperbaric oxygen chamber and a tea bar . He has “I’ll sleep when I’m dead” tattooed across his neck and says he’s signed up for “the full-body freeze”—the cryopreservation of his body for future revival.

While US-based futurist Dr Divya Chander says this euphoria around stretching longevity has not extended to women—“I think they still feel limited by their biology”—Hailey Bieber has shown that the gender divide might be shifting. On an episode of The Kardashians, the 27-year-old model (biological age unknown) underwent an intravenous infusion of NAD with her friend Kendall Jenner. NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) is a compound in the body that supports cellular process. “I’m going to NAD for the rest of my life and I’m never going to age,” Bieber said on the show. She was visibly joking yet Jennifer Aniston, 55, told the Wall Street Journal last year that she’s also used NAD+ IV drips, and Kourtney Kardashian, 45, calls her liquid form of NAD “the genetic key to longevity”.

LHailey Bieber is seen on March 02, 2022 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Bellocqimages/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)

The Sydney-based founders of UAre, an app designed to increase longevity, say that in the early years of testing, men and women responded differently to the product. “The conversation with men was more about winning,” says co-founder Marc Pasques. “‘I extended my lifespan by a year by doing more exercise’, or ‘I extended it by two’. Women talked about hanging out with grandkids.” But he goes on to admit that gap in motivation is closing.

Are has just opened a $1 million seed round and forecasts $10 million in revenue in 2025 and $30 million in 2026. There’s money to be made in extending youth, if not eternal life. Bryan Johnson sells Blueprint basics for US$333 (around $495) a month. The Harvard biologist and author of Lifespan: Why We Age—and Why We Don’t Have To, David Sinclair (chronologically 55; biologically 42), who controversially advocates for resveratrol—a plant compound found in red wine and grapes—as an anti-aging drug and who says there are no limits to how long we can live, has co-patented a skincare line with Caudalie.

Professional services giant PwC argues that the oft-used estimate of the global market value of longevity therapeutics at around $65 billion by 2030 does not take into account the potential for these to replace conventional therapeutics in healthcare. Australia’s first medical facility to offer personalised longevity programs, Longevity Medicine Institute, opened in Sydney’s Double Bay in July. “People are coordinating their aesthetic care with longevity doctors,” says New York-based celebrity cosmetic dermatologist Dr Paul Jarrod Frank, whose clients include Madonna. “They’re using supplements like NAD, newer peptides and various manipulative efforts to try and look younger and live longer.” 

Similarly Don Saladino, the personal trainer who’s shaped up Hugh Jackman and Jake Gyllenhaal, emphasises age-extending practices in his star clients’ programs as strongly as any aesthetic goals. As Ryan Reynolds readied himself to assume a “tight-as-hell” costume for this year’s Marvel movie Deadpool & Wolverine, Saladino coached the 47-year-old through better sleep practices, walking and increasing dietary fibre. He reframes strength training as not just body-sculpting but as creating “body armour” for later life, to prevent the falls so catastrophic for the elderly.

 Ryan Reynolds attends the 2022 People’s Choice Awards at Barker Hangar on December 06, 2022 in Santa Monica, California. (Photo by Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic)

And Chris Hemsworth, who plays another Marvel superhero Thor, included efforts to stave off the onset of dementia through meditation and exercise alongside Arctic ice plunges in his bid to increase longevity in the TV series Limitless.

Australian actor Chris Hemsworth in the McLaren garage during the F1 Grand Prix of Abu Dhabi at Yas Marina Circuit on November 26, 2023 in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by Kym Illman/Getty Images)

The man who was Australia’s deputy chief medical officer during the Covid-19 pandemic questions the lure of many supplements and longevity interventions. As host of the 9Network’s Do you Want To Live Forever seriesDr Nick Coatsworth visits Okinawa, a “blue zone” where an astonishing number of inhabitants live past 100 in good health. There he watches some local elderly dance to hip-hop. “All that biohacking people do, it’s just a waste of time,” he says. “To live longer, you have to spend time with good friends, keep moving and have a good diet.”

Joel Pearson, who stopped taking resveratrol and NMN supplements years ago after research showed mixed results, agrees.If there’s compelling evidence showing frequent sauna users can get a 40 per cent drop in all-cause mortality, then why would you spend time worrying about a molecule that has very small effect?”

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Only The Good Die Young

In a future of floating
billionaire summits,
do we really want to
live forever?

By Horacio Silva 13/09/2024

Two thousand tech moguls, shamans, CEOs and DJs packed together on a cruise ship for what organisers call “invitation only, one of a kind experiences where super humans make magic”. What could go wrong? That’s the pitch for Summit at Sea, an event billed as a “floating Davos” for millennial technocrats, staged in international waters off Miami. But even if the marketing lingo sometimes threatens to sink under its own weight (“Wherever your gravitational force takes you, our constellation offers wonder”), Summit at Sea captures something about the zeitgeist of what billionaires are looking for now.

They want woo-woo; they want to microdose mushrooms, ketamine and LSD (as championed by the likes of Sergey Brin and Elon Musk), and they most certainly don’t want to die. This issue is about those issues. Jeff Bezos, Mark Zuckerberg and Peter Thiel are among the squillionaires bankrolling longevity initiatives— presumably to live long enough to be able to spend all their money. But as Alison Boleyn reports in her first story for Robb Report, even those outre efforts—Thiel is said to receive blood transfusions from people under 25—pale when compared to Bryan Johnson, who reportedly spends $2 million a year on anti- ageing methods. For those of us who can’t afford eternal life, however, the good news is the world is still full of earthly delights.

Take the healthful effects of the Greek island of Tinos or driving the new Rolls-Royce around Ibiza, for example. We also check into an integrated wellness clinic in Thailand and a luxury resort in Spain that focuses on gut health—miso soup and a side of algae, anyone?—and luxuriate in Guerlain’s stunning new day spa outside of Athens. And we spend time with Rory Warnock, a breathwork practitioner and ultra-marathon runner whose tips for curing anxiety and promoting wellbeing are being sought by everyone from CEOs and Olympians to companies like Google and Bupa. And like us, he’s also partial to a well-made negroni. Oh, waiter? Maybe we’ll let the ship sail without us.

Robb Report ANZ’s Issue #37 is now on sale. Pick up your copy of our September issue, to discover Spring cleaning for the mind, body and wardrobe.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Breathing New Life

Ancient cultures have used it for thousands of years to cure anxiety and promote wellbeing; now everyone from CEOs to Olympians are discovering the health benefits of breathwork.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 13/09/2024

Rory Warnock is not your typical new-age guy. When we meet him, he’s sipping a negroni overlooking the ocean at Casa Amor in Saint-Tropez, dressed in an open-neck shirt, expensive sunglasses and a jaunty Hermès silk scarf tied around his neck; no kombucha teas or healing-crystal necklaces here. His relaxed posture is a far cry from 10 days ago when he was preparing to run a 200 km marathon through the Tian Shan mountain range in remotest Kyrgyzstan. “I carried everything I’d need for six days in the mountains. My pack weighed 10.8 kg on day one, excluding water. And I surprisingly ended up coming third,” he says. 

According to Warnock, this staggering feat of endurance was mainly down to one thing: breathwork.

Proclaimed as an all-natural wonder drug by an ever-growing chorus of scientists, doctors and fitness enthusiasts, breathwork describes the act of inhaling and exhaling in a way that brings an overwhelming, sometimes euphoric, sense of calm and balance to your body. Though it dates back thousands of years—evidence has been found to suggest the practice was adpoted in ancient India, and shamanic cultures in South America, Africa and Australia—modern-day breathwork broadly falls into two different categories.

The first is the mindful breathing that forms an essential part of yoga and meditation: alternate nostril breathing, or box breathing, are taught as simple physiological tools to downregulate the nervous system and move the brain from fight or flight mode. It’s believed these simple methods re-tune brain chemistry, by reducing the amount of noradrenaline to the organ—akin to popping Valium or taking a perfectly safe mini-tranquiliser.

The second is holotropic breathing, which is deep, transformative breathwork. Devotees says it’s more like taking a mushroom trip. Pioneered by Dr Stanislav Grof in the ’70s, it invloves laying on your back in the dark and following a sequence of breathing patterns as you’re guided by a trained facilitator—and is often set to music. It’s claimed that this more intensive work can yield powerful results by connecting to the subconscious, releasing accumulated trauma and accessing inner wisdom.

Nine years ago, Scottish-born Warnock took a risk. He traded working for a successful packaged goods company in London for a career as a breathwork coach in Sydney—long before his passion was an internet buzzword. The move, however, was not necessarily driven by financial motives. “I was diagnosed with anxiety and depression at a pretty young age, like 21 or 22 years,” he says, taking another sip of his negroni. “I was pretty much crying myself to sleep for about three years and I didn’t really understand what was going on.”

Dissatisfied with being prescribed “a little white pill” by his doctor and given a “pat on the back”, Warnock began to look for new ways to heal his condition. “I tried to do everything I could to improve myself in a more holistic way and so I got into running,” he says. “I changed my lifestyle.” 

And more significantly, he discovered breathwork, giving him a new mission in life. “When I first heard about it, I thought ‘breathwork’, that sounds a bit ridiculous. Someone is going to tell me how to breathe in a certain way and it is going to change how I think and feel and ultimately perform day-to-day? But I went along to one session and that one hour changed the direction of my whole life. I was hooked on the feeling. I was hooked on the immediate effects, hooked on feeling joyful, happy, strong, empowered.”

In person, Rory’s enthusiasm is infectious, but his testimonials are, increasingly, backed up by science. A 2014 study by the Stanford Research Unit found breathing exercises to be effective for treating PTSD in combat veterans; and by 2016, US Navy seals started using breathwork to achieve calm and focus before battle. British neuroscientist Professor Ian Robertson calls it the “the most precise pharmaceutical you could ever give yourself, side-effect free”, while some researchers claim breathing exercises are an effective, low-cost treatment for PTSD, bi-polar, insomnia, and can even help combat grief. 

The general public are buying into the movement, too; according to a report by the Global Wellness Institute, breathwork has experienced a 400 percent uptick in popularity since 2019. And, unsurprisingly, billionaire technology titans, who are always looking for the next big health panacea, are buying in. “It’s all very steeped in Silicon Valley tech culture,” said Jag Gill, a New York-based banker turned tech CEO in a recent interview with The Washington Post. 

Dr Smita Dsilva is an ayurvedic doctor (ayurveda being an ancient Indian alternative medicine) at the RAKxa Integrative Wellness in Bangkok, Thailand, a clinic that received celebrity patronage in July when supermodel  Kate Moss passed through. “Breathing exercises have been used for centuries as a powerful tool to manage stress and anxiety, increase focus, and improve overall wellbeing. In the high-pressure business world, this is a simple yet effective practice, she says. “Giving attention to the breath promotes the purification of both the mind and body, while also raising the energy. It also frees the mind from unnecessary thoughts that promote anxiety… regular practice can release up to 80 percent of the body’s toxins through the breath.”

And breathwork is not just an elixir for various negative mood states. According to Dsilva, the practise can also help with aesthetic issues: “Kapalbhati pranayama is a specific breathing technique in yoga that involves forceful exhalations and passive inhalations, engaging the abdominal muscles throughout the practice. The vigorous breathing and abdominal contractions help reduce bloating and support the removal of toxins, potentially leading to reduced belly bloating and weight loss.”

These findings will not be news to the clients who flock to Rory Warnock’s breathwork school in Sydney’s Bondi suburb. Or to the Olympic athletes, AFL players and CEOs who are huffing and puffing his studio door down on a regular basis. Most likely due to his soft Scottish accent and self-effacing manner, Rory has been adpoted by a raft of high-calibre companies, including Google, Amazon, BUPA and Energy Australia, eagre to learn how mindful breathing can bring better productivity to the workplace. He’s an ambassador for Apple and Lululemon, and has evolved into a seasoned conference speaker. Warnock’s brave career-change gamble has clearly paid off.

When he’s not teaching the world’s movers and shakers how to harness the power of something that we all do around 20,000 times a day without even thinking, Rory has gotten into the habit of bookending his year with long-distance races; for him, breathwork and ultra-marathon running are intimately linked. But he insists that mental issues can be addressed on a more prosaic level.

“You don’t have to go for a 45-minute yoga class or a run,” he insists. “You can just do a few minutes or even a few seconds of breathwork and you can move from a low state, to a better mood state. And it is exactly the same with anxiety; if you are feeling stressed and overwhelmed, there are breathing exercises you can do in real time to shift how you feel.” Negronis are allowed, too.

Rory Wornock, discover Rory Wornock’s breath lessons on Spotify.

Rakxa Wellness

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

You may also like.

The Bird Man

Neil Perry returns to the Cantonese coop
with a sensational new Sydney eatery.

By Horacio Silva 14/09/2024

When Neil Perry was casing a potential venue for a new restaurant, a heritage-listed, modernist masterpiece in Double Bay designed by the architect and former Woollahra mayor Neville Gruzman, it reminded the celebrated chef of a birdcage. The image of the columbary building, all windows and dramatic vertical panels, captivated him. A year later, it has inspired the opening of Sydney’s most hotly anticipated new restaurant, Song Bird.

The three-level, 230-seater joins Perry’s other joints in the swank block —the award-winning seafood restaurant Margaret, the adjacent bar Next Door and the Baker Bleu bakery two doors up. It also marks a return to Cantonese fare for Perry, who made his name partly on the success of renowned Sydney eateries Wokpool and Spice Temple, and a welcome coming home for quality Chinese in the area.

“Bizarrely, there were two really great Chinese restaurants in Double Bay,” Perry recalls. “The Imperial Peking, just upstairs from where Scanlan Theodore is now, was terrific, and the nearby Cleveland was probably the best Chinese restaurant in Sydney in the early ’90s. That’s what I’m aspiring to.” What made these two erstwhile locations so good, Perry adds, was that they didn’t overreach: “Just beautiful Chinese food and great service. That’s the secret sauce.” It won’t be all Spencer Gulf king prawn dumplings, Peking duck, and steamed ginger and shallot coral trout. Rebel-rousing is also on the menu. Downstairs, in the old Pelicano space, will house Bobbie’s, a speakeasy in conjunction with Linden Pride and Nathalie Hudson of New York’s renowned Caffe Dante, named after Pride’s grandfather, the legendary Australian broadcaster Bob Rogers.

Linden Pride and Neil Perry at Bobbie’s in Double Bay

The good times will also be rolling on September 17, when Robb Report takes over Song Bird to serenade Perry, our Culinary Master of the Year. When it came time to select the year’s standout gastronomic talent, the choice was easy. Ditto the avian-esque venue. As such, be sure to pick up our next issue for a special section devoted to Culinary Masters. It’s bound to make gourmands chirp with delight. 

Song Bird & Bobbie’s

 

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Shooting Star

As her four-decade retrospective embarks on a national tour, convention-challenging Australian photographer Anne Zahalka is looking backwards to move forward.

By Horacio Silva 13/09/2024

Anne Zahalka’s office is a museum-worthy cabinet of curiosities. Located on the first floor of the photographer’s terrace in Sydney’s inner city, next to a room that serves as a makeshift studio, it is replete with the standard ephemera and clutter of an artist’s lair. On the wall in front of her desk hangs a portrait (taken by Zahalka’s aunt, a fellow photographer) of her mother as a young woman and a shelf filled with CDs, floppy disks and other outdated technology; on another, mounted shelves heave under the weight of 40 years of project folders. 

“Maybe it’s because I’m getting older,” Zahalka, now 68, says over tea while flicking through the pages of documentation from her first show in 1981, “but I’m feeling increasingly nostalgic, and these folders are invaluable. Being able to go back to the year the works were made and looking at the documentation and research is beyond helpful. I turn to them all the time.” Behind Zahalka’s desk, a bookshelf teems with magazines and publications she has been featured in and go-to reference books on everything from trompe l’oeil to Goya and portraiture.

Installation shot of Kunstkammer – Anne’s studio reproduction at NAS Gallery. Image by Jackie Manning.

The curated miscellany is not only an invaluable source of daily inspiration, but as a maquette on top of a filing cabinet suggests, it is also a focal point of a new exhibition. Running through October 19 at Sydney’s National Arts School (NAS) before a national tour, ZahalkaworldAn Artist’s Archive is the most comprehensive survey of the photographer’s work since she emerged in the early 1980s and bloomed into one of Australia’s most thought-provoking artists. At the heart of the exhibition is Kunstkammer, a life-size immersive recreation of Zahalka’s office—albeit a bit tidier than in reality. “It’s the centrepiece of the show,” says the softly spoken artist. “I like to be generous about how my work is made and the thinking behind it. People don’t get to see that often, and this is an opportunity to open that up and share where I have lived and worked.”

Staged over the two floors of the NAS Gallery, Zahalkaworld, which debuted at the Museum of Australian Photography in 2023, presents more than 100 original prints from 15 series over the years, and assorted curios and collectibles from her office and studio. Her initial reworkings of Old Master and Early Australian paintings presaged a fondness for collage and photomontage, working with found historical images to tell new stories about underrepresented members of society. In one of her most famous works, The Bathers (1989), a recreation of Charles Meere’s Australian Beach Pattern (1940), she recasts the all-white original with a diverse cast of characters she encountered in the late ’80s after returning to Australia from a Berlin residency. “I’m interested in how we are represented and in our national image,” she says. “My work often tries to decode and untangle that and come up with other figures not represented in the culture.”

Anne ZAHALKA, The Bathers 1989, taken from the series Bondi: playground of the Pacific. Chromogenic print 95 x 112 cm. Museum of Australian Photography, City of Monash Collection donated through the Australian Government’s Cultural Gifts Program by the Bowness Family 2010. Image supplied courtesy of the artist, Arc One Gallery, Melbourne and Dominik Mersch Gallery, Sydney.

The exhibition marks a poignant homecoming of sorts for Zahalka, having studied at the NAS in the late ’70s before returning a few years later to teach photo-media. Sharing pride of place alongside six of her works from the gallery’s collection are five recent works that deal with natural history and incorporate images of old museum dioramas in her sharp, often humorous criticisms of tourism and other environmental interferences wreaking havoc on the planet. Cast aways (2024) is set against the background of a 1939 diorama of Lord Howe Island at the Australian Museum. But in Zahalka’s reworking, pioneering conservationists (lifted from another painting) examine plastic pollution while planes fly overhead, and contrails replace clouds.

Anne ZAHALKACast aways, 2024 from the series Future Past Present Tense. Solvent ink print on rag paper, 80 × 120 cm. Image courtesy of the artist and ARC ONE Gallery, Melbourne

Something is comforting, she adds, about recreating and reimagining these historical scenarios, even if it is to comment on the consequences of ocean pollution. As for revisiting her past, what has looking in the rearview mirror revealed about herself and her work? “Some things, like making these disruptions on history to speak about the current place we’re in, have remained the same,” she says. “But if this whole process of preparing for the show has taught me anything, it’s that there are a lot of parts to me.” The studio may be messy, but nostalgia has never looked so fresh.

Visit NAS Gallery for all ZAHALKAWORLD showing until 19 October.

Top image: Anne ZAHALKA, The Artist (self portrait) 1988, taken from the series Resemblance II. Silver dye bleach print, 50.0 x 50.0 cm. Image supplied courtesy of the artist, represented by ARC ONE Gallery (Melbourne) and Dominik Mersch Gallery (Sydney).

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected