The Best Watches Coming From Breguet, Blancpain, Omega and the Rest of the Swatch Group This Year

Plus, the verdict on the new 50th anniversary moon watch.

By Paige Reddinger 20/05/2019

Switzerland’s largest privately-owned watch conglomerate, the Swatch Group, unveiled its 2019 watches in Geneva to a small group of journalists during its newly minted press event “Time to Move.” The event was created after founder Nick Hayek decided to pull the entire group out of the annual Baselworld watch fair, which has recently been in decline as brands try new approaches to reaching retailers, clients and press.

Robb Report was included among the group of international publications invited to attend the highly anticipated event, which involved press tours of all the Swatch Group prestige brand’s manufactures. Here are some of the highlights from each brand, but stay tuned as we roll out full coverage of the collections.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda

Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms timepiece is hotter than ever in both new models and on the secondary market, so it’s not surprising that one of their most covetable releases came in the form of its famous diver model. The new Barakuda Fifty Fathoms is based on vintage models that were supplied to the German Bundesmarine in the ’60s by Barakuda—a company that specialised in technical diving equipment. (The first Fifty Fathoms model, created in 1953, was supplied to the French Frogmen.)

The new model looks nearly identical to the original, which was also made for German civilians in the ’60s, but comes with crisper two-tone rectangular hour markers accented with radium-type SuperLuminova and a sharp hour marker highlighted in white. What’s new is the uni-directional bezel with scratch-resistant domed sapphire, first unveiled by Blancpain in 2003. The 40mm watch (limited to 500 pieces) houses the calibre 1151 self-winding movement, is water resistant up to 300 metres and comes in a steel case on a tropical rubber strap. While Blancpain has not yet confirmed a price, it will likely be well below current prices for the Barakuda in the secondary market. A ’70s-era Barakuda model sold at Phillips last year for CHF 16,250 (approximately $23,000) at the Geneva Watch Auction Seven. You can expect the new model to soar in value once all 500 pieces have sold out.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395

June 26th will mark 218 years since Abraham-Louis Breguet first invented the tourbillon to counteract the effects of gravity in a watch. Today a tourbillon serves as a piece of art meant to flex the technical expertise of a brand’s watchmakers, as well as serve as a fancy focal point on the face of a timepiece. In Breguet’s new Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plate Squelette 5395, the tourbillon—offset at 5 o’clock—is highlighted in the 581 calibre in the form of a skeleton timepiece.

The new architecture called for the removal of almost 50 per cent of the original movement—the remainder has been constructed in 18-karat gold. (For the record: the first time Breguet made an almost entirely gold movement was on Marie Antoinette’s pocket watch commissioned in 1783 and completed 26 years after Breguet invented the tourbillon in 1801). The extra-thin calibre has a thickness of just 3mm, making for a lightweight timepiece despite its platinum case and rose gold movement. It has 80 hours of power reserve and a barrel beating at 4 Hertz. These pieces will go for CHF 220,000 in rose gold and CHF 235,000 in platinum (around 315,000 and $336,000 respectively).

This piece is stunning in person and certainly the most ornate creation in Breguet’s current lineup.

Omega Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Edition

One of the most anticipated watch releases of the year was Omega’s Speedmaster tribute for the 50th anniversary of man’s first steps on the moon. (Although Neil Armstrong was the first man on the moon, he left his Omega Speedmaster 105.012 behind in the space module. Buzz Aldrin wore his Omega onto the surface of the moon at 03:15:16 UTC on July 21, 1969—to date he remains the brand’s most important ambassador.) Unfortunately, it was a somewhat lacklustre release for such a monumental anniversary.

The 50th anniversary Speedmaster has many of the design features of the original, save for two glaring differences: the chronograph subdial at 9 o’clock has been replaced with a miniature rendering of Buzz Aldrin descending from The Eagle. For hardcore moon-landing enthusiasts, this feature probably won’t deter a purchase, but the cartoonish rendering takes away from the otherwise wonderfully utilitarian and straightforward designs that built the brand’s name. The second difference is a footprint-shaped engraving on the case back, dug out of a black-coated plate that mimics the texture of the moon’s surface. It’s encircled by Neil Armstrong’s famous saying, “That’s one small step for a man, one giant leap for mankind.” There’s nothing particularly wrong with that, but wouldn’t it have been so much better if it had neither of these gimmicks? To top it off, the watch is not particularly limited. The 42mm by 13.89mm-thick, steel timepiece (around $12,880) comes in a run of 6969 pieces.

What is nice about the watch is its vintage style bracelet, which not only looks great but feels great to the touch and on the wrist. The dial also has a unique grey colour that has a hint of blue in person. But because of the superfluous details, the moon watch winner of the year may be Omega’s earlier release: the Moonshine Gold Apollo 11 Anniversary timepiece. The limited edition of 1014 pieces debuted in March with a design based on a model gifted to astronauts (and President Nixon) at a dinner to honour their achievement in Houston on November 25th, 1969.

Omega Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Moonshine Gold

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer

German watchmaker and Glashütte native Alfred Helwig was known for creating the flying tourbillon as we know it today—anchoring it only on one side to give the appearance of weightlessness. So it’s no surprise that Glashütte’s most impressive timepiece this year is dedicated to the invention. The Senator Chronometer Tourbillon (limited to 25 in platinum, approximately $220,000) boasts a flying tourbillon with a stop seconds mechanism—with a zero reset and minute detent—activated via the blue enamel crown. The tourbillon can be stopped mid-flight when the crown is pulled out, which also stops the second hand mounted on the cage.

The Teutonic watchmaker is touting its tourbillon as the most accurate on the market. It has two patents pending and took more than 8 years of development led by its in-house female watch designer. It comes with 70 hours of power reserve, indicated at 9 o’clock, with a tourbillon with one barrel and is chronometer certified (by the German Calibration Service in Glashütte, not the standard Swiss COSC certification). It has an extraordinary amount of finishing on the movement visible on its lower half and through the caseback and, when tilted at the right angle, reveals “Chronometer Tourbillon” which appears to be printed inside the top half of the interior of the case but is, in fact, a mirror effect reflecting the phrase which rests on the outer circumference of the hour and minute dial.

But for the man who’s looking for something less ornate in his dress watch, the Senator Chronometer (above right in rose gold, around $35,000), first launched in 2009, is a sharp, pared down offering inspired by Glashütte marine chronometers from the 19th and 20th century.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph

Jaquet Droz is known for its extraordinarily intricate métiers d’art and automaton pieces, but its classic dress watches for men have plenty of appeal in the brand’s figure 8 design—equally inherent to its DNA. Its Grande Second collection is presenting the design for the first time in a chronograph and features an off-centre layout in blue and grey dials in steel cases ($28,000) save for the rose gold version in a vertical layout with a Grand Feu ivory enamel dial ($47,700, limited to 88). In the 43mm steel versions, the dials are finished by hand using a dry sand-blasting technique to accentuate the graining. The blue and grey tone dials are not only standouts but also the first time these exact colours have been used on dials by Jaquet Droz. Each piece features a monopusher, at 4 o’clock in steel and 3 o’clock in rose gold, to preserve a minimalist design.

Harry Winston Histoire de Tourbillon and Emerald 33

Harry Winston presented so many different watch skews this season, picking just one seems like a monumental task. So here we’ve picked two wildly different models to present the breadth of the collection.

First up, is the grandiose Histoire de Tourbillon 10. The first Histoire de Tourbillon was launched in 2009 and the tenth version will be the last of this limited-edition series. The watch comes with a whopping four distinct tourbillons in a piece comprised of 673 components encased in a gigantic 53.3mm-wide by 39.1mm x tall case made predominately of sapphire crystal. It sits like a glass box on the wrist. Despite the durability sapphire crystal, it seems like a rather precarious piece for the wrist at approximately $1,110,000. (the price of the unique platinum piece) but then again, this is clearly not a piece you’ll be running your errands in.

In addition to its four separate symmetrically aligned tourbillons, the piece also has three differentials and two double spinning barrels. This piece is practically a mini-museum exhibition case for the wrist to show off Swatch Group’s technical savoir-faire. In addition to the singular platinum version, it will also come in red gold and white gold, limited to 10 pieces each. Clearly it’s not for everyone, but that’s the point.

Harry Winston Emerald 33

If you’re in search of something more discreet, the new Harry Winston Emerald 33 watches are a really nice introduction from the brand. In an octagonal rectangular shape, also known as an emerald cut in the world of diamonds, this case was previously only available in small sizes for women. The new 33mm case works for both a man looking for a smaller, sleeker watch and a woman looking for something that will stand out on her wrist—initial reactions among the group assembled for the Swatch Group preview suggested it appealed to both men and women in the room. The watch comes in both automatic (approximately $26,000) and quartz (approximately $20,000), as well as diamond-bezel versions (around $31,000).

There were plenty of other stellar gem-set timepieces—including a kaleidoscope pendant (with actual gems to create the mosaic motifs) that doubles as a watch—so stay tuned. Harry Winston also revealed that it’s currently working on a new Opus timepiece, developed with an independent watchmaker for the last three to four years. The watchmaker hasn’t unveiled a new Opus since 2015, but there is no word, and reportedly no rush, on its release date yet.

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Everybody Loves Naomi 

Fashion fans adore her. And so do we. Lucky, then, that a new exhibition is paying homage to four decades of snake-hipped catwalking.

By Joseph Tenni 22/06/2024

Naomi Campbell contains multitudes. Since emerging on the scene in 1986, modelling for British designer Jasper Conran, the statuesque stunner has used the runway for takeoff. She has ventured into all aspects of the culture, from Vogue to Playboy and reality TV. In the business arena, she has dabbled in publishing and the two F&Bs (fragrance and beauty, and food and beverage). Her philanthropic efforts are legion.

Naomi is better known than any of her peers and, aged 54, remains more relevant than ever. As a testament to her pervading influence, a new exhibition, Naomi: In Fashion, is opening at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum. Celebrating her 40 years in the spotlight, the show includes clothes from the model’s closet and some of the designer fashion she has helped to immortalise.

We all know her snake-hipped walk, her glowing skin, her famous paramours, and—yes—her many tantrums and tiaras. But how much do we love her exactly? Let’s count some of the ways. 

1. She Was Born to Be Famous

Many people know Naomi for her appearances in music videos for Michael Jackson’s In the Closet and George Michael’s Freedom! ’90—the latter also featuring fellow supermodels Linda, Cindy and Christy. But Naomi has been in front of the camera since she was a child, and her prolific music-video career predates her modelling. At 8, she appeared in the official video for Bob Marley’s 1978 hit Is This Love. At 13, Culture Club cast her as a tap-dancing teen in I’ll Tumble 4 Ya. It would be another two years before she was discovered by model scout Beth Boldt, while shopping in London’s Covent Garden.

Courtesy Off-White. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

2. She Hits All the Right Notes

As anyone who has ever seen Unzipped, the 1995 cult fashion documentary by Douglas Keeve, Naomi always has a song in her heart. She put her mouth where her money was in 1994 and recorded an album, Babywoman. The cover art featured Naomi, photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth, shaving her legs while sitting on the toilet. Fittingly, the album was canned—despite assistance from contributors like Donna Summer and PM Dawn. 

3. She’s Always Ready for Her Close-Up
Hollywood’s history is full of models who went on to become successful actors. Naomi is not one of them. But not for want of trying. Her turn as a nightclub singer in Vanilla Ice’s 1991 movie Cool as Ice flies under the radar but doesn’t deserve to. Nor does her scene-stealing cameo as a French cheese shopper in The Night We Never Met, alongside Matthew Broderick and Jeanne Tripplehorn. Or her playing a sexy telephone operator in Spike Lee’s Girl 6. Who else has that kind of range? 

4. She Tells It Like It Is

We’d be remiss not to mention her 1994 novel Swan. A roman a clef about a young girl breaking into the modelling industry, flanked by her four besties who are also divas in training heels, it certainly played with genres. A murder-mystery-cum-sexy-romance-cum-vocational-advice page-turner, or something like that, this guilty pleasure was cruelly overlooked and relegated to the annals of bargain bins everywhere. 

5. She’s Got a Mind for Business

Naomi has been vocal over the years about making less money than her white peers and was not going to wait for the industry to catch up. Instead, she has ventured into businesses ranging from her former stake in the Fashion Cafe in New York to her signature fragrances, first released in 1999. What does Naomi smell like? Subtle yet complicated, consisting of top notes of peach, coconut and bergamot with a deep, woody base of cedar and sandalwood—apparently.

6. She Gives Until It Hurts

For a so-called narcissist, Naomi has often put her fame to philanthropic use. She has galvanised black models in fashion with the Black Girls Coalition and has raised money for Africa, Haiti and disaster relief worldwide, including after the Mumbai terrorist attacks. When she was dating the Russian billionaire and Aman Resorts owner Vladislav Doronin, she became committed to saving the tiger. Is there anything this overachiever can’t do?

7. She Can Make Hay From Anything

When she was sentenced to community service following allegations by a former employer that Naomi had attacked her with a mobile phone, the model emerged from her punishment dressed in couture and trailed by a photo crew who were shooting a fashion layout of her for W magazine. And when she was summoned in 2010 to appear in a war crimes trial against former Liberian president Charles Taylor—in relation to an uncut blood diamond he’d allegedly given her—our girl showed up in an Azzedine Alaïa twin-set and wearing a silver “evil eye” necklace, turning the courtroom into a photo opportunity.

8. She’ll Be on Your Side for Evermore
The fashion industry is hardly known for its loyalty or congeniality, but Naomi has maintained decades-long friendships with not only her supermodel sisters like Christy Turlington but also some of the most powerful and difficult players, including John Galliano and Marc Jacobs. That she has remained tight with so many of her friends is not lost on her adoring public. She must be a loyal person and in return, fans everywhere remain loyal to her.

Naomi: In Fashion runs from June 22, 2024, until April 16, 2025, at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London; vam.ac.uk

Courtesy Vivienne Westwood. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

The Sapphire Dinner 2024 Raises Support for Ocean Conservation

This year’s boldfaced bash raised funds for our critically under-supported national treasures. 

By Horacio Silva 22/06/2024

The big fish of Sydney society came out Thursday night for the third annual Sapphire Dinner to raise much-needed money for ocean conservation. Held in conjunction with the Art Gallery of New South Wales, the boldfaced bash was the first sit-down dinner held at the Tank, a repurposed World War II fuel container that sits beneath the Art Gallery’s new wing. 

Set against a backdrop of immersive ocean-inspired video projections by South Korean digital creators d’strict, and with a dress code that inspired guests to recycle their most fabulous fashions, the zero-waste dinner supports The Sapphire Project’s mission to galvanise the community to take action to protect our oceans and the Great Barrier Reef.

Deep-pocketed VIPs who walked the evening’s blue carpet included  Malcolm and Lucy Turnbull, real estate maven Monika Tu, Penelope Seidler, Anna Marsden (Managing Director of Great Barrier Reef Foundation), Michael and Tina Brand, Andrew Cameron, MCA Chair Lorraine Tarabay, Myer boss Olivia Wirth, benefactors Paris Neilsen and Beau Neilson, and Paul Howes and Olivia Wirth, the power couple known as ‘Paulivia’. 

Retired swimmer Giaan Rooney MC’d the event, hosted by Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie and Ryan Gollan and committee members Ian Thorpe AM, Luke Hepworth, Clare Herschell, Susan Wynne, Brioney Prier, Bianca Rinehart, Doris Ma, Kate Champion, Ellie Aitken, and Chong Chua. 

A troupe of former Australian Ballet dancers and a musical performance by the Fijian-Australian singer and actress Paulini entertained the revellers.   

Among the auctioned items was an original work by Del Kathryn Barton, which raised more than $200,000 in a high-spirited bidding war led by Four Pillars Gin founder Stu Gregor, whose expletive-laden entreaties were suitably salty. 

Nobody minded, given that more than a million dollars were raised to support the criminally underfunded ocean conservation (it’s estimated that only about 2 percent of philanthropy in Australia goes towards the preservation of our precious national treasures), with funds going to support important initiatives such as The Great Barrier Reef Foundation, the University of Sydney’s One Tree Island Research Station, the Australian Museum’s Lizard Island Research Station, the Australian Sea Lion Recovery Foundation and Biopixel Oceans Foundation’s Project Hammerhead

The Sapphire Project Dinner 2024
Clare Herschell, Kate Champion, Bianca Rinehart & Hayley Baillie
The tablescapes at the Sapphire Project Dinner
Ian Thorpe
Adrian and Beck Buchan
Monika Tu
The Sapphire Project Dinnner 2024
Lucy & Malcolm Turnbull
Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie & Ryan Gollan

For further information, visit SapphireProject.com.au

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

The 10 Best Omakase in Sydney

Sydney’s best Japanese chef’s-table dining experiences.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 06/06/2024

In Japan, where food is a cultural art form, omakase stands for traditional Japanese foods made with seasonal ingredients. A good omakase meal, prepared with purity and mindfulness, can make an unforgettable imprint on the culinary memory. Yet in a land defined by seasonal traditions, omakase is a relatively new concept.

Omakase originated in Japan in the 1970s as affluent Japanese began to dine more regularly at first-rate sushi counters. Bowing to the expertise of the sushi master, omakase loosely translates to “I’ll leave it to you.” In a setting where money is no object, letting the chef decide was designed as a chic way to take the awkwardness out of ordering.

In Australia where there’s an abundance of fresh seafood, omakase menus have experienced a recent rise in popularity. Today omakase is any series of small dishes served directly by the chef to the diner. Each part of the meal is presented on beautiful ceramics and lacquer wear, with a great —and somewhat— intimidating reverence for elegant details. It’s a chance to see a chef’s knife skills up close and get a feel for their cooking style.

Omakase menus are based on whatever is freshest at the market and can be influenced by the chef’s mood, expertise, and response to the guest. They can be slowly paced like a ceremony—hushed and reverential—but they can also be rowdy, humorous, and personal.
Here we give you 10 of the best to try in Sydney.

Yoshi’s Omakase at Nobu Crown Sydney

Crown Sydney, Level 2/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo. Open: 12–3 pm, 5:30–9:30 pm Phone: 02 8871 7188 Reservations: F&B-SYD-Nobu@crownresorts.com.au; $380 per head (including matched wine and sake). Crownsydney.com.au

Sushi Oe

16/450 Miller St, Cammeray; Tue – Sat. SMS only 0451 9709 84 E: jizakana16@gmail.com Phone: 0426 233 984 $230 per head. jizakana.com.au

Kisuke with Yusuke Morita

50 Llankelly Place, Potts Point; Tuesday – Saturday: 17:30 – 10.45 (closed Sunday/ Monday) $185-200 per head Kisukepottspoint.com

Haco 

102/21 Alberta St, Sydney. Lunch, Friday to Saturday 12 -2:00 pm Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday 5:45 pm – 8:1 5pm (closed Sunday & Mondays) P: 0408 866 285                                     E: haco@hacosydney.com.au; $150 – $210 Hacosydney.com.au

Kuon

Shop 04 2/58 Little Hay St, Sydney, Lunch: Fri-Sun 12:30 pm. Dinner  Tue-Sun 5:15 pm or 7:45 pm sittings.  Reservation via SMS at 0488 688 252; $220 per head @kuon.omakase

Sokyo 

The Darling, Level G, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont. Open dinner Monday to Thursday from 5:45 pm P: 1800 700 700 $300 per head Sokyo.com.au

Kuro

368 Kent St, Sydney; Open Tue – Wed – Thur: 6 pm Fri & Sat: 5:30 pm P: 02 9262 1580, reservations@kurosydney.com $220 per head. Kurosydney.com;

Choji Omakase

Level 2, 228 Victoria Ave, Chatswood —upstairs from Choji Yakiniku. Every Monday to Wednesday at 6.30 pm. One seating per day only. $295 per head. Chojiomakase.com.au

Gold Class Daruma

The Grace Hotel, Level 1/77 York St, Sydney; 12–2:30 pm, 5:30–9.00 pm Phone: (02) 9262 1190 M: 0424 553 611 booking@goldclassdaruma.com.au·$120 – $150 per head Goldclassdaruma.com.au

Besuto

Besuto Omakase, Sydney Place precinct, 3 Underwood Street, Circular Quay. Omakase is available to book for dinner – Tuesday to Saturday. 5:30 pm & 8pm sittings. From $250. Besuto.com.au

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is no soy and wasabi offered during my omakase meal?
Even though sushi and sashimi are being served, the chef is serving each piece of sushi so quickly and directly that the chef is applying the wasabi and soy to the sushi themselves. Watch as they brush the top of the fish with soy and dab a tiny amount of wasabi on the rice, under the fish. You should not need to add extra, and in fact, it can be insulting to the chef to add more. Bathing the bottom of the rice of your sushi in soy sauce is considered bad manners, as it is seen as detracting from the flavour of the fish.

Nobu, Sydney

Can an omakase experience accommodate my dietary needs?
Although there is often little variation once the chef has set the daily menu, some customisation is possible. Advise the restaurant when you book and remind them of allergies or aversions again as you sit down. They will let you know when you book if your allergy is possible for the chef. Japanese menus feature a lot of seafood and dashi so accommodating a no seafood request can be genuinely tricky.

What are the golden rules for chopstick etiquette?
Use your chopstick holder in between eating, rather than putting chopsticks on your plate. Don’t use your chopsticks to gesticulate or point; if offering food to someone to try, never pass food directly from your chopsticks to theirs. Rather place the food onto a small plate and let them pick it up.
Never touch communal or shared food with your chopsticks. The longer, slightly larger chopsticks are like sharing cutlery, never put these in your mouth.

Without a menu, how can I know what I am eating during omakase?
Omakase is often a no-menu situation, and you are expected to try new things. Attending an omakase experience with an open, trusting mind yields the best results.
There are Wagyu and tempura omakase that reflect the chef’s personal predilections and training, but in a standard luxury omakase, the format will include a lot of freshly caught seafood and will usually kick off with a delicate appetiser. This will be followed by a sashimi and sushi course, a savoury egg custard (chawanmushi) with meat and seafood, a cooked or blow-torched market fish, a soup course, and dessert.

Can I talk to the chef during omakase? What is the protocol?
Guests at an omakase experience are welcome to ask questions of the chef; in fact, interacting with the chef is part of the experience. It is considered polite to ask questions or inquire about the food so they can explain.

What is best to pair with omakase  in terms of drinks?
In general, wine and sake are a perfect match for omakase. Aged fish and vinegar have strong umami flavours so depending on which course you enjoy, different wine and sake will pair well. Dry chilled sake is a great choice. Amazing sakes are imported into Australia, so trust the restaurant to advise you and take you on a sake journey at the same time.  If you don’t like sake, drinking chardonnay, a crisp young riesling, or even a dry complex Riesling is also totally acceptable. All three styles help bring out the flavour of the fish. Champagne can also be good. Try a blanc de blancs— 100% chardonnay —for a great way to start the meal. As you progress, remember that sake is good for dishes with a strong taste, such as uni and eel.

Nobu, Sydney

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

The Tod’s SS25 Men’s Collection in Milan Was a Showcase of “Artisanal Intelligence”

It was also the debut men’s collection by creative director Matteo Tamburini.

By Josh Bozin 20/06/2024

Earlier this week, Tod’s presented its SS25 men’s collection at the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea (PAC) for Milan Fashion Week, where all eyes were fixed on Matteo Tamburini and his debut menswear collection as Tod’s newest creative director.

Striking “a balance between tradition and modernity”, was the former Bottega Veneta designer’s intention, and indeed his showcase offerered a spotlight on the quality, materials, and detailing that are central to the Tod’s wardrobe.

“The collection is more about subtraction rather than addition, highlighting the very elevated, timeless and relaxed materials,” says Tamburini via a statement.

Tod’s

In line with Tod’s restrained design codes, the garments presented were characterised by timelessness, unmistakable Italian flair, yet a casualness appropriate for everyday wear. Only the best leathers were used in the collection—thanks to the Pashmy project, which Tod’s unveiled in January to champion high-end Italian materials—used in creating garments like the Tod’s Bomber, the Gio Jacket, the Shirt Jacket, the Di Bag sack, as well as footwear staples, like the Tod’s T-Riviera.

Of course, the iconic Gommino driving shoe wasn’t without an update, too: you’ll find a new sabot interpretation, as well as the Bubble Gommino introduced in a new boat model with the T-bar accessory.

“Craftsmanship” was at the forefront of messaging, with chairman and chief executive officer of the Tod’s Group, Diego Della Valle, reiterating the message of honouring artisanal arts in an increasingly digital-first world.”[It’s] important to uphold artisanal intelligence, keeping under control artificial intelligence as it is now developing rapidly and powerfully,” he said via a statement.

“Individuals and artisanal intelligence at the centre, with its traditions and values, will contribute to keep artificial intelligence in check. Our Italian craftsmanship and supply chain can be an example of the combination of tradition and the new speed of artificial intelligence.”

tods.com

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Pitti Uomo’s Best-Dressed Men Cut Through the Noise With Personal Style

From vintage gems to tasteful tailoring, attendees of Florence’s biannual tradeshow brought their best sartorial selves.

By Naomi Rougeau, Lorenzo Sodi 20/06/2024

Whether or not you’re well versed in the ins and outs of Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear tradeshow in Florence that brings together buyers, press—and, naturally, a vast ostentation of peacocks—the chances are that photos from the gathering are still making their way into your newsfeed. You might even smirk at the mention of it. To be sure, you’ll encounter plenty of “overdressing” strolling through the main venues but by and large, great personal style manages to cut through the noise.

Part of what makes the Pitti scene so exciting is that menswear moves relatively slowly. It’s less about seeing something earth shatteringly new but rather gradual shifts and discovering fresh ways to put things together. Menswear regulars such as Alessandro Squarzi, owner of a considerable vintage archive that influences his Milanese boutique Fortela, can be relied upon to provide inspiration on how to make tried and true staples and silhouettes feel modern.

Speaking of new old things, vintage fashions made their way into the chat in a big way this June, whether in terms of rare finds or sustainable efforts via upcycling, fabric development and natural dyes (Paris-based De Bonne Facture achieved an ideal medium brown using coffee, for instance). At the heart of the conversation was another bona fide vintage guru Maurizio Donadi who made a case for the timelessness and democratic nature of indigo with his centuries-spanning exhibit of antique garments from around the globe.

Below you’ll find a dozen of our favorite looks from Pitti Uomo 106, lensed by our eagle-eyed street-style photographer Lorenzo Sodi. We hope they inspire.

Lorenzo Sodi

A lesson in simplicity and the power of a classic palette—good quality vintage accents such as a turquoise embellished belt buckle add interest to timeless workwear. Ray-Ban’s universally-flattering Wayfarer sunglasses are the perfect finishing touch.

Lorenzo Sodi

Sans suit and shirt, the neckerchief (of which there were many at Pitti), adds a welcome dose of colour to a white tee and relaxed jacket and proves that sometimes one choice detail is all it takes. A well-loved, slightly-too-long belt and canvas Vans contribute to the casual harmony.

Lorenzo Sodi

Whatever the weather, you’ll find Douglas Cordeaux, from Fox Brothers, looking immaculate in shirt and tie… and a suit made of one of Fox’s many fabrics. British elegance, embodied.

Lorenzo Sodi

Relaxed elegance is the foundation of the Brunello Cuccinelli brand. Here, the maestro himself shows us how it’s done in a double-breasted linen ensemble featuring a few personal flourishes.

Lorenzo Sodi

Designer Alessandro Pirounis of Pirounis offers a masterclass on the rule of three with a contemporary twist, subbing the usual jacket with an overshirt of his own design.

Lorenzo Sodi

A renaissance man takes Florence. True to his roots, US Marine veteran, Savile Row-trained tailor and photographer Robert Spangle blazes a sartorial trail that’s all his own.

Lorenzo Sodi

Cream trousers are an essential element of elegant Italian summer style. Designer Nicola Radano of Spacca Neapolis channels one of the greats (Marcello Mastroianni) in a dark polo of his own design, collar spread wide across his jacket’s lapel for a welcome retro lean.

Lorenzo Sodi

Proof of the power of tonal dressing, that can create an impactful outfit just by sticking to the same colour family. A chic ensemble and in some ways an elevated version of the double-denim look, every element is working hard in service to the whole.

Lorenzo Sodi

UK-based stylist Tom Stubbs has long been a proponent of blousy pleats, lengthy db jackets, and statement-making neck scarves and here, in vintage Armani, he embodies the louche, oversize look that many designers are just now catching up on.

Lorenzo Sodi

A tailor splitting his time between Berlin and Cologne, Maximilian Mogg is known for his strong-shouldered, architectural suiting. Yet in Mogg’s hands, particularly with this non-traditional colour scheme, the effect is always modern and youthful.

Lorenzo Sodi

If Max Poglia’s relaxed Hawaiian shirt and suit combo is any indication, summer has truly arrived. But it’s an excellent example of how to wearing tailoring in more casual fashion. This cream db would look perfect with shirt and tie at a wedding in August and just as chic here with slippers and a laid-back shirt.

Lorenzo Sodi

Another example of how tailoring can be laid-back and breezy for summer, from a dude who looks no stranger to enjoying the best of the warmer months. Jaunty pocket square, sandals, untucked linen shirt…go forth and emulate.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected