Starting a Rolex Collection? Here Are the 5 Models You Should Buy Now

Here are the reigning kings of the crown.

By Paige Reddinger 05/06/2019

It’s no secret that Rollie’s have a real ROI, but getting your hands on the right crown can be like capturing the Iron Throne. Unless you’re one of Rolex’s most loyal customers—that means buying multiple pieces a year, and not entry-level DateJusts—you will probably have to pick yours up on the secondary market. Enter Paul Altieri, founder of the new and pre-owned timepiece e-tail portal Bob’s Watches, who is known for being a trusted Rolex dealer as well as a collector in his own right.

We asked Altieri for his recommendations on the best Rolex models to collect, from a beginner’s piece to the reference that will affirm your status as a collecting king. You can find at least one of each at Bob’s Watches—except, of course, the one that belongs in Altieri’s own vault.

Submariner 116610

Rolex Submariner Ref. 116610
Courtesy of Bob’s Watches

If you’re just dipping your toes into Rolex collecting, you may want to dive into your horological journey in a more attainable realm. Here we have a Submariner Ref. 116610—a classic in the Rolex roster and one that has been gaining in popularity even in the midst of Daytona mania.

“It’s the iconic model, it’s still what Rolex is known for, even with the Daytona, the GMT and all the other models they’ve got, the Submariner is still the quintessential Rolex,” says Altieri. “Several months ago you couldn’t even buy one—the local dealers were completely sold out of them. Even in the secondary market, they were selling for over retail.”

The Ref. 116610 retails for a relatively reasonable $12,260, but like all covetable Rolex models you likely can’t walk into your local retailer and buy one. The good news is you can still buy one under $14,300—for now.

Pepsi GMT-Master II

Rolex Pepsi GMT-Master II Ref. 126710
Courtesy of Bob’s Watches

For hardcore watch enthusiasts, the very mention of the Pepsi GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 might elicit a long yawn. Thanks to Instagram, this was easily the hottest watch of 2018. But for those of you just dialling in, it’s still on fire—the watch currently sells in secondary markets for double its original $13,260 retail price. The Pepsi earned its nickname for its blue and red bezel. Developed in 1955 to help Pan Am pilots keep track of time during transatlantic flights, the fourth hand can be set with the 24-hour bezel to set the second time zone. Prior to 2018, the latest Pepsi was released in white gold on an Oyster bracelet, but when the new steel version with the Jubilee bracelet came out at a more affordable price, they sold so fast they had an instant and significant return on investment.

“It’s been completely oversold now in all the local Rolex stores,” says Altieri. “There’s long waiting lists and it’s still selling for a significant premium over retail.” So how can you get your hands on one? You probably can’t—unless you’re willing to pay top dollar. “Here’s the thing: If you’re a loyal customer and you’ve bought a bunch of watches from a Rolex store and you have a good relationship with your local AD (authorized dealer) and you want to put your name in and you’re willing to wait for a long time, then yes, you can get one,” says Altieri. One of Altieri’s clients from the Midwest was able to purchase both the Pepsi and the new Daytona Ref. 116500 but…he had a 20-year-long relationship with his AD and has probably bought more than 50 Rolex watches over the course of those two decades.

Rolex Pepsi models, no matter the decade of production, go for well beyond their original retail price, so even if you can’t get a new one, a vintage model is still a great investment. This 1990 Pepsi Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16700 is only slightly more than the retail price of the brand new, but unattainable Pepsi. But if you have some extra cash to throw down (and you don’t mind that the case has been recently polished), then we recommend buying one from the Pepsi’s prime era—when it was a useful tool watch during the dawn of public aviation. This 1968 ref. steel Pepsi on a jubilee bracelet with a Mk 1 tritium dial and creamy markers and hands, for instance, still comes in less than the current model on the secondary market.

Daytona Ref. 116500

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500
Courtesy of Bob’s Watches

The Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500, introduced in 2016, was the first Daytona to feature a Cerachrom bezel—a patented Rolex ceramic material that is resistant to both scratches and ultraviolet rays. Prior to this Daytona release, the model had not received a major update since 2000, when Rolex began equipping it with its first in-house movement, the calibre 4130. It had previously come with a Zenith-made El Primero movement, which the watchmaker had used since 1988.

“I think they nailed it in terms of sizing, the dial, and the Cerachrom bezel,” says Altieri. “I think white is still a little bit more preferred over black currently, but that could change. It’s at an affordable price and it’s kind of a flashback to the 6263 model that they were making in the late ’60s and ’70s and that model has done well. So, it’s a great watch and it’s still selling for a significant premium.”

The model from the ’70s sold for around $1,500 to $3,000 and now sells for between $121,000 and $157,000. The Ref. 116500 at retail is around $18,000 (the same price for the white dial or the black dial), but is commanding prices as high as $35,000.

“When it first came out, I had customers say, ‘I’ll wait six months or a year when the prices come down,’ says Altieri. “Well, it’s been three and a half years, and prices aren’t coming down at all—they haven’t even budged.”

Rolex Skydweller with Blue Dial

Rolex Skydweller Ref. 326934
Courtesy of Bob’s Watches

“This is a fantastic watch—a lot of the real horological watch people out there were excited to see something come out from Rolex that had a complicated movement with a calendar,” says Altieri. “They made it with a blue dial and a black dial, but the blue dial is more desirable. It’s a bit more difficult to get.”

The Skydweller Ref. 326934 is a watch that has picked up in demand over time and believe it or not, Altieri says it’s harder to get than the Pepsi GMT-Master II. It’s also selling for double its original $20,000 retail price, and there’s fewer of them popping up in the secondary market because clients are holding onto them.

Vintage Daytona Gold 6241 Paul Newman

Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Ref. 6241
Courtesy of Bob’s Watches

In certain circles, this Rolex is considered a grail watch. And let’s be frank, if you’re just beginning to collect you’re likely not going to start with this million dollar baby. If you’re already looking ahead to the future however, this could be one of your end-goals in Rolex collecting.

The Ref. 6241 Daytona is known as the John Player Special because of its black-and-gold colouring that looks like the livery of a 1972 Formula One car sponsored by cigarette maker John Player & Sons. The 6241 was manufactured prior to the ’70s between 1966 and 1969 and less than 300 examples of the model in 18-karat yellow gold were ever produced.

“I bought this watch two years ago and was really happy to add it to my collection,” says Altieri. “Like almost all the watches in my collection, it found me. There is a local real estate developer in my area that bought this watch brand new at Bucherer in Switzerland. He wore it his whole life, but when he found out how much it was worth now he didn’t feel comfortable wearing it anymore. He read about my collection and knew I’d pay full value for it, so he came to see me and I bought it.”

But Altieri says there are still some that get away, like a Rolex Ref. 6536. He already owns 8 of them, but this one had a red depth rating on the dial…

If you’re fresh to the hobby of watch collecting, just be prepared that, like most watch collectors, your interest may develop into a full-blown obsession.

(And in the event that you are on the hunt for a more affordable Daytona on the eve of the 90th Monaco Grand Prix, Bob’s Watches has partnered with Sotheby’s to offer 12 references dating from as early as 1937 to 2016 and ranging in price from $15,700 to $107,000 )

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents and a creamy-taupe, vintage-inspired dial. This particular model arrives on a steel bracelet with an eggshell dial and presents as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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