How startup culture helped Zenith’s CEO chart a new path for the venerable Swiss watchmaker

CEO Julien Tornare is forging a big turnaround at the formerly sleepy LVMH brand.

By Paige Reddinger 28/11/2018

Zenith has been undergoing a serious facelift. Aiming to dust itself off and forge ahead into the 21st-century, the historic brand enlisted the maverick direction of new CEO Julien Tornare. Having spent the last 17 years growing Vacheron Constantin’s business, Tornare was tapped by watch industry titan, Jean-Claude Biver—the former president of the LVMH Watch Division—to lead Zenith in a new direction.

The new CEO is tasked with a tough turnaround at the struggling brand, but he is already making big moves—not only with new product and new avenues for sales, but also within the manufacture itself. Tornare is banking on a startup-style approach to management and corporate culture, unusual in the famously traditional and rigid watch industry. He hopes the looser culture will lure in top talent and keep valued employees from jumping ship.

We caught up with Tornare, just ahead of Zenith’s launch of its new biker-inspired Ton-Up Black timepiece, to hear about his grand plans.

You’ve been at Zenith since May 2017. What are you focusing on as you head into 2019?

Zenith has amazing history and brand culture, but it’s always been a little bit hidden because it’s been a quiet brand that’s not been so clear in its direction. Now we are working on innovation, especially with the Defy collection.

In the watch industry today, you have two categories: You have brands that are completely new and they do what they want without having to honour any history, and then you have a lot of brands that have such a long history that they become almost a prisoner of (it). I want to use our 153-year-long history to build the future. That’s one of the reasons we are developing Defy 100th of a Second, as well as the Defy Lab with the new oscillator. That’s been the new theme.

Jean-Claude Biver recently stepped down from his role. What did you learn from him in the time you were able to work under him?

When I joined, people told me that I was the first person they had ever heard of that had been hired that came from outside of his historical team. Many people told me that it wasn’t going to be easy working under him, and I have to say, from the very beginning until today we’ve had a great relationship.

I call him and get his advice, and I try to feed him with a lot of ideas and show the dynamism I’m putting into the brand. We talk more or less every two or three days. Now, of course, there has been a big change, but Mr. Biver is staying on as a chairman. The first thing I said to him was, “Mr. Biver, for me, I need you to come to the markets and meet the clients. They want to see you, so when we do events, I would love for you to still participate.” He immediately gave me a big yes with his famous smile. He really is a legend.


2018 Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride
Photo: Getty Images for Zenith Watches

What changes have you made at Zenith’s manufacture?

I had to work a lot on the atmosphere and spirit in the company and try to implement more of a contemporary, startup style of management and way of working. It’s quite unusual in the watch industry, and it’s actually working very well.

First of all, I told everyone that we need to communicate better. The manufacture at Zenith is historic, in that it was one of the first manufactures with all of the watchmaking crafts under one roof. The downside is that we have plenty of different buildings—we’re not a huge company, but we have 18 different buildings on the site. That’s quite complicated in terms of communication. We needed everyone to share ideas and communicate, so I began by organising a breakfast for a group of 30 people, which we would try to do every two weeks, and we sit together and we share ideas. In the Swiss watchmaking industry, people are quite quiet and they don’t always open up that easily. The first two or three times, I was the only one sharing my day-to-day activities. But now, they’ve started to open up and it’s a really fantastic brainstorming session.

I also turned the simple restaurant we had into more of a place where people can meet and play table tennis (ping pong), snooker, and things like this, so people can have a break and socialise with each other.

You’ve made quite a few strides with the pre-owned, e-commerce, and customisation. How do you see those markets shaping up in the future?

Second-hand timepieces have always been big in the US market. When I was in the US in 2004 or 2005, we were already talking about this trading business so it made since to move forward with it. We went with external partners, TrueFacet, for the pre-owned market initially, because they have a certain expertise and are doing it very efficiently. That doesn’t mean we won’t do it internally at some point, but you cannot do everything at the same time. I already have so many things to develop for the brand right now.

People were surprised when I signed the contract with Bamford for customization, but this guy has a huge client base and is doing a fantastic job for us. When it comes to e-commerce, we began working with MrPorter.com, JD.com, Hodinkee.com, Farfetch.com, and TMall.com in China. Eventually, we will be involved directly in pre-owned and e-commerce ourselves, but not right now.

The industry is quickly changing how its debuting new product. How do you feel about trade shows going forward?

There have been quite a few announcements recently (about brands leaving the watch trade shows). I went back to Baselworld this year for the first time in 20 years (Tornare spent the last 17 years at Vacheron Constantin, which shows at Geneva’s SIHH watch trade show). I think it needs to have some evolution. It needs to become more modern, more linked to this world. It could be a great show and a great platform. As you know, we have confirmed our presence for 2019. In the future, it will depend a lot on what’s going on.

The show needs to evolve and become more cost effective. Brands are not willing to pay crazy prices anymore. Another important point, and I really emphasise this, is that it has to be a B2C event. B2B we can do by simple meetings, via email, etc. But B2C is really important. Today, the show is charging 60 CHF per visitor, but once you get inside there’s not much to see. The booths are only open to press and retailers and some brands don’t even show their new watches on the outside of the booths. So the experience offered to a client is close to zero.

I think they should turn it into a worldwide meeting point for watch aficionados from all over the world with big events, more entertainment, and more things to do and really reveal pieces at the show that people could buy on site. Think about Art Basel—it became, in just a few years, a real brand. With Baselworld, you don’t even have the word “watch” in it. We need to have a new format.

What has it been like coming to a brand like Zenith from Vacheron Constantin?

It’s different and it’s not that different. Vacheron Constantin is more established, but when I started working there in December of 1999, the brand was very small size-wise. It was actually smaller than Zenith today. I think I’m bringing in all these years of experience of working on developing a brand, which are tools that I’m using at Zenith now. They are both very beautiful manufactures. They both manufacture their own movements with a long history and a long knowledge. Vacheron is much more on the classic side and wants to stay that way.

For Zenith, I believe that we need to have our feet on the heritage side, but we need to have our head in the 21st century. I strongly believe that if we want to keep the new generation interested, we need to bring something more. The Swiss watch industry tends to repeat the past and repeat the same watch complication and the same design throughout the years. You don’t want the new generation to prefer having a cell phone on their wrist instead of a watch. We have a great challenge ahead of us, but in the last five months we’ve had results that we haven’t had in eight or nine years.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents and a creamy-taupe, vintage-inspired dial. This particular model arrives on a steel bracelet with an eggshell dial and presents as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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