
AP Gave Its New Royal Oak Chronograph a Light Touch—Literally
You can start, stop, and reset the new model’s signature complication with a lot less pressure.
Powered by a minuscule engine composed of tiny springs, diminutive gears and screws so small they barely register to the human eye, the mechanical watch remains an anachronistic vestige of a pre-digital age. But for dedicated collectors, such technological obsolescence isn’t a concern. In fact, the very drawbacks of these wrist-borne machines—their reliance on a human being as an energy source, their lack of uniformity even within identical references, their temperamental tendencies—are precisely what give them their charm.
Still, the engineers at Audemars Piguet are no Luddites. What, they wondered, could be done to lend a chronograph the tactile feel of a smartphone? Such a refinement, they reasoned, would go a long way toward improving the connoisseur’s daily experience. Since the 1970s, developments in serial production and waterproofing had increased the force required to activate a chronograph pusher to roughly 1.5 kg over a travel distance of about 1 mm. Giulio Papi, Audemars Piguet’s director of watchmaking design, sought to reduce those figures dramatically—to just 300 g of force over a travel of 0.3 mm, approximately the same pressure needed to adjust the volume on an iPhone.
These next-generation pushers are one of the defining innovations of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the latest marvel in A.P.’s cutting-edge Research and Development series. At its heart is the new Calibre 8100, which debuts a reimagined reset mechanism. In place of the traditional hammer-and-heart-shaped system, it uses a patented rack-and-pinion design that harnesses stored energy to return the titanium chronograph hand to zero in a near-instantaneous retrograde motion. Coupled with a lightning-fast chronograph minute jump, the result is an exceptionally accurate and intuitive flyback chronograph.

Audemars Piguet didn’t stop there. Building upon the RD#3 from 2022, the maison incorporated a high-amplitude flying tourbillon with a titanium cage and a lighter, thinner escapement—enhancing both reliability and energy efficiency. Remarkably, all this innovation is contained within a movement measuring just 4 mm thick, despite comprising 379 individual components and 44 jewels.
Even with its technical advances, the RD#5 preserves the unmistakable DNA of a classic Royal Oak. Its Petite Tapisserie dial, rendered in deep blue, features rhodium-toned 18-karat pink-gold “bathtub” hour markers, matching white-gold hands, dual chronograph registers at three and nine o’clock, and a flying tourbillon aperture at six. The 39 mm case, crafted from titanium rather than stainless steel or gold, is paired with a bracelet that combines the same lightweight metal with bulk metallic glass—an alloy composed of 50 percent palladium and other metals that’s exceptionally resistant to corrosion and wear.
Merging classical horological artistry with 1970s aesthetics and state-of-the-art materials, the RD#5 represents a stunning technical and tactile coup—a reminder that, sometimes, analogue really is better.
Price on request
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