Carl F. Bucherer kicks off its 135th birthday celebration today by releasing a capsule collection that represents a thoroughly modern interpretation of the brand’s history.
Now in its third generation of family leadership, CFB commemorates over a century of tradition with newly reimagined variations of five of its best-selling models: the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black; the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black; the Manero Peripheral BigDate Black; the Manero Flyback Black; and the Heritage BiCompax Annual Black. Two of the timepieces—the Manero Flyback Black and Heritage BiCompax Annual Black—will become permanent fixtures in the brand’s catalogue, while the three other highly complex variations, which showcase the watchmaker’s expertise in the realm of peripheral technology, are only available in limited quantities. As the names suggest, the overriding theme of the capsule collection is an all-black appearance, achieved with forged carbon in the limited-edition models and DLC-coated stainless steel in the unlimited iterations.
Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black
The highlight of the capsule is arguably the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black. Thanks to CFB’s new COSC-certified calibre A2055, you can track every day—even in leap years—without adjustment until 2100. Visible through an exhibition caseback, the A2055 is just as handsome as it is functional, with a disc of aventurine and two small hand-engraved moons in white gold.
“The perpetual calendar complication with the correction-free indication of date, day, month, and moon phase is a great technical challenge, but it also ties in nicely with humanity’s relationship to time,” says Samir Merdanovic, Carl F. Bucherer’s chief technology officer. “Our calendar, which goes back to Pope Gregory XIII in the sixteenth century, is quirky, and when we create a mechanical watch that can handle inconsistent month lengths without correction, we watch enthusiasts get very excited. And we’ve presented it in a breathtaking design.”
Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black
Today, Carl F. Bucherer is debuting each model of its 135th anniversary capsule collection in a different city that has played a significant role in the brand’s history. The launch began in Tokyo with computer-generated influencer Imma Gram and has continued every two hours from Shanghai to Zurich then London, culminating in the release of the fifth model in New York City with fashion influencer Ryan Clark.
Available now on CFB’s website, the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black is limited to just 30 pieces and priced at approx $85,000; the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black, with 88 available models, has an approx $51,300 price tag; and the Manero Peripheral BigDate Black is available for an approx $32,000, with 188 limited-edition pieces. Alternatively, you can snag the Manero Flyback Black for approx $11,300 or the Heritage BiCompax Annual Black for approx $12,000.
Carl F. Bucherer kicks off its 135th birthday celebration today by releasing a capsule collection that represents a thoroughly modern interpretation of the brand’s history.
Now in its third generation of family leadership, CFB commemorates over a century of tradition with newly reimagined variations of five of its best-selling models: the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black; the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black; the Manero Peripheral BigDate Black; the Manero Flyback Black; and the Heritage BiCompax Annual Black. Two of the timepieces—the Manero Flyback Black and Heritage BiCompax Annual Black—will become permanent fixtures in the brand’s catalogue, while the three other highly complex variations, which showcase the watchmaker’s expertise in the realm of peripheral technology, are only available in limited quantities. As the names suggest, the overriding theme of the capsule collection is an all-black appearance, achieved with forged carbon in the limited-edition models and DLC-coated stainless steel in the unlimited iterations.
Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black
The highlight of the capsule is arguably the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black. Thanks to CFB’s new COSC-certified calibre A2055, you can track every day—even in leap years—without adjustment until 2100. Visible through an exhibition caseback, the A2055 is just as handsome as it is functional, with a disc of aventurine and two small hand-engraved moons in white gold.
“The perpetual calendar complication with the correction-free indication of date, day, month, and moon phase is a great technical challenge, but it also ties in nicely with humanity’s relationship to time,” says Samir Merdanovic, Carl F. Bucherer’s chief technology officer. “Our calendar, which goes back to Pope Gregory XIII in the sixteenth century, is quirky, and when we create a mechanical watch that can handle inconsistent month lengths without correction, we watch enthusiasts get very excited. And we’ve presented it in a breathtaking design.”
Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black
Today, Carl F. Bucherer is debuting each model of its 135th anniversary capsule collection in a different city that has played a significant role in the brand’s history. The launch began in Tokyo with computer-generated influencer Imma Gram and has continued every two hours from Shanghai to Zurich then London, culminating in the release of the fifth model in New York City with fashion influencer Ryan Clark.
Available now on CFB’s website, the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Black is limited to just 30 pieces and priced at approx $85,000; the Manero Peripheral Perpetual Calendar Black, with 88 available models, has an approx $51,300 price tag; and the Manero Peripheral BigDate Black is available for an approx $32,000, with 188 limited-edition pieces. Alternatively, you can snag the Manero Flyback Black for approx $11,300 or the Heritage BiCompax Annual Black for approx $12,000.
All roads leading to Rome, it was perhaps inevitable that the Ryder Cup, golf’s most prestigious event, would eventually swing by the Eternal City. But when the biennial event’s 44th edition, the first in Italy, gets going at Rome’s newly redeveloped Marco Simone Golf & Country Club this September, the US and European teams won’t just be competing for continental supremacy. Organisers say they’ll also be playing for the future of Italian golf.
“Golf doesn’t have huge awareness in Italy,” says Guy Kinnings, the DP World Tour’s Ryder Cup director. “It’s the 16th most popular pastime. What’s the legacy we want to leave? We want to improve that.”
It won’t be easy. According to a survey of the world’s golf courses by the R&A, one of the sport’s governing bodies, Italy has just 321 golf courses to entertain its population of 60 million, a sub-par ratio compared to mature golf nations such as England, which has 2,270 courses serving roughly the same number of people.
But according to Gian Paolo Montali, Italy’s director general of the 2023 Ryder Cup project, the plan does not start by building more courses—first, Italy needs more golfers. Montali wants 120,000 registered players by 2027, up from the 87,000 who called themselves golfers in 2015, when Italy did the unlikely and fended off bids from Germany, Austria and Spain to land the coveted event.
The Ryder Cup Trophy is pictured during Day Three of The Italian Open at Marco Simone Golf Club in Rome, Italy.Photo by Luke Walker/Getty Images
Montali also wants more golf tourists in Italy. “A person visiting Rome stays two and a half days,” he says. “When players come here to play golf, they remain here for four and a half days. If the institution understands this and Italy becomes a golf destination, it will have a very significant impact for the country.”
Rome’s climate, history, culture, food and hotels are already a draw (those staying at the Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel, can visit the city’s first and only Michelin three-star restaurant, La Pergola), but having a Ryder Cup venue just 10 miles from the Spanish Steps should attract golfers from around the world.
They’ll find a stern test of golf, with steep changes in elevation and slick, undulating greens, plus a number of risk-reward holes, such as the drivable par-4 16th, where, statistically, most matches are likely to finish. Ryder Cup courses typically assume pilgrimage status, and Italian golf will be banking on players making the trip to Marco Simone.
Montali says Italy can’t afford to miss the opportunity. “It would be stupid not to take advantage of the Ryder Cup,” he says. “It must be a jumping off point for us.”
Most owners believe their yachts deliver a one-of-a-kind experience. Sailing yacht Q takes that conviction to another level. Built by Alloy Yachts, a shipyard that no longer exists, and designed by Ed Dubois of Dubois Naval Architects, who sadly died in 2016, Q is a true limited edition that has just completed a major overhaul of the interior and systems.
The 55-metre custom-built ketch is one of the fastest sailing superyachts ever built. Originally delivered by Auckland-based Alloy in 2008 under the name Mondango, the yacht’s pedigreed build team and successful regatta career did not go unnoticed. It caught the eye of its current Danish owner, an experienced yachtsman who makes a habit out of buying performance sailing boats.
His other yacht, the Perini Navi-built Parsifal III (he also owned Parsifal I, II and IV), has proven so popular on the charter market that he rarely has the chance to sail it. Consequently, he acquired Q in 2016 with the intention of keeping it strictly private. That didn’t last long. It is available for charter through Camper & Nicholsons.
The scale of the sailboat can be seen by viewing ten crew and guests on the upper deck.
“Alloy Yachts are so well built that they’re legendary on the sailing circuit,” the owner, who wants to remain private, told Robb Report. “I sailed optimists and laser dinghies as a child, and I’ve been buying and refitting sailing boats for 30 years, but Q caught my eye with her lower profile, sleek lines and the fact she’s really fast. She’s ideal for racing.”
Among Q’s original Dubois design elements is an uncluttered deck that keeps the profile sleek. The large cockpit is also unique: It’s air-conditioned, with electric windows. It’s a feature that the owner found highly appealing. “We keep the windows open in good weather and close them down in wind. We don’t tend to use the air conditioning, but it’s nice to be able to do so,” he says.
The interior is light and contemporary with a look that is similar to the owner’s other sailing superyacht.
Most other areas of the boat, however, have undergone transitions, following two major refits in 2016 and 2021. The most significant includes large 3DI carbon sails that hoist in a matter of minutes. In flat water and 35 knots of wind, Q easily reaches 19 knots.
A heated Jacuzzi was added to the foredeck and surrounded by sunpads to form a dedicated sunbathing area. The engines and generators have also been refurbished, and the exterior received a full paint job. Inside, the yacht was stripped back and restyled in a similar style to Parsifal III’s Rémi Tessier-designed interior.
The captain sailing Q.
“We had a Danish designer who assisted us with Q, though we incorporated a lot of ideas from Rémi, who we remain friends with after all these years,” said the owner.
All furniture was refurbished, while the design team added dark-wood veneers and custom-built Fendi sofas. A more reliable, energy efficient air-conditioning system was installed. There’s even the addition of an app-controlled TopBrewer in the main salon for barista-quality coffee.
The yacht will be available for charter.
Over the past 15 years the yacht has enjoyed active participation on the competitive regatta circuit, from Loro Piana to the St Barth’s Bucket, with the hands-on owner at the heart of the action.
Most years, Q is a familiar sight in the Caribbean and Mediterranean. After this year’s Bucket, Q embarks on a rigorous sailing schedule that will take the boat through the Panama Canal to cruise the Galapagos Islands before settling in French Polynesia for the summer. The owner’s 12-day Galapagos itinerary takes in drift dives, tender rides through sea caves and a trip to Punta Suarez, the only Waved Albatross nesting ground in the world. The French Polynesian itinerary remains dependent on charter enquiries.
The transom opens to reveal a large swim platform.
The yacht’s drop-down transom creates a large swim platform with a ladder for easy access to the water. It’s a great way to enjoy the selection of “healthy toys” on board, from kayaks and Seabobs to a sailing dinghy and diving gear.
The owner’s favourite place to be is the aft deck, which has a projector installed on the mizzen boom for a home-cinema feel. It’s another detail added during the refit to give the yacht a personalised touch, though now that Q proves so irresistible with charter guests, a third sailing yacht acquisition could be on the horizon.
Unlike in the natural world, where profound complexity often expresses itself within elegant design—think of the Fibonacci spiral found in a sunflower’s centre—the modern automotive landscape is mostly an expanse of mass-market homogeneity that has taken the form right out of function. Pagani Automobili, however, remains synonymous with exquisite engineering and artisanship. Christopher Pagani, head of marketing and son of founder Horacio Pagani, explains what fuels the boutique Italian automaker’s approach and why its latest model—the 864 hp Utopia hypercar, which starts at just under $2 million, is limited to 99 examples and sold out a full year before launch—is a bit of a maverick.
Describe the ethos of Pagani.
We consider it a combination of art and science. It’s a philosophy that dates back to Leonardo da Vinci, who my father first read about when he was 12 or 13 years old and who he still studies on a daily basis. As for the other main pillars of the brand, it’s definitely the fact that every car we do here in Modena is an extension of the client. Then, we develop our cars to be at the pinnacle of technology found in the market.
When you say “an extension,” how much of the client factors into each production?
The goal of my father has always been to find the excitement in the client. When you build such a small amount of cars per year, you can really spend time with your clients and understand their hobbies, their personality. The more you listen, the more you’re able to translate that emotion to the car.
What was the inspiration for the new Utopia? And how long did it take to develop?
It was very important for us to create something that was still using the internal-combustion power train, so it has a V-12 engine without any hybrid system. And one of the things we always wanted to bring back was the manual transmission. The Utopia adds very smooth, clean surfaces to the body, but even though it may look like a simple design, the details of the engineering make it a very complicated car. The downforce is the same or higher than our Huayra Roadster BC, which has tons of flaps and different aero flicks. Most of the companies around us take 18 to 24 months to create a car. The Utopia took six years. It’s about challenging yourself to get the detail you really want. Next year is our 25th anniversary, and this is our third model.
Christopher Pagani, son of the eponymous marque’s founder Horacio Pagani, takes a moment in one of their rarefied models.
You mentioned the smoother approach to aero—how else does the Utopia differ from your previous models?
When we create a new car, we don’t carry anything over from other vehicles. The Utopia is a new way of looking at the driving experience because it’s a twin-turbo V-12 that has 1,100 Nm of torque. To manage that amount of torque in a car that weighs only 1,300 kilograms is ridiculous. And then we wanted 21-inch wheels at the front and 22-inch wheels at the back—that’s a huge tire that Pirelli created specifically for this car. The bigger tires are a design feature but also help the drive dynamics.
You said it was important that the Utopia showcased an internal-combustion engine. Are you under the same timetable for electrification as larger marques when it comes to the European Union’s emissions regulations?
We’ve been afforded more freedom than others when it comes to those rules. We recently received an update that small manufacturers can use internal-combustion engines for a far longer period before needing to go toward electrification.
Back to Leonardo da Vinci: What do you think his reaction to the Utopia would be?
When we did the launch of the Utopia, we were able to have six original drawings from Leonardo displayed next to the car. I think he’s looking at us and is very critical, like my dad. He’s not going to tell you he loves it—he’s going to smile, but that’s it.
Recently Florence hosted its bi-annual menswear gathering, Pitti Uomo, which preceded the European fashion weeks and ushered in a solid fortnight of collective preening as style-obsessed men gathered from around the globe, usually for business but increasingly in the hope of being papped by street-style photographers. Veteran snapper Jamie Ferguson was on-hand to capture some of the sharpest looks to be seen.
Pitti Uomo is ostensibly a trade fair, where international brands gather for a few days to display their wares and take orders for the year ahead, as fashion editors mingle and discover new labels. But, it’s also a useful barometer for what ‘real men’ are wearing as Pitti tends to attract reporters, buyers and manufacturers, who live and breathe menswear, but are less engaged with high fashion.
It isn’t really the place for trend-spotting, then, although you’ll see a few clear themes in Ferguson’s photography. Rather, Pitti is an opportunity to observe and reflect on how well-dressed men are carrying themselves, and what kind of clothes are speaking to them. Here are some of the things we learned during Robb Report’s flying visit.
The ‘70s Are Still In
Jamie Ferguson
This outfit has an unmistakable whiff of the 1970s about it, but given the decade has been influencing menswear (particularly tailoring) for the last few years, that’s no bad thing. The vintage tan textured-leather coat and suede quilted gilet look sleek together, complementing rather than contrasting, making two statement pieces that bit easier to wear. The straight, wide-but-not-too-wide pants add a sense of swagger, and in light tan, harmonise with the rest of the rig. “I like seeing something a bit more directional at Pitti,” Ferguson says of this look. “A long coat and gilet are both menswear staples, but it’s interesting to see a guy dressing like this with leather and suede, rather than tweed and flannel.”
Beige Ain’t Boring
Jamie Ferguson
Brunello Cucinelli can always be relied upon to provide new and interesting takes on layering, and here signor Brunello’s chic ensemble plays on pale neutrals. Off-white needlecords sit with a dove grey, almost oatmeal sport coat with mottled brown buttons that pick up his biscuit-coloured gilet. Beneath, the white shirt reflects the pants. True to form, this ensemble is all about subtle tonal shifts between trouser, jacket and gilet.
You Need a Duffle Coat Next Autumn
Jamie Ferguson
Duffles were abundant. The coat has been around since the mid-15th century, but today it’s most often associated with the British Royal Navy. With its coarse melton-wool cloth, unlined construction, hood and toggled front, it was standard issue for sailors during the First and Second World Wars. At Pitti, duffle coats were layered over relaxed tailoring, or used to give casual outfits a down-to-earth aesthetic. This earthy brown number looks great paired with a plaid overshirt and chunky rolled-up jeans.
Playing With Texture Never Fails
Jamie Ferguson
To prove the point, here’s another duffel. What’s interesting about this look, though, is the focused colour palette. Really, there is just mid-grey, tan and chocolate brown on show here, but they’re brought to life with a healthy dose of texture. The melton coat sits over a flecked tweed suit—contrasting the matte outerwear with mottled textures beneath. Both these pieces are lifted with a suitably hairy Shetland sweater, featuring tones that tie into both the coat, the beret and suede shoes. In darker colours, this outfit would look dowdy, but our man here has got his shades just right.
Keep It Casual (Sort of)
Jamie Ferguson
Wearing casual jackets over suiting is an age-old Pitti Uomo trope, but accessories designer Max Poglia, seen here on the left with designer and vintage expert Alessandro Squarzi of Fortela, has perfected the formula. “You see looks like this all the time,” explains Ferguson. “Usually, the guy will overdo it—he’d be wearing that coat, and then have a tie, a cowboy hat and a poncho too. I love Max’s restraint here. It’s just a nice suit, western shirt and an awesome vintage coat over the top.” As a side note, pale-blue denim and chambray western shirts seemed as popular as ever at Pitti, with good reason—they’ll go with almost anything.
Less Is More
Jamie Ferguson
With its navy-on-navy layering and subtle cream shirt, this outfit says a lot—but doesn’t shout. “This image epitomizes what I like about menswear, right now,” Ferguson explains. “I rate the classicism of the button-down shirt and tie. I like that he’s in a well-cut double-breasted jacket, with a little bit of interest in the brooch (a boutonniere or pocket square would be too much), but then he’s layered a casual coat over the top. Everything about this is just quietly sophisticated.”
Go Big or Go Home
Jamie Ferguson
Oversizing is a high-fashion trend that’s creeping into mainstream menswear—jackets are getting bigger and more generous, and so too pant widths. This character got his oversized proportions just right. “He was a small guy, but I love how he’s played around with larger proportions. His outfit didn’t swallow him, or make him look short,” says Ferguson. “It’s hard to experiment with proportions when you have a smaller frame, but he nailed it.”
Statement Prints Have a Place
Jamie Ferguson
It takes strength of character to rock an overcoat like this. This guy’s commitment to Navajo print is impressive. So too are the coat’s details. It looks to be a polo coat, with its belt, patch-and-flap pockets, cuffed sleeves and popped collar. The precise pattern matching across the coat’s back-seam and through the collar are signs that this was a serious investment piece. Beyond its obvious wow factor, the colours are interesting, too. Chocolate, caramel and beige serve as reminders than tonal brown style is here to stay, while crimson seems to be a popular accent shade right now.
It’s Time to Buy a ‘Lunch Suit’
Jamie Ferguson
It’s no great secret that men’s tailoring has been gently morphing—not so much in its silhouette or proportions, but in its sensibility. No longer the preserve of formal dressing, more and more stylish men are investing in casual suits as a lifestyle choice—to wear to smart events, gallery openings and dinners out. British tailor George Marsh, of Speciale, coined the phrase “lunch suits” to describe the relaxed, dressed-down two-pieces he likes to make for his clients, and this corduroy number from J.Mueser is a good example. Chase Winfrey wears it with a breezy attitude—popped collar and all. The Barbour Gamefair jacket is vintage, and its longer length makes it a great choice to layer over tailoring.
Functionality Is Everything
Jamie Ferguson
“He has really leaned into his practical, military, kind-of ‘gorpcore’ aesthetic,” Ferguson says of fellow photographer, Robert Spangle, who served in the Recon Marines in a previous life (he also trained as a tailor on Savile Row). “The amount of straps, buckles, zips and clips in this picture looks crazy, but when you see Rob in action, you realize it all has a purpose and works.” Spangle came straight to Pitti from Ukraine, and arrived wearing clothes that he’d been wearing in the guise of war photographer. “His outfit reminded me that menswear has to fulfill its function first and foremost,” Ferguson adds. “Rob makes super-functional clothes look incredibly stylish. This look was eye-catching in a sea of tailoring, but felt very true to him, which is something we should all aim for when we get dressed.”
Hydrofoils have been around for more than a century, but Lazzarini is hoping to make them bigger and better than ever before.
The Italian studio, known for floating all manner of disruptive designs, has just unveiled a new concept that could become one of, if not the, largest foiling yachts in the world if built. The christened Plectrum, will be equipped with giant wings that allow her to “fly” across the seas at blistering speeds.
Foiling technology dates back to the 1900s, but today appears on electric powerboats, surfboards and even waterborne bicycles. Foils are also a big part of competitive sailing. In fact, Plectrum takes design cues from the radical new class of foiling monohulls competing in the America’s Cup. The AC75s are considered the fastest, most extreme vessels since the race started in 1851.
At the stern lies a swim platform and a garage.
Instead of being pushed by the wind like the sailboats, however, the new superyacht will be propelled by three motors capable of 5,000 hp each. Lazzarini claims Pectrum could reach 75 knots at full tilt, with the foils lifting her up and out of the water for a smooth ride and minimal drag. The studio also says she can run on hydrogen, though the technology isn’t there just yet.
“We like to remember that in 1964, shipbuilding was already capable of similar vessel construction,” the studio said in a statement. Indeed, America’s first hydrofoil ship, USS Plainview, was laid down in 1964 and launched in ‘65. “This different superyacht configuration will allow much faster travel than conventional ships of a similar size.”
Crafted from a mix of lightweight carbon and composite, the sleek vessel is finished in a striking orange hue. Inside, the living quarters are split across four decks and include six guest cabins, plus one owner’s suite. Outside, the bow is fitted with a helipad, while the aft deck sports a large beach club with a pool. Amidships, there is a garage for two tenders. There’s also a garage at the stern for a car and water toys.
Although Plectrum is still a concept at this stage, Lazzarini Design says the yacht can be built on request for roughly $122 million.
With Valentine’s Day very nearly upon us, there’s no time like the present to shop for, well, presents — especially those of the bejewelled variety. You won’t find any hearts in the jewellery selection below, but that doesn’t mean our V-Day wish list lacks sweetness and romance. Just remember: If you’re looking to give your beloved a ring, understand the wider implications of that gesture and proceed accordingly. Happy gifting!
Chopard Happy Diamonds Watch
Chopard
In keeping with Chopard’s pioneering commitment to responsible sourcing, the jeweller’s new Happy Diamonds Icons watch comes in a 32 mm case made of white gold that’s been traced, tracked, and verified to come from ethical sources. Yet that’s not the only signature element in the piece. The brand’s trademark loose, bezel-set diamonds slide beneath the dial in a sight that’s guaranteed to mesmerize.
If you’re in search of classic diamond earrings, but studs feel too basic and hoops too casual, Harry Winston offers the perfect, chic-but-not-flashy option with its Winston Cluster, a spray of pear-and marquise-shaped diamonds artfully arranged in ear clusters that are perennially on-point, day or night.
The fetching gold chain that anchors this Triple Honey necklace by New York-based Deborah Pagani features a trendy curb link, but it’s the three bezel-set pink tourmalines evenly spaced around the collar that elevate this bold 1980s-esque style from simple to sophisticated.
The pink opals that cap the finial ends of this 18-karat gold open cuff by Los Angeles-based Emily P. Wheeler aren’t the only unconventional details that set the bracelet apart from the many similar styles on the market. Bands of pink enamel and scatterings of diamonds lend the piece an artsy, just-sparkly-enough flair.
In the fall, Olivier Reza, son of the gem dealer and master jeweller Alexandre Reza, relocated his family’s storied high jewellry business from Paris’ Place Vendôme to New York City. To coincide with that move, the company introduced a digital which includes pieces priced over $5 million. While the pink sapphire crescent-shaped earrings studded with diamond discs seen here retail for a much more modest sum, they are emblematic of Reza’s bold new direction. And perfectly suited to lovers of haute joaillerie with a fiercely unconventional aesthetic.
Tiffany & Co.’s celebrated new Tiffany Lock collection, a unisex ode to togetherness and inclusivity, is centred on ID-style bracelets with a deluxe hardware vibe. Heralded as the luxury jeweller’s most important introduction in decades, the bangle features an innovative clasp that mimics the functionality of a padlock, albeit one smothered in diamonds.
A beguiling blue opal from Lightning Ridge, the legendary Queensland mine whose black and white opals are standard bearers for the gem, forms the heart of this striking necklace by Australian-born Katherine Jetter. The designer, now based in Boston and Nantucket, where she runs a jewelry salon called The Vault, has framed the gem with a surround of white diamonds set in 18k gold electrified by a hot pink E-coating. The effect is nothing short of sublime.
For her contribution to Sotheby’s first groundbreaking “Brilliant & Black” exhibition last fall, the Nigeria-born, London-based diamond jeweller Thelma West created this swinging pair of Asscher-cut diamond ear pendants, set in a memorable combination of rose gold and brown ceramic. Dramatic yet minimal, West’s work is a spellbinding example of what happens when excess (in this case, more than 8 carats of diamonds) meets restraint.
Melissa Kaye takes the tennis bracelet up a notch or three with this graceful display of perfect symmetry. With more than 6 carats of diamond encircling the wrist, the wearer of this piece is bound to feel as if they’ve aced it.
If you plan to pop the question or celebrate a milestone anniversary on Valentine’s Day, this vintage Art Deco ring set with an 18.86-carat centre diamond is guaranteed to earn you (and your beloved) bragging rights for years, if not decades, to come. Acquired from the estate of a renowned A-list Holly wood actor (whose name will be revealed upon purchase), the ring is set in platinum and accented with 46 European cut diamonds on knife edge shoulders that buttress the prong setting. We do!
The news items have looked a little dire the last couple months. Headlines have warned us of a Champagne shortage—casting doubt on our New Year’s Eve and Valentine’s Day toasts. And yet, we couldn’t help thinking the panic was little more than a clever marketing ploy by the world’s most famous wine region, combined with a news media in love with getting us all worked up. So we wanted to do a little digging ourselves, to sort fact from fiction on the current state of our Champagne supply.
Now, there’s good reason to worry about our Champagne going dry, and we’re not talking brut. There is less bubbly, and the problem began with a miscalculation during a time of crisis.
Fearing a global drop in demand for Champagne during the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, grape harvests in 2020 were limited by the Comité Interprofessional de vin de Champagne, the trade group representing Champagne growers and producers. The 20 percent mandatory decrease in quantity was enacted to prevent a glut of Champagne during a potential market slump, which as we now know did not occur. Wine lovers drank more during the pandemic than ever before, causing an increase in sales of 64 percent from 2020 to 2021, with continued sales growth in 2022. A total of 326 million bottles of Champagne were shipped around the world in 2022, an uptick of 1.6 percent over the prior year.
David Chatillon, president of the Union des Maisons de Champagne and co-president of the Comité Champagne, explained, “Champagne, as the supreme wine of celebrations, has been the natural choice of the world’s consumers as they rejoiced at the end of lockdowns and rediscovered a taste for parties, for going out and for travelling.”
The 2022 harvest was solid.
So far, so good. Except that non-vintage Champagne is made with base wine from several vintages, and the regulated decrease in production in 2020 followed by a lower-than-normal harvest in 2021 due to weather conditions has led to a reduction in base wine stores. Without large quantities of prior vintage wine stored in tanks, ongoing production capacity of NV Champagne is limited, so Champagne houses have been holding back releases to offer a steady, if reduced, supply going forward. And the escalation in sales overall during the last year means that there may well be less to go around this year and into 2024. A strong 2022 harvest helped to increase the amount of base wine, but the resulting Champagne is at least two years away from release.
As Gilles Morisson de la Bassetière, CEO of Champagne de Venoge pointed out to Robb Report, “Sales in 2021 and 2022 were larger than what we put in the cellar.Andeven though the harvest was better in 2022, we won’t release those wines before 2025, so 2023 and 2024 are going to be tight.”
Franck Volleraux, chef du cave and co-owner of Champagne Volleraux told Robb Report, “Unfortunately, very bad weather during the 2021 season lessened the yield, creating strong tension in the markets. Despite a very good 2022 harvest, Champagne sales remain very strong and the 2022 harvest will barely cover this year’s releases.”
Volleraux further stated, “Sales were good in 2022. There are several factors that come into play: stronger global demand, consumers no longer hesitate to open a bottle of Champagne more regularly and people want to have fun. We tried to meet the demand of our customers and partners, but we chose to restrict volumes and we experienced some stock shortages on certain items.”
At Champagne Henri Giraud, Emmanuelle Giraud, CEO and 13th generation family sees both sides of the of the news emanating from the region. She pointed out to Robb Report, “Champagne demand is huge since the pandemic. It moved to another category, from being a ‘celebration wine’ to an ‘aperitif wine,’ meaning that wine drinkers are now pouring a glass of French bubbly before dinner rather than waiting for a special occasion.” However, Giraud and other houses are also expanding business opportunities by increasing the amount of Ratafia Champenois production. This style of fortified wine (akin to Port or Sherry) is made by adding brandy that has been distilled from Champagne to still base wine.
Champagne sales have boomed as drinkers don’t wait for special occasions to pop bottles.
As Giraud explained, “At Champagne Henri Giraud, we could not fulfill all the orders in 2022 but we had the chance to replace this Champagne shortage by a new offer, which is Ratafia Champenois. It is also going crazy worldwide. In fact, in 2022, it was a chance for our partners around the globe to discover our Ratafia.”
While individual producers may be running low on stock, Charles Goemaere, director of the Comité Champagne, put the situation into a regional perspective, telling Robb Report, “Contrary to what can be read here and there, there is no risk of a shortage of Champagne on the markets. The ‘interprofessional reserve,’ which is a tool much appreciated by the people of Champagne, made it possible to compensate for the harvest deficit in 2021. With the . . . 2022 harvest, Champagne has brought in very significant quantities of very fine grapes which will make it possible to produce the wines that will be put on the market in a few years and to reconstitute the interprofessional reserve. Overall, Champagne stocks, including the interprofessional reserve, at the end of 2022 were estimated at nearly 1.5 billion bottles, more than enough to meet demand.”
In short, while not all the news coming out of Champagne is bad, we wouldn’t put our search for a particular bottle off too long (i.e., make sure to pick up those bubbles before February 14). And as long as none of us starts hoarding, there should be enough Champagne to go around throughout the rest of year. Who wants to save it all for holidays and special occasions anyway?
Connections drive the modern world.
Led by technology, contemporary communication – notably its effectiveness and power — starts and ends with the right equipment.
Enter NETGEAR and what is its most advanced premium WiFi system — Orbi WiFi 6E. What that means, in broad terms, is exclusive access to the all-new 6 GHz ‘superhighway’ and an opportunity to turbocharge WiFi connections with unprecedented speeds (cue smoother streaming and superior WFH environments).
With flawless whole home coverage of up to 835 square metres, backed by speeds of up to 10.8 Gbps, and support for more than 200 possible devices (security cameras, TVs and every other smart home device), this represents the type of innovation, reliability and unparalleled performance synonymous with NETGEAR.
Further, industry-leading services — including NETGEAR Armor which provides your family’s WiFi with an automatic shield of protection for all connected devices — ensure your network remains safe and secure without sacrificing performance.
A slick and appealing bit of kit that thankfully doesn’t ‘intrude’ like so many of its ilk, the Orbi Quad-Band Mesh WiFi 6E System of router and two satellites is both discreet and elegant in its sophisticated design. Time, might we suggest, that you got yourself connected to the ultimate WiFi experience.
Bremont is taking flight. A collector of the British watchmaking company is putting his faith behind the brand with a serious new investment. Billionaire hedge fund manager, Bill Ackman—along with Bremont’s existing investor, private equity firm Hellcat LP—just put $83 million into the company with intentions to expand its footprint.
“Nick and I are thrilled that Bill has moved from collector to investor, joining our long-standing shareholder, Hellcat, as partners in Bremont,” said brothers and Bremont founders Nick and Giles English, in a statement on Monday. “This new capital will enable us to invest in marketing, distribution, and talent. This is not just a boost for Bremont, but also for Britain. The British watch industry is the birthplace of some of the most important timekeeping innovations, including the perpetual calendar, and we are delighted to continue our country’s history of manufacturing and innovation through the global growth of Bremont.”
Nick English, Ronnie Wood and Giles English
The charismatic English brothers have already been widely known for their marketing skills. Having grown up restoring and flying WWII-era planes with their father, the duo capitalized on their knowledge of aviation, as pilots themselves, along with their interest in watches by launching interesting initiatives such as creating timepieces for over 400 military units around the globe and the exclusive provider of watches to the British Ministry of Defense. A recent preview for the press of its new Supernova watches was held aboard the HMS Queen Elizabeth, a British aircraft carrier and fleet flagship of the Royal Navy, while it was briefly stationed in New York City’s Hudson River, highlighting the brothers’ high-level connections in the UK They’ve even collaborated on watches with Ronnie Wood of the Rolling Stones and Nick English made a cameo in Kingsman: The Secret Service, the film franchise focused on British secret service agents for which Bremont made watches to appear on the big screen.
Co-founder of Bremont Nick English in Kingsman: The Secret ServicePhoto: Courtesy of Bremont
In terms of production, however, Bremont has already been in expansion mode. Just 18 months ago, it opened its new manufacture, called The Wing, in Henley. The new facility also marked a historical moment for the UK, becoming the first business in over 50 years to manufacture mechanical movements on a large scale within the country. According to the company, the opening of The Wing along with several new global boutique openings has driven a record annual revenue growth of 28 percent in Bremont’s recent financial year.
The company is known for making sports watches—with an aviation bent, of course—ranging in price from $4,891 up to $35,489 for special limited editions. But given that, in the statement above, the English brothers highlighted the perpetual calendar as an important part of British history, one wonders if they might be planning some high complications in the future. What is definitely in the plans is to further expand in the US, including new boutiques. There will also be a focus on “wholesale expansion, enhanced JV partnerships and greater brand visibility,” according to the company.
Alpine is shifting its attention from premium audio components to changing the way we work and camp.
The German company showed up at last week’s CMT camping showcase in its home country with a stunning concept called the Cross Cabin. The futuristic van features a versatile interior packed with everything you need to work and play.
The Cross Cabin’s main draw is its interior. With remote work having changed the way some of us live our lives, Alpine wanted to create a camper van that would help foster productivity no matter where an adventure takes you. The van, which was designed for two, has a pair of distinct workstations, so you and your travel buddy can work at the same time. It is, in the company’s own words, a new kind of “Workation” vehicle.
The Alpine Cross Cabin’s front workstation
Each of the Cross Cabin’s workstations has a look inspired by Japanese minimalism, according to the company. The first space, which is located just behind the driver and passenger seats, is a combination work and dining area. It has a kitchenette integrated into its sliding passenger door that you can use to prepare meals in and out of the vehicle. The larger rear space, meanwhile, is lined with bamboo ribs that keeps shelving, lighting and an Alpine audio system out of sight. Its tatami mat floor also houses a large pop-up table that can be used for work or eating and its two integrated benches can be converted into a sleeping area at night. The van is equipped with a solar-assisted 12-kWh electrical system that can keep everything running for up to three days, as well as a 4G/LTE cellular antennae and a high-speed mobile router to meet all your communication needs.
Alpine didn’t release technical info about the vehicle itself, but we do know that the Cross Cabin is built on the bones of the Ford Transit van, though it’s unclear if it’s the standard commercial version or the new camper variant. It’s also possible it could be based on the battery-powered E-Transit, like last week’s Winnebago eRV2 concept van.
The rear workstation can be converted into a sleeping area at night
Unfortunately, it doesn’t sound like Alpine has any plan to become a vehicle manufacturer anytime soon. The company did say it plans to take the concept to other tradeshows this year and plans to use the feedback it generates to inform future RV products. Let’s just hope they eventually team up with someone else to turn the concept into a reality.
The Flying-V, an experimental aircraft that promises significantly greater fuel efficiency over more conventional commercial jet designs, is moving towards a larger, more detailed version since the scaled, 10-foot model took flight in 2020 in Germany.
The Flying-V was designed as a fuel-efficient, long-range aircraft in which the passenger seating, fuel tanks and baggage hold are built into the wings. The aircraft will eventually have a 214-foot wingspan. Research shows that the unusual design stands to gain up to 20 percent better fuel efficiency than an Airbus A350 jetliner, considered today’s most advanced design. At full scale, the Flying-V would seat 315 passengers in two classes.
The latest scale model shows the radical wing design.Courtesy TU Delft
“We’re working on an updated version to improve its design,” says Justus Benad, the Flying-V’s chief engineer and faculty member at Delft Technical University (TU Delft) Aerospace Engineering department in the Netherlands. “We currently have ongoing research projects on aerodynamics, structural engineering, the noise of the aircraft and how it behaves in flight.”
The university’s blended-wing aircraft concept has financial and technical support by KLM Airlines. The Flying V was flown eight times last year from a German airbase, with the support of a team from Airbus, and there are plans for more test flights this year.
The model during flight tests in Germany.Courtesy TU Delft
Benad says data from the test flights are used to “feed simulators” for the aircraft. KLM pilots are now flying the unusual aircraft in simulation mode. “It flies very well—like a normal jet,” he says. “Everything we’ve done so far proves to us that it’s a viable and more efficient aircraft.”
The design actually started about a decade ago when Benad was an intern at Airbus in a department looking at alternative wing configurations. “They’re still tied to the project and have assisted us with the flight-campaign model,” says Benad.
This diagram shows the seating arrangements in two passenger classes as well as space for cargo.Courtesy TU Delft
Currently, the Flying-V program has a permanent staff as well as graduate students working on it. The long-term plans are to move from the simulators to wind-tunnel testing to prove the aircraft’s efficiency, and then build a mockup of the cabin. Eventually, a full-scale version will be built for testing.
Future versions of the Flying V could also be configured with hydrogen propulsion. “They could integrate the hydrogen tanks easily into the shape of the aircraft,” says Benad.
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