Penfolds’ French Connection

We’re in the Médoc, to experience Penfolds’ first ever French wines and discover what such moves mean for its global ambitions.

By Richard Clune 26/09/2022

It’s all quintessentially, wonderfully French. An outdoor setting splayed long atop lush grass and under the expansive reach of historic oak trees, a white-shuttered neo-Baroque château anchoring the setting. Jazz notes from a nearby quartet carry along a warm June breeze as an elegant summer menu of langoustine and lamb is presented, one that naturally extends to dessert and cheese courses.

It’s all quintessentially, wonderfully French. That is, except, for what’s being poured—stamped labels of familiarity, which proudly read: Penfolds.

It doesn’t make sense—an Eden Valley riesling, Coonawarra cabernet- shiraz, 2010 Grange magnum—until it does. Because we’re here, an hour from Bordeaux, on the outskirts of the famed Saint-Julien appellation, to raise our well-filled crystal glasses to a bold new venture: Penfolds’ push into the historic heart of fine wine, la belle France.

The aforementioned pile is Château Belgrave, a magnificent manor, certainly one of the Médoc’s finest, and a label of renown that falls under the control of winemakers Dourthe, with whom Penfolds has created this Franco-Australien debut with the release of the 2019 Penfolds II Cabernet Shiraz Merlot.

“It’s two—as in two winemakers, two cultures, two hemispheres, two varieties,” Penfolds chief winemaker, the gregarious and charming Peter Gago, tells Robb Report.

The blend very much epitomises the coming together of these geographically opposed—if equally respected—wine regions. Penfolds II, which sports an elevated silver and red label, melds the Old and New worlds by marrying cabernet sauvignon (59 per cent) and merlot (12 per cent) from Bordeaux with a spark of South Australian shiraz (29 per cent).

In the world of winemaking, you never truly know what will arrive. Sure, those at the wheel, like Gago and his French counterpart, Dourthe’s chief winemaker Frédéric Bonnaffous, have a fair idea of expectations. But there is never a guarantee, and often, a few surprises.

“We knew it would be nice, but we didn’t know it would be so nice,” states a chuffed Bonnaffous. And he’s right— it’s a fine dance of balance and depth and, excitingly, expected to grow and further intensify its appeal with age.

The French component that informs Penfolds II was made at two Dourthe-owned wineries, and then transported in stainless steel tanks by air to be blended and bottled—after 18 months in French and American oak—at Penfolds’ Nuriootpa winery in South Australia.

“Straightaway I can say that it’s blended and bottled in Australia—because Frédéric would be going to jail if we bottled it in France,” offers Gago—semi-jokingly given the strict laws surrounding the bottling of foreign wine on French soil.

It was Essence de Dourthe that led to Penfolds II. Because it was this rare and exclusive drop (no more than 6,000 bottles produced per vintage, made from a heady blend of various standout Dourthe vines from a variety of château) that pushed Gago towards the winemaker and what he viewed as a willingness to experiment.

“They are a group who are quite worldly, making this blend that was well accepted but also quite contradictory to what things are about in Bordeaux— so that certainly sent up a flare.”

A “what if” was thrown out (around 2013, however no one seems too sure of the initial French timetable), one that ultimately led to today’s extended table under the trees, and a first public pouring of Penfolds II ($500).

The new wine is, in fact, but one label in Penfolds’ new French playbook. Because it sits alongside an equally exciting release, 2019 Penfolds FWT 585 ($120). FWT translates to “French wine trial”, and it’s precisely that — a tight “test” of what Penfolds can do with French grapes on French soil, a blend (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot) from the Médoc’s top terroirs, and which was led on the ground by Penfolds winemaker Emma Wood.

“This is about curiosity, it’s about experimentation,” offers Wood. “And it’s not about us competing with French wines, it’s about making a ‘Penfolds wine’ in France.”

While Penfolds and France hold a hand in history—former chief winemaker Max Schubert was inspired to create Grange after a trip to Bordeaux in 1950—it’s California that’s heavily referenced in regard to the new French bottles. Specifically, the Napa Valley program that Penfolds went after from the late ’80s (planting vine cuttings from Magill Estate and Kalimna vineyards in Stateside soils), culminating in last year’s debut release of the well-received Californian Collection.

“[California] was starting to pay dividends before release and the Bordeaux thing happened after that success,” says Gago. “So this wasn’t such a brave, new ‘man on the moon’ type pursuit, it was a gradation of what we were doing, an extension—albeit a leap.”

The Bordeaux moves are savvy and play across several levels—a need for grapes, a further push into greater collectability among connoisseurs, the opening of new markets and demographics and, ultimately, Penfolds positioning itself as a major global luxury brand.

Such heightened ideals were certainly on display on a final and extremely warm Bordeaux evening, with Penfolds taking
the keys to the historic Palais de la Bourse, a stunning series of buildings, conceived by Louis XV’s principal architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel, which date to 1730, and overlook the fast-flowing Garonne River. It’s as grand as imagined—a stop on the Bordeaux tourist trail. And on this night it belonged solely to the Australian brand.

The lavish evening was constructed to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the acclaimed 1962 Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Kalimna Shiraz. That numerous bottles of the 60-year-old tipple were opened (following a heady list of other astute players: including 2008 Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz, 2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon, 1990 Grange, among others) was quite something. Only 5,100 bottles were originally produced—and one recently fetched $21,552 at auction.

Doing the quick math on this pouring alone, and looking at the list of invitees in the room—the head of Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, head of Great Wine Capitals, some top French legal wine brains, the CEO of Saint-Louis Crystal—says a lot about the drive to establish Penfolds’ French flag and grow from here.

Indeed, Gago admits to further French moves already being in motion—further investment and a firm commitment to time, people, land.

“I’m not really supposed to talk about any of this… But yes, these are early days and we have real skin in the game, real investment [in France] and I see the Bordeaux project getting bigger and better.”

The smiles that filled the Palais de la Bourse that night—from French and global wine writers to those Bordeaux heavy hitters—suggested these first steps are proving fruitful. As such, Le Figaro would later praise Penfolds in a glowing review of Gago and what’s being produced.

Still, some collective eyebrows have been quizzically raised at home, questioning the offshore agenda of Australia’s most successful ever winery.

“If this works then everyone wins, everyone involved from the grower right along the line,” offers Gago. “And the thing is, we’re not abandoning Australia, we continue to plant vineyards in Australia. Do this right and it’s a win, win, WIN for all.”

Prior to the new French releases that inform the 2022 Penfolds Collection, the brand partnered with the Reims-based champagne house Thiénot on the 2020 release of three 2012 vintage champagnes (Chardonnay Pinot Noir Cuvee, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs) to mark Penfolds’ 175th anniversary. At the time, no outsiders knew about the new French plans furtively taking shape in the background. But that bubbly release, well, it signalled intent and certainly pushed those luxurious ideals that have come to frame many of Penfolds’ recent plays.

“We have a big ambition for Penfolds becoming a truly global luxury icon and with that comes a growth ambition as we bring on more consumers and more collectors globally,” states Penfolds’ managing director Tom King.

Cue a recent and bountiful three-day Sydney event program that Penfolds held to announce the latest collection. Cue this march into France.

“The future for me, and this is what we’ve done for the first time with this [French] release, is that the Penfolds collection is a collection of fantastic wines that come from the best winemaking regions globally,” says King. “And I think that’s a compelling vision for us to have as a team—applying our house style and our methods of winemaking in, ultimately, any region globally.

“Look, a priority is always going to be to connect with and build connections with our connoisseurs, our loyal consumers and collectors, and provide them amazing wine experiences … And then there’s the second group, ‘new luxurians’. It’s a slightly different approach—hence the more luxury experiences.”

King wants Penfolds to continue to be known as a wine brand of tremendous allure. He also projects it being known as more than just a wine brand”.

It’s a confident direction, and one that mirrors recent manoeuvres by many of the world’s luxury houses as they extend and amplify and commit to their futures through new channels and broader consumer engagement.

“Yes, it is bold. But we’re not walking away, rather, incrementally bringing new people in,” insists King. “France enables us to broaden the repertoire of wines and add more variation, it enables us to explore varietals from different terroir. It also enables us to push the boundaries. At Penfolds we have 178 years of trials and experimentation and we need to keep that heritage and we also need to look beyond, to have a go and see what else we produce—and I find that very inspiring.”

The 2022 Penfolds Collection — including the new French releases — is available now;


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Everybody Loves Naomi 

Fashion fans adore her. And so do we. Lucky, then, that a new exhibition is paying homage to four decades of snake-hipped catwalking.

By Joseph Tenni 22/06/2024

Naomi Campbell contains multitudes. Since emerging on the scene in 1986, modelling for British designer Jasper Conran, the statuesque stunner has used the runway for takeoff. She has ventured into all aspects of the culture, from Vogue to Playboy and reality TV. In the business arena, she has dabbled in publishing and the two F&Bs (fragrance and beauty, and food and beverage). Her philanthropic efforts are legion.

Naomi is better known than any of her peers and, aged 54, remains more relevant than ever. As a testament to her pervading influence, a new exhibition, Naomi: In Fashion, is opening at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum. Celebrating her 40 years in the spotlight, the show includes clothes from the model’s closet and some of the designer fashion she has helped to immortalise.

We all know her snake-hipped walk, her glowing skin, her famous paramours, and—yes—her many tantrums and tiaras. But how much do we love her exactly? Let’s count some of the ways. 

1. She Was Born to Be Famous

Many people know Naomi for her appearances in music videos for Michael Jackson’s In the Closet and George Michael’s Freedom! ’90—the latter also featuring fellow supermodels Linda, Cindy and Christy. But Naomi has been in front of the camera since she was a child, and her prolific music-video career predates her modelling. At 8, she appeared in the official video for Bob Marley’s 1978 hit Is This Love. At 13, Culture Club cast her as a tap-dancing teen in I’ll Tumble 4 Ya. It would be another two years before she was discovered by model scout Beth Boldt, while shopping in London’s Covent Garden.

Courtesy Off-White. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

2. She Hits All the Right Notes

As anyone who has ever seen Unzipped, the 1995 cult fashion documentary by Douglas Keeve, Naomi always has a song in her heart. She put her mouth where her money was in 1994 and recorded an album, Babywoman. The cover art featured Naomi, photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth, shaving her legs while sitting on the toilet. Fittingly, the album was canned—despite assistance from contributors like Donna Summer and PM Dawn. 

3. She’s Always Ready for Her Close-Up
Hollywood’s history is full of models who went on to become successful actors. Naomi is not one of them. But not for want of trying. Her turn as a nightclub singer in Vanilla Ice’s 1991 movie Cool as Ice flies under the radar but doesn’t deserve to. Nor does her scene-stealing cameo as a French cheese shopper in The Night We Never Met, alongside Matthew Broderick and Jeanne Tripplehorn. Or her playing a sexy telephone operator in Spike Lee’s Girl 6. Who else has that kind of range? 

4. She Tells It Like It Is

We’d be remiss not to mention her 1994 novel Swan. A roman a clef about a young girl breaking into the modelling industry, flanked by her four besties who are also divas in training heels, it certainly played with genres. A murder-mystery-cum-sexy-romance-cum-vocational-advice page-turner, or something like that, this guilty pleasure was cruelly overlooked and relegated to the annals of bargain bins everywhere. 

5. She’s Got a Mind for Business

Naomi has been vocal over the years about making less money than her white peers and was not going to wait for the industry to catch up. Instead, she has ventured into businesses ranging from her former stake in the Fashion Cafe in New York to her signature fragrances, first released in 1999. What does Naomi smell like? Subtle yet complicated, consisting of top notes of peach, coconut and bergamot with a deep, woody base of cedar and sandalwood—apparently.

6. She Gives Until It Hurts

For a so-called narcissist, Naomi has often put her fame to philanthropic use. She has galvanised black models in fashion with the Black Girls Coalition and has raised money for Africa, Haiti and disaster relief worldwide, including after the Mumbai terrorist attacks. When she was dating the Russian billionaire and Aman Resorts owner Vladislav Doronin, she became committed to saving the tiger. Is there anything this overachiever can’t do?

7. She Can Make Hay From Anything

When she was sentenced to community service following allegations by a former employer that Naomi had attacked her with a mobile phone, the model emerged from her punishment dressed in couture and trailed by a photo crew who were shooting a fashion layout of her for W magazine. And when she was summoned in 2010 to appear in a war crimes trial against former Liberian president Charles Taylor—in relation to an uncut blood diamond he’d allegedly given her—our girl showed up in an Azzedine Alaïa twin-set and wearing a silver “evil eye” necklace, turning the courtroom into a photo opportunity.

8. She’ll Be on Your Side for Evermore
The fashion industry is hardly known for its loyalty or congeniality, but Naomi has maintained decades-long friendships with not only her supermodel sisters like Christy Turlington but also some of the most powerful and difficult players, including John Galliano and Marc Jacobs. That she has remained tight with so many of her friends is not lost on her adoring public. She must be a loyal person and in return, fans everywhere remain loyal to her.

Naomi: In Fashion runs from June 22, 2024, until April 16, 2025, at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London;

Courtesy Vivienne Westwood. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

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The Sapphire Dinner 2024 Raises Support for Ocean Conservation

This year’s boldfaced bash raised funds for our critically under-supported national treasures. 

By Horacio Silva 22/06/2024

The big fish of Sydney society came out Thursday night for the third annual Sapphire Dinner to raise much-needed money for ocean conservation. Held in conjunction with the Art Gallery of New South Wales, the boldfaced bash was the first sit-down dinner held at the Tank, a repurposed World War II fuel container that sits beneath the Art Gallery’s new wing. 

Set against a backdrop of immersive ocean-inspired video projections by South Korean digital creators d’strict, and with a dress code that inspired guests to recycle their most fabulous fashions, the zero-waste dinner supports The Sapphire Project’s mission to galvanise the community to take action to protect our oceans and the Great Barrier Reef.

Deep-pocketed VIPs who walked the evening’s blue carpet included  Malcolm and Lucy Turnbull, real estate maven Monika Tu, Penelope Seidler, Anna Marsden (Managing Director of Great Barrier Reef Foundation), Michael and Tina Brand, Andrew Cameron, MCA Chair Lorraine Tarabay, Myer boss Olivia Wirth, benefactors Paris Neilsen and Beau Neilson, and Paul Howes and Olivia Wirth, the power couple known as ‘Paulivia’. 

Retired swimmer Giaan Rooney MC’d the event, hosted by Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie and Ryan Gollan and committee members Ian Thorpe AM, Luke Hepworth, Clare Herschell, Susan Wynne, Brioney Prier, Bianca Rinehart, Doris Ma, Kate Champion, Ellie Aitken, and Chong Chua. 

A troupe of former Australian Ballet dancers and a musical performance by the Fijian-Australian singer and actress Paulini entertained the revellers.   

Among the auctioned items was an original work by Del Kathryn Barton, which raised more than $200,000 in a high-spirited bidding war led by Four Pillars Gin founder Stu Gregor, whose expletive-laden entreaties were suitably salty. 

Nobody minded, given that more than a million dollars were raised to support the criminally underfunded ocean conservation (it’s estimated that only about 2 percent of philanthropy in Australia goes towards the preservation of our precious national treasures), with funds going to support important initiatives such as The Great Barrier Reef Foundation, the University of Sydney’s One Tree Island Research Station, the Australian Museum’s Lizard Island Research Station, the Australian Sea Lion Recovery Foundation and Biopixel Oceans Foundation’s Project Hammerhead

The Sapphire Project Dinner 2024
Clare Herschell, Kate Champion, Bianca Rinehart & Hayley Baillie
The tablescapes at the Sapphire Project Dinner
Ian Thorpe
Adrian and Beck Buchan
Monika Tu
The Sapphire Project Dinnner 2024
Lucy & Malcolm Turnbull
Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie & Ryan Gollan

For further information, visit

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The 10 Best Omakase in Sydney

Sydney’s best Japanese chef’s-table dining experiences.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 06/06/2024

In Japan, where food is a cultural art form, omakase stands for traditional Japanese foods made with seasonal ingredients. A good omakase meal, prepared with purity and mindfulness, can make an unforgettable imprint on the culinary memory. Yet in a land defined by seasonal traditions, omakase is a relatively new concept.

Omakase originated in Japan in the 1970s as affluent Japanese began to dine more regularly at first-rate sushi counters. Bowing to the expertise of the sushi master, omakase loosely translates to “I’ll leave it to you.” In a setting where money is no object, letting the chef decide was designed as a chic way to take the awkwardness out of ordering.

In Australia where there’s an abundance of fresh seafood, omakase menus have experienced a recent rise in popularity. Today omakase is any series of small dishes served directly by the chef to the diner. Each part of the meal is presented on beautiful ceramics and lacquer wear, with a great —and somewhat— intimidating reverence for elegant details. It’s a chance to see a chef’s knife skills up close and get a feel for their cooking style.

Omakase menus are based on whatever is freshest at the market and can be influenced by the chef’s mood, expertise, and response to the guest. They can be slowly paced like a ceremony—hushed and reverential—but they can also be rowdy, humorous, and personal.
Here we give you 10 of the best to try in Sydney.

Yoshi’s Omakase at Nobu Crown Sydney

Crown Sydney, Level 2/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo. Open: 12–3 pm, 5:30–9:30 pm Phone: 02 8871 7188 Reservations: F&; $380 per head (including matched wine and sake).

Sushi Oe

16/450 Miller St, Cammeray; Tue – Sat. SMS only 0451 9709 84 E: Phone: 0426 233 984 $230 per head.

Kisuke with Yusuke Morita

50 Llankelly Place, Potts Point; Tuesday – Saturday: 17:30 – 10.45 (closed Sunday/ Monday) $185-200 per head


102/21 Alberta St, Sydney. Lunch, Friday to Saturday 12 -2:00 pm Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday 5:45 pm – 8:1 5pm (closed Sunday & Mondays) P: 0408 866 285                                     E:; $150 – $210


Shop 04 2/58 Little Hay St, Sydney, Lunch: Fri-Sun 12:30 pm. Dinner  Tue-Sun 5:15 pm or 7:45 pm sittings.  Reservation via SMS at 0488 688 252; $220 per head @kuon.omakase


The Darling, Level G, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont. Open dinner Monday to Thursday from 5:45 pm P: 1800 700 700 $300 per head


368 Kent St, Sydney; Open Tue – Wed – Thur: 6 pm Fri & Sat: 5:30 pm P: 02 9262 1580, $220 per head.;

Choji Omakase

Level 2, 228 Victoria Ave, Chatswood —upstairs from Choji Yakiniku. Every Monday to Wednesday at 6.30 pm. One seating per day only. $295 per head.

Gold Class Daruma

The Grace Hotel, Level 1/77 York St, Sydney; 12–2:30 pm, 5:30–9.00 pm Phone: (02) 9262 1190 M: 0424 553 611·$120 – $150 per head


Besuto Omakase, Sydney Place precinct, 3 Underwood Street, Circular Quay. Omakase is available to book for dinner – Tuesday to Saturday. 5:30 pm & 8pm sittings. From $250.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is no soy and wasabi offered during my omakase meal?
Even though sushi and sashimi are being served, the chef is serving each piece of sushi so quickly and directly that the chef is applying the wasabi and soy to the sushi themselves. Watch as they brush the top of the fish with soy and dab a tiny amount of wasabi on the rice, under the fish. You should not need to add extra, and in fact, it can be insulting to the chef to add more. Bathing the bottom of the rice of your sushi in soy sauce is considered bad manners, as it is seen as detracting from the flavour of the fish.

Nobu, Sydney

Can an omakase experience accommodate my dietary needs?
Although there is often little variation once the chef has set the daily menu, some customisation is possible. Advise the restaurant when you book and remind them of allergies or aversions again as you sit down. They will let you know when you book if your allergy is possible for the chef. Japanese menus feature a lot of seafood and dashi so accommodating a no seafood request can be genuinely tricky.

What are the golden rules for chopstick etiquette?
Use your chopstick holder in between eating, rather than putting chopsticks on your plate. Don’t use your chopsticks to gesticulate or point; if offering food to someone to try, never pass food directly from your chopsticks to theirs. Rather place the food onto a small plate and let them pick it up.
Never touch communal or shared food with your chopsticks. The longer, slightly larger chopsticks are like sharing cutlery, never put these in your mouth.

Without a menu, how can I know what I am eating during omakase?
Omakase is often a no-menu situation, and you are expected to try new things. Attending an omakase experience with an open, trusting mind yields the best results.
There are Wagyu and tempura omakase that reflect the chef’s personal predilections and training, but in a standard luxury omakase, the format will include a lot of freshly caught seafood and will usually kick off with a delicate appetiser. This will be followed by a sashimi and sushi course, a savoury egg custard (chawanmushi) with meat and seafood, a cooked or blow-torched market fish, a soup course, and dessert.

Can I talk to the chef during omakase? What is the protocol?
Guests at an omakase experience are welcome to ask questions of the chef; in fact, interacting with the chef is part of the experience. It is considered polite to ask questions or inquire about the food so they can explain.

What is best to pair with omakase  in terms of drinks?
In general, wine and sake are a perfect match for omakase. Aged fish and vinegar have strong umami flavours so depending on which course you enjoy, different wine and sake will pair well. Dry chilled sake is a great choice. Amazing sakes are imported into Australia, so trust the restaurant to advise you and take you on a sake journey at the same time.  If you don’t like sake, drinking chardonnay, a crisp young riesling, or even a dry complex Riesling is also totally acceptable. All three styles help bring out the flavour of the fish. Champagne can also be good. Try a blanc de blancs— 100% chardonnay —for a great way to start the meal. As you progress, remember that sake is good for dishes with a strong taste, such as uni and eel.

Nobu, Sydney

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The Tod’s SS25 Men’s Collection in Milan Was a Showcase of “Artisanal Intelligence”

It was also the debut men’s collection by creative director Matteo Tamburini.

By Josh Bozin 20/06/2024

Earlier this week, Tod’s presented its SS25 men’s collection at the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea (PAC) for Milan Fashion Week, where all eyes were fixed on Matteo Tamburini and his debut menswear collection as Tod’s newest creative director.

Striking “a balance between tradition and modernity”, was the former Bottega Veneta designer’s intention, and indeed his showcase offerered a spotlight on the quality, materials, and detailing that are central to the Tod’s wardrobe.

“The collection is more about subtraction rather than addition, highlighting the very elevated, timeless and relaxed materials,” says Tamburini via a statement.


In line with Tod’s restrained design codes, the garments presented were characterised by timelessness, unmistakable Italian flair, yet a casualness appropriate for everyday wear. Only the best leathers were used in the collection—thanks to the Pashmy project, which Tod’s unveiled in January to champion high-end Italian materials—used in creating garments like the Tod’s Bomber, the Gio Jacket, the Shirt Jacket, the Di Bag sack, as well as footwear staples, like the Tod’s T-Riviera.

Of course, the iconic Gommino driving shoe wasn’t without an update, too: you’ll find a new sabot interpretation, as well as the Bubble Gommino introduced in a new boat model with the T-bar accessory.

“Craftsmanship” was at the forefront of messaging, with chairman and chief executive officer of the Tod’s Group, Diego Della Valle, reiterating the message of honouring artisanal arts in an increasingly digital-first world.”[It’s] important to uphold artisanal intelligence, keeping under control artificial intelligence as it is now developing rapidly and powerfully,” he said via a statement.

“Individuals and artisanal intelligence at the centre, with its traditions and values, will contribute to keep artificial intelligence in check. Our Italian craftsmanship and supply chain can be an example of the combination of tradition and the new speed of artificial intelligence.”

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Pitti Uomo’s Best-Dressed Men Cut Through the Noise With Personal Style

From vintage gems to tasteful tailoring, attendees of Florence’s biannual tradeshow brought their best sartorial selves.

By Naomi Rougeau, Lorenzo Sodi 20/06/2024

Whether or not you’re well versed in the ins and outs of Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear tradeshow in Florence that brings together buyers, press—and, naturally, a vast ostentation of peacocks—the chances are that photos from the gathering are still making their way into your newsfeed. You might even smirk at the mention of it. To be sure, you’ll encounter plenty of “overdressing” strolling through the main venues but by and large, great personal style manages to cut through the noise.

Part of what makes the Pitti scene so exciting is that menswear moves relatively slowly. It’s less about seeing something earth shatteringly new but rather gradual shifts and discovering fresh ways to put things together. Menswear regulars such as Alessandro Squarzi, owner of a considerable vintage archive that influences his Milanese boutique Fortela, can be relied upon to provide inspiration on how to make tried and true staples and silhouettes feel modern.

Speaking of new old things, vintage fashions made their way into the chat in a big way this June, whether in terms of rare finds or sustainable efforts via upcycling, fabric development and natural dyes (Paris-based De Bonne Facture achieved an ideal medium brown using coffee, for instance). At the heart of the conversation was another bona fide vintage guru Maurizio Donadi who made a case for the timelessness and democratic nature of indigo with his centuries-spanning exhibit of antique garments from around the globe.

Below you’ll find a dozen of our favorite looks from Pitti Uomo 106, lensed by our eagle-eyed street-style photographer Lorenzo Sodi. We hope they inspire.

Lorenzo Sodi

A lesson in simplicity and the power of a classic palette—good quality vintage accents such as a turquoise embellished belt buckle add interest to timeless workwear. Ray-Ban’s universally-flattering Wayfarer sunglasses are the perfect finishing touch.

Lorenzo Sodi

Sans suit and shirt, the neckerchief (of which there were many at Pitti), adds a welcome dose of colour to a white tee and relaxed jacket and proves that sometimes one choice detail is all it takes. A well-loved, slightly-too-long belt and canvas Vans contribute to the casual harmony.

Lorenzo Sodi

Whatever the weather, you’ll find Douglas Cordeaux, from Fox Brothers, looking immaculate in shirt and tie… and a suit made of one of Fox’s many fabrics. British elegance, embodied.

Lorenzo Sodi

Relaxed elegance is the foundation of the Brunello Cuccinelli brand. Here, the maestro himself shows us how it’s done in a double-breasted linen ensemble featuring a few personal flourishes.

Lorenzo Sodi

Designer Alessandro Pirounis of Pirounis offers a masterclass on the rule of three with a contemporary twist, subbing the usual jacket with an overshirt of his own design.

Lorenzo Sodi

A renaissance man takes Florence. True to his roots, US Marine veteran, Savile Row-trained tailor and photographer Robert Spangle blazes a sartorial trail that’s all his own.

Lorenzo Sodi

Cream trousers are an essential element of elegant Italian summer style. Designer Nicola Radano of Spacca Neapolis channels one of the greats (Marcello Mastroianni) in a dark polo of his own design, collar spread wide across his jacket’s lapel for a welcome retro lean.

Lorenzo Sodi

Proof of the power of tonal dressing, that can create an impactful outfit just by sticking to the same colour family. A chic ensemble and in some ways an elevated version of the double-denim look, every element is working hard in service to the whole.

Lorenzo Sodi

UK-based stylist Tom Stubbs has long been a proponent of blousy pleats, lengthy db jackets, and statement-making neck scarves and here, in vintage Armani, he embodies the louche, oversize look that many designers are just now catching up on.

Lorenzo Sodi

A tailor splitting his time between Berlin and Cologne, Maximilian Mogg is known for his strong-shouldered, architectural suiting. Yet in Mogg’s hands, particularly with this non-traditional colour scheme, the effect is always modern and youthful.

Lorenzo Sodi

If Max Poglia’s relaxed Hawaiian shirt and suit combo is any indication, summer has truly arrived. But it’s an excellent example of how to wearing tailoring in more casual fashion. This cream db would look perfect with shirt and tie at a wedding in August and just as chic here with slippers and a laid-back shirt.

Lorenzo Sodi

Another example of how tailoring can be laid-back and breezy for summer, from a dude who looks no stranger to enjoying the best of the warmer months. Jaunty pocket square, sandals, untucked linen shirt…go forth and emulate.

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