Penfolds’ French Connection
We’re in the Médoc, to experience Penfolds’ first ever French wines and discover what such moves mean for its global ambitions.
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It’s all quintessentially, wonderfully French. An outdoor setting splayed long atop lush grass and under the expansive reach of historic oak trees, a white-shuttered neo-Baroque château anchoring the setting. Jazz notes from a nearby quartet carry along a warm June breeze as an elegant summer menu of langoustine and lamb is presented, one that naturally extends to dessert and cheese courses.
It’s all quintessentially, wonderfully French. That is, except, for what’s being poured—stamped labels of familiarity, which proudly read: Penfolds.
It doesn’t make sense—an Eden Valley riesling, Coonawarra cabernet- shiraz, 2010 Grange magnum—until it does. Because we’re here, an hour from Bordeaux, on the outskirts of the famed Saint-Julien appellation, to raise our well-filled crystal glasses to a bold new venture: Penfolds’ push into the historic heart of fine wine, la belle France.
The aforementioned pile is Château Belgrave, a magnificent manor, certainly one of the Médoc’s finest, and a label of renown that falls under the control of winemakers Dourthe, with whom Penfolds has created this Franco-Australien debut with the release of the 2019 Penfolds II Cabernet Shiraz Merlot.
“It’s two—as in two winemakers, two cultures, two hemispheres, two varieties,” Penfolds chief winemaker, the gregarious and charming Peter Gago, tells Robb Report.
The blend very much epitomises the coming together of these geographically opposed—if equally respected—wine regions. Penfolds II, which sports an elevated silver and red label, melds the Old and New worlds by marrying cabernet sauvignon (59 per cent) and merlot (12 per cent) from Bordeaux with a spark of South Australian shiraz (29 per cent).
In the world of winemaking, you never truly know what will arrive. Sure, those at the wheel, like Gago and his French counterpart, Dourthe’s chief winemaker Frédéric Bonnaffous, have a fair idea of expectations. But there is never a guarantee, and often, a few surprises.
“We knew it would be nice, but we didn’t know it would be so nice,” states a chuffed Bonnaffous. And he’s right— it’s a fine dance of balance and depth and, excitingly, expected to grow and further intensify its appeal with age.
The French component that informs Penfolds II was made at two Dourthe-owned wineries, and then transported in stainless steel tanks by air to be blended and bottled—after 18 months in French and American oak—at Penfolds’ Nuriootpa winery in South Australia.
“Straightaway I can say that it’s blended and bottled in Australia—because Frédéric would be going to jail if we bottled it in France,” offers Gago—semi-jokingly given the strict laws surrounding the bottling of foreign wine on French soil.
It was Essence de Dourthe that led to Penfolds II. Because it was this rare and exclusive drop (no more than 6,000 bottles produced per vintage, made from a heady blend of various standout Dourthe vines from a variety of château) that pushed Gago towards the winemaker and what he viewed as a willingness to experiment.
“They are a group who are quite worldly, making this blend that was well accepted but also quite contradictory to what things are about in Bordeaux— so that certainly sent up a flare.”
A “what if” was thrown out (around 2013, however no one seems too sure of the initial French timetable), one that ultimately led to today’s extended table under the trees, and a first public pouring of Penfolds II ($500).
The new wine is, in fact, but one label in Penfolds’ new French playbook. Because it sits alongside an equally exciting release, 2019 Penfolds FWT 585 ($120). FWT translates to “French wine trial”, and it’s precisely that — a tight “test” of what Penfolds can do with French grapes on French soil, a blend (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot) from the Médoc’s top terroirs, and which was led on the ground by Penfolds winemaker Emma Wood.
“This is about curiosity, it’s about experimentation,” offers Wood. “And it’s not about us competing with French wines, it’s about making a ‘Penfolds wine’ in France.”
While Penfolds and France hold a hand in history—former chief winemaker Max Schubert was inspired to create Grange after a trip to Bordeaux in 1950—it’s California that’s heavily referenced in regard to the new French bottles. Specifically, the Napa Valley program that Penfolds went after from the late ’80s (planting vine cuttings from Magill Estate and Kalimna vineyards in Stateside soils), culminating in last year’s debut release of the well-received Californian Collection.
“[California] was starting to pay dividends before release and the Bordeaux thing happened after that success,” says Gago. “So this wasn’t such a brave, new ‘man on the moon’ type pursuit, it was a gradation of what we were doing, an extension—albeit a leap.”
The Bordeaux moves are savvy and play across several levels—a need for grapes, a further push into greater collectability among connoisseurs, the opening of new markets and demographics and, ultimately, Penfolds positioning itself as a major global luxury brand.
Such heightened ideals were certainly on display on a final and extremely warm Bordeaux evening, with Penfolds taking
the keys to the historic Palais de la Bourse, a stunning series of buildings, conceived by Louis XV’s principal architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel, which date to 1730, and overlook the fast-flowing Garonne River. It’s as grand as imagined—a stop on the Bordeaux tourist trail. And on this night it belonged solely to the Australian brand.
The lavish evening was constructed to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the acclaimed 1962 Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Kalimna Shiraz. That numerous bottles of the 60-year-old tipple were opened (following a heady list of other astute players: including 2008 Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz, 2004 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon, 1990 Grange, among others) was quite something. Only 5,100 bottles were originally produced—and one recently fetched $21,552 at auction.
Doing the quick math on this pouring alone, and looking at the list of invitees in the room—the head of Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, head of Great Wine Capitals, some top French legal wine brains, the CEO of Saint-Louis Crystal—says a lot about the drive to establish Penfolds’ French flag and grow from here.
Indeed, Gago admits to further French moves already being in motion—further investment and a firm commitment to time, people, land.
“I’m not really supposed to talk about any of this… But yes, these are early days and we have real skin in the game, real investment [in France] and I see the Bordeaux project getting bigger and better.”
The smiles that filled the Palais de la Bourse that night—from French and global wine writers to those Bordeaux heavy hitters—suggested these first steps are proving fruitful. As such, Le Figaro would later praise Penfolds in a glowing review of Gago and what’s being produced.
Still, some collective eyebrows have been quizzically raised at home, questioning the offshore agenda of Australia’s most successful ever winery.
“If this works then everyone wins, everyone involved from the grower right along the line,” offers Gago. “And the thing is, we’re not abandoning Australia, we continue to plant vineyards in Australia. Do this right and it’s a win, win, WIN for all.”
Prior to the new French releases that inform the 2022 Penfolds Collection, the brand partnered with the Reims-based champagne house Thiénot on the 2020 release of three 2012 vintage champagnes (Chardonnay Pinot Noir Cuvee, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs) to mark Penfolds’ 175th anniversary. At the time, no outsiders knew about the new French plans furtively taking shape in the background. But that bubbly release, well, it signalled intent and certainly pushed those luxurious ideals that have come to frame many of Penfolds’ recent plays.
“We have a big ambition for Penfolds becoming a truly global luxury icon and with that comes a growth ambition as we bring on more consumers and more collectors globally,” states Penfolds’ managing director Tom King.
Cue a recent and bountiful three-day Sydney event program that Penfolds held to announce the latest collection. Cue this march into France.
“The future for me, and this is what we’ve done for the first time with this [French] release, is that the Penfolds collection is a collection of fantastic wines that come from the best winemaking regions globally,” says King. “And I think that’s a compelling vision for us to have as a team—applying our house style and our methods of winemaking in, ultimately, any region globally.
“Look, a priority is always going to be to connect with and build connections with our connoisseurs, our loyal consumers and collectors, and provide them amazing wine experiences … And then there’s the second group, ‘new luxurians’. It’s a slightly different approach—hence the more luxury experiences.”
King wants Penfolds to continue to be known as a wine brand of tremendous allure. He also projects it being known as more than just a wine brand”.
It’s a confident direction, and one that mirrors recent manoeuvres by many of the world’s luxury houses as they extend and amplify and commit to their futures through new channels and broader consumer engagement.
“Yes, it is bold. But we’re not walking away, rather, incrementally bringing new people in,” insists King. “France enables us to broaden the repertoire of wines and add more variation, it enables us to explore varietals from different terroir. It also enables us to push the boundaries. At Penfolds we have 178 years of trials and experimentation and we need to keep that heritage and we also need to look beyond, to have a go and see what else we produce—and I find that very inspiring.”
The 2022 Penfolds Collection — including the new French releases — is available now; penfolds.com
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