A Toast to 12 of the Best Grower-Producer Champagnes

Let’s raise a glass to these independent French winemakers. 

By Belinda Aucott-christie 24/01/2024

A new wave of French winemakers is forging their own path in Champagne. In one generation they have revolutionised hundreds of years of tradition and ushered in an entirely new approach. It’s an experimental attitude energised by a love of farming and a commitment to craft.

Industry insiders call them “growers producers” (or “growers” for short) because they no longer sell their grapes exclusively to the big houses or négociants and maintain a focus on boutique labels. Each year they bottle idiosyncratic wines of high quality and distribute them in small quantities which only adds to their rarity. Together they demonstrate passion for making Champagne that conveys a deep sense of place. Their methods are so revelatory that they’re beginning to influence some of Champagne’s biggest players like Louis Roederer.

Grower releases are healthier because they use fewer chemicals and have lower added sugar content. Often they are made from single vineyard and single grape varieties. For example just chardonnay, just pinot noir, or just pinot meunier.

If you love Champagne and have already experienced the grand marques, expand your connoisseurship with the standout grower offerings below.

Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Millesime 2014

 

Creamy, layered, rich

Known as the “sommelier’s Champagne”, a coveted drop, especially in vintage styles. (The village of Ambonnay, where it is grown, is lauded for its abundance of decadent grand cru fruit.) The 2014 vintage is made from 40-year-old vines and is a seductive, layered and powerful expression of the region. A bouquet of subtle floral notes that is worth every cent.

$1,050; Five Ways Cellars.com.au

Larmandier Bernier Grand Cru VV du Levant 2012

 

Stone-fruit, mineral fresh, weighty palate 

A husband and wife team from Vertus, Larmandier-Bernier produce some of the best grower Champagne going. This is 100% chardonnay Champagne matured in large-format casks. The alcoholic and malolactic fermentations take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Best to drink on its own or with a delicate shellfish starter.

$380; Fivewaycellars.com.au

Laherte Freres Ultradition NV

 

Lively, light and fleshy

An aperitif-style wine with wonderful ripeness, body and generosity compared to past releases. A non-vintage sparkling wine, the Ultradition is an outstanding entry-point champagne from producer. Aurélien Laherte, one of the most talented vignerons of his generation. An approachable drop that has a gentle red fruit character from the Pinot Noir, with acid that is lively, but not showy. You will want to buy two bottles.

$140; Fivewayscellars.com.au

Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2012

 

Pear, grapefruit and peach

Aÿ is where Ayala and Bollinger are made. At Philiponnat, a little-known house highly regarded by connoisseurs, there is a family history of making wine that dates back to 1552. The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is fleshy and textural. It shows aromas of pear, grapefruit and stone fruit, all mingled with hints of honey, brazil nuts and fresh bread. On the palate, it has concentrated stone fruit at its core, bright acid and a plump, soft mousse.

$1,000; Fivewayscellars.com.au

Agrapart Grand Cru Venus Blanc de Blancs 2016

 

 

 

Citrus, almond, yellow nectarine 

More like a white Burgundy than a Champagne, the Venus comes from a single vineyard in the clay-rich soils of Avize—specifically from a single vineyard and plot known as La Fosse aux Pourceaux. A single-parcel cuvée is made in only tiny quantities each year (which adds to its rarity and desirability). It’s an intense wine that demands food and will be able to handle a main course of lemon sole or even white meat.

$615; fiveways.com.au

Andre Clouet Chalky Brut NV

 

Crisp, salty, creamy 

A reputable boutique house, Clouet produces excellent rosé and non-vintage styles that are terrific value. As a 100% Chardonnay cuvée, this initial release of “Chalky” is made entirely from the remarkable 2013 vintage and dials up the crisp and salty flavours in grapes grown from these chalk-rich soils. Chalk soils have long been considered one of the key resources enabling the region to produce such intense and refined wines.

$130; Fivewayscellars.com.au

NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 744/ 746 Extra Brut

Aromatic, yellow fruit, mineral

Referred to in wine circles as “baby Krug” Jacquesson is known for crafting detailed wines that are matured in casks and made in a blended cuvée style. Acquired by François Pinault, the owner of Château Latour in 2022, founders the Chiquet brothers continue to manage every detail of the wines they produce. The minimal packaging and extra brut style of the Champagne belie the rich, full and delectably chalky profile.

$175; Princewinestore.com.au

Benoit Lahaye NV Brut Nature

Deep, taught and spiced

From a small-scale vineyard that produces true ‘Champagne de vigneron’ quality wines, Benoit Lahaye is made from ripe, biodynamic fruit mainly from the village of Bouzy in Montagne de Reims. A rare wine to see on a wine list, but well worth trying. A wonderful expression of terroir.

$136; acellars.com.au

Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs

 

Citrus, baked bread and creamy cashew

Hailing from Mesnil sur Oger, an all-star part of the region, Pierre Pieter BdB with refined yeast lees, citrus and baked bread aromas followed by faint scents of oyster shell and cashew.  The front palate is backed by a subtle toastiness and some brioche. Finishes dry and finely textured with stimulating acidity and a long savoury aftertaste. 

$230; Cru Cellar and Bar Brisbane

Jacques Selosse Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Version Originale NV

 


Wine-like, textural and generous

This wine has a cult-like following. Only around 3,000 bottles are produced each year and all the Selosse Champagnes are akin to an artistic expression of the region. Version Originale (VO) is a blend of three successive vintages from Avize, Cramant and Oger, but there is more Avize fruit in this release which brings plenty of texture and generosity to the palate. The VO is complex,  more like a white wine or a traditional white Burgundy than your standard sparkling.

$850; United Cellars

Bérêche & Fils Brut Réserve NV

 

Rich, vibrant and refreshing 

Maison Bérêche create stunning expressions and their latest release Brut Reserve NV is no exception. Rich yet refreshing, it hums along the palate with unflagging energy and character. The depth and delicacy of the flavours are unfathomable for an entry-level offering. Must be tasted to be believed.

$93; Princewinestore.com.au

André Jacquart Brut 1er Cru Expérience Blanc De Blancs

Champagne, France

Nutty, grapefruit, complex

The ‘house’ Brut cuvée is a blend of 60% Vertus and 40% Le Mesnil. There is no oak to the nose, instead it shows roasted nuts and complex notes of autolysis. Crisp and dry there is a rich creamy mousse on entry, then fresh grapefruit acidity, a fine mineral thread flowing through to a dry finish. A graceful balance of power and freshness this is a perfect aperitif style to serve by the glass.

$121; acellars.com.au

Frequently Asked Questions

Why choose a ‘grower’ Champagne over a well-known brand?

Buying a grower-producer champagne is casting a vote for the future of the Champagne region itself.  These top makers are independent and they represent the future of Champagne as it transitions to a more sustainable approach to growing the best grapes possible.

What should a good bottle of ‘grower’ Champagne cost?

The best advice is to buy the best you can afford. From time to time it’s prudent to try a bigger, bolder Champagne and spend more—for example by splurging on quality grower blanc de blancs, a rosé or vintage.

You can find fairly good quality grower Champagne like those by André Clouet for $60 per bottle; $100 is pretty standard for non-vintage wines and then the quality skyrockets from about $150 upwards. You can still get a great grower Champagne for around $100-120 dollars in good wine stores, and they will cost anywhere between $250-400 on restaurant wine lists. But in very basic terms you can’t go wrong.

How do I know whether the Champagne I am choosing will be dry?

Like fashion, Champagne has instructions on the label. The term Brut means dry. Extra Brut is very dry. Brut Nature means very little sugar has been added. Brut Nature Champagne is more common with global warming and it will be a crunchier and zestier wine with a less lush, or viscous mouthfeel. Zero Dosage means little or no sugar has been added to the final wine so this is bone-dry Champagne. If you want a light refreshing aperitif wine then zero dosage can be good. It will still pair well with a rich entrée or canapé.

Sec means sweet in French, and Demi-Sec means semi-sweet. Avoid these styles if you can. You will find that even if you are serving your Champagne with cake or rich desserts, a dry style with great acid and nervy will help to cut through sugar and cream.

Where do I go to source these speciality wines? How do I know I am buying the best quality?

Most hatted restaurants and dedicated wine bars will have a good grower Champagne on the wine list. Use your restaurant sommelier to help you find something that is to your taste and budget. Good wine stores such as the City Wine Shop in Melbourne, Best Cellars in Darlinghurst, Prince Wine Store Sydney and Melbourne, Cru Cellar and Bar on James Street in Brisbane, East End Cellars in Adelaide along with Five Ways Cellars and Annandale Cellars in Sydney are absolute experts who can guide you to finding a superb wine in your budget.

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Car of the Year

Always an unmissable highlight of the automotive calendar, Robb Report ANZ’s annual motoring awards set a new benchmark among glorious Gold Coast tarmac.

By Horacio Silva 24/03/2025

Over two unforgettable days, our motoring sages and VIP guests embarked on an exhilarating journey from Surfers Paradise to Brisbane and back again—traversing an irresistible selection of terrain in our exotic rides, from deserted rainforest-lined b-roads to testing mountain switchbacks with dizzying—sometimes heart-in-mouth—views over the southern Queensland peninsula. And as befitting an event starring the crème de la crème of auto marques, we did so while savouring the best in luxury and gastronomy—capped off with an extraordinary superyacht experience at Sanctuary Cove.

 

The ten contenders for the Car of the Year were not the only dream machines on show. The first day’s adventure kicked off at the Langham Hotel and included a midday pit stop at the glorious Beechmont Estate, where our fleet of drivers were greeted by a stunning array of vintage cars exhibited in a concours d’elegance-style display.

 

Concours d’elegance-style vintage car show at the Beechmont Estate.

The sumptuous feast for the eyes on offer at Beechmont, a quaint country village located between the Lamington Plateau and Tamborine Mountain, was followed by a meal for the ages prepared by executive chefs Chris and Alex Norman at the property’s hatted restaurant, The Paddock.

 

Fine dining at The Paddock.

Then, itching to remount our steeds, it was time to hit the road again, with our drivers—all sporting Onitsuka Tiger’s new driving shoes—hightailing it to Brisbane and The Calile Hotel, a property which has been scooping accolades like Jay Leno collects supercars.

 

Rolls-Royce Spectre

After some much needed relaxation by the pool, that evening the drivers and press were joined by local luminaries in the hotel’s private dining room. Over an extravagant banquet they got to compare notes on marvels of engineering and design that they’d had the chance to pilot all day. They were also treated to a showcase of spectacular Jacob & Co. timepieces and Hardy Brothers jewellery and an elegant sufficiency of 40-year Glenfiddich whiskey served in gold cups worth $60,000 a pop. It made for animated discussions and more than a little impromptu shopping.

Rivera Yachts 6800 Sport Yacht Platinum Edition

And did we mention the luxury yacht experience? After a full itinerary of adventures on the road, the day ended with an invigorating late-afternoon of luxuriating aboard two new Riviera Yacht releases—the 6800 Sport Yacht and the 585 SUV—where our intrepid drivers and assorted press got to literally and figuratively take their hands off the wheel and make a case for their car of the year. As the forthcoming pages attest, they were more than spoiled for choice. But who would take centre stage on the winners’ podium?

OVERALL WINNER

Rolls-Royce Spectre

 

BEST SPORTS CAR

Aston Martin Vantage

 

BEST LUXURY HYBRID

Bentley Flying Spur

 

BEST PERFORMANCE SUPERCAR

McLaren 750S

 

BEST ROADSTER

Mercedes-AMG SL634MATIC+

 

BEST CAR DESIGN

Maserati GranTurismo

 

BEST ELECTRIC PERFORMANCE CAR

Porsche Taycan Turbo S

 

BEST SUV

Ferrari Purosangue

Cruise along to robbreport.com.au/events for more supercars and luxury motoring.

 

Judges sample luxury Jacob & Co. timepieces.

 

 

Aston Martin Vantage

 

 

Graceful egress in Onitsuka Tiger’s driving shoes.

 

The Porsche Taycan retains a timeless demeanour in any company.

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How to Use Your Dress Watch to Nail Casual Style This Fall

The dress watch is back and more laid-back than ever. Here’s how to rock your Cartier and Piaget pieces with casual looks

By Paige Reddinger 24/03/2025

After the seemingly never-ending hype around steel sports watches, dress watches have been making a comeback. But it’s not just the average 42 mm dress watch that’s sparking interest (although, those too, are in the running), but also funky vintage diamond-accented timepieces or small-sized, almost feminine pieces are trending. Recently, actor Paul Mescal was spotted on the red carpet of the Annual Academy Museum Gala wearing a Cartier Tank Mini with his tux, while sports legend Dwyane Wade wore a 28 mm diamond Tiffany & Co. Eternity watch with his black tie ensemble to the same event. While these guys were wearing dress watches in their intended setting, here we show you how to make a dress watch work for casual weekend wear too.

Try dabbling in unexpected pairings like an army green Ghiaia safari jacket with a vintage Chopard Happy Diamonds timepiece or Breguet Classique Ref. 7147 (the ultimate dressy timekeeper) with a Louis Vuitton sweatsuit and a Brioni overcoat. Anything goes these days and the more unexpected the timepiece, the stronger the statement. It’s good news all around—for your wardrobe and your investments in the vault.

Above: Blancpain 39.7 mm Villeret Ultraplate in 18-karat red gold, $69,675; Tod’s faux-shearling and denim jacket, $5,6859; Tom Ford cashmere and silk turtleneck, $2,535.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY MATALLINA. WATCH EDITOR, PAIGE REDDINGER. FASHION DIRECTOR, ALEX BADIA. STYLE EDITOR, NAOMI ROUGEAU.

Jaeger-LeCoultre 40 mm Reverso One Duetto Jewellery in 18-karat pink gold and diamonds, $79,560. Right: Chopard 32 mm vintage Happy Diamonds in 18-karat white gold and diamonds, $19,930, analogshift.com; Ghiaia cotton safari jacket, $1,426; Eton cotton T-shirt, 358; Hermès denim trousers, $1,674.

Audemars Piguet 34 mm vintage automatic ultrathin watch in 18-karat white gold and diamonds, $9,300, classicwatchny.com. Right: Cartier 41.4 mm Tortue in platinum, $35,600, limited to 200; Gabriela Hearst hand-knit cashmere sweater, $2,500; Officine Générale cotton-poplin shirt, $315.

Breguet 40 mm Classique Ref. 7147 in 18-karat white gold, $37,468; Brioni wool and cashmere overcoat, $12,233, and silk knit crewneck sweater, $2,224; Louis Vuitton wool track pants, $2,120, and wool hooded jacket, $5,002. Right: Patek Philippe 39 mm Calatrava Ref. 6119R-001 in 18-karat rose gold, $52,791.

Piaget 45 mm Andy Warhol in 18-karat rose gold, $69,198. Right: Rolex 29 mm vintage King Midas Ref. 4342 in 18-karat yellow gold, $28,301, classicwatchny.com; Brunello Cucinelli denim shirt, $1,586; Tom Ford cotton chinos, $1,259; Berluti leather belt, $1,132.

Model: Arthur Sales
Grooming: Amanda Wilson
Senior market editor and casting: Luis Campuzano
Photo director: Irene Opezzo
Photo assistant: Alejandro Suarez
Prop stylist: Elizabeth Derwin

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Fair Play

Pioneering Australian fashionista Andrew Doyle is on a mission to build the world’s finest—and most responsible—knitwear brand.

By Brad Nash 24/03/2025

Some brand stories come so swathed in lashings of romance, it’s hard to know where to begin. Ask Andrew Doyle, founder of luxury knitwear brand Formehri, and he’ll tell you that the true essence of his company lies in its name— or, rather, its namesake: his wife, Mehri.

“The story of our brand is really the story of our family,” Doyle says. The two now have three children, having met in their twenties while working for the same company. “We were on our honeymoon, I think, 11 years ago, and she made a passing comment that it was her dream to live in the south of France. I don’t know why, but I decided there and then that I was going to make it happen for her.”

Now, Doyle splits his time jet-setting between Monaco and Sydney, but he was born and raised among the more prosaic pastures of Canberra, working for much of his twenties and thirties building a successful finance recruitment company. Having taken an interest in menswear from an early age, he spent most of that time moonlighting as one of the internet’s OG menswear bloggers under the moniker Timeless Man. The site gravitated towards covering smaller, artisanal producers, eschewing big brands and splashy catwalk shows in favour of those making bespoke garments and accessories with an emphasis on quality over quantity.

“I did it for free for a decade,” he recalls. “I was always drawn to craftspeople who were creating something authentic and product driven. I would save up my money, go have these people make me a jacket and write about the process. I just found it so interesting. Pretty soon I started thinking that I’d love to do this myself.”

One would expect a chance meeting in, say, Paris or Florence to be the scenario in which Doyle got his look-in. Rather, it was on a dusty salt flat in Bolivia where, while on holiday with his wife, an opportunity presented itself to him. There, taking in the near-overwhelming silence of the Salar de Uyuni, he was reminded of nearby farmers raising vicuña: a pint-sized relative of the Alpaca prized for its ultrafine wool.

“I’d first learned about vicuña some years earlier,” Doyle says. “A contact of mine had paid John Cutler something like $50,000 to make a vicuña overcoat for him, so once I got back to La Paz I asked him to put me in touch with the local producers here.” Vicuña wool, for the uninitiated, is among the most prized fabrics in the world, orders of magnitude lighter and finer than merino or cashmere. Endemic to remote, high-altitude plateaus throughout the Andes, most vicuña are wild-farmed and, being slow-growing, hand-sheared just once every three years. Most fleeces are bought in bulk by a well-known luxury knitwear brand that, for reasons that will soon become apparent, shall remain nameless.

Back in the Bolivian capital, Doyle met with someone representing the nation’s rural community of vicuña farmers. There, he learned of the mass exploitation taking place, not just in Bolivia but across other South American countries. Despite the price of vicuña garments steadily rising, the wholesale prices paid to producers for their wool has dropped by a third in the last decade—an issue that, for those inclined to do a quick Google search, has seen our nameless brand hauled in front of a US Congressional caucus.

Aussie entrepreneur Andrew Doyle in Monaco.

“They’re pretty seriously impoverished,” says Doyle. “They’re very isolated. They’re up on this plateau, really struggling day to day. Meanwhile these big brands are buying up the bulk of the wool—which is not cheap—and yet the farmers are seeing almost none of the profits. That’s when all the pieces came together for Mehri and me. We said: ‘This is it.’”

“I think it was even the next day,” he continues, “I got back in touch with them and said: ‘What if we start a company that can make the finest product in the world and we’ll give you 10 percent of everything we make in profit?’ And they just said, ‘That’s exactly what we’ve been looking for.’ As the story evolved, I felt 10 percent wasn’t enough. So now we reserve 10 percent for communities in South America, and then another 10 percent for a range of charities around both Monaco [where Andrew Doyle has a factory] and Africa, with a focus on people who really need it.”

 

This is, of course, all just empty talk without the product to back it up. And while Formehri is still very much a brand in its larval stage, the quality of its garments is rapidly garnering acclaim. The brand’s core range revolves around sweaters and cardigans, spun at a family-owned mill in Bologna and hand-finished in Monaco—made to order and priced accordingly. Formehri’s sweaters start at around $7,500, its shawl-neck cardigans tipping the fiscal scales at around $21,900.

Already, this plucky upstart is turning heads in the right circles. The brand recently completed a trunk show at London’s Baudoin & Lange and has recently begun a residency at famed Parisian tailors Camps de Luca. “We met Andrew many years ago as a client,” founder Julien De Luca tells us. “The philosophy behind Formehri is very similar to our own vision of craftsmanship. Formehri understands craftsmanship, patience and the time necessary to create not just a garment, but a story and a distinct moment behind each piece. Formehri goes far beyond a brand—it comes from a man truly dedicated to excellence.”

 

 

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Overall Winner: Rolls-Royce Spectre

The marque’s first fully electric ultra-luxury coupe takes our top honour for the year.

By Vince Jackson 24/03/2025

Neither the Honourable Charles Rolls nor Sir Henry Royce were car guys, not initially anyway. First and foremost, they were electricity men, apostles of the current. The former’s obsession flowered early; aged nine, the young Brit was already toying with this burgeoning fin de siecle phenomenon, mounting electrical rigs at the family’s ancestral pile in Wales. At the same time, a grown-up Royce was busy earning his entrepreneurial chops, heading a thriving enterprise in Manchester that made small domestic appliances—doorbells, lamps, fuses and the like.

It is, then, little wonder the pair were early electric-car adopters, experimenting with the energy after launching their nascent automobile company in 1904. Though electricity eventually lost out to combustion in the arm-wrestle for early-20th-century tech supremacy, anyone who has ever sat in or steered the Rolls-Royce Spectre—the marque’s first fully electric ultra-luxury coupe—will tell you that the 120 years it has taken for the company to disrupt the entire industry has been worth the wait. Revenge is sweet. And silent.

Rolls-Royce’s “magic carpet ride” has been synonymous with the brand since debuting in 2003’s Phantom VII, but the sensation of deep-space-like serenity has been compounded to the nth degree in the absence of oil power (though, admittedly, few Rolls-Royces throughout history can be described as rowdy). On occasion, one almost feels transcendentally detached from the current time dimension, as the Planar Suspension System’s cameras scan tarmac conditions ahead—adjusting settings in real time to proffer maximum comfort—and the vehicle’s aerodynamic silhouette makes a quiet mockery of wind resistance and other established laws of physics. 

Factor in that other meditative proprietary feature, the Starlight Headliner, which projects 4,796 fibre-optic stars onto the roof and two doors, and before long the Spectre is morphing into something beyond a mere automobile—echoes of a life-affirming business-class-jet flight, flashes of sub-orbital-spacecraft awe.

Other determinants tipped the balance in the Spectre’s favour when the time came for our judges to nail their sails to the mast: the cabin’s handcrafted wood, leather and metal detailing; the optional Champagne Chest for pure, unabashed extravagance of it all; and those 23-inch wheels, the first time Rolls has fitted this size to a coupe since 1920s, lend the vehicle an air of Great Gatsby meets late-’90s hip-hop cool.

Most of all, however, the Spectre takes centre position on this year’s podium for broader, existential reasons. Because when the history of post-Prius electric motoring is eventually written, the production of this EV will surely be recognised as a hill-cresting moment in technology, a landmark in modern engineering, the exact point when the power struggle between electricity and combustion erred towards the new-but-old energy. The best Rolls-Royce ever? Maybe. The best EV ever? You know it.

So, Spectre: take the podium, wear the wreath, pop the Dom P—the world is yours.

 

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Best Car Design: Maserati Gran Turismo

A sculpted, long-hooded fastback designed to turn heads.

By Vince Jackson 24/03/2025

In Italy, beauty is not optional, it is demanded. This is a nation whose fashion houses treat clothing as high art; a people to whom hand-rolling individual pasta pieces into decorative shapes is an artisanal obsession; a country that employs polizia who’ve been plucked straight from the Milanese catwalks… or that is how it seems. 

Cars are, of course, not immune from Italy’s rat-race of beautification, and to stand out in the company of auto aestheticians like Ferrari, Lamborghini and Alfa Romeo is no cinch—and yet this year Maserati managed to do so with the Gran Turismo, a sculpted, long-hooded fastback (hand-built in the motherland, natch) that will keep Modena’s chiropractors minted for the model’s life term, given how many unprepared Tuscan neck muscles will be craning as this peach homes sashays by.

While surface-level joy can be had swooning at the Gran Turismo, the allure runs deeper than just elegant lines and sexy rims. The interior hosts a quiet riot of high-end materials—leather, carbon fibre, Alcantara—which collude to create the refined cabin tableau.

Comeliness aside, it would be churlish, and vaguely vacuous, not to mention what a beguilling motor this Maserati is. Rivals in the GT firmament may flex more raw power, but few will be able clock the big testosterone numbers with such composure—like a manicured Donna di Classe whose immaculately quaffed hair refuses to be ruffled in the wind. Even so, its 0-100 km/h sprint time of 2.7 seconds stands as one of the best in class.

Ultimately, there is good reason why grand tourer cars tend to be the purest expression of automotive beauty: their modus operandi is delivering long, comfortable, cross-country journeys with panache—and no one wants to squander life’s precious hours in an ugly car, not least an Italian.

The Numbers (Trofeo model)

Engine: 3.0-litre Nettuno twin-turbo V6

Power: 410 kW

Torque: 650 Nm

Transmission: 8-speed auto

Acceleration (0-100 km/h): 3.5 seconds

Top speed: 320 km/h

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