A Toast to 12 of the Best Grower-Producer Champagnes

Let’s raise a glass to these independent French winemakers. 

By Belinda Aucott-christie 24/01/2024

A new wave of French winemakers is forging their own path in Champagne. In one generation they have revolutionised hundreds of years of tradition and ushered in an entirely new approach. It’s an experimental attitude energised by a love of farming and a commitment to craft.

Industry insiders call them “growers producers” (or “growers” for short) because they no longer sell their grapes exclusively to the big houses or négociants and maintain a focus on boutique labels. Each year they bottle idiosyncratic wines of high quality and distribute them in small quantities which only adds to their rarity. Together they demonstrate passion for making Champagne that conveys a deep sense of place. Their methods are so revelatory that they’re beginning to influence some of Champagne’s biggest players like Louis Roederer.

Grower releases are healthier because they use fewer chemicals and have lower added sugar content. Often they are made from single vineyard and single grape varieties. For example just chardonnay, just pinot noir, or just pinot meunier.

If you love Champagne and have already experienced the grand marques, expand your connoisseurship with the standout grower offerings below.

Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Millesime 2014

 

Creamy, layered, rich

Known as the “sommelier’s Champagne”, a coveted drop, especially in vintage styles. (The village of Ambonnay, where it is grown, is lauded for its abundance of decadent grand cru fruit.) The 2014 vintage is made from 40-year-old vines and is a seductive, layered and powerful expression of the region. A bouquet of subtle floral notes that is worth every cent.

$1,050; Five Ways Cellars.com.au

Larmandier Bernier Grand Cru VV du Levant 2012

 

Stone-fruit, mineral fresh, weighty palate 

A husband and wife team from Vertus, Larmandier-Bernier produce some of the best grower Champagne going. This is 100% chardonnay Champagne matured in large-format casks. The alcoholic and malolactic fermentations take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Best to drink on its own or with a delicate shellfish starter.

$380; Fivewaycellars.com.au

Laherte Freres Ultradition NV

 

Lively, light and fleshy

An aperitif-style wine with wonderful ripeness, body and generosity compared to past releases. A non-vintage sparkling wine, the Ultradition is an outstanding entry-point champagne from producer. Aurélien Laherte, one of the most talented vignerons of his generation. An approachable drop that has a gentle red fruit character from the Pinot Noir, with acid that is lively, but not showy. You will want to buy two bottles.

$140; Fivewayscellars.com.au

Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2012

 

Pear, grapefruit and peach

Aÿ is where Ayala and Bollinger are made. At Philiponnat, a little-known house highly regarded by connoisseurs, there is a family history of making wine that dates back to 1552. The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is fleshy and textural. It shows aromas of pear, grapefruit and stone fruit, all mingled with hints of honey, brazil nuts and fresh bread. On the palate, it has concentrated stone fruit at its core, bright acid and a plump, soft mousse.

$1,000; Fivewayscellars.com.au

Agrapart Grand Cru Venus Blanc de Blancs 2016

 

 

 

Citrus, almond, yellow nectarine 

More like a white Burgundy than a Champagne, the Venus comes from a single vineyard in the clay-rich soils of Avize—specifically from a single vineyard and plot known as La Fosse aux Pourceaux. A single-parcel cuvée is made in only tiny quantities each year (which adds to its rarity and desirability). It’s an intense wine that demands food and will be able to handle a main course of lemon sole or even white meat.

$615; fiveways.com.au

Andre Clouet Chalky Brut NV

 

Crisp, salty, creamy 

A reputable boutique house, Clouet produces excellent rosé and non-vintage styles that are terrific value. As a 100% Chardonnay cuvée, this initial release of “Chalky” is made entirely from the remarkable 2013 vintage and dials up the crisp and salty flavours in grapes grown from these chalk-rich soils. Chalk soils have long been considered one of the key resources enabling the region to produce such intense and refined wines.

$130; Fivewayscellars.com.au

NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 744/ 746 Extra Brut

Aromatic, yellow fruit, mineral

Referred to in wine circles as “baby Krug” Jacquesson is known for crafting detailed wines that are matured in casks and made in a blended cuvée style. Acquired by François Pinault, the owner of Château Latour in 2022, founders the Chiquet brothers continue to manage every detail of the wines they produce. The minimal packaging and extra brut style of the Champagne belie the rich, full and delectably chalky profile.

$175; Princewinestore.com.au

Benoit Lahaye NV Brut Nature

Deep, taught and spiced

From a small-scale vineyard that produces true ‘Champagne de vigneron’ quality wines, Benoit Lahaye is made from ripe, biodynamic fruit mainly from the village of Bouzy in Montagne de Reims. A rare wine to see on a wine list, but well worth trying. A wonderful expression of terroir.

$136; acellars.com.au

Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs

 

Citrus, baked bread and creamy cashew

Hailing from Mesnil sur Oger, an all-star part of the region, Pierre Pieter BdB with refined yeast lees, citrus and baked bread aromas followed by faint scents of oyster shell and cashew.  The front palate is backed by a subtle toastiness and some brioche. Finishes dry and finely textured with stimulating acidity and a long savoury aftertaste. 

$230; Cru Cellar and Bar Brisbane

Jacques Selosse Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Version Originale NV

 


Wine-like, textural and generous

This wine has a cult-like following. Only around 3,000 bottles are produced each year and all the Selosse Champagnes are akin to an artistic expression of the region. Version Originale (VO) is a blend of three successive vintages from Avize, Cramant and Oger, but there is more Avize fruit in this release which brings plenty of texture and generosity to the palate. The VO is complex,  more like a white wine or a traditional white Burgundy than your standard sparkling.

$850; United Cellars

Bérêche & Fils Brut Réserve NV

 

Rich, vibrant and refreshing 

Maison Bérêche create stunning expressions and their latest release Brut Reserve NV is no exception. Rich yet refreshing, it hums along the palate with unflagging energy and character. The depth and delicacy of the flavours are unfathomable for an entry-level offering. Must be tasted to be believed.

$93; Princewinestore.com.au

André Jacquart Brut 1er Cru Expérience Blanc De Blancs

Champagne, France

Nutty, grapefruit, complex

The ‘house’ Brut cuvée is a blend of 60% Vertus and 40% Le Mesnil. There is no oak to the nose, instead it shows roasted nuts and complex notes of autolysis. Crisp and dry there is a rich creamy mousse on entry, then fresh grapefruit acidity, a fine mineral thread flowing through to a dry finish. A graceful balance of power and freshness this is a perfect aperitif style to serve by the glass.

$121; acellars.com.au

Frequently Asked Questions

Why choose a ‘grower’ Champagne over a well-known brand?

Buying a grower-producer champagne is casting a vote for the future of the Champagne region itself.  These top makers are independent and they represent the future of Champagne as it transitions to a more sustainable approach to growing the best grapes possible.

What should a good bottle of ‘grower’ Champagne cost?

The best advice is to buy the best you can afford. From time to time it’s prudent to try a bigger, bolder Champagne and spend more—for example by splurging on quality grower blanc de blancs, a rosé or vintage.

You can find fairly good quality grower Champagne like those by André Clouet for $60 per bottle; $100 is pretty standard for non-vintage wines and then the quality skyrockets from about $150 upwards. You can still get a great grower Champagne for around $100-120 dollars in good wine stores, and they will cost anywhere between $250-400 on restaurant wine lists. But in very basic terms you can’t go wrong.

How do I know whether the Champagne I am choosing will be dry?

Like fashion, Champagne has instructions on the label. The term Brut means dry. Extra Brut is very dry. Brut Nature means very little sugar has been added. Brut Nature Champagne is more common with global warming and it will be a crunchier and zestier wine with a less lush, or viscous mouthfeel. Zero Dosage means little or no sugar has been added to the final wine so this is bone-dry Champagne. If you want a light refreshing aperitif wine then zero dosage can be good. It will still pair well with a rich entrée or canapé.

Sec means sweet in French, and Demi-Sec means semi-sweet. Avoid these styles if you can. You will find that even if you are serving your Champagne with cake or rich desserts, a dry style with great acid and nervy will help to cut through sugar and cream.

Where do I go to source these speciality wines? How do I know I am buying the best quality?

Most hatted restaurants and dedicated wine bars will have a good grower Champagne on the wine list. Use your restaurant sommelier to help you find something that is to your taste and budget. Good wine stores such as the City Wine Shop in Melbourne, Best Cellars in Darlinghurst, Prince Wine Store Sydney and Melbourne, Cru Cellar and Bar on James Street in Brisbane, East End Cellars in Adelaide along with Five Ways Cellars and Annandale Cellars in Sydney are absolute experts who can guide you to finding a superb wine in your budget.

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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