Robb Read: What Happens Next?

2020 was the year everything changed. Here’s what lies ahead across luxury travel, personal health, technology and more.

By David Smiedt 22/04/2021

With perhaps the exception of two global wars, no era has redrawn the world’s boundaries quite like 2020.

Elements for so long taken for granted— family, freedom of movement, healthcare and life expectancy—have become increasingly precious commodities, with few aspects of contemporary life what they used to be, including the notions of elevated living.

So what does the future hold? We explore this sentiment with one of the world’s most lauded futurists, Anders Sorman-Nilsson, to map the future of travel, personal health, personal concierge services and home technology.

Luxury Travel

Since vast swathes of the planet are essentially no-go zones (and will continue to be so for some time yet), it seems we have no choice but to look above and beyond. Following suborbital test flights in December 2020, it seems likely that the first of the 600-plus passengers, who each paid around $330,000 for a Virgin Galactic flight, will finally slide into their exclusive Under Armour suits and blast off in 2021, from a purpose-built space port in New Mexico, alongside celebrity clientele like Justin Bieber and Leonardo DiCaprio.

Closer to home, luxury travel will be all about contraction, with the focus on smaller groups enjoying greater access to locations and guides. You don’t just get an expert, you get the expert. For example, companies like The Luminary Experiences will facilitate trips such as a luxury jaunt through Naples and Sorrento with Eataly top chef Simone Falco; or an Iceland meander with Game of Thrones actor Hafþór Júlíus Björnsson.

Health concerns will remain paramount, but the medical care that high-end guests receive will shape-shift. Renowned and ascendant luxury travel brand Soneva already has protocols in place where guests are immediately tested for Covid-19 on arrival at the airport, then isolate in their bungalows for between six and 24 hours as results are processed at a tempo few government-funded facilities can match.

Moving forward, the focus will be on prevention rather than containment, and the medical facilities of resorts will no doubt be able to offer Covid-19 vaccines to those who have not previously been inoculated. In the meantime, expect to see every other room being left vacant to put a suitable physical distance between guests, and a heightened array of in-room services to restrict high-traffic communal areas.

Elsewhere, exclusive hire is expected to further rise and dominate the market (think $13,530 a night at Queensland’s Bedarra Island for yourself and friends across nine premium villas, including unlimited Jacquart champagne).

And while it may be a seriously clunky portmanteau, “voluntourism” is also set to feature as an increasing part of high-end travel offerings—mainly because 2020 brought into sharp focus both the privileges many view as day-to-day life and a burgeoning desire to give back to visited communities beyond mere tourism dollars. An example can be found at Thailand’s spectacular waterside Six Senses Yao Noi, where you can devote anywhere from an hour up to a few days teaching local children about a topic that suits your abilities, including basic skills such as counting and English phrasing.

Aside from a better marrying of visitors’ specific skill sets with the needs of individuals in communities, the future of voluntourism will eventually shift focus from the well-intentioned to the well-researched. A recent article in the New York Times found that Americans travelling to developing countries to construct buildings actually took away jobs from capable locals, and that long-term planning for volunteer projects is often lacking.

For example, building a school is not terribly helpful without future plans to staff, supply and maintain it. Instead, resorts such as the Sandals & Beaches chain in the Caribbean have partnered with charities like Pack With A Purpose, where visitors bring in a backpack of stationery and school supplies for children whose education has been hampered without them. Less mission statements and more actual long-term help.

The Futurist: Sorman-Nilsson, the acclaimed author of Seamless: A Hero’s Journey of Digital Disruption, Adaptation and Human Transformation, sees the future of exclusive and elevated travel as a move from the experiential to the transformative.

“True luxury in this sphere will take the form of people wanting to emerge from the experience feeling different about themselves in some way. It’s no longer just enough to see something,” says Sorman-Nilsson. “The emphasis will be on a level of high-end immersion that somehow transforms a traveller, whether it’s a yoga camp or ayahuasca retreat.”

Case in point, the Rytmia Life Advancement Center in Costa Rica’s Guanacaste province—a beachside enclave with farm-to-table, locally sourced organic menus, onsite spa and medically licensed professionals on hand to guide clients through ayahuasca.

Home Technology

In terms of covetable hardware, the notion of massive screens warranting their own rooms in our homes or dominating living areas is on the wane as foldable UHD versions will emerge from secret spaces as and when needed. The holy grail of true 3D—sans the bulky glasses—will also be conquered sooner rather than later.

Transportability of tech will also open up entertainment options that previously limited us to home or a shared space like a cinema or cinema room.

Sorman-Nilsson provides an example whereby just a few years ago, you could re-create Moonlight Cinema in a back garden with a projector, screen, some speakers and day bed. In the near future, however, high-performance and increasingly transportable AV tech will fit into whatever milieu is desired, rather than it dictating the parameters of functionality.

“Imagine,” offers Sorman-Nilsson, “the kind of cinema experience where you’re out on the yacht just off [Sydney’s] Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park and just roll out that piece of equipment, sit down on some bean bags and watch a film about the Australian Outback while actually in the Australian Outback.”

To make this whimsy a reality, portability that doesn’t sacrifice performance will be the hallmark of future luxe tech.

LG’s Signature Oled R is a harbinger of things to come. At 65 inches, the TV screen rolls neatly into its base much like a sunshade over a verandah. While cost and availability are yet to be determined in Australia (though a price tag around $85-90k has been mooted), the device is already on sale internationally.

Elsewhere, Sony will this year roll out “cognitive processing” as part of its new Bravia XR Masters series, due mid-year. It means an allegedly highly immersive viewing experience across 8K LED and HDR screens—the new tech able to “cross-analyse and optimise hundreds of thousands of elements in the blink of an eye”, according to the marketing guff.

The resulting images are driven by a chip that divides the screen into numerous zones which then detect a “focal point” within the picture—mimicking the processing of the human brain and adjusting elements like contrast, colour and detail to always deliver the best picture possible.

But what to watch? The lockdown period emphasised the existence of a ravenous global market of individuals who will pay exorbitant monthly subscriptions to watch new releases at home, therefore negating the issue of having to share the cineplex with the virally suspect public. What’s being sold here, essentially, is access and exclusivity. Only available in the United States for now, one example is HBO Max. Known as an “over the top” streaming service, it has struck a deal with WarnerMedia whereby all of the latter’s 2021 cinema releases will also be available simultaneously on the streamer.

Ten months since inception, it’s only now that the true value is beginning to manifest. This year will see Warner release 17 feature films on HBO Max while Comcast’s Universal Pictures will make films available online 17 days after hitting AMC theatres.

Back to hardware, the much-vaunted but rather vague-sounding sphere of smart home gadgetry will see booms in two areas—both of which have been prompted by the Covid pandemic. The first is home tele-conferencing and an upgrade from the rather unflattering bog-standard Zoom experience. We’re talking high-def cameras that automatically adjust for lighting conditions, microphones that ignore surrounding noise and lighting systems you can control with your voice. Think of it as the cyber version of Vaseline on the lens.

The second boom in luxe tech will be home sanitation. The most high-profile example is Molekule, which in February 2020 raised $75 million in seed funding and whose sleek devices are pulling viruses (hello?), mould and bacteria from the air in homes from Miami to Maroochydore.

UV light as a sanitation tool will also continue to find favour with items like Phonesoap-—to clean mobile phones—and LG’s InstaView refrigerators, which were introduced at January’s CES Electronics Show and use proprietary UVNano technology to remove up to 99.99 percent of bacteria on the water dispenser’s tap.

This fridge further taps into the trend by being voice operated so that it opens on command—limiting the number of hands going in and around your food. Expect, too, a wealth of incoming touchless, intelligent toilets.

The Futurist: “It used to be that branding 1.0 was a brand just saying, ‘This is what Jaguar Land Rover stands for as a luxury brand.’ Then brand 2.0 was the era of social media where increasingly we hijacked brands and we started leaving reviews about them.”

Sorman-Nilsson adds that the 3.0 era in which we now live has shifted from monologue to dialogue to trialogue, where the brand, the owner and the object itself communicate.

“So think of the object as a Tesla and imagine being a Tesla owner a couple of hurricane seasons ago in Florida and you’re fleeing with your family away from the hurricane down the highway when your Tesla battery starts running low. You’re probably feeling pretty anxious at this stage, but then all of a sudden across the dashboard comes a message from Elon Musk saying, ‘Hey, fret not, human. We’ve just remotely upgraded the firmware in your battery and your computer in your car so that you can safely get out of harm’s way.’

“This is a true story where Tesla predicatively solved, through technology, the client’s problem before it became a reality. So the relationship with that cold piece of technology has now become anthropomorphised. I think you’ll see more of that humanisation of technology.”

The idea of products that know what we want and need before we do? Where do we sign up?

Personal Health & Fitness

In the near future, the worlds of fitness, wellness and mental health will be virtually indistinguishable—the key word here being “virtually”. Technological convergence in this incredibly fast moving and increasingly lucrative sector will mean two things. The first is that technologies, equipment and metrics once available only to elite athletes at high-performance centres will be offered to suburban Lycra wearers.

While you may not be covering 100 metres in a match for Usain Bolt, you will have access to similar levels of motion analysis—which overlays your movements against a model of computer-generated perfection to see where more muscle strength or a tweak of form is needed. Leading the field here is Notch, a set of 3D water-resistant motion trackers that you affix to certain points on the body to record personal dynamics through a smartphone.

Myriad other factors such as respiratory metrics to maximise oxygen intake can also be factored into the equation to boost performance, enabling you to run, swim, cycle, row and swing a club or racket with greater power and efficiency. One start-up that is already generating interest and is past prototype development is Yopi.

By teaming a Fitbit-style sensor with a custom-built app, it measures biomarkers in the skin and sweat that are correlated with oxygen intake. It then, “instructs, in real time, the trainee according to his momentary physiology and goals”.

The second element is such training will take place at home. Most new domestic builds now feature so-called wellness spaces—as opposed to mere “home gyms”—given that 2020 has drawn a thick line under the importance of personal resilience and wellbeing, with many larger studios forced to permanently closed.

One must-have item for 2021 is Mirror, a piece of smart fitness hardware that allows users to not only stream customised workouts but simultaneously view themselves doing so to access real-time feedback on form. It means skipping the small talk with a PT named Jake about what he got up to on the weekend before being barked at through a set of personalised crunches. Seen as a true fitness game changer—and one on an ascendant rate of global take up—athletic apparel company Lululemon shelled out $672 million to acquire Mirror in 2020.

Also likely to increasingly feature in domicile wellness spaces are Hydrow rowers and Liteboxer boxing machines—bits of exemplary kit that deliver a workout and personalised digital training plans or classes, reflecting the success of the acclaimed Peloton training bike.

In terms of mental health treatment, one of the growing future trends will involve increased technological mediation—albeit with an appropriate level of human connection. What this means in real terms is that instead of making an appointment to see someone when you’re in crisis or having to actually talk to a stranger on the phone—its own type of intimidation, especially for introverts—digital, text-message-based counselling will eventually come to the fore, promising immediacy, mobility and anonymity. All of which are prerequisites of the millennial age.

Elsewhere, expect to hear the term “age management” increasingly thrown around. The target market will be patients seeking—and able to afford—direct “age doctors”, and what is generally a heady outlay for a personalised “prescription” of supplements and hormone replacement therapies. The aim? Optimal physical and mental function, and overall quality of life as the client gets older.

Just know that such practices are often seen as controversial.

The futurist: The future of “fitness” as an umbrella term, according to Sorman-Nilsson, means dramatically heightened levels of customised services, much of which rests in acute personal programs, testing and science.

“We’re going to see less fragmentation and more expertise. So rather than having a dietician and a PT, and then a separate yoga instructor, for the real luxury experience you’ll end up with something more akin to a board of advisors. They will in turn be a conduit to a single integrated experience of someone who keeps you accountable towards your bio-hacking.

“It will be almost a minute-by-minute engagement where, for example, they’ll instruct you to have that cold shower at the precise time it will do most good for muscle recovery and inform when your body is in a state of ketosis. It’s also going to be integrated with DNA testing to make sure that everything that is prescribed suits you specifically as an individual.”

Sorman-Nilsson points out that as stigmas continue to fall around discussion of mental health and depression, the open use of psychologists will ultimately rise.

Personal Concierge Services

Another high-end service that will integrate cutting-edge tech with a level of personalised service no machine can (yet) muster is that of personal concierges. On the software side of the equation, bots will become smarter, faster and more intuitive so that by the time you, for example, check into a hotel, it will have received personal data that registers a preferred choice of scotch, favoured in-room climate and scent settings, and dietary requirements well in advance. They will also know you prefer ABC news over SBS and baths over showers.

This will in turn free up actual human beings to focus on the more important tasks where a level of EQ (emotional intelligence) is involved—because the IQ can be left to the cloud.

One of these will be securing access to coveted events. Until mass Covid inoculations are a reality, restricted capacity will be the hallmark for sports and concerts. The competition for exclusive football boxes, performances at the Opera House or that Barca/Real Madrid game will become fiercer than ever. Concierge wise, those with the best combination of contacts and cash will triumph as resources diminish.

In the post-Covid world, the remit of personal concierges will also expand into property, and those appropriately qualified will be wooed hard. Whether you’re looking to buy, invest or splash out on a single-occupancy holiday rental, personal concierges are all about saving time and anguish—and few areas consume more of both than finding somewhere to live. The mere fact that they will cut back on the time you have to spend interacting with real estate agents sells itself.

Where the personal concierge service industry will buck global trends is that its customer-facing dimensions will become less centralised. In other words, there will be bureaus dotted around the world where, for example, you can actually speak to someone in Tangiers about that hidden gem they discovered in a souk not last summer, but last night.

Exemplifying the movement is the Quintessentially group, which operates 60 offices staffed by 1,500 specialists speaking 15 languages. Its pillars run across property, wine curation, education, art consultancy and personal shopping. In one notable coup, the group famously managed to close down the Sydney Harbour Bridge for a marriage proposal. According to Haute Today, the company also secured an Egyptian pyramid for a party on three days’ notice and acquired a black Hermès Birkin bag in 48 hours (waiting lists can run to six years). And forget front-row tickets, they can, and have, supplied Elton John as private entertainment.

The Futurist: “Any kind of experience that empathetically touches the enduringly analogue human heart is going to have a luxury premium attached to it,” says Sorman-Nilsson.

It’s in what can’t be digitised that true luxury blossoms—in other words, the encasing allure of the human factor informing a great concierge service.

“Behind the scenes, the back end is highly digitised. For example, my tailor in Sydney has all the trappings of an old-school kind of British establishment [out front]. But then, of course, everything just goes into a back end that is highly effective in terms of their global supply chain. It’s that combination of having a great concierge, the friendly human face, but
then there’s a digital interface that makes their work very efficient.”

 

 

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version comes with an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel, and will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games, since 1932.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics; turn over each timepiece and instead of finding a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplatntis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they have delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, at the top end of the scale, you’re looking at 85K for the all-gold Speedmaster, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. In comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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Bill Henson Show Opens at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Dark, grainy and full of shadows Bill Henson’s latest show draws on 35 mm colour film shot in New York City in 1989.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 20/04/2024

Bill Henson is one of Australia’s best-known contemporary photographers. When a show by this calibre of artist opens here, the art world waits with bated breath to see what he will unveil.

This time, he presents a historically important landscape series that chronicles a time in New York City that no longer exists. It’s a nostalgic trip back in time, a nocturnal odyssey through the frenetic, neon-lit streets of a long-lost America.

Known for his chiaroscuro style, Henson’s cinematic photographs often transform his subject into ambiguous objects of beauty. This time round, the show presents a mysterious walk through the streets of Manhattan, evoking a seedy, yet beautiful vision of the city. 

Bill Henson Untitled, 1989. Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley Gallery
Installation shot of Bill Henson’s show,’The Liquid Night’ at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Relying on generative gaps, these landscapes result from Henson mining his archive of negatives and manipulating them to produce a finished print. Sometimes, they are composed by a principle of magnification, with Henson honing in on details, and sometimes, they are created through areas of black being expanded to make the scene more cinematic and foreboding. Like silence in a film or the pause in a pulse, the black suggests the things you can’t see. 

Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Henson’s illustrious career has spanned four decades and was memorably marred by controversy over a series of nude adolescent photographs shown in 2008, which made him front-page news for weeks. This series of portraits made Henson the subject of a police investigation during which no offence was found. 

In recent years, Henson has been a sharp critic of cancel culture, encouraging artists to contribute something that will have lasting value and add to the conversation, rather than tearing down the past.

Untitled 2/1, 1990-91 from the series Paris Opera Project type C photograph 127 x 127 cm; series of 50 Edition of 10 + AP 2

His work deals with the liminal space between the mystical and the real, the seen and unseen, the boundary between youth and adulthood.

His famous Paris Opera Project, 1990-91, pictured above, is similarly intense as the current show, dwelling on the border between the painterly and the cinematic.

Bill Henson’s ‘The Liquid Night’ runs until 11 May 2024 at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, 8 Soudan Ln, Paddington NSW; roslynoxley9.com.au 

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Polar Opposites

A journey north to one of the harshest, remotest spots on Earth couldn’t be more luxurious. 

By Michael Verdon 18/04/2024

A century ago, an expedition to the North Pole involved dog sleds and explorers in heavy, fur-lined clothes, windburned and famished after weeks of trudging across ice floes, finally planting their nations’ flags in the barren landscape. These days, if you’re a tourist, the only way to reach 90 degrees north latitude, the geographic North Pole, is aboard Le Commandant Charcot, a six-star hotel mated to a massive, 150-metre ice-breaking hull. 

My wife, Cathy, and I are among the first group of tourists aboard Ponant’s new expedition icebreaker, the world’s only Polar Class 2–rated cruise ship (of seven levels of ice vessel, second only to research and military vessels in ability to manoeuvre in Arctic conditions). Our arrival on July 14 couldn’t be more different from explorer Robert Peary’s on April 6, 1909. On that date, he reported, he staked a small American flag—sewed by his wife—into the Pole, joined by four Inuits and his assistant, Matthew Henson, a Black explorer from Maine who was with Peary on his two previous Arctic expeditions. (Peary’s claim of being first to the Pole was quickly disputed by another American, Frederick Cook, who insisted he’d spent two days there a year earlier. Scholars now view both claims with skepticism.) 

Our 300-plus party’s landing, on Bastille Day, features the captain of the French ship driving around in an all-terrain vehicle with massive wheels and an enormous tricolour flag on the back, guests dressed in stylish orange parkas celebrating on the ice, and La Marseillaise, France’s national anthem, blaring from loudspeakers. After an hour of taking selfies and building snow igloos in the icescape, with temperatures in the relatively balmy low 30s, we head back into our heated sanctuary for mulled wine and freshly baked croissants. Mission accomplished. Flags planted. Now, lunch. 

As a kid, I was fascinated by stories of adventurers trying to reach the North Pole without any means of rescue. In the 19th century, most of their attempts ended in disaster—ships getting trapped in the ice, a hydrogen balloon crashing, even cannibalism. It wasn’t until Cook and Peary reportedly set foot there that the race to the North Pole was really on. Norwegian Roald Amundsen, the first to reach the South Pole, in 1911, is credited with being the first to document a trip over the North Pole, which he did in 1926 in the airship Norge. In 1977, the nuclear-powered icebreaker Arktika became the first surface vessel to make it to the North Pole. Since then, only 18 other ships have completed the voyage. 

Le Commandant Charcot

Visiting the North Pole seemed about as likely for me as walking on the Moon. It wasn’t even on my bucket list. Then came Le Commandant Charcot, which was named after France’s most beloved polar explorer and reportedly cost about US$430 million (around $655 million) to build. The irony of visiting one of the planet’s most remote and inhospitable points while travelling in the lap of luxury doesn’t escape me or anyone else I speak with on the voyage. Danie Ferreira, from Cape Town, South Africa, describes it as “an ensemble of contradictions bordering on the absurd”. Ferreira, who is on board with his wife, Suzette, is a veteran of early-explorer-style high-Arctic journeys, months-long treks involving dog sleds and real toil and suffering. He booked this trip to obtain an official North Pole stamp for an upcoming two-volume collection of his photographs, Out in the Cold, documenting his polar adventures. “Reserving the cabin felt like a betrayal of my expeditionary philosophy,” he says with a laugh. 

Then, like the rest of us, he embraces the contradictions. “This is like the first time I saw the raw artistry of Cirque du Soleil,” he explains. “Everything is beyond my wildest expectations, unrelatable to anything I’ve experienced.”

One of the ship’s scientists tests the ice with a passenger.

The 17-day itinerary launches from the Norwegian settlement of Longyearbyen, Svalbard, the northernmost town in the Arctic Circle, and heads 1,186 nautical miles to the North Pole, then back again. As a floating hotel, the vessel is exceptional: 123 balconied staterooms and suites, the most expensive among them duplexes with butler service (prices range from around $58,000 to $136,000 per person, double occupancy); a spa with a sauna, massage therapists, and aestheticians; a gym and heated indoor pool. The boat weighs more than 35,000 tons, enabling it to break ice floes like “a chocolate bar into little pieces, rather than slice through them”, according to Captain Patrick Marchesseau. Six-metre-wide stainless-steel propellers, he adds, were designed to “chew ice like a blender”. 

Marchesseau, a tall, lanky, 40-ish mariner from Brittany, impeccable in his navy uniform but rocking royal-blue boat shoes, proves to be a charming host. Never short of a good quip, he’s one of three experienced ice captains who alternate at the helm of Charcot throughout the year. He began piloting Ponant ships through drifting ice floes in Antarctica in 2009, when he took the helm of Le Diamant, Ponant’s first expedition vessel. “An epic introduction,” Marchesseau calls those early voyages, but the isolated, icebound North Pole aboard a larger, more complicated vessel is potentially an even thornier challenge. “We’ll first sail east where the ice is less concentrated and then enter the pack at 81 degrees,” he tells a lecture hall filled with passengers on day one. “We don’t plan to stop until we get to the North Pole.” 

Around us, the majority of the other 101 guests are older French couples; there are also a few extended families, some other Europeans, mostly German and Dutch, as well as 10 Americans. Among the supporting cast are six research scientists and 221 staff, including 18 naturalist guides from a variety of countries. 

The first six days are more about the journey than the destination. Cathy and I settle into our comfortable stateroom, enjoy the ocean views from our balcony, make friends with other guests and naturalists, frequent the spa, and indulge in the contemporary French cuisine at Nuna, which is often jarred by ice passing under the hull, as well as at the more casual Sila (Inuit for “sky”). There are the usual cruise events: the officers’ gala, wine pairings, daily French pastries, Broadway-style shows, opera singers and concert pianists. Initially, I worry about “Groundhog Day” setting in, but once we hit patchy ice floes on day two, it’s clear that the polar party is on. The next day, we’re ensconced in the ice pack. 

Veterans of Arctic journeys immediately feel at home. Ferreira, often found on the observation deck 15 metres above the ice with his long-lensed cameras, is in his element snapping different patterns and colours of the frozen landscape. “It feels like combining low-level flying with an out-of-body experience,” he says. “Whenever the hull shudders against the ice, I have a reality check.” 

Spotting a small colony of penguins. IMAGE: Ponant

“I came back because I love this ice,” adds American Gin Millsap, who with her husband, Jim, visited the North Pole in 2015 aboard the Russian nuclear icebreaker Fifty Years of Victory, which for obvious reasons is no longer a viable option for Americans and many Europeans. “I love the peace, beauty and calmness.” 

It is easy to bliss out on the endless barren vistas, constantly morphing into new shapes, contours and shades of white as the weather moves from bright sunshine to howling snowstorms—sometimes within the course of a few hours. I spend a lot of time on the cold, windswept bow, looking at the snow patterns, ridges and rivers flowing within the pale landscape as the boat crunches through the ice. It feels like being in a black-and-white movie, with no colours except the turquoise bottoms of ice blocks overturned by the boat. Beautiful, lonely, mesmerising. 

Rather than a solid landmass, the Arctic ice pack is actually millions of square kilometres of ice floes, slowly pushed around by wind and currents. The size varies according to season: this past winter, the ice was at its fifth-lowest level on record, encompassing 14.6 million square kilometres, while during our cruise it was 4.7 million square kilometres, the 10th-lowest summer number on record. There are myriad ice types—young ice, pancake ice, ice cake, brash ice, fast ice—but the two that our ice pilot, Geir-Martin Leinebø, cares about are first-year ice and old ice. The thinness of the former provides the ideal route to the Pole, while the denseness of the aged variety can result in three-to-eight-metre-high ridges that are potentially impassable. Leinebø is no novice: in his day job, he’s the captain of Norway’s naval icebreaker, KV Svalbard, the first Norwegian vessel to reach the North Pole, in 2019. 

Atlantic puffin, typically seen along the coast of Svalbard.

It’s not a matter of just pointing the boat due north and firing up the engine. Leinebø zigzags through the floes. A morning satellite feed and special software aid in determining the best route; the ship’s helicopter sometimes scouts 65 or so kilometres ahead, and there’s a sonar called the Sea Ice Monitoring System (SIMS). But mostly Leinebø uses his eyes. “You look for the weakest parts of the ice—you avoid the ridges because that means thickness and instead look for water,” he says. “If the ‘water sky’ in the distance is dark, it’s reflecting water like a mirror, so you head in that direction.” 

Everyone on the bridge is surprised by the lack of multi-year ice, but with more than a hint of disquietude. Though we don’t have to ram our way through frozen ridges, the advance of climate change couldn’t be more apparent. Environmentalists call the Arctic ice sheet the canary in the coal mine of the planet’s climate change for good reason: it is happening here first. “It’s not right,” mutters Leinebø. “There’s just too much open water for July. Really scary.” 

The Arctic ice sheet has shrunk to about half its 1985 size, and as both mariners and scientists on board note, the quality of the ice is deteriorating. “It’s happening faster than our models predicted,” says Marisol Maddox, senior arctic analyst at the Polar Institute of the Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars. “We’re seeing major events like Greenland’s ice sheet melting and sliding into the ocean—that wasn’t forecasted until 2070.” The consensus had been that the Arctic would be ice-free by 2050, but many scientists now expect that day to come in the 2030s. 

That deterioration, it turns out, is why the three teams of scientists are on the voyage—two studying the ice and the other assessing climate change’s impact on plankton. As part of its commitment to sustainability, Ponant has designed two research labs—one wet and one dry—on a lower deck. “We took the advice of many scientists for equipping these labs,” says Hugues Decamus, Charcot’s chief engineer, clearly proud of the nearly US$12 million facilities. 

The combined size of the labs, along with a sonar room, a dedicated server for the scientists, and a meteorological station on the vessel’s top deck, totals 130 square metres—space that could have been used for revenue generation. Ponant also has two staterooms reserved for scientists on each voyage and provides grants for travel expenses. The line doesn’t cherrypick researchers but instead asks the independent Arctic Research Icebreaker Consortium (ARICE) to choose participants based on submissions. 

Birds take flight as passengers explore on a Zodiac excursion.

The idea, says the vessel’s science officer on this voyage, Daphné Buiron, is to make the process transparent and minimise the appearance of greenwashing. “Yes, this alliance may deliver a positive public image for the company, but this ship shows we do real science on board,” she says. The labs will improve over time, adds Decamus, as the ship amasses more sophisticated equipment. 

Research scientists and tourist vessels don’t typically mix. The former, wary of becoming mascots for the cruise lines’ sustainability marketing efforts, and cognisant of the less-than-pristine footprint of many vessels, tend to be wary. The cruise lines, for their part, see scientists as potentially high maintenance when paying customers should be the priority. But there seemed to be a meeting of the minds, or at least a détente, on Le Commandant Charcot. 

“We discuss this a lot and are aware of the downsides, but also the positives,” says Franz von Bock und Polach, head of the institute for ship structural design and analysis at Hamburg University of Technology, specialising in the physics of sea ice. Not only does Charcot grant free access to these remote areas, but the ship will also collect data on the same route multiple times a year with equipment his team leaves on board, offering what scientists prize most: repeatability. “One transit doesn’t have much value,” he says. “But when you measure different seasons, regions and years, you build up a more complex picture.” So, more than just a research paper: forecasts of ice conditions for long-term planning by governments as the Arctic transforms. 

Nils Haëntjens, from the University of Maine, is analysing five-millilitre drops of water on a high-tech McLane IFCB microscope. “The instrument captures more than 250,000 images of phytoplankton along the latitudinal transect,” he says. Charcot has doors in the wet lab that allow the scientists to take water samples, and in the bow, inlets take in water without contaminating it. Two freezers can preserve samples for further research back in university labs. 

Even though the boat won’t stop, the captain and chief engineer clearly want to make the science missions work. Marchesseau dispatches the helicopter with the researchers and their gear 100 kilometres ahead, where they take core samples and measurements. I spot them in their red snowsuits, pulling sleds on an ice floe, as the boat passes. Startled to see living-colour humans on the ice after days of monochrome, I feel a pang of jealousy as I head for a caviar tasting. 

The only other humans we encounter on the journey north are aboard Fifty Years of Victory, the Russian icebreaker. The 160-metre orange- and-black leviathan reached the North Pole a day earlier—its 59th visit—and is on its way back to Murmansk. It’s a classic East meets West moment: the icebreaker, launched just after the collapse of the Soviet Union, meeting the new standard of polar luxury. 

The evening before Bastille Day, Le Commandant Charcot arrives at the North Pole. Because of the pinpoint precision of the GPS, Marchesseau has to navigate back and forth for about 20 minutes—with a bridge full of passengers hushing each other so as not to distract him—until he finds 90 degrees north. That final chaotic approach to the top of the world in the grey, windswept landscape looks like a kid’s Etch A Sketch on the chartplotter, but it is met with rousing cheers. The next morning, with good visibility and light winds, we spill out onto the ice for the celebration, followed by a polar plunge. 

As guests pose in front of flags and mile markers for major cities, the naturalist guides, armed with rifles, establish a wide perimeter to guard against polar bears. The fearless creatures are highly intelligent, with razor-sharp teeth, hooked claws and the ability to sprint at 40 km/h. Males average about three metres tall and weigh around 700 kilos. They are loners that will kill anything—including other bears and even their own cubs. Cathy and I walk around the far edges of the perimeter to enjoy some solitude. Looking out over the white landscape, I know this is a milestone. But it feels odd that getting here didn’t involve any sweat or even a modicum of discomfort. 

Kayaking around an ice floe.

The rest of the week is an entirely different trip. On the return south, we see a huge male polar bear ambling on the ice, looking over his shoulder at us. It is our first sighting of the Arctic’s apex predator, and everyone crowds the observation lounge with long-lensed cameras. The next day, we see another male, this one smaller, running away from the ship. “They have many personalities,” says Steiner Aksnes, head of the expedition team, who has led scientists and film crews in the Arctic for 25 years. We see a dozen on the return to Svalbard, where 3,000 are scattered across the archipelago, outnumbering human residents. 

The last five days we make six stops on different islands, travelling by Zodiac from Charcot to various beaches. On Lomfjorden, as we look on a hundred yards from shore, a mother polar bear protects her two cubs while a young male hovers in the background. On a Zodiac ride off Alkefjellet, the air is alive with birds, including tens of thousands of Brünnich’s guillemots as well as glaucous gulls and kittiwakes, which nest in that island’s cliffs, while a young male polar bear munches on a ring seal, chin glistening red. 

On this part of the trip, the expedition team, mostly 30-something, free-spirited scientists whose areas of expertise range from botany to alpine trekking to whales, lead hikes across different landscapes. The jam-packed schedule sometimes involves three activities per day and includes following the reindeer on Palanderbukta, seeing a colony of 200 walruses on Kapp Lee, hiking the black tundra of Burgerbukta (boasting 3.8-cm-tall willows—said to be the smallest trees in the world and the largest on Svalbard—plus mosquitoes!), watching multiple species of whales breaching offshore, and kayaking the ice floes of Ekmanfjorden. Svalbard is a protected wilderness area, and the cruise lines tailor their schedules so vessels don’t overlap, giving visitors the impression they are setting foot on virgin land. 

Chances to experience that sense of discovery and wonder, even slightly stage-managed ones, are dwindling along with the ice sheet and endangered wildlife. If a stunning trip to a frozen North Pole is on your bucket list, the time to go is now.

Suite bedroom with sliding doors leading to private terrace.

PARADIGM SHIP

For those studying polar ice, a berth aboard Le Commandant Charcot is like a winning lottery ticket. “This cruise ship is one of the few resources scientists can use, because nothing else can get there,” says G. Mark Miller, CEO of research-vessel builder Greenwater Marine Sciences Offshore (GMSO) and a former ship captain for the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). “Then factor in 80 percent of scientists who want to go to sea, can’t, because of the shortage of research vessels.” 

Both Ponant and Viking have designed research labs aboard new expedition vessels as part of their sustainability initiatives. “Remote areas like Antarctica need more data—the typical research is just single data points,” says Damon Stanwell-Smith, Ph.D., head of science and sustainability at Viking. “Every scientist says more information is needed.”  The twin sisterships Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris, which travel to Antarctica, Patagonia, the Great Lakes and Canada, have identical 35-square-metre labs, separated into wet and dry areas and fitted out with research equipment. In hangars below are military-grade rigid-hulled inflatables and two six-person yellow submersibles (the pair on Octantis are named John and Paul, while Polaris’s are George and Ringo). Unlike Ponant, Viking doesn’t have an independent association choose scientists for each voyage. Instead, it partners with the University of Cambridge, the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, and NOAA, which send their researchers to work with Viking’s onboard science officers. 

The cigar lounge which also serves speciality spirits.

“Some people think marine research is sticking some kids on a ship to take measurements,” says Stanwell-Smith. “But we know we can do first-rate science—not spin.”  Other cruise lines are also embracing sustainability initiatives, with coral-reef-restoration projects and water-quality measurements, usually in partnership with universities. Just about every vessel has “citizen-scientist” research programs allowing guests the opportunity to count birds or pick up discarded plastic on beaches. So far, Ponant and Viking are the only lines with serious research labs. Ponant is adding science officers to other vessels in its fleet. As part of the initiatives, scientists deliver onboard lectures and sometimes invite passengers to assist in their research. 

Inneq, the ship’s open-air bar.

Given the shortage of research vessels, Stanwell-Smith thinks this passenger-funded system will coexist nicely with current NGO- and government-owned ships. “This could be a new paradigm for exploring the sea,” he says. “Maybe the next generation of research vessels will look like ours.”

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Watch of the Week: the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon

The new release claims the throne as the world’s thinnest Tourbillon.

By Josh Bozin 19/04/2024

Piaget, the watchmaker’s watchmaker, has once again redefined the meaning of “ultra-thin” thanks to its newest masterpiece, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon—the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch.

In the world of high-watchmaking where thin is never thin enoughlook at the ongoing battle between Piaget, Bulgari, and Richard Mille for the honours—Piaget caused a furore at Watches & Wonders in Geneva when it unveiled its latest feat to coincide with the Maison’s 150th year anniversary.

Piaget
Piaget

Piaget claims that the new Altiplano is “shaped by a quest for elegance and driven by inventiveness”, and while this might be true, it’s clear that the Maison’s high-watchmaking divisions in La Côte-aux-Fées and Geneva are also looking to end the conversation around who owns the ultra-thin watchmaking category.

The new Altiplano pushes the boundaries of horological ingenuity 67 years after Piaget invented its first ultra-thin calibre—the revered 9P—and six years after it presented the world’s then-thinnest watch, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept. Now, with the release of this unrivalled timepiece at just 2mm thick—the same as its predecessor, yet now housing the beat of a flying tourbillon, prized by watchmaking connoisseurs—you can’t help but marvel at its ultra-thin mastery, whether the timepiece is to your liking or not.

Piaget
Piaget

In comparison, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon was 3.95mm thick when unveiled in 2020, which seems huge on paper compared to what Piaget has been able to produce. But to craft a watch as thin and groundbreaking as its predecessor, now with an added flying tourbillon complication, the whole watchmaking process had to be revalued and reinvented.

“We did far more than merely add a tourbillon,” says Benjamin Comar, Piaget CEO. “We reinvented everything.”

After three years of R&D, trial and error—and a redesign of 90 percent of the original Altiplano Ultimate Concept components—the 2024 version needs to be held and seen to be believed. The end product certainly isn’t a watch for the everyday watch wearer—although Piaget will tell you otherwise—but in many ways, the company didn’t conjure a timepiece like the Altiplano as a profit-seeking exercise. Instead, overcoming such an arduous and technical watchmaking feat proves that Piaget can master the flying tourbillon in such a whimsical fashion and, in the process, subvert the current state-of-the-art technical principles by making an impactful visual—and technical—statement.

The only question left to ask is, what’s next, Piaget?

Piaget
Piaget

Model: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
Diameter: 41.5 mm
Thickness: 2 mm (crystal included)
Material: M64BC cobalt alloy, blue PVD -treated
Dial: Monobloc dial; polished round and baton indices, Bâton-shaped hand for the minutes Monobloc disc with a hand for the hours
Water resistance: 20m

Movement: Calibre 970P-UC, one-minute peripheral tourbillon
Winding: Hand-wound
Functions: hours, minutes, and small seconds (time-only)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Availability: Limited production, not numbered
Price: Price on request

 

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