Robb Interview: Jesse Marlow

An award-winning Australian ‘street’ photographer, Marlow explores his new book, Melbourne’s lost grit and learning to be creative during COVID.

By Richard Clune 04/05/2021

Robb Report: ‘Second City’ is your impressive new book — talk us through the title and the narrative such sets out; does this play to the notion of the ‘unseen city’, that is, the ‘unremarkable’ city and those unnoticed occurrences of the everyday? 

Jesse Marlow: Yes and No. Initially the term ‘Second City’ came to mind because of the constant reference to Melbourne (in regards to Sydney) as Australia’s ‘Second City’ during the initial Covid-19 reporting. The title took on a whole new meaning when I was editing the photo’s and reflecting on the major changes Melbourne has undergone over the past 20-25 years. From the desolate streets to the now bustling metropolis, the title has come to encompass the fact that the photographs show a whole different side of a well-known city. As someone whose lived here my whole life, there’s always an unknown or long forgotten side to a city to discover or rediscover.

RR: The period captured here, the late ‘90s and into the new millennium — what are your memories from that time?

JM: It wasn’t until the early 2000’s that the CBD seemed to really awaken. With the onset of apartment living, the unique laneways began to be utilised with cafes and bars starting to pop up in innovative spots.  As a young photographer discovering the ins and outs of my hometown, I would wander the streets, often in awe of the characters and subcultures, I’d encounter. There was an edge and an element of grit to the city and its people. Older men in three-piece suits and hats; young punks and old drunks. You’d walk around the city and there was an abundance of characters you’d come across on a daily basis. The city and its urban planning hadn’t been as refined as it is today — thugs weren’t as structured and clean as they now seem. The simple things in the city brought me inspiration — sitting on the steps under the clocks at Flinders St Station watching on, camera in hand, as people started moving in and out of the station.

RR: As you say, Melbourne as a city has certainly grown-up a lot since then. Do you miss what was perhaps a sense of innocence that existed back then? 

JM: I miss the edginess and gritty feel to the city. As many of the characters and unique independent shops have long disappeared from the city streets, I feel like the city has lost some of the identity that gave it its character and edge.

RR: In curating and selecting images, how many photos did you pore over to form this collection and how do you find that process — what are the emotions attached to going back through older works and re-viewing things?

JM: The body of work had sat dormant for the last 15 years, and the idea was always to present it as a book, the only question being ‘when’? I’m one of those people that isn’t very good at slowing down, so during lockdown last year, having a forced hiatus from commercial work, I had to do something with my time, so going back through older work seemed like a good option. It turned out to be a really productive time to work on projects that I’d never finished or had put on the back burner. I’ve produced four books over the years, and they all come with their own unique challenges. Books have always been my preferred way of showing my work in a longer form. Unlike an exhibition, which can be up for a few weeks and only seen by a small audience, the potential reach of a book excites me.

Photo: Jesse Marlow, Chadstone, 2003.

RR: Why monochrome – what does it offer over the presentation of colour? 

JM: The photos began while I was at photography school and one of the main features of the TAFE course I signed up for was the allure of unlimited B&W film. This meant bulk loading film, storing it in my fridge at home and heading into the city on a daily basis.

In my first year at photography school, I actually failed the course due to a lack of attendance as I spent most of the time in the city shooting some of the work featured in the book. The irony is, whilst I failed the year, I also managed to win the award for ‘Most Film Used in a Year’. I had also been studying the work of some of the masters – Henri Cartier-Bresson, Josef Koudelka and Garry Winogrand, who’d all shot candid B&W work, so shooting in monochrome seemed like the logical pathway into documenting the world around me.

RR: You sometimes appear as a shadow or a reflection in your images. Where many photographers aim to avoid such, why are you seemingly happy to be captured, however minor?  

JM: That’s often been a subtle feature my work and something I’ve never worried about. One of my favourite photographers of all time, Lee Friedlander, produced a whole book of self-portraits of himself out on the street, often appearing as just a subtle shadow or reflection within a broader scene.

Photo: Courtesy of Jesse Marlow, St Kilda, 2002.

RR: What’s the urban landscape offer & how frustrating can it be at times in regards to finding subjects or situations to shoot candidly? 

JM: I love the uncertainty and endless possibilities of it. If I knew what I was going to be shooting every day, I’d have quickly bored of it years ago. There are days and weeks where I see nothing and accepting that is part of my creative process…

RR: You embrace the ‘not knowing’, the surprise …

JM: That’s right, the ‘not knowing’ part for me is the challenge — it’s a way of thinking and seeing and can be applied wherever I may be around the world. I have a few central stylistic themes that have always run through my work but the general idea, that I can leave the house one morning and come home with a photo that will become part of a bigger series, continues to drive and excite me.

RR: At what age did you first pick up a camera and what was the initial allure and was it immediate? 

JM: I first started taking photos as an eight-year-old boy. My uncle gave me a book called ‘Subway Art’ which documented the NYC subway graffiti scene. My parents have always been very supportive of my interest in the arts. They’ve owned a small women’s fashion shop in Melbourne called Blonde Venus for 40 years. My mum designs the clothes and dad runs the business and sells them. So, in the mid 1980’s when I was eight and had been given the graffiti book, something was triggered inside me.  I began taking photos [with my mum’s camera] of the first wave of graffiti walls that began appearing around Melbourne. I’d go out with my mum on weekends and school holidays searching for walls, and I’d jump out of the car and shoot photos. I’ve been looking to publish this series as a book and it will hopefully be my next book project. 35 years later, I’m still as inspired as ever.

RR: What do you feel distinguishes your work from others categorised as ’street photographers’? 

JM: That’s a tricky question. I feel my work has evolved over the last 20 years from initially being inspired by the classics, and shooting B&W, to finding more of my own voice. In my more recent work, I find myself looking for a combination of strong colour, a sense of design and a human or graphic element.

RR: That moniker, ’street photographer’, has that arguably been cannibalised and overused the past decade?

JM: It’s certainly become a big thing in the last 15 years. When I started off in 1997, the idea of just walking around with a camera and looking for random photos on the street didn’t have any particular name to it and there certainly weren’t many people practising it. Seeing another photographer out on the street was a rare thing. Nowadays, it’s quite the opposite. In 2000, the first online street photographers collective was formed and I was lucky enough to join them in 2001. In the last 10 years, the street photography genre has grown in so many ways. I’ve lost count of the number of online collectives and festivals are happening around the world now brands and camera companies have embraced the genre and term ‘Street Photography’, as have book publishers. It’s always been such an accessible form of photography — you don’t need a tripod, model, studio, fancy lights — so I’ve seen its growth and popularity really sky rocket in the time I’ve been a part of the scene.

Jesse Marlow’s latest body of work, Second City.

RR: 2020 and the various COVID-enforced lock-downs must have been arduous for a photographer who roams like you do? 

JM: Having my commercial work put on hold for that period certainly had its challenges. I tried to stay positive and focused on what I could still do — that meant daily drives to the shops after homeschooling my two children, just to get out there and shoot a bit. However, the time off gave me the opportunity to produce the book and also recommence my street posters, which I had dabbled with back in the mid-2000s.

RR: You sometimes instruct and take ‘classes’ as part of Leica’s Akademie – what are the main tips you impart to those wanting to take a decent picture?

JM: Yes, I’ve been a Leica ambassador for the last six years and regularly run workshops via the Akademie. There are a couple of shooting approaches I try to teach people if they are starting off on the street and it mainly focuses on building confidence. For the more advanced shooters that come along, I really try to help them refine their vision and build their own sense of visual consistency.

Second City is available now, $75; jessemarlow.com

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Show Stopping Fun

Robb Report Australia and New Zealand teamed up with Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance in late February to celebrate a weekend of fine motor cars on Cockatoo Island.

By Robb Report Team 04/03/2025

Robb Report Australia & New Zealand and Citizen Kanebridge, the new private members’ club brought to you by this masthead’s publishers, offers exclusive access to magical experiences and unrivalled networking.

This year’s Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance on Cockatoo Island did not disappoint. Our invited guests—including speakers Gerard Doyle, General Manager ASX Refinitiv Charity Foundation; Ant Middleton, the British adventure and TV personality turned hydration-drink disruptor and owner R3SUP; and Lex Pedersen, CEO of automotive investment firm Chrome Temple—enjoyed unlimited access to the three-day event and an elegant sufficiently of Champagne, wine and whisky, as well as an exquisite catered lunch inside the Citizen Kanebridge Private Members’ Lounge. They enhanced their experience by VIP transport to and from the mainland via superyacht.

Courtesy of Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance

The British-born event, which also has iterations at Pebble Beach in California and Hampton Court Palace in England, once again teamed up with the world’s most prestigious marques (among them Aston Martin, Bentley, Brabus, Genesis, Lamborghini, McLaren, Rolls-Royce and Porsche), to display their latest supercars alongside the pageant of owner-driven vintage vehicles.

Courtesy of Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance

On Sunday, Robb Report’s Editor-in-Chief Horacio Silva treated guests to a special preview of the winners of this our annual Car of the Year awards, showcased in our coming March 2025 issue. Our lips are sealed.

Courtesy of Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance

To learn how to become a member of our exclusive new community, visit Citizen Kanebridge.

Thank you to the following sponsors: Whisky and Wealth, Jacob & Co, Wine Selectors, Mulpha, Jackson Teece, Young Henry’s and Resup.

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Patron’s New Ultra-Premium Tequila Is a Reposado Blend That Punches Way Above Its Age

Patron’s latest luxury tequila is a blend of ages.

By Jonah Flicker 13/03/2025

There are certain categories in the tequila world that indicate how long the spirit has been matured, so what happens when you combine a few of them together into one release? Patron is the latest brand to get in on this multiple-maturation blending action with the new high-end El Alto release, a combination of tequilas aged for different lengths of time.

In the whisky world, an age statement represents the minimum age of the liquid that’s in the bottle—in other words, a 10-year-old scotch may have liquid much older than that in the blend, but 10 years represents the minimum age. When it comes to tequila, there are also rules in regards to how it has to be labelled based on maturation, and like whisky that depends on the youngest liquid in the blend. The core of El Alto is an extra anejo tequila (the exact proportion isn’t revealed), meaning it was aged for a minimum of three years. But master distiller David Rodriguez decided to blend some anejo (aged one to three years) and reposado (two months to one year) tequila into the mix as well, making this an expression that is defined as reposado instead of extra anejo even though it has some ultra-aged liquid in the blend.

According to the brand, 11 different types of barrels were used to mature the tequila in El Alto, with the majority being hybrid barrels consisting of American oak bodies and French oak heads—each type of wood is thought to impart different flavours into the spirit. “The tequilas that harmoniously come together in Patron El Alto are a result of selecting the finest 100 percent Weber blue agave in the highest parts of Jalisco, Mexico, a territory known for producing the sweetest agaves,” said Rodriguez in a statement. “We took four years to focus on only the best of the best and perfect the bold, sweet flavors of this expression the right way: naturally.”

This type of multi-aged tequila seems to be part of a growing trend, with a few other brands releasing similar high-end expressions including Cincoro and Volcan de Mi Tierra. Perhaps it’s a way of stretching supplies or a tactic to get consumers to dip their toes (or tongues, preferably) into another luxe tequila, a category that is growing every year.

This month Australians are getting an exclusive taste of the El Alto as this formerly USA-exclusive release is launching here with The Bacardi Group. You can find El Alto in selected hospitality venues and at Barrel & Batch for $298 as these chic spots that represent the “pinnacle of celebrating momentous occasions,” according to the brand.

 

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Neutral, Not Boring: How to Wear This Season’s Most Stylish New Menswear

The soft tones of California’s Joshua Tree provide a perfect backdrop for the season’s refined yet relaxed vibe.

By Naomi Rougeau And Alex Badia 04/03/2025

Amid spring 2025’s myriad trends, there was one connecting element: colour. From Alessandro Sartori’s rusty hues at Zegna to Loro Piana’s subdued neutrals, the palette was more sun-bleached than saturated, and the muted tones of California’s Joshua Tree provide a perfect backdrop for the season’s refined yet relaxed vibe.

Stylists Naomi Rougeau and Alex Badia, teamed up with photographer Brad Torchia to create these casual looks that turn a bold statement into a confident whisper.

Brad Torchia

Berluti leather jacket, $14,067; L.B.M. 1911 merino crewneck, $450; Dolce & Gabbana linen trousers, $1,921; Zenith 37 mm Chronomaster Revival in steel, $13,987.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Umit Benan silk jacket, silk shirt, and linen trousers, all prices upon request; Dolce & Gabbana suede loafers, $1600; Girard-Perregaux 38 mm Laureato Sage Green in steel, $23,954.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Brunello Cucinelli linen shirt, $1500; Loro Piana linen trousers, $908; Zenith 37 mm Chronomaster Revival in steel, $13,987.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Anderson & Sheppard cotton jacket, $4,421; Gabriela Hearst cashmere turtleneck, $1,430; Louis Vuitton cotton jeans, $2n138; Tod’s suede sneakers, $1438.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Canali wool, silk, and linen tweed blazer, $4,011; Thom Sweeney silk shirt, $876; Paul Smith mohair trousers, $908; Church’s patent-leather loafers, $1,768; Parmigiani Fleurier 40 mm Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena in steel and platinum, $40,675.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Paul Smith cotton trench, $3528; Ferragamo cashmere sweater, $1,752, and cotton trousers, $4389; Dolce & Gabbana suede loafers, $1599.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Hermès denim shirt, $1,647, and belted cotton chinos, $1,366.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Loro Piana cotton cardigan, $4,381, and linen shirt, $1,768; Todd Snyder linen trousers, $639; Zegna Triple Stitch leather sneakers, $1,768; Morgenthal Frederics sunglasses, $2,564; Berluti silk scarf, $1,221; Parmigiani Fleurier 40 mm Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena in steel and platinum, $40,675.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Thom Sweeney cashmere and merino sweater, $956; Brunello Cucinelli linen shorts, $1045; Manolo Blahnik raffia and leather loafers, $1,438.; Leisure Society sunglasses, $1905; Zenith 37 mm Chronomaster Revival in steel, $13,987.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Kiton jean jacket, $6061; Officine Générale cashmere sweater, $932; Brioni wool trousers, $1,768; Ralph Lauren Purple Label leather belt, $562; Morgenthal Frederics sunglasses, $52081; Zenith 37 mm Chronomaster Revival in steel, $13,987

 

 

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This New York Jewellery Gallery Is Offering up a Treasure Trove of Vintage Watches

The Mahnaz Collection’s first formal collection of timepieces will include rare finds with fascinating histories

By Paige Reddinger 04/03/2025

There was a period when Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos found it hard to hold on to a watch. The prominent collector and dealer often would post pictures on social media of the uncommon, sculptural timepieces she purchased for herself. But every time, clients of her eponymous jewellery gallery—New York City’s Mahnaz Collection—would hound her into selling them.

“They found those photographs, and they are just diligent in bothering me,” she says with a laugh, adding that some would simply persist until she changed her mind about letting them go.

In response to that demand, this month her Madison Avenue space will begin offering its first formal collection of unique watches, curated with the same rigor and studious eye Ispahani Bartos has applied to sourcing rare jewellery. (Her specialty is the hard-to-find fare made by artists, designers, goldsmiths, and architects.) One coveted example is a gold-and-diamond pendant watch handmade by the late Italian-born avant-garde designer Andrew Grima, whose work was beloved by the British royal family. This example from his historic collaboration with Omega was made in the 1970s. Lesser known but no less noteworthy is the Spanish designer Augustin Julia-Plana, who created a gold-and-jadeite watch for his brand Schlegel & Plana, also in the ’70s. “He was a great jeweller and watch designer,” says Ispahani Bartos of Julia-Plana, who penned striking and visually creative work for everyone from Chopard to Tiffany. “He specialised in really unusual stones,” she adds, noting that he died far too young at age 41.

An 18-carat gold and jadeite watch designed by Augustin Julia-Plana, circa 1970.
Photographed by Janelle Jones/Styled by Stephanie Yeh

Ispahani Bartos knows something about legacy. Born in Bangladesh—when it was still called East Pakistan—she grew up in a culture steeped in traditions of wearing and appreciating jewellery. She recalls her grandmother giving her earrings made from yellow gold, turquoise, diamonds, and Burmese rubies at age 7. (Too young to wear them, she put them on her dolls’ ears for safekeeping. Both were lost when her family fled the violence of the country’s 1971 revolution; the ship carrying their belongings, she says, was sunk by an enemy carrier.)

When she was a teenager, her mother gifted her one of Omega’s Grima-designed watches, which she still owns. That early introduction to rare design influenced her own collecting journey, which turned into her full-time job when she opened her gallery in 2013.

“I didn’t focus on watches then, but increasingly, where I have an important jewellery collection where the jeweller also made watches, I started to feel like, ‘How can I not have that person’s watches?’ ” she says.
From left: Omega and Andrew Grima Winter Sunset pendant watch in 18-karat yellow gold, smokey quartz, and citrine crystal with Swiss manual-wind movement, circa 1968; Piaget bracelet watch in 18-karat yellow gold and tiger’s eye with Swiss manual-wind movement, circa 1970.
Photographed by Janelle Jones/Styled by Stephanie Yeh

That comprehensive approach befits Ispahani Bartos’s previous career and intellectual curiosity. After earning a Ph.D. in international relations, she served as a foreign- and security-policy expert for an array of global organisations, including the Ford Foundation and the Council on Foreign Relations.

She still employs the deep preparation she once used in the aid of diplomacy, researching every piece that comes into her hands, creating extensive and beautiful catalogs for the collections, and crafting museum-style exhibitions to present them to collectors. And this work, she says, takes ages. She’ll soon debut an Italian collection whose catalog she has been researching and preparing for nearly a decade, and her vault currently houses some Ettore Sottsass–designed watches she has been holding back for the right moment. “We tend to build collections all the time, collections we don’t show for years,” she says. Which means you never know what pieces might be hiding in the Mahnaz Collection—or the yet-to-be-told stories that may accompany them.
At top from far left: Omega De Ville Emerald bracelet watch designed by Andrew Grima in sterling silver with a tropical dial; Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse in 18-karat gold; Jaeger-LeCoultre Mystery watch in 18-carat gold and diamonds; Cazzaniga watch in 18-carat gold, diamonds, and sapphires with movement by Piaget; Gilbert Albert watch in platinum, 18-carat gold, and diamonds with movement by Omega. The pieces, made between the 1950s and ’70s, all have Swiss-made manual-wind movements. 

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Penfolds Saves Best For Last with Show-Stopping Release with Creative Partner NIGO

Penfolds has just dropped their limited-edition 65F by NIGO Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz, a mouthwatering wine you need to nab now.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 28/02/2025

Though Penfolds holds many wonderful wines in its star-studded suite, their latest collaboration with NIGO is earmarked as a sure-fire collector’s item.

Retailing for $395 a bottle, the Penfolds 65F by NIGO is expected to sit snugly alongside the likes of Grange and Bin 389 as a standout single-vintage wine connoisseurs will vie for in years to come.

This prize wine isn’t just delicious and highly collectible, it looks the part. It features branding by artistic director and creative visionary NIGO, the founder of cult streetwear brands A Bathing Ape and Human Made, a pal of Pharrell Williams and current creative director of French fashion house Kenzo. For the box and packaging NIGO was inspired by the towering 65-foot chimney that prevails over Penfolds South Australian home, Magill Estate.

Penfolds archival material served as NIGO’s inspiration for the inclusions within the gift box and on the wine label. A chalkboard wine tag with coinciding chalk pencil pays homage to the chalk boards used in the original working winery at Penfolds Magill Estate and allows the opportunity for personalisation of the wine if used as a gift. The bottle label features a design which takes inspiration from the pressed bottle labels from the 1930-50s, and the tissue paper wrapping the bottle has been adapted from the Penfolds logo style used in the early 20th century. NIGO’s signature playful design style is emphasised with a chimney smoke wine stopper.

Inside it’s a classic embodiment of the way South Australian winemakers blend cabernet sauvignon with shiraz to stunning effect.

As a result this wine has a mouth-watering palate with plenty of fine grain tannins and silky mouth feel. A nose enriched with spicy nutmeg, cardamom and cassis is layered over blueberry compote and lush fig on a palate. There’s lots of blueberry soufflé, gamey tones and just a hint of fennel seed, with more complexity to come as the years fly by.

All the base wines were sourced from grapes grown in South Australia’s top wine regions of Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley. And while the 65F by NIGO Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz is being released now, it will continue to reward cellaring for years to come.

Penfolds first announced NIGO as its Creative Partner in June 2023, with the global release of One by Penfolds. This was closely followed by the launch of Grange by NIGO (the first takeover of Penfolds flagship red wine) in February 2024, followed by Holiday Designed by NIGO in October 2024.A classic for the ages.

Penfolds 65F by NIGO Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2021 is available globally from Thursday 27 February 2025 (RRP AUD$395.00 for 750ml). Available via Penfolds.com, at select Dan Murphy’s stores nationally and select independent retailers.

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