Everything you need to know about American whiskey
A guide to bourbon, rye and Tennessee whiskey.
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Whiskey is big business. Of course, it has always been big business, but in recent years the demand for the dram has skyrocketed.
There are currently around 2000 whiskey distillers in the US and Australia combined – with the market for American whiskies now raking in around US$1.34 billion per annum.
According to Robert Maron, Director of International Affairs at the Distilled Spirits Council, it’s a relatively new phenomenon.
Maron said that imports of American Whiskey varieties have increased by a healthy 34 per cent year-to-date from 2017. And, curiously, while the numbers have increased, the age of the drinkers has decreased.
The Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. hosted a night for VIPs and Industry Leaders at The Old Rum Store, Chippendale. Presenters – L-R, Rob Maron, Thomas Mooney, James Buntin, Bruce McMullan, Grant Shearon. Photo: Chris Pavlich
“In 2006, Australians aged over 65 were the most likely to drink whiskey … but now the proportion of drinkers between 18-34 has been steadily growing year on year,” Maron said.
With more than 150 corporate and craft-distillery members of the Distilled Spirits Council, there’s a lot the Australian and New Zealand markets have yet to learn about.
Even though the numbers alone are enough to show market tastes are varying, the question remains – are consumers making educated choices, or just chasings trends?
Here’s the Robb Report guide to understanding American whiskies.
Rye Whiskey
Legally, American Rye whiskey has to be made with a minimum of 51 per cent rye. The remainder is typically a blend of corn or malted barley, the whole aged exclusively in American oak casks at no more than 62.5 per cent ABV (alcohol by volume).
Rye whiskey arose from the Scottish-Irish immigrant influence around Pennsylvania and Maryland. Barley is a primary ingredient for traditional Scotch whisky varieties, however barley didn’t adapt well to the new climate of North America.
Rye did, and its whiskey became so ingrained in the American culture that George Washington actually ran his own distilling operation in the late 18th and early 19th century. Washington’s whiskey house was one of the largest distilleries in America at the time.
This variety of American whiskey is typically spicy, fruity and slightly smoky with a dry mouthfeel, making it the perfect base ingredient for a classic cocktail such as the Sazerac or Old-Fashioned. Otherwise, opt for a simple dash of water with the dram.
Robb Report recommends Old Overholt Straight Rye Whiskey. As Abraham Overholt said: “Work hard, stand fast, and don’t waver”.
Tennessee Whiskey
There’s George Dickel from Tullahoma, Collier and McKeel from Nashville and TennSouth Distillery from Lynville – but it goes without saying that Jack Daniels from Lynchburg is one of the best-known and top-selling of all American whiskies.
With a strong temperance movement in the state, Tennessee introduced prohibition in 1909 as an extension of the Four Mile Law that was introduced in 1877, coincidentally three years after the Women’s Christian Temperance Union of Tennessee was founded.
Tennessee was a decade ahead of the Federal ban in 1920, and the state remained dry until 1939. Tennessee whiskey embodies Southern Hospitality, a culture that managed to thrive despite the prohibition era – a time that almost shattered the legal spirits trade and drove out many of the distilleries that had called Tennessee home.
Most Tennessee whiskeys are produced using the Lincoln County Process, which is the filtering of whiskey through a layer of maple charcoal before being aged in new charred white oak barrels, in Tennessee. This process is officially recognised in Tennessee state law as a Tennessee whiskey or Tennessee Sour Mash.
Photo: Chris Pavlich
Because of the unique Lincoln County distillation and maturation process, expect characteristics of toffee and fruit cake, similar to Bourbon whiskey. However, the difference between Tennessee whiskey and Bourbon whiskey – despite both including a mandated minimum 51 per cent corn – is a distinct charcoal oak flavour that is absorbed when filtered.
Robb Report recommends having Jack Daniels Sinatra Select, Frank’s way: three ice cubes, two fingers of whiskey and one splash of water.
Bourbon Whiskey
While it’s difficult to determine who introduced the first bottle of this southern gold, one whiskey distiller is acknowledged as “The Father of Bourbon”. Elijah Craig was a Baptist preacher in Virginia, who later turned entrepreneur in the state of Kentucky, after his discovery that the cheapest way to clean a whiskey barrel was by charring the inside of it.
Following on from his Heaven Hill distillery’s innovation, there came a new wave of distillation techniques that would alter the path of whiskies.
Enjoy whiskey like Frank. Photo: Getty
What makes a Bourbon, uniquely Bourbon?
Regulatory guidelines indicate that the grain mixture should comprise a minimum of 51 per cent corn and aged in new charred white-oak barrels for at least 24 months (if aged under four years the age must be stated). The Bourbon must be distilled at no more than 80 per cent alcohol by volume, aged at no more than 62.5 per cent ABV and bottled at no higher than 40 per cent ABV – a strict set of rules for a jolly dram.
Although the process sounds regimented, many industry leaders have developed new techniques – so that, despite the strict processing requirements, Bourbon whiskey has one of the most versatile flavour profile ranges. It’s entirely dependent on the distiller’s “mashbill”, effectively the recipe book.
If using a higher quantity of rye, the flavour profiles will be drier, spicier and more peppery, acting in contrast to the corn’s sweetness. Alternatively, if a distillery has increased wheat in the grain blend, expect more sophistication, smoothness and in some cases, a nutty and subtly spicy character.
Robb Report recommends George Remus Straight Bourbon Whiskey, neat.
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Forget a Bow Tie. Here Are 3 Black-Tie Accessories to Rock Instead
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Black tie, that essential marker of an increasingly rarefied ceremonial style, is inspiring. Nothing coaxes men into upping the sartorial ante quite like reading those words on an invitation. I say amen to raising the bar, but I can’t bear wearing a traditional bow tie—and haven’t done so for over a decade.
Around the turn of the millennium, I was enthusiastically dress-code obedient, but two unstoppable forces put me off: Fashion moved on, and I got old. Where abiding by hallowed traditions once felt exalted, it suddenly began to seem restrictive and stuffy. And while it was extraordinary to be a bow-tied 30-something, in my 40s, the convention made me feel like a pompous, conservative square. Now, menswear has changed so much that bow ties register as pedestrian garb better suited to waiters than to revellers.
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Form and Function
I got excited seeing Lemaire’s slim metallic modernised bolo ties in the house’s fall 2024 show. A favourite of men as varied as Johnny Cash, Bruce Springsteen, and Snoop Dogg, the bolo is perhaps best remembered as the chosen neckwear of John Travolta’s surly hit man, Vincent, in Pulp Fiction. Originally, Native American tribes including the Zuni, Hopi, and Navajo used these accessories used to fasten bandannas with plaited-leather cords. High-end versions double as a bit of jewellery, with silver slides set with turquoise and often engraved with animal motifs, including buffalo skulls and eagles. Contemporary takes abound, but vintage sleuthing can turn up some particularly beguiling options.
Gambling Man
Varying in size, flounce, and attitude, ribbon ties—also called gambler or Kentucky neckties—have long been a legitimate black-tie alternative. Actor Cillian Murphy has worn Saint Laurent’s take to various award shows, looking stand-alone chic and authentically cool. They have a distinct Western energy—Kirk Douglas donned one as Doc Holliday in Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, as did Robert Vaughan in The Magnificent Seven. But they’re as much rock star as they are gunslinger: The late Johnny Thunders of the New York Dolls and Bauhaus front man Peter Murphy (style role models of mine) also wore them with panache. Take a note from the runway and wear them with a pair of boots—cowboy, Chelsea, or with a Cuban heel—to really step away from the standard.
Fit to Be Tied
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If you want to give yourself some breathing room, consider scarves and neckerchiefs. This fall, Tom Ford proposed a louche take on evening style, using black, slim-plaited, or delicately sequined scarves whose long tassels provocatively dangle at the hips. For maximum effect, the brand styled them with open satin shirts, recalling rockers Mick Jagger and Rod Stewart. London’s La Bowtique also does beautiful outsize bows. On a smaller scale, the Twilly—a short silk scarf pioneered by Hermès—works in much the same manner. The French maison makes gorgeous options with angled ends for extra verve, whether hanging loose or more discreetly knotted.
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Among this storied company, Sydney’s interpretation is playing catch-up. But Nicholls insists the local variant—launched in 2019, having occupied three other citywide locations—has no intention of locking horns with competitors. Not numerically, at least.
“In 2024, we had 500 people over the three days; this year we’ll aim for 750. But we’re never going to become a 20,000-people show,” he says. “We want it to be bespoke and beautiful, so people don’t have to queue for a glass of Champagne. You can talk to the car owners, and everyone feels like a VIP.” The overarching aim is to become a “destination event” on the socialite calendar, on par with the Melbourne Cup or the Australian Grand Prix.
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Jannik Sinner aced the style game at last year’s Wimbledon Championships.
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Hole In One
The Citizen Kanebridge VHG Golf Open Returns to The Southern Highlands This February.
The third annual Citizen Kanebridge VHG Golf Open Day is happening again this year at Citizen Kanebridge Lodge in the Southern Highlands on Friday, February 21. Players will tee off from 8 am for a day of unrivalled bucolic hospitality in the spirit of friendly competition.
The Open unites forces with the operators of Mount Broughton in Sutton Forrest to stage the popular day, in which teams of four enter to enjoy 18 holes of unadulterated fun.
Players will meet at the clubhouse, where—golf aside—they will be served breakfast, lunch and liquid refreshments throughout the day before heading back to Citizen Kanebridge Lodge for a special dinner, fun awards ceremony and more drinks.
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The event is part of the new offering from Citizen Kanebridge, a private membership club based in Sydney. Citizen Kanebridge allows members to have access to the Robb Report Club(RR1) based in the United States of America, Citizen Kanebridge Lodge in the Southern Highlands of NSW, and The Royal Automobile Club of Australia (RACA) in Circular Quay, Sydney.
Members interested in Golf Open Day, may enquire by reaching out to leanne@citizenkanebridge.com.au. For more information on Golf Open day, you can download the information brochure here.
Love golf? jump to our golf connoisseurship package from the Spring 2024 issue of Robb Report ANZ.
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