Scene Cuisine: Mr. Chow, Riyadh

The impresario behind his namesake Mr. Chow restaurant opens his seventh location—his first in the Middle East—in the Saudi capital

By Horacio Silva 21/12/2023

Michael Chow is not one for false modesty. “Before me the only international restaurant was McDonald’s,” he says, with the assurance of someone who knows what he brings to the table and isn’t afraid to share it. “I started the concept of having a high-end restaurant in multiple locations around the world over 50 years ago. I was light years ahead of everybody.”

He may be blunt, but he is not wrong. Since opening the first Mr. Chow restaurant in London, in 1968, Chow has redefined the international fine-dining experience. In short order, the chic Knightsbridge eatery, known for its elevated Chinese food, spectacular service and super-charged prices, became the last word in scene cuisine: the Champagne-fuelled place for the bon ton to go for a wonton.

Michael Chow photographed in front of an Ed Ruscha ‘portrait’ of him, rendered in egg tempura and soya sauce, L.A. in 1974

Presciently anticipating the convergence of the culture and lifestyle industries, Chow hitched his wagon to the fashion and art worlds from the outset. (His first wife, Grace Coddington, a top model in the 1960s before becoming the longtime American Vogue Creative Director, probably made entrées into the fashion milieu a little easier.) A proto-meta-celebrity for the pre-internet age, Chow is famous for being famous among the famous.

“Portrait of Michael Chow” (1985) by his friend Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Now, after successfully opening various outposts in Los Angeles, New York, Miami and Las Vegas, the impish restaurateur has hung out the shingle in the Middle East, unveiling a Mr. Chow in Riyadh in October.

“All the big boys are there,” Chow told Robb Report ANZ of his decision to expand into the region. “So I figured it was time to make the move.”

Besides, he suggests, sitting in a corner of his sprawling Los Angeles studio, Dubai has become a veritable supermarket of options. “It’s like Mount Olympus,” Chow points out, “all the gods are there. Cipriani, Nobu, Zuma. And, unlike Vegas, every brand there is authentic and the standards are very high.”

In addition to wanting to avoid the crowded competition, Chow was also drawn to the relaxing of Saudi policy towards the West. “Before they’d say stay away, don’t come near us,” he says. “But the whole Middle East, particularly Saudi Arabia, has lightened up and is going through a major cultural change. They want to be part of the international conversation. The roads are still being paved, so to speak, but it’s a very exciting time.”

Despite the welcome arms, the new location comes with considerable concessions to local palates and customs. “For starters,” Chow explains, “there is no pork and no alcohol. That’s the biggest change. It’s not like Dubai where you can get alcohol in restaurants and hotels. They’re two different animals in that sense.”

Also absent in the Riyadh chapter is the art on the walls that is part of the DNA at Mr. Chow. “We have a couple of ceiling art projections, including one that resembles a flower opening up over the room,” he offers. “Eventually the plan is to introduce art on the walls, maybe by local artists, but I haven’t got around to it.”

In the tortuous decade prior to opening the London restaurant, Chow, who was born in Shanghai in 1939 and moved to London at 13 to attend boarding school, left architecture school to train as a painter. He wound up at the swinging Robert Fraser Gallery near Grosvenor Square, a beau-monde salon of sorts where the debonair blade, who by then was sporting shoulder-length hair and Yves Saint Laurent suits, met the leading artists of the day, like Peter Blake, Allen Jones, Jim Dine, Patrick Caulfield, Paul Huxley and Clive Barker—many of whom swapped art for a generous tab at Mr. Chow.

As a result, the paintings on the walls (and the artists who dined there) became as much of a draw as the restaurant’s storied Beijing duck. “The London restaurant is practically a Peter Blake museum,” he concedes. A soi-disant name-dropper, Chow is wont to remind people that every major artist has signed his guest book, which is also full of drawings by a slew of luminaries including Andy Warhol, Francesco Clemente, Francis Bacon, and Jasper Johns. “Everyone except Picasso,” he says. Without missing a beat, he adds, “But I had lunch with Van Gough. Just kidding.”

Elevated dining: the high- rise view at Mr. Chow Riyadh

The rest of the signature Mr. Chow experience, from the locked-eyes acknowledgement that greets all diners to the theatrical pyrotechnics of the twice-nightly noodle-making “performances”, remains on display in Riyadh.

“I’m a painter at heart but I also follow my father’s footsteps and he was the king of the theatre,” Chow explains. “Both mediums draw on deep suffering and can transcend the audience to a spiritual level. I turned the restaurant into theatre. Never bore the audience and reach for transcendence and a higher level of communication every night.”

Michael Chow painting in his studio in Los Angeles.

Those not familiar with the Tao According to Chow can now discover his Byzantine history in Aka Mr. Chow, a no-holds-barred HBO documentary (streaming on Binge in Australia) that sheds light, with sometimes brutal candour, on his longtime gambling addiction and his voracious appetite for collecting everything from prestige cars to door hinges, Lloyd Wright–designed houses to ice buckets. “What can I say? I take collecting very seriously, and I am very obsessive,” he offers flatly. “Doesn’t mean I’m a bad person.”

As the documentary illustrates, Chow has also been known to collect beautiful women and he is currently on his fourth wife, Vanessa Rano, with whom the 84-year-old has two young sons. (The rest of the Chow brood comprises China, 49, Maximillian, 46, and Asia, 29.) The film is particularly unsparing in its retelling of the doomed marriage between Michael and second wife, Tina Chow, mother of China and Maximillian, internationally renowned beauty, businesswoman, collector, jeweler, and member of the International Best-Dressed Hall of Fame. Michael and Tina were the Brangelina of their day, but the glamour couple divorced in 1989 and Tina died of AIDS three years later.

Equally uncompromising are the sections of the film that ruminate on Chow’s Chinese ancestry and the vicissitudes of fortune that resulted from being the son of arguably the most famous man in China at the time. Chow’s father, Zhou Xinfang, whom he credits with his creative drive, was a highborn Chinese national treasure and a famed star of Shanghai’s Peking Opera Theatre who went by the stage name Qilin Tong (Unicorn Boy). His mother, Lillian, was the daughter of a Scottish tea merchant who scandalised Chinese society when she ran off with the older, married performer. When government forces began to clamp down on Unicorn Boy’s increasingly nationalistic performances, Chow’s parents sent him off to England. He never saw his father again; his mother visited him once.

“I wish I could say I went kicking and screaming,” Chow says of being banished to Wenlock Edge, a school he has described as Harry Potter without the magic. “But I was too dumb to do that. Basically, my mother wanted me to get out of there, period.” (One of his sisters, Tsai Chin, a former Bond Girl who appears in You Only Live Twice, was also hurried off, to Europe.)

Of his parents, Chow says: “Terrible, terrible things happened to them. They were among the first to be purged in the Cultural Revolution, but I didn’t find out about their deaths till much later.” His life, as he recounts in the film, has been an attempt to reconcile his love for them and their fate with his extant love of China, which he visits occasionally. “It sounds corny, but everything I do is to make China great to the West. But, of course, I have mixed feelings about my homeland because there are some things I can never forget.”

Even in this fifth chapter of his life, as he refers to it, Chow appears as spry as ever. “I’m doing very well,” he says. “I’m getting on, but at the same time, I’m active and very ambitious on two fronts—on my painting and, you know, the rest of it.”

The documentary, which premiered at MoMA in New York (“The cathedral of art,” he gushes) has led to more interest in his painting and he has several works showing during Art Basel Miami Beach this month. There are also new restaurants on the horizon. Having resisted all entreaties to open shop in Dubai, he is finally doing so at the end of next year. And then there are famous people to watch and to namedrop. “Can you blame me?” he asks. “I’ve met everyone. Marlene Dietrich. Marx Brothers. Ginger Rogers. Drake.” As Chow himself says, surmising his future, “The best is yet to come.”

Scene Cuisine is a new column, showcasing the fashionable spots where the elite meet to eat. 

Mr. Chow

Bldg 2.09, Metro Blvd,

Riyadh, Al Aqiq 13519;

T: +966.9200.12658

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Painted Black

Dion Lee is teaming up with Cho Cho San for an Australian Fashion Week event.

By Horacio Silva 10/05/2024

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Nowhere more than in the fashion world. Despite the vagaries of taste, black remains the go-to colour of choice. Fitting, then, that for next week’s Australian Fashion Week, the perennially black-clad media darling Dion Lee has partnered with Pott’s Point Izakaya joint Cho Cho San on a black-themed late-night ramen bar.

Lee, based in New York and not showing in Sydney next week, has worked with the restaurant to create a menu inspired by his inky, haute-industrial aesthetic and favourite flavours.

As part of the signature offering ($50pp) guests are offered “Dion’s Martini” on arrival (his take on the classic vodka drink spiked with a black olive, natch), a Tokyo-style shoyu ramen with shitake mushrooms, smoked daikon and crunchy tempura shiso leaf, and a winning black sesame and cocoa soft-serve ice-cream replete with black cone. (Trust us, it tastes infinitely better than it sounds.)

Lee rarely strays outside his fashion lane, but a little blackbirdie tells us to expect an announcement soon about a major new collaboration. Let’s hope it involves black ice cream.

Cho Cho San x Dion Lee: Late Night Ramen Bar

Available from May 13-16, 5pm to late.

Signature set: $50pp includes Dion’s Martini, Tokyo Shoyu Ramen and Black Sesame Soft Serve.

To book click here

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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