Ian Callum On The Road To Freedom

In the annals of contemporary motoring design, there’s only one Ian Callum. And right now, he’s doing his own thing.

By Stephen Corby 12/10/2020

In an ideal world, you’d only hire the very best people. Damien Hirst would don overalls to paint the house, Tiger Woods would carry the golf clubs, Warren Buffet manage all personal funds and Elon Musk, well, he’d be perfect in pushing some positive personal PR.

Still, if you wanted someone to ameliorate the look of your favoured car, you’d skip straight past Rocket Man Musk and choose the world’s greatest living car designer. And the great news is, for the first time ever, you can now do just that.

After two decades of creating such ferocious beauties as the F-Type (which carries the most beautiful rear end ever attached to a car), the revolutionary I-Pace electric vehicle and the staggering C-X75 concept car powered by gas turbines, Ian Callum has decided to go it alone.

For someone as synonymous with Jaguar as Callum has long been (imagine Michael Jordan exiting Nike, for example) the move to establish an eponymous design house shocked many—even more so because when he announced he was leaving the British(ish) marque at the age 64, most believed he might just be retiring.

Those who know Callum, however, understand that it’s unlikely he will ever stop working, because for him, designing is not a chore, it’s a passion, a firm joy. And if he’s not going to stop doing it, he may as well get paid top dollar for it, as is the case with his new company’s first creation—a wondrous reimagining of the Aston Martin Vanquish (which Callum originally designed), which can be yours for just a touch under $1 million.

“I’m not doing it for the glory or the money. I’m doing it for the love of being creative,” says Callum, speaking with as much passion and pace as he drives.

“I love designing and I guess I could go and paint landscapes, but I’m very much a three-dimensional person, and there’s just nothing better than creating something and then seeing it all the way through to reality.”

While the word ‘retirement’ seems to burn Callum’s mouth, he admits to an attempt to slow down, and to take advantage of the fact that this time it’s his name above the door—so he’s in control of the new workload. In theory.

“I want to do it at a pace that’s not getting me up at six in the morning, and it has been great not having to deal with the politics of corporate life, but I am working with a younger team and they want success, so I just have to use my energy efficiently,” he laughs.

Speaking of energy and efficiency, Callum has long been on the record suggesting not only that electric vehicles are the way of the future, but that they provide a once-in-a-century chance for designers to create cars that are actually something new and different. It is an opportunity that was given to him when he was tasked to create the world’s first mainstream electric SUV, the Jaguar I-Pace, a car he now lists as one of the three cars he’s most proud of.

“I had the time, with that car, to create something with a virgin platform with very few restrictions about what should happen above the wheels. And the great thing about EVs is that most of the mechanical elements are within the axles, which is very different to internal-combustion-engined cars, and that means you’re not mechanically bound to having a big space for an engine in the nose, and thus the same old designs.

“I was determined that with the I-Pace we’d have something more futuristic in terms of profile, a cab-forward look, and we’d put the seats forward as well, to use the space. And if you look at the cabin size of a similar, traditional car, like the Porsche Macan, we’ve got a lot more space.

“I see I-Paces on the road now and they still stand out. I drove one for a while and people really do stop and stare, so I’m very pleased with it. The other brands, sadly, haven’t gone so forthright—although I think VW probably will. Others have been quite conventional.”

As for the global take-up of EVs, Callum believes much of the world will reach “a tipping point in the next five years”, and that the only thing holding them back, at least in some countries, is a lack of infrastructure. Despite that, he says that things are improving in the UK so rapidly, he’s about to get himself another I-Pace as his daily driver.

“Most places now you can get a good charge within 40 minutes, which is absolutely fine—enough time for a couple of cream buns. Yes, I could put on a lot of weight with an electric car.”

The first project under the Callum design umbrella—the astonishing Vanquish 25—is pretty much the antithesis of an EV future, but then it’s based on a car built in the more innocent, more petrol-thirsty days of 2001.

Callum designed the original V12 Vanquish for Aston Martin and is now giving it the update he always wanted to, which involves not just some gorgeous and modernising styling changes, but stripping each of the 25 original cars down to bare metal and rebuilding them with new materials and technologies, all under his watchful eye at the new Callum workshop in Warwick.

“Basically, I can’t leave anything alone, every car I own has been modified in some way. I’d always wanted to update that Vanquish and never had the chance, so it started out as a personal project, just for me, but I thought it was going to cost me a few bob, so why not turn it into a business case?” Callum grins.

He found further appeal in the project given that it’s meant working without judgement and the input of others, “and it gave me a chance to fix the things I was never happy with in the first place, and to use the greater understanding of design that I’ve accumulated over 25 years.”

Ultimately, Callum admits to pride in the project and what he labels as its newfound look. “It looks like a 21st-century vehicle now,” he says.

So just how much has Callum, who was pretty bloody good to start with, learned about design over the years? He admits that with hindsight, he’s been through several differing phases.

“First, you’re just trying to emulate, you’re trying to be yourself but really you just want to impress your peers and hopefully be as good as them,” he explains.

“Eventually you get to the point when you think, ‘I’m doing this from my point of view, I’m not looking at other people, I’m not too bothered what other people think anymore’. It’s not that you’ve become arrogant, it’s just that your own judgement has become the biggest part of the process.

“You still listen to other people, but you become ruthless with your own judgement, and that’s what I’m trying to instil in my new team—to be ruthless, to look at things objectively rather than subjectively, be determined to do your best rather than to please others. I’ve learned a lot about aesthetics as well, of course, but the most crucial thing is self-judgement, because eventually you get to an age where you really want to impress yourself.”

As for the future, Callum is excited to have the chance to branch out beyond the garage and into the wider world of design.

“I’m actually looking at a couple of watches, but I can’t say who for just yet, and I’m doing some furniture as well, and we’ve been offered to do an aircraft interior, which is new for me,” he says. “Watches are a point of interest for a lot of people, of course; it’s a boy thing. As long as it’s got a sense of function, we’re into it.”

He’s also interested in boats, noting that the industry’s luxury arm needs “a bit of help visually”, and he’s confident he’d come up with something “a bit more elegant than what I see out there”.

Fear not, car aficionados; none of this expansion will mean drawing Callum away from his beloved cars—although pending automotive work will be bespoke, as opposed to ground-up builds.

“I’m going to be very careful about this—if a car company came to me and asked me to design a whole car, I’d say no, I’m not interested. I don’t want to go through that again. I’ve done over 20 now, I feel satisfied that I’ve made a point, and it’s a ruthless process,” Callum explains. “It’s also a long process. It takes four years out of your life, and at 65, four years is a long time.

“So, I’ll be working very much for customers on a limited-volume, bespoke basis, so I can have some control over the building of the vehicle, because I like the idea that every single car we do will be a work of art in itself.”

If Callum ever does retire, and it seems unlikely, he’ll no doubt choose to spend a lot more time in his second home, Australia.

“I love the place, I’ve been there more than 30 times. I lived in Melbourne and my son was born there, and I do hunger for that kind of peace and quiet, of just being able to get on a plane and go to Australia without ever having to ask anyone’s permission. Luckily, I can just take my sketch pad on the plane.”

Callum’s Personal Picks

For so long, working at Ford, Aston Martin and Jaguar meant Callum kept schtum about other marques. And while hard on his own designs, we managed to squeeze him on
a few that prompt a smile.

JAGUAR F-TYPE

“I’m very satisfied with the F-Type, and I’ll take some credit for that one. I was inspired by the E-Type for that back end, and I pushed very hard for that; it was all about the form of the vehicle.”

JAGUAR I-PACE

“The I-Pace has to be up at the top as well, just because it was a chance to do something so different. And the XF is a favourite, too, because it really turned Jaguar around.”

ASTON MARTIN VANQUISH

“Clearly the strongest Aston I did. I did the DB9, but it was a more genteel version of it. I think the Vanquish is more satisfying.”

PORSCHE 992/993

“I’m a big fan of the Porsche 911, in particularly the 993, I have one of those; it was done by a friend of mine, Tony Hatter. And I’m also a great fan of the 992 version, the quality of the detailing and the overall profile. To make a 911 is not an easy thing, and this new 993 one really works.”

AUDI TT

“I admire the original—true.”

FERRARI 250 SWB

“The 1960 Ferrari 250 short wheelbase, by Berlinetta Scaglietti, is just such a beautiful car.”

This piece is from our new Design Issue – on sale now. Get your copy or subscribe here, or stay up to speed with the Robb Report weekly newsletter.

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents and a creamy-taupe, vintage-inspired dial. This particular model arrives on a steel bracelet with an eggshell dial and presents as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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