
Watches & Wonders 2024 Showcase: IWC Schaffhausen
We head to Geneva for the Watches & Wonders exhibition; a week-long horological blockbuster featuring the hottest new drops, and no shortage of hype.
With Watches & Wonders 2024 well and truly behind us, its importance on the industry—and the trends that follow—is obvious. For the uninitiated, the week-long affair is the marquee horological presentation of the year. It’s where the world’s top brands convene to reveal their latest novelties and updates to revered models.
You’ve likely caught glimpses of the extravagant event across social media; the world’s biggest brands shelling out millions of dollars to highlight its newest novelties for 2024. But if you can move past the ritziness and watch snobbery that ensued, there’s much to be said about the releases from this year’s event.
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IWC

In its last few Watches & Wonders outings, IWC Schaffhausen has gone from strength to strength, particularly in consolidating its rugged Pilot’s Watch category. This year, the focus shifts from brawn to beauty with the revamp of one of its most renowned collections, the Portugieser. Cleaner lines, pops of colour, and dimensions that are significantly slimmer, and lighter, on the wrist were the order of the day.
Tinkering with such an established collection, without fundamentally changing its DNA, was always going to be a challenge for the watchmaking department. Thankfully, the latest Portugieser novelties are meticulously executed, heralding a bright future while paying homage to the past. “The Portugieser has remained incredibly fresh and modern to this day,” raves Christian Knoop, chief design officer at IWC. “You can compare it to modernism in architecture and design, which ushered in the creation of many timeless buildings and furniture.”
This time around, we’re treated to a re-engineered Portugieser Automatic time-only in 40mm and 42 mm, with a noticeably slimmer case, double box-glass sapphire crystal-showcasing IWC-manufactured movements from the 52000 and 82000 calibre families—and new coloured dials, like Horizon Blue and Dune, inspired by the different atmospheres of day and night. There is also a new Chronograph, a timepiece that, since 1998, has put its stamp on the category. Like its automatic counterpart, it features three new liveries, and is powered by the 69355 calibre, a robust mechanical chronograph movement in a classic column-wheel design.

Some of the loudest noise at this year’s fair, however, reverberated around the new Eternal Calendar, which has a putative moon-phase accuracy of 45 million years, and is the first secular perpetual calendar-making it one of the brand’s most intricate timepieces to date. This new iteration translates the irregular calendar into a mechanical program for a wristwatch, which happens to be one of the most challenging and technical engineering feats in fine watchmaking.
Rounding out the hyped new Portugieser references is a hand-wound Tourbillon with a globe-shaped day and night indicator, as well as the reissue of the Perpetual Calendar 44 mm—a piece that, over the last two decades, has established itself as a pillar of the collection. You’ll find a reworked case construction with double-box sapphire glass and a new dial finish. Where IWC will focus its watchmaking efforts next is anyone’s guess, but the smart money is on the Portugieser remaining the talking point in the horological world for months to come.
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Read more about this year’s Watches & Wonders exhibition at robbreport.com.au
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