Watches & Wonders 2024 Showcase: Cartier
We head to Geneva for the Watches & Wonders exhibition; a week-long horological blockbuster featuring the hottest new drops, and no shortage of hype.
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With Watches & Wonders 2024 well and truly behind us, its importance on the industry—and the trends that follow—is obvious. For the uninitiated, the week-long affair is the marquee horological presentation of the year. It’s where the world’s top brands convene to reveal their latest novelties and updates to revered models.
You’ve likely caught glimpses of the extravagant event across social media; the world’s biggest brands shelling out millions of dollars to highlight its newest novelties for 2024. But if you can move past the ritziness and watch snobbery that ensued, there’s much to be said about the releases from this year’s event.
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CARTIER
Despite being behind some canonical pieces, Cartier was once frowned upon by haute watch snobs for its lacklustre movements and habitual designs. No longer. The company has reimagined its watchmaking division to ensure that its legacy collections continue to thrive while earning kudos as an innovative player. This shift is reflected in its 2024 novelties, which include some unexpected, but welcome, updates.
For one, the Cartier Tortue receives a grand revival, boasting a flawless time-only version, as well as the unique monopoussoir chronograph complication (for the uninitiated, the design allows the wearer to operate all start, stop and reset functions through the crown). Essentially a tonneau-shaped tortue à pattes or “turtle on legs”, the new version presents as a faithful reissue, with subtle tweaks, and is the latest induction to its highly sought-after Privé collection. The watch features many of the hallmarks that made the original so distinctive, including the apple-shaped hands, a rail-track that follows the iconic shape of the watch around the hour markers and, of course, the incredible chronograph movement of the monopoussoir. At 4.3 mm thick, this is the thinnest chronograph movement in the maison’s armoury, and a contender for dress watch of the year.
It wouldn’t be a complete Cartier reveal without an update to the Santos collection, which welcomes two newly imagined hero pieces, the Santos-Dumont Rewind, and Santos de Cartier Dual Time, in a nod to the daring legacy of aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.
The former reinterprets how the wearer traditionally tells the time-in this case, in reverse. This limited-edition (200 numbered pieces) is designed with a stunning carnelian red dial and features the Calibre 230 MC, which is really a base 430 MC movement modified to engineer the inverted rotation of the hands. Whether this is a daily watch you can get used to—how long does it take to tell the time in reverse?—is anyone’s guess, but the new Santos-Dumont Rewind is certainly fun and très Cartier.
Then there’s the bold Santos de Cartier Dual Time, allowing the wearer to track two different time zones at once. It’s the first member of the Santos family to receive a GMT complication, and it not only acknowledges its aviation roots but does so without sacrificing the aesthetics or proportions of this iconic model; the tapered, economic form offers a clear synergy between the case’s lines and those of the bracelet. Available in steel or leather, all versions can be interchanged thanks to the patented QuickSwitch system, while the metal bracelet can be adjusted to the nearest link with Cartier’s patented SmartLink system. A boon for any fan or collector of the Santos catalogue.
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