
Watches & Wonders 2024 Showcase: Rolex
At the marquee horological presentation of the year, a lot of the hysteria was reserved for Rolex.
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With Watches & Wonders 2024 well and truly behind us, its importance on the industry—and the trends that follow—is obvious. For the uninitiated, the week-long affair is the marquee horological presentation of the year. It’s where the world’s top brands convene to reveal their latest novelties and updates to revered models.
You’ve likely caught glimpses of the extravagant event across social media; the world’s biggest brands shelling out millions of dollars to highlight its newest novelties for 2024. But if you can move past the ritziness and watch snobbery that ensued, there’s much to be said about the releases from this year’s event. In this instalment, we lead off with the ne plus ultra of luxury watchmaking, Rolex.
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ROLEX

By now, we know that Rolex doesn’t succumb to fanfare; instead, it makes watches on its own terms, unveiling novelties in dribs and drabs. The stance continues this year as the luxury Swiss watchmaker adds a new spin to time-honoured models. There’s nothing revolutionary at play with 2024’s creative specialities—not enough to warrant the hysteria that ensued in Geneva—but we didn’t just receive cosmetic updates, either.
We got to welcome a new GMT-Master II to the luxury arena (pictured below). Now in its 70th year of production, the revered traveller’s companion receives a stealthy new appearance thanks to its grey-and-black ceramic bezel; subsequently earning the aptly furtive moniker, the “Bruce Wayne”. The non-limited piece comes with the elegant Jubilee bracelet or rugged Oyster bracelet, and harks back to the 2007 GMT-Master release with its green accents and subdued appearance. Sure, this GMT unveiling might not have been the reference collectors were clamouring for—will we ever see the return of the red-and-black “Coke” bezel?—but the new GMT-Master II certainly adds glitz to the collection.
Elsewhere, the Oyster Perpetual 1908 (picture top), now in its second year of production, was unveiled in 950 platinum with a new Ice Blue guilloché dial, much to the satisfaction of dress watch enthusiasts. This stunning iteration of the 1908 builds on the success of last year’s release, this time via a centrepiece guilloché dial and guilloché rice-grain motif with a distinctive three-dimensional, geometric pattern. Finished on a brown alligator leather strap, the 1908 is one of the slickest dress watches of the year, and adds needed flair to the played-out, industry-wide blue-dial theme.

For those who prefer to brave the depths of the ocean with around $86,800 strapped to the wrist, the new Rolex Deepsea is bound to generate interest, however niche. Not for the faint-hearted, this divers’ watch is presented in 18-karat yellow gold, adding considerable heft and razzle-dazzle to an otherwise tool-specific timepiece.
For extra flash and dash, the Deepsea comes with a stunning 60-minute graduated Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic, as well as a blue lacquer dial.
Perhaps the biggest news from Rolex this year is the discontinuation of the 2023 Rolex Le Mans Daytona. Marking what could be the shortest production run of any Rolex ever—and arguably the company’s best offering in years— the 18-karat white gold Daytona was swiftly replaced with a new off-catalogue, special-order-only Le Mans edition, now in 18-karat yellow gold, which rivals the best of the Paul Newman-era Daytonas. It remains to be seen whether more information will be revealed about this handsome newcomer, or if it will have the same impact as its predecessor.
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Read more about this year’s Watches & Wonders exhibition at robbreport.com.au
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