Six Brands Spearheading the Sapphire Watch Case Trend

When everything falls perfectly into place, the effect created by a sapphire case is truly extraordinary, revealing heretofore hidden dimensions.

By John Lyon 08/02/2017

For an industry so steeped in tradition, watchmaking is certainly no stranger to fads. And like high frequency movements and silicon components before them, sapphire cases are the dernier cri for manufactures looking to showcase their advanced watchmaking capabilities.

Although synthetic sapphire has long been the material of choice for wristwatch crystals due to its extreme hardness and scratch resistance, brands were hesitant to attempt to use it for an entire case because its brittleness means that even a slight error during the manufacturing process can result in breakage, rendering the entire piece unusable.

But when everything falls perfectly into place, the effect created by a sapphire case is truly extraordinary (though the uninitiated may at first think it is made from plastic), revealing heretofore hidden dimensions of movement construction and finishing.

Here we present six of our favorite watch brands producing timepieces with sapphire cases.

Richard Mille

Much of the credit for sparking the current sapphire case trend in watchmaking belongs to Richard Mille, which introduced its first entirely sapphire-encased watch, the RM 056, at SIHH in 2012. At the time, the watch was just as shocking for its $US1.7 million (about $A2.2 million) price tag as it was for its unconventional case material. And while the brand has released a number of subsequent all-sapphire watches, their prices have remained at a premium.

The most recent version for men, the RM 056 Tourbillon Chronograph Sapphire Felipe Massa (reportedly priced between $US1.7 and $2 million) was released to celebrate Richard Mille’s decade-long partnership with Brazilian Formula One driver Felipe Massa. Perfect for a day on the track, the watch is equipped with a split-seconds chronograph and a tachymeter on the bezel.

Not to exclude women from the fun, the RM 07-02 “Pink Lady” Automatic Pink Sapphire ($US980,000) takes its nickname from the iconic Pink Lady cocktail popular in the 1930s. Design elements include hand-decorated gold bridges, a central dial set in onyx and diamonds, skeletonised plates set with gold and diamonds, and a white alligator-skin strap. (richardmille.com)

Greubel Forsey

The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Technique Sapphire is a variant of the watch that won the 2011 International Chronometry Competition in Le Locle, Switzerland, granted further exclusivity with a case crafted entirely from a single piece of polished synthetic-sapphire crystal, including the lugs. Banding the circumference is a gold sight ring engraved with the core values of the manufacture and finished in lacquer.

Within the transparent timepiece, the three-dimensional architecture displays polished-gold hour and minute hands that trace over a sapphire ring, set with lacquered hour indices. A level below lies the small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, counters for both the inner tourbillon (angled at 30 degrees and with a 60-second rate of rotation) and outer tourbillon (with 4-minute rotation) at 6 o’clock, and the 120-hour power reserve indicator positioned at 3 o’clock. A more revealing perspective of the movement is visible through the caseback. Only eight examples were made, each priced at approximately $US1.1 million (about $A1.4 million). (greubelforsey.com)

Hublot

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire is not the first high-end mechanical watch to be encased in transparent, scratch-resistant sapphire, but at a price of $US57,900 (about $A75,700) and with a sizable production run of 500 pieces, it is the first accessible model. “I thought about creating a sapphire watch for more than 20 years, but it was always too expensive,” says Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot. “We now have the power to invest heavily in a project, so we decided to industrialise sapphire.”

To that end, Hublot recently acquired the equipment for machining and polishing the tough but brittle material — a process eased by the new model’s sandwich construction. Complex structures inside the case, such as the hands and dial, are cast from transparent resin. According to Guadalupe, this limits the amount of sapphire machining and polishing required for each case, which accounts for most of the cost savings.

Other brands make sapphire watches on almost an individual basis, an approach Hublot itself took when creating the $US575,000 MP-05 LaFerrari Sapphire watch it unveiled earlier this year. However, the company still managed to price that watch — despite its dramatic case curves — well below its sapphire competitors, and this, Guadalupe says, is just the beginning. “There are a lot of possibilities for creativity for future watches in sapphire.” (hublot.com)

H. Moser

Though smaller than many of the brands on this list, H. Moser was quick to deliver its own take on the all-sapphire case, unveiling of the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Skeleton on the first day of Baselworld 2015. In addition to its transparent case, which beautifully reveals the details of the tourbillon and the rest of the skeleton movement, the watch is paired with a 3D–printed strap that has a translucent quality of its own.

The brand delivered a follow-up late last year in the form of the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time Sapphire Blue Skeleton, which built upon the original watch by adding a blued finish to much of the movement’s componetry. Both editions were produced solely as one-off releases. (h-moser.com)

MB&F

Known for its position at the avant garde of watchmaking, it is no surprise that boutique Swiss manufacture MB&F earns a spot on this list. A riff on the company’s art deco–inspired “Space Pirate” watch, the Horological Machine No. 6 SV offers an improved look at its unique movement design — mostly obscured on the original version — by sandwiching it between two sections of solid sapphire. To accommodate the watch’s flying tourbillon and four rotating spheres (two of which are used to tell the time), the case also features nine individual sapphire domes. These domes, along with the numerous curves found on the two main pieces, add greatly to the complexity of the machining process and therefore increase the risk of a minute error rendering the entire piece of sapphire useless.

The Horological Machine No. 6 SV is available in either red gold ($US350,000, or about $A458,000) or platinum ($US380,000), with each version limited to just 10 pieces. (mbandf.com)

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross’s signature cockpit-instrument design is on grand display in the BR-X1 Tourbillon Sapphire ($US495,000, or about $A647,000). By far the most expensive watch the brand has ever produced, the timepiece has an all-sapphire case whose transparent sides provide a clear look at the monopusher chronograph tourbillon movement.

Working with the Geneva-based complications specialist MHC, Bell & Ross gave the ultramodern watch an added sense of airiness by employing one of watchmaking’s oldest movement constructions: columns that slightly elevate the bridges from the main plate. Additional cutaways on the plates enhance the view from the sides, allowing the working components to be admired from many angles. (bellross.com)

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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