
How Louis Vuitton Is Reviving Its Coveted Monterey Watch From the 1980s
The French fashion label’s debut watch, a collector’s darling, has been revived for a new generation.
Louis Vuitton may be better known for its high fashion than its high horology, but it has been designing and debuting ambitious timepieces with impressive frequency for more than a decade. Ever since the maison’s 2011 acquisition of La Fabrique du Temps—the Geneva-based workshop founded by veteran watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas—it has maintained a dizzying pace of innovation, creating complicated masterworks from minute repeaters to automatons, several of which have claimed top honours at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

But Louis Vuitton is by no means new to watchmaking; in fact, it has been producing timepieces since the late 1980s. In partnership with Italian designer and architect Gae Aulenti—who famously transformed Paris’s Gare d’Orsay train station into the Musée d’Orsay—the brand released the LV I and LV II in 1988. These references were notable in several respects: their pebble-like, lugless cases with a 12 o’clock crown evoked the silhouette of vintage pocket watches, while their dials offered world time, GMT and date display (LV I), or date and time plus an alarm function (LV II). Originally, both models were powered not by hand-finished mechanical movements but by then-trendy quartz calibres.

Produced in white or yellow gold or in black or green ceramic, the watches were nicknamed Monterey, a play on the English pronunciation of montre—French for “watch”. Though Louis Vuitton would later introduce the Tambour collection in 2002, the LV I and LV II remain the maison’s true collectible “vintage” or “neo-vintage” wristwatches—especially as a new generation of enthusiasts rediscovers them on the wrists of celebrities and at major auctions.
Now, the brand has reissued this classic silhouette, updating it for the modern collector with in-house savoir faire. And it even has an official new name: the Louis Vuitton Monterey.

Housed within a 39 mm yellow-gold case with a specially widened and notched crown at 12 o’clock, the timepiece features a white grand feu enamel dial with a simplified, time-only display. The design is punctuated by red and blue railroad minute tracks, black Arabic indices, and the model’s signature skeletonised syringe hands in red lacquer, complemented by a blued-steel seconds hand. Requiring more than 20 hours of fabrication, the lustrous dial is achieved through successive applications of vitreous enamel, each fired in a kiln heated between 800 and 900 degrees Celsius—a significant refinement from the simpler lacquered dials of the originals.

Beneath its elevated new face lies an equally impressive engine. In lieu of quartz, the Monterey now houses the automatic Calibre LFTMA01.02, produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps. Its circular-grained mainplate, sandblasted bridges and micro-blasted edges speak to meticulous finishing, while an 18-karat rose-gold winding rotor delivers a 45-hour power reserve and a beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. A black calf-leather strap with an 18-karat yellow-gold pin buckle completes the elegant package.
Reviving both a key historical model and an emblem of 1980s design for the modern era is no small feat, but if recent reactions to Louis Vuitton’s horological creations are any indication, this pared-back Monterey is poised to capture contemporary collectors’ imaginations. From around $80,570
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