Seven luxury watches that redefine ‘entry level’

Each of the seven watches offers a level of finishing, functionality, or complication that is seldom seen for the same price.

By Justin Mastine-frost 11/04/2017

Between the heavy propagation of steel watches and the ever-expanding list of watch brands adding less complicated (and thus more affordable) models to their collections, "bang for your buck" is the one trend more luxury watch brands than ever are embracing.

"This is _the_ new economic trend in our industry, and brands need to adapt." Stated Thomas Morf, CEO of Favre-Leuba, a recently rebooted brand whose vintage chronographs and dive watches from the 1960s and '70s have been gaining traction in the collector market. "It's not about being cheap, but perceived value is very important to collectors and consumers, and we all need to pay close attention."

And Morf is right — though overall sales are still on the decline, statistics from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry show that through 2016 and into the first quarter of 2017, sales of watches made from steel and other non-precious metals have been the least impacted. In February alone, year-over-year volume of steel watch sales declined 13.6 percent less than those made in precious metals (5.6 percent less versus 19.2 percent less).

Broadening our scope beyond the category of steel watches, we took a deep dive into a number of different segments, selecting seven incredible timepieces that lead their respective categories not necessarily by being the most affordable, but by offering a level of finishing, functionality, or complication that is seldom seen for the same price.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

Bulgari was one of a few brands at Baselworld this year that was not satisfied with simple changes to existing models. Its latest rendition of the Octo Finissimo Automatic has set a new record as the thinnest automatic watch in the world, dethroning Piaget from its long-standing reign over the ultra-thin realm.

Its movement measures a mere 2.23 mm thick (just a bit thicker than the manual-winding movement in an earlier Finissimo model), and thanks to the use of titanium in its case and bracelet, the piece is a true featherweight on the wrist. What's more, Bulgari didn't stop at the pursuit of slimness — it went to great lengths in redesigning the Octo's bracelet, notching its links at the clasp to ensure that wafer-thin profile was maintained throughout.

Until now, owning the world's thinnest automatic calibre (the Piaget Altiplano in white gold) would have set you back north of $US24,700 (about $A32,970), but opting for a titanium case and bracelet Bulgari was able to keep the pricing of the new model down to $US12,800 (about $A17,080) on a leather bracelet and $US13,900 (about $A18,550) on its titanium bracelet.

Having tried both examples in Basel, the bracelet is absolutely worth spending the extra money on. Unlike many release from the fair, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic is available now through select boutiques and retailers worldwide. (bulgari.com)

Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante

First unveiled in 2016, the Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante, $US59,950 (about $A80,000), brings a particularly rare combination of complications to the table at a relatively modest entry price: a tourbillon, a flyback double column-wheel split-second chronograph, automatic winding, and a power reserve indication. Simple, right?

Cased in titanium, the U30 uses one of many impressive in-house calibres designed by Dr. Sébastien Chaulmontet, the former head of movement design for both Angelus and Arnold & Son. Not only does it showcase an incredible level of technical prowess from the brand's parent company, La Joux-Perret, but also a rare example of restraint in terms of pricing.

Considering Richard Mille's take on the tourbillon split — including his latest release from SIHH— teeters on the million-dollar mark, the U30 has value written all over it. (angelus-watches.com)

Rolex Datejust 41 in Stainless Steel

Between the redesigned Sea-Dweller and new Cellini Moonphase that Rolex unveiled at Baselworld this month, you may well have missed the mention from Rolex that the redesigned Datejust 41 released last year is now available in steel, from $US7350 (about $A9800). As with last year's gold model, the crucial detail lies under the hood in the form of the Rolex calibre 3235.

The movement takes advantage of 14 new patents for the brand, including its Chronergy escapement and Parachrom hairspring, which together with other changes boost the calibre's power reserve to 70 hours while maintaining an impeccable accuracy of -2/+2 seconds a day. (rolex.com)

Christophe Claret Maestro

When Christophe Claret announced the launch of the Maestro — its first-ever high-complication watch below $US100,000 (about $A133,500), not to mention its first to come in a daily wear–friendly case size — earlier this year, much of the industry was taken aback.

While nowhere near as complex as past offerings, the three-dimensional movement architecture housed beneath its giant domed crystal, which includes a conical date indication as well as a "memo" indication meant to remind its wearer of an important event, remains true to Claret's boundary-pushing design DNA.

Unlike other selections on this list, the Maestro does come in a pink gold variant as well as the titanium model shown, priced at $US76,000 and $US68,000 (about $A101,450 and $A90,770), respectively. Each variant will be limited to 88 pieces worldwide. (christopheclaret.com)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic

As you may have seen in our recent coverage of the Master Control Chronograph, we're particularly fond of these new additions to the Master range for a couple of reasons. Aside from their increased visual appeal, which draws influence from the vintage realm, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic also undercuts any other offering in the Master family with a second time-zone display by at least $US1400 (about $A1870).

Coming in at $US9400 (about $A12,550), the Master Geographic uses a quick-setting function set via a crown at 10 o'clock to allow its wearer to rapidly switch between time zones being displayed on its subdial.

The elegant steel piece is a remarkably versatile offering from Jaeger-LeCoultre that transitions from nine-to-five to weekender without issue, and according to the company, the response from retailers has been quite positive. In many cases, pre-orders are already being taken for an expected June or July delivery schedule. (jaeger-lecoultre.com)

Nord Zeitmaschine Freesdial

Easily the least-trafficked brand to make our list, the one-man operation of Nord Zeitmaschine has released a trio of cleverly executed timepieces that are more than worthy of a nod in the value category. Based out of a small workshop near Basel, Switzerland, Daniel Nebel started his career in tool building and prototype machining before applying his mechanical passion to the world of watchmaking.

By using the ETA's 2824 automatic movement as a base, and by running with very little overhead, Daniel is able to offer his elaborate creations at a fraction of what one would expect given the complex methods used to indicate time.

The Freesdial, $US23,500 (about $A31,370), is his most elaborate piece to date, and as you can see in the video below, relying on a static image to relay the impressive nature of Daniel's creations simply would not suffice. (nord-zeitmaschine.ch)

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Chronograph

Zenith has embarked on a significant push to adjust its pricing in recent years, and this latest and rather innovative chronograph is a prime example of these efforts.

The Defy El Primero 21, from $US9600 (about $A12,800) for a closed-dial version in titanium, uses an all-new calibre that runs two separate balances — one used for timekeeping running at an El Primero standard 36,000 vibrations per hour — and a second balance operating at 360,000 vph, which allows the chronograph to measure increments of a hundredth of a second.

Both balances have mainsprings made of Zenith's new carbon-matrix carbon nanotube composite. While the timekeeping portion of the movement is self-winding via its rotor, the chronograph is manually wound via the crown.

It's safe to say this new piece isn't particularly practical for day-to-day use, but we're thrilled to see this level of innovation being released without the usual stratospheric price of entry. (zenith-watches.com)

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected