The Man Behind Aman

Meet Vladislav Doronin, who currently leads one of the most premium hotel brands in the world.

By Helena Madden 08/04/2021

It’s no small thing to work with Kengo Kuma. The architect has, among other things, recently designed Japan National Stadium, one of the main venues for the now delayed 2020 Summer Olympics. Vladislav Doronin commissioned him to design a skincare bottle. It might seem too insignificant to matter, but it speaks to the Aman chairman and CEO’s ability to wave his hand and suddenly be working with one of the biggest architects in the world, even for something as mundane as the packaging of a branded body mist. But for Doronin these details—from the bottle’s curved shape to its soft, vein-like patterns—are all important.

His go-to list of architects has taken time to grow—adding names since his days developing commercial and residential real estate in Moscow in the 1990s. “I had to convince the mayor and the city planners to let me bring in foreign architects,” he says. “It was a bit controversial. They didn’t want it. I told them, ‘I’m not going to build for the moment. We can learn from the western architects’ process.’ ”

Doronin’s introduction to Aman, the five-star-hotel chain that he would helm years later, happened even earlier, as a consumer, when he checked in to the very first Aman, the Amanpuri—its name translates to “place of peace” from Sanskrit—in Phuket, Thailand. He became infatuated.

Aman resorts distinguish themselves by their limited number of rooms—at Amanpuri, for example, there are only 40 villas, and it feels like even fewer—in remote, largely untouched locales. Service offerings are impeccable and indulgent; there’s now an Aman private jet that guests can charter at their leisure. The design aesthetic leans toward serene minimalism, and immersive wellness programs can be tailored to the individual. The brand’s devotees, or “Aman junkies”, stay exclusively at Aman locations for these reasons. Some even make it a goal to visit every single location—no small feat, as today there are 32 in 20 countries.

Aman New York Residence

Doronin counted himself an Aman junkie from then on and made a concerted effort to stay at one, even if it meant travelling hours out of his way. But it wasn’t until many years later that he made a bid to acquire Aman. The time in between was spent working on Capital Group, his real-estate development firm, which oversaw the construction of more than 70 buildings and helped to create Moscow’s business district. Buying Aman would give Doronin the keys to a brand he personally revered and, perhaps even more importantly, help him expand his burgeoning real-estate portfolio into international markets. But a peaceful transfer of power it was not.

Doronin purchased Aman from its founder, Adrian Zecha, for approx. $470 million in 2014 as part of a joint venture with entrepreneur Omar Amanat. Boardroom disputes quickly broke out: Doronin accused Amanat of committing fraud when negotiating their partnership and forced him to sell his shares; Amanat claimed that Doronin illegally seized them. When Zecha subsequently stepped down—some reports say he was pushed—Doronin crowned himself CEO. That conclusion didn’t sit well with all parties involved, and it wasn’t until two years later that the high-profile lawsuit was settled. When asked about this contentious executive change, Doronin pauses—and you can almost hear the public-relations coaching in the background—then says, simply, “I am the chairman and CEO of Aman.”

Now, four years after the verdict, the smoke has largely cleared, but much has changed for Aman. (Zecha is off reimagining the ryokan concept in Japan as part of his new brand, Azumi, and Amanat was found guilty in 2017 of defrauding start-up investors.) Long-time collaborators have taken notice. “It’s mostly commercial and food and beverage changes,” says architect Jean-Michel Gathy, who has designed 12 resorts for the brand since 1989. “Adrian was a man who didn’t really believe in that. Vlad is the opposite. He wants to make money and be a bit more aggressive commercially. He believes in more rooms. The 20 or 30 that Adrian liked is not enough. He wants 40 or 50.”

Aman New York Residence

As proof, take Aman New York, which will open in autumn 2021. On paper, it seems like the antithesis to all that the typical Aman junkie values: instead of some far-flung outpost, it’s located smack in the middle of Manhattan; rather than 30 rooms, it has 83. Architecturally, it’s hardly the minimalist teak façade that the brand is commonly associated with. Doronin dropped approx. $624 million on floors four through 26 of the Crown Building, a 26-storey tower at 57th Street and Fifth Avenue that reeks of Gilded Age grandeur. Completed in 1921, it was designed by Warren and Wetmore, the same architects who built Grand Central Terminal. Over the years the building has primarily housed interior-design showrooms and corporate offices; MoMA opened its first gallery there before it moved to 53rd Street in 1939.

Aman New York was Gathy’s first assignment from the new CEO, and the drastic change of pace was immediately apparent. “Adrian would say, ‘Jean-Michel, you design. You know better than me.’ He would never make a comment,” the architect notes. “Vlad, no. He comments on everything. He’s extremely analytical. He will comment on the wood, the fabric, the number of seats, the plates. Everything. It’s an expensive building. He has to make sure he makes money.”

Part of the return-on-investment strategy has to do with branded residences. Doronin has been especially bullish on implementing these, and Aman New York will be the first batch in the US and in a major city. The timing, though, isn’t exactly advantageous. “It’s coming online at a particularly challenging point in the market,” says appraiser Jonathan Miller, president and CEO of real-estate consulting firm Miller Samuel. Aside from the urban flight to the Hamptons, New York real estate has other challenges at the high-net-worth level. “We’re still waking up from the Covid-19 lockdown, and most of the activity can be found below the $2 million [approx. $2.6 million] threshold.” That’s a segment that Aman New York’s 22 residences can’t touch, with prices starting at around $17.7 million.

What makes Doronin so sure they’ll sell? “One, I can replace any skyscraper. I just need to find the land or the building demolition. But I cannot replace the Crown Building. It’s unique,” he says. “Two, location. It’s an unbeatable location with a park view. I tell buyers, ‘You’re above the clouds.’ And it’s full-service. We can arrange your romantic dinner for you. We can bring hot cappuccino to your apartment. You don’t need to have a butler or chef. We have everything.”

Amanpuri, Thailand – Retail Pavilion by Kengo Kuma

He says more than half of the apartments have already been sold. And if it’s true that the Aman New York’s five-storey penthouse is under contract for approx. $236 million, as has been reported, then that would make the residence far and away the most expensive apartment ever sold in New York on a per-square-metre basis.

For further perspective, take the rival Mandarin Oriental Residences, which are located nearby at Columbus Circle and could scarcely achieve approx. $39 million or a penthouse sale in June, settling for approx. $30 million. Meanwhile, a midtown Ritz-Carlton penthouse was originally shopped for approx. $125 million eight years ago; now its price has been slashed to approx. $64 million. The residences’ sales matter, as Aman New York’s performance, will be seen as a bellwether for the brand’s Miami location, which is set to open in 2023 and will also feature branded residences.

One would think that something of Aman New York’s scale (and timing) would represent Doronin’s most complex undertaking. But of all his professional and personal projects, he counts his own Moscow home as one of the most difficult. It’s also the one he’s best known for, as it’s the only private residence designed by the late Zaha Hadid. The two were close friends and shared a love of Suprematist art, a short-lived and deeply radical movement characterised by geometric shapes on an otherwise blank canvas.

The plan was to build a house on a slope in the Barvikha forest where Doronin could wake up in the morning, open his window and see the blue sky and the tops of the trees. Hadid sketched her idea on a napkin while the two were having lunch in London. He liked it, and with that, they were on their way. “I’ll tell you the truth, it was very challenging,” says Doronin. “She does not let you cut any corners. She wants exactly want she wants. We changed construction companies three times because nobody can build what she suggests.”

The results, however, speak for themselves. Known as the Capital Hill Residence, it’s a sprawling, one-of-a-kind home that marries land and sky. Spaces such as the garage and fitness studio are underground, with the night club and pool carved into the slope of the hill. The primary bedroom floats 36 metres above it all, connected by three slender columns.

It looks part grounded starship Enterprise, part air-traffic-control centre—basically, there’s nothing else like it. “For me it’s important that there are people like Vladislav who have the means to invest in something and explore what the good life is at the highest and most refined level,” says Zaha Hadid Architects principal Patrik Schumacher, who worked on the Capital Hill Residence with Hadid herself. “These things were initially prototype solutions, and they can become more accessible, but someone has to initially explore them and help figure out what works and what doesn’t.”

But at the moment it’s Janu, Aman’s new sister brand, that Doronin seems most eager to talk about. His idea is to create a slightly larger, more affordable and more social Aman that still has the brand DNA but targets a younger audience. “Aman I want to keep very quiet, very private. We play jazz music there. I don’t want that to change,” Doronin says. “For Janu we can go more open. We can create more life, more energy, different kinds of music, sports.” He’s going big, too, launching eight Janu properties over the course of 10 years. But is it counterintuitive to be doubling down on a socialised hospitality model in a Covid-19 world? “The exclusivity and the luxury of not too many people around is still strong,” says James Bidwell, the former CEO of Visit London and the chair of Springwise, a database that analyses the potential of innovative new business ideas across multiple industries, including travel. “I think one would want to avoid being the WeWork for hotels at all costs.”

Regardless of whether it succeeds, Janu requires Doronin to recruit a fresh roster of architects and designers to originate a similar but different look for the brand. Among them is the renowned and youthful interior and product-design firm Yabu Pushelberg, which is lending its expertise to Janu Montenegro. “In the public spaces there’s more food and beverage programming and there’s more ability to stay apart or come together,” says Glenn Pushelberg, one of the two principals.

“The vibe is a little less monastic.” The firm will oversee all of Janu Montenegro’s interior elements, from finishes and wall sconces down to smaller elements like cutlery and glassware. Who’s on deck for the next one? “I don’t want to give you the name because Aman competitors will try and steal from me,” Doronin says. “Let me finish my work at least. Everybody copies and pastes now, unfortunately.” Except, it’s implied, for Doronin.

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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