Robb Interview: Philipe Starck

I spent my late youth staring at Philip Starck’s naked torso. It was the cover of an eponymous art book – Starck standing proudly and puffed out, a right hand pulling at a belt loop of washed denim jeans, his head twisted 180 degrees to the rear, the back of his head sat atop his doughy body facing outwards. In hindsight it was a pretty crude Photoshop job (the reverse play informing the book’s back cover) but it also projected an immediate sense of fun and whimsy – two tenets often found in his wide output, and surely, an insight into the man himself. The book stood tall on the bookshelf of the share house bedroom I bunked down in – a peculiar image that would prove my final sight each day. Cut to a here and 11pm one recent Wednesday and a slightly blurred image of an older Philipe Starck -- thoughtful as he speaks, a permanent smirk etched across his gentle, bearded face – presents itself through the Macbook. Our conversation is wide-ranging and far removed from expectation. Here there is indeed whimsy and fun, zero ego or even any appreciation for all he has achieved. Starck will admit that his is a “lonely” existence through choice, a life devoid of people (save his wife, Jasmine) and time spent lost to his mind and its constant, swirling whir of creation. Read the following as it is. Let his words play out as they do. It is at times rambling, contradictory and arguably lined by eccentricity. And some is muddled by translation, sure. But read this and also hear the genius that walks a sharpened edge; the wonder of his mind; the love and creativity that drives all Philipe Starck does.
Starck’s iconic Louis Ghost, inspired by armchairs popular during King Louis XVI’s reign.
Mr Stark, good evening. I wanted to say, as someone who’s long admired and directly engaged your work at times, what a privilege it is to speak with you. Oh, you will be disappointed – you will see [laughs].   Am I right in thinking that you’re in Portugal? We are in the mist, we are in the fog, atop of the mountain in Sintra, near the sea.   You like to live remotely – it’s my understanding that most of your global properties are somewhat removed?   There is a technical reason, which is, I live somewhere else in my head. And I basically don’t need a city, I don’t need to go to dinner, to cocktails, to movie theatres, exhibitions and things like that. I have a collection [of houses] in the middle of nowhere with different levels of loneliness… And these different levels of loneliness make for different levels of concentration and that’s where I go to find the level of concentration I need for the type of project I am doing. Here I am in front of the sea at the western point of Europe and I live in the forests with trees, trees, trees. Or I live in the dunes with sand, sand, sand. Or I live in the mud like in my oyster farm in southwest of France or Venice.   Is there inspiration in such surrounds? No. For me, nature – the sea and trees – is neutral. And I’m not intelligent enough to ask for inspiration … I am also not stupid enough or egoist [sic] enough to judge the quality of my work – but we can see the quantity of my work. At this level of creativity [I make] minimum one big complex project a day, sometimes more. Today I shall make one, two, three, four complex and completely different projects. My wife says it’s not really human – I have a mental sickness and it is true, because I have my life and my fantastic wife and everything, but I have no ‘real’ life … To speak frankly, I’m not interested by ‘real’ life. I’m a drug addict of creativity and inside my metal sickness I’m absolutely normal. Everything that I do is absolutely logical inside the crystal bubble of my mental sickness - I don’t regret it.   Your mind is forever restless is what I take from this – which explains your incredible output over the years. Yes that is so. This idea of holidays and relaxation – it’s an obscenity because I don’t see why you would do that; why have holidays when you have the opportunity to live by passion?  I actually can’t make anything other than three things: I can love definitively and I’m very happy and very proud of that, I live for the love of my wife. And then, after that, ha ha, I don’t remember, I have no memory… [laughs]   I recall you like sailing … Yes, YES -- it was this, you are very good. The other thing I know well after love, I’m very good at piloting a sailing boat and also motorcycles and a very good pilot of planes – except when I crash, I did this one time.
The distinctive 142-metre Starck- designed Sailing Yacht A, with 90-metre masts.
  The sense of sole focus when piloting – that must appeal in ways given your mind? I work at a range of 200 - 250 projects at the same time. When I make shoes, I think at the same time about something else, this is my mental sickness … When you pilot a plane you have a need to think only of one thing – to pilot. I like to sail in bad seas and large waves – if you make a mistake that can be a disaster, you turn and break your mast and then you and dead.   You like the extremes Mr Starck - there is no fear there. I dare say your fear lives in the framework of conformity – and is perhaps a driving force? Oh no, I never react to anything. I never make a protestation to something else …   Are you very critical of yourself? I hate what I do and have the highest level of despise [sic] – I am sorry for my English -- of myself and when I finish something my only reaction is to insult myself. I do this all the time, because I see in everything that I do how I was lazy, a coward, dishonest, stupid and I am ashamed of myself when I see what I do.   But what of the positivity your work brings to so many others others – wjo atre in wonder at what you’ve achieved at times.  They love what you do. I don’t know because I never read magazines or interviews and I have almost no contact with people. This is why I have no reflection of myself and no reflection of what I do … Sometimes my wife tells me how a project is appreciated. ‘Oh good’, I will say, and that’ all … I don’t care, I just care for the engagement with myself; I do it for me and I think it’s a good process if you do it for yourself and at the highest level of creativity, the highest level of honesty.   Yours is a pure creativity – devoid of conscious and direct reflection? It is pure and stupid creativity [laughs]. To be more clear, consciously I don’t think about it, but subconsciously I, well, sometimes I realise I’ve worked on a project for 50 years. [Gesticulates to his mind operating as an archaic computer processing ] “Schtroomf, schtroomf, schtroomf” and then one day it’s cooked and it’s finished and I take it out. Sometimes it’s not well cooked or finished and I reject it. Subconsciously I work on all things all the time – it’s a profit of this mental sickness. And it’s why people don’t believe me when I say I’ve designed the yacht of Steve Jobs in just three hours. Tomorrow I go to Iceland to make a polar station and I have [already] designed all the project without knowing the program elements and parametres of the design … In 20 minutes it’s all done.   You still design with pen and paper. Yes, here is my international company [holds up pen and Stack monogrammed notepad]. And I have music too. Almost everyday I listen to the ‘Starck Mix’ – like that I always have the right music for concentration at the right time of the day. This is by the best sound designer in the world, Stephan Crasneanscki of Soundwalk [Collective]. He did it for me 20 years ago. I have other music too – for me the number one to work for concentration is Brian Eno – a perfect balance between intelligence and richness. I feel very close to Brian.   Let’s talk about this notion of art informing design, can they co-exist, do they need to … Let’s separate the things here. I am not interested by the concept of art. To me it is an old bourgeois concept of the 17, -18-, 19th centuries. And everybody can be an artist – they write a business card: ‘Phillipe Stark, artist’. And there are artists who are creative and there are artists who are not creative. And I don’t like this part – because the artists who are not creative hide other creatives because they create things everywhere and in everything. To me it is not art that makes our animal species evolve – it’s creativity… I try to be a creator, I don’t care to be an artist.   Of all you continue to do, a standout is surely this shift into space with the AXIOM project  [world’s first commercial space station]. This is completely new to you and to all – it involves completely new thought about use, space and living. How wonderful. My father had a company that built planes. I am a pilot and I work and travel a lot and live in the air more than on earth. And when I am on earth, I don’t touch the ground [laughs]. I am in the air and I am in this space. And so the thing to understand when you work on a new beautiful project like the new ISS and more – it’s not very complicated. You have to understand how very beautiful and special the people who live here are. Incredible. And you have to deeply understand what zero gravity life is. And life without gravity is very interesting – it’s a multidirectional life. We are mainly vertical, when you are dead horizontal, but mainly vertical and it’s not enough. And because we live vertical and sometimes horizontal [sic] our thinking and our dreams are only bi-directional. It is not enough. I love the idea of the zero-gravity life because it’s a higher self. I am proud of this project. For someone who only lives though future and science and intuition and freedom – it’s almost an intimate [project] and we will continue on others.
Starck imagined the interior of Axiom Space, the world’s first commercial space station.
Again love shines through Mr Starck. For me it is the only thing that exists. I am still not convinced I am alive - I still don’t know what life can be but that means I’m not scared of death … The only thing I know, I see my wife and I see this very strong energy and this is very serious for me – the only hook I have with anything is this tube made of love between my wife and myself.   What a lovely way to see things … Well, without it, without love, I think I’d be in an asylum.   I doubt that somehow. While you’ll never read this – thankyou for your time, merci mille fois, et j’espere a bientot. Merci a vous. starck.com 

Robb Interview: Philipe Starck

I spent my late youth staring at Philip Starck’s naked torso.

It was the cover of an eponymous art book – Starck standing proudly and puffed out, a right hand pulling at a belt loop of washed denim jeans, his head twisted 180 degrees to the rear, the back of his head sat atop his doughy body facing outwards.

In hindsight it was a pretty crude Photoshop job (the reverse play informing the book’s back cover) but it also projected an immediate sense of fun and whimsy – two tenets often found in his wide output, and surely, an insight into the man himself.

The book stood tall on the bookshelf of the share house bedroom I bunked down in – a peculiar image that would prove my final sight each day.

Cut to a here and 11pm one recent Wednesday and a slightly blurred image of an older Philipe Starck — thoughtful as he speaks, a permanent smirk etched across his gentle, bearded face – presents itself through the Macbook.

Our conversation is wide-ranging and far removed from expectation. Here there is indeed whimsy and fun, zero ego or even any appreciation for all he has achieved.

Starck will admit that his is a “lonely” existence through choice, a life devoid of people (save his wife, Jasmine) and time spent lost to his mind and its constant, swirling whir of creation.

Read the following as it is. Let his words play out as they do. It is at times rambling, contradictory and arguably lined by eccentricity. And some is muddled by translation, sure.
But read this and also hear the genius that walks a sharpened edge; the wonder of his mind; the love and creativity that drives all Philipe Starck does.

Starck’s iconic Louis Ghost, inspired by armchairs popular during King Louis XVI’s reign.

Mr Stark, good evening. I wanted to say, as someone who’s long admired and directly engaged your work at times, what a privilege it is to speak with you.

Oh, you will be disappointed – you will see [laughs].

 

Am I right in thinking that you’re in Portugal?
We are in the mist, we are in the fog, atop of the mountain in Sintra, near the sea.

 

You like to live remotely – it’s my understanding that most of your global properties are somewhat removed?  

There is a technical reason, which is, I live somewhere else in my head. And I basically don’t need a city, I don’t need to go to dinner, to cocktails, to movie theatres, exhibitions and things like that. I have a collection [of houses] in the middle of nowhere with different levels of loneliness… And these different levels of loneliness make for different levels of concentration and that’s where I go to find the level of concentration I need for the type of project I am doing. Here I am in front of the sea at the western point of Europe and I live in the forests with trees, trees, trees. Or I live in the dunes with sand, sand, sand. Or I live in the mud like in my oyster farm in southwest of France or Venice.

 

Is there inspiration in such surrounds?

No. For me, nature – the sea and trees – is neutral. And I’m not intelligent enough to ask for inspiration … I am also not stupid enough or egoist [sic] enough to judge the quality of my work – but we can see the quantity of my work. At this level of creativity [I make] minimum one big complex project a day, sometimes more. Today I shall make one, two, three, four complex and completely different projects. My wife says it’s not really human – I have a mental sickness and it is true, because I have my life and my fantastic wife and everything, but I have no ‘real’ life … To speak frankly, I’m not interested by ‘real’ life. I’m a drug addict of creativity and inside my metal sickness I’m absolutely normal. Everything that I do is absolutely logical inside the crystal bubble of my mental sickness – I don’t regret it.

 

Your mind is forever restless is what I take from this – which explains your incredible output over the years.

Yes that is so. This idea of holidays and relaxation – it’s an obscenity because I don’t see why you would do that; why have holidays when you have the opportunity to live by passion?  I actually can’t make anything other than three things: I can love definitively and I’m very happy and very proud of that, I live for the love of my wife. And then, after that, ha ha, I don’t remember, I have no memory… [laughs]

 

I recall you like sailing …

Yes, YES — it was this, you are very good. The other thing I know well after love, I’m very good at piloting a sailing boat and also motorcycles and a very good pilot of planes – except when I crash, I did this one time.

The distinctive 142-metre Starck- designed Sailing Yacht A, with 90-metre masts.

 

The sense of sole focus when piloting – that must appeal in ways given your mind?

I work at a range of 200 – 250 projects at the same time. When I make shoes, I think at the same time about something else, this is my mental sickness … When you pilot a plane you have a need to think only of one thing – to pilot. I like to sail in bad seas and large waves – if you make a mistake that can be a disaster, you turn and break your mast and then you and dead.

 

You like the extremes Mr Starck – there is no fear there. I dare say your fear lives in the framework of conformity – and is perhaps a driving force?

Oh no, I never react to anything. I never make a protestation to something else …

 

Are you very critical of yourself?
I hate what I do and have the highest level of despise [sic] – I am sorry for my English — of myself and when I finish something my only reaction is to insult myself. I do this all the time, because I see in everything that I do how I was lazy, a coward, dishonest, stupid and I am ashamed of myself when I see what I do.

 

But what of the positivity your work brings to so many others others – wjo atre in wonder at what you’ve achieved at times.  They love what you do.

I don’t know because I never read magazines or interviews and I have almost no contact with people. This is why I have no reflection of myself and no reflection of what I do … Sometimes my wife tells me how a project is appreciated. ‘Oh good’, I will say, and that’ all … I don’t care, I just care for the engagement with myself; I do it for me and I think it’s a good process if you do it for yourself and at the highest level of creativity, the highest level of honesty.

 

Yours is a pure creativity – devoid of conscious and direct reflection?

It is pure and stupid creativity [laughs]. To be more clear, consciously I don’t think about it, but subconsciously I, well, sometimes I realise I’ve worked on a project for 50 years. [Gesticulates to his mind operating as an archaic computer processing ] “Schtroomf, schtroomf, schtroomf” and then one day it’s cooked and it’s finished and I take it out. Sometimes it’s not well cooked or finished and I reject it. Subconsciously I work on all things all the time – it’s a profit of this mental sickness. And it’s why people don’t believe me when I say I’ve designed the yacht of Steve Jobs in just three hours. Tomorrow I go to Iceland to make a polar station and I have [already] designed all the project without knowing the program elements and parametres of the design … In 20 minutes it’s all done.

 

You still design with pen and paper.

Yes, here is my international company [holds up pen and Stack monogrammed notepad]. And I have music too. Almost everyday I listen to the ‘Starck Mix’ – like that I always have the right music for concentration at the right time of the day. This is by the best sound designer in the world, Stephan Crasneanscki of Soundwalk [Collective]. He did it for me 20 years ago. I have other music too – for me the number one to work for concentration is Brian Eno – a perfect balance between intelligence and richness. I feel very close to Brian.

 

Let’s talk about this notion of art informing design, can they co-exist, do they need to …

Let’s separate the things here. I am not interested by the concept of art. To me it is an old bourgeois concept of the 17, -18-, 19th centuries. And everybody can be an artist – they write a business card: ‘Phillipe Stark, artist’. And there are artists who are creative and there are artists who are not creative. And I don’t like this part – because the artists who are not creative hide other creatives because they create things everywhere and in everything. To me it is not art that makes our animal species evolve – it’s creativity… I try to be a creator, I don’t care to be an artist.

 

Of all you continue to do, a standout is surely this shift into space with the AXIOM project  [world’s first commercial space station]. This is completely new to you and to all – it involves completely new thought about use, space and living. How wonderful.

My father had a company that built planes. I am a pilot and I work and travel a lot and live in the air more than on earth. And when I am on earth, I don’t touch the ground [laughs]. I am in the air and I am in this space. And so the thing to understand when you work on a new beautiful project like the new ISS and more – it’s not very complicated. You have to understand how very beautiful and special the people who live here are. Incredible. And you have to deeply understand what zero gravity life is. And life without gravity is very interesting – it’s a multidirectional life. We are mainly vertical, when you are dead horizontal, but mainly vertical and it’s not enough. And because we live vertical and sometimes horizontal [sic] our thinking and our dreams are only bi-directional. It is not enough. I love the idea of the zero-gravity life because it’s a higher self. I am proud of this project. For someone who only lives though future and science and intuition and freedom – it’s almost an intimate [project] and we will continue on others.

Starck imagined the interior of Axiom Space, the world’s first commercial space station.

Again love shines through Mr Starck.

For me it is the only thing that exists. I am still not convinced I am alive – I still don’t know what life can be but that means I’m not scared of death … The only thing I know, I see my wife and I see this very strong energy and this is very serious for me – the only hook I have with anything is this tube made of love between my wife and myself.

 

What a lovely way to see things …

Well, without it, without love, I think I’d be in an asylum.

 

I doubt that somehow. While you’ll never read this – thankyou for your time, merci mille fois, et j’espere a bientot.

Merci a vous.

starck.com 

Designing The Future With Rolls Royce

No other brand is more suited to the serene experience offered by electrification than Rolls-Royce. With the launch of Spectre, we get a glimpse of what the future of true EV luxury looks like.

In an alternative timeline, the opulent electrified super coupé you see on these pages, Spectre, Rolls-Royce’s long-awaited debut EV, might be a model of the past.

In 1900, Rolls-Royce co-founder Charles Rolls experienced The Columbia Electric Carriage—one of the world’s first EVs—and was smitten by its potential.

“The electric car is perfectly noiseless and clean,” Rolls proclaimed. “There is no smell or vibration.” Petrol won in the end, but for Rolls, the potential of electricity helped shape his vision of the prestige automobile. One hundred and twenty years later, the now BMW-owned, British marque bearing his name has come full circle.

“Spectre is a Rolls-Royce first and ‘electrified Rolls-Royce’ second,” says Torsten Müller-Ötvös, chief executive officer of Rolls-Royce, speaking to Robb Report ANZ at the recent Spectre reveal at the marque’s home at Goodwood, UK. “The shape clearly signals that this car is a Rolls-Royce.” Despite all the temptations of styling, flexibility and current automotive trends (such as the SUV/crossover boom), Spectre doesn’t stray far from home. But, why would it? A silent and graceful car with an imperious presence is what Rolls-Royce has aspired to since day dot.

Part of Rolls-Royce’s road to full-electrification by 2030, Spectre is the result of more than 2.5 million kilometres of testing and an incredibly thorough rethink around how aerodynamics can meet the traditional coach-building aesthetics central to the marque’s DNA. In numbers, Spectre claims 430kW/900Nm of power and torque, 0-100km/h in 4.5 seconds, a 520km range, and 21.5 kWh/100km efficiency — do the math, and you get a 111kW/h battery. The super coupé is also a shockingly slippery thing, with a drag coefficient of 0.25. Compare that to the pointier Tesla Model S’ 0.24, and it’s a grand testament to the block-nosed, 5.45m-long coupé’s design wizardry. Even the iconic Spirit of Ecstasy hood ornament didn’t escape a sleek makeover—it saw around 830 hours of wind-tunnel testing and modelling to ensure it was aero-tuned to perfection.

Behind its split headlights and enormous ‘Parthenon Grille’ is not a frunk in lieu of a V12, but components, battery systems, fluids and technology. This decision helped achieve its cool, low-slung driving position and full four-seater comfort. “Spectre’s overall impression is what greets you — the long front bonnet, the graceful silhouette beautifully falling towards the back—this is a dramatic feature that recalls the most evocative motor vehicles in history,” design director Anders Warming explains. The high-haunches and curvaceous fastback that fall down to the tail are cleanly sculpted from a single piece of aluminium for aerodynamic precision.

“It’s a very intricate tailoring of what aluminium is able to do,” explains Warming, emphasising the achievement. “We really stretched our engineering colleagues; they helped us a lot to get the right processes in place uninterrupted.”

Spectre’s 1.5m coach doors, the largest ever fitted to a Rolls-Royce, are both optimised for weight and attenuated for pure silence inside. As it turns out, a sense of serenity is also assisted by 700kgs of sound deadening from the battery, ensuring the Rolls-Royce ’magic carpet ride’ feel is not lost. The finer details are exquisite —floating taillights, for example, appear like jewellery, which Warming refers to as  “islands in a lake”); and pleasantly, the interior still has an array of buttons, as well as a new evolution of the ‘starlight’ headliners on offer: Starlight Doors. These can incorporate 4796 dimly lit cosmos-inspired lights. Of course, being the most bespoke-orientated marque in the world, almost every element of Spectre is customisable.

Coach doors with cosmos-inspired “starlight” feature.

With one of the highest levels of luxury connoisseurship in the world, the Rolls-Royce customer helps push and shape the marque’s future decisions. “We’re seeing a new world of luxury clients looking for something less of an element of status. They will have that as well if they need to, but [this is] more of a self-rewarding purchase,” says Müller-Ötvös. “You are rewarding yourself with a piece of art.” This customer is getting younger and is in tune with global shifts, technology and where luxury is moving. “They are always teaching us,” says Warming. “I like to say one plus one is three. In my world, the sum of our conversation [with customers] is greater than us individually. The process with our clients teaches us and inspires us to think differently. I don’t think any other luxury brand is as open to a dialogue with clients as ours. Because we have several thousands of components and so much canvas to create a unique Rolls-Royce car.”

Almost every element
of the cabin can be customised, naturally.

It’s interesting to think that the segment that aims to normalise the electric car, in terms of design, usability and how easily it slides into our lifestyles, is not only at the pinnacle of luxury and rarity, but also has the most flexibility to shift away from the expected —but here we are. “What’s really important about this car is it’s a dawn of a new era of cars,” says Warming. “It couldn’t be a generic shape. It couldn’t be just any car. It had to feel like a Rolls-Royce: the grille in the front, the Spirit of Ecstasy, long bonnet, beautiful roofline, large wheels, off to the races.”

Rolls-Royce Spectre is now available to order, pricing TBC; rollsroyce.com

Blancpain Just Unveiled A Special-Edition Fifty Fathoms For The Model’s 70th Anniversary

Blancpain just gave the first true dive watch a modern makeover for its 70th birthday.

The Swiss watchmaker launched the Fifty Fathoms in 1953 for underwater exploration. Although Panerai (and later Rolex) offered similar dive watches, the Fifty Fathoms was the first to feature a rotating, unidirectional bezel with a diving scale to time underwater jaunts. As a result, the timepiece was favoured by the Marines and other elite divers.

The new special edition, officially known as the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1, pairs signature elements from the 1950s with a few modern touches. The automatic timepiece sports a similar 42 mm case as the 1953 original, as well as a black dial with extra-large numerals and markings. It also sports a domed sapphire bezel insert with a luminous timing scale and a screw-down crown.

A front-facing view of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 timepiece.
A front-facing view of the timepiece.

Diving into Blancpain’s Calibre 1315 is where things get a bit more interesting. Launched in 2007, the self-winding movement is based on a three-barrel architecture that provides you with a five-day power reserve. Just like the Fifty Fathoms 50th Anniversary watch, the newcomer offers an impressive water resistance of up to 300 meters. It is also equipped with an oscillating platinum weight inscribed with “Fifty Fathoms 70th.” By no coincidence, platinum is also the traditional gift for the 70th wedding anniversary. To top it off, the watch is fitted with a black Nato YTT+ strap that was made from 100 percent recycled and recyclable thread from fishing nets found at sea.

The latest Blancpain anniversary watch also features an oscillating weight that bears the “Fifty Fathoms 70th” logo
The latest anniversary watch also features an oscillating weight that bears the “Fifty Fathoms 70th” logo.

As with the 50th anniversary, Blancpain has opted for a three-series release strategy. Fittingly, a total of 70 watches will be offered to collectors. The Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 will be available exclusively at Blancpain this month.

A Luxury Journey Through The Galapagos

“I can’t say again how lucky you are to be experiencing this alone.”

Notable words from Yvonne, given she’s spent the last 30-odd years as a guide in the Galápagos Islands and knows just how crowded it can get, especially from around mid-June to the beginning of September when tourist-filled ships and day boats descend on the islands.

Now one of two naturalist guides for Aqua Mare, the fifth vessel to join the Aqua Expeditions fleet, she takes personal responsibility for upholding the brand’s reputation to provide  intimate tailormade excursions that venture into remote destinations, away from the crowds.

The first true superyacht in the Galápagos Islands, the launch of the 50-metre Aqua Mare is a sort of homecoming for the company’s CEO and Founder, Francesco Galli Zugaro, whose professional career in luxury travel began in Ecuador. Since then, he’s expanded the Aqua fleet from its Amazonian beginnings to now include ships that ply the Mekong River and the waters around Indonesia.
Like her sisters, Aqua Mare is a beauty to look upon. Previously privately owned, the yacht’s decisively slick exterior sets the tone for lavish interiors that have now been overhauled and streamlined by the Aqua team to feature the yacht’s original Italian walnut veneer wall panels, plush Jim Thompson fabrics and luxuriously thick cream carpets underfoot.

 

Like all of the Aqua vessels, there is also a strong attention to detail — in the living room, a carefully curated book collection, which focuses on the wildlife and history of the Galápagos, is organised and displayed in gradient shades of blue and bespoke tableware from Bali-based ceramic brand, Gaya features details like beautiful endemic plant species along with the numbers 1835, the year Charles Darwin visited the islands.

Unfolding over four decks, there are just seven cabins – including a sprawling 80sqm Owner’s Suite and a room smartly configured with bunk beds – each with ensuite bathrooms, some with Jacuzzi showers. There are indoor and outdoor dining areas, a series of shaded and open sundecks, a six-person hot tub, a barbecue area which is also used as an early morning workout zone, and a lower-level beach club perfect for kids to hang out in. Holding centre stage on deck three is a plush book-filled lounge and bar anchored by a large comfy u-shaped sofa, perfect for having a nap or for socialising and watching movies.

This all comes together as a cosy and intimate base for a schedule of daily morning and afternoon excursions, meaning guests can rest and enjoy the yacht in between. The seven-day itineraries follow one of two Galápagos circuits, which either head east towards the islands of Santa Fe, San Cristobal and Española, or west, covering the seahorse-shaped Isabela, the largest island in the archipelago and the wildlife-strewn Fernandina.

The excursions are tailored to each destination, ranging from gentle ambles along desolate seaweed-carpeted sandy beaches scattered with sea turtle trails, to relaxing zodiac cruises through dense mangrove forests teeming with birdlife. Water activities include daily snorkelling sessions and kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding amid swooping pelicans and frolicking sea lions.

Comprising around 18 major islands, about 950 kilometres off the coast of Ecuador, the Galápagos’ most famous visitor, Charles Darwin, spent 19 days studying the islands’ flora and fauna in 1835. Since then, thanks to its unique volcanic landscape with its distinct lava formations, alongside its magical collection of endemic species like the marine and land iguanas, the flightless cormorant, and the Galápagos tortoise, the islands became Ecuador’s first national park in 1959, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in1979.

Surprisingly, these giant tortoises, probably the Galápagos’ most famous residents, are mostly not seen in the wild. Their once 250,000-strong population went into serious decline – a consequence of a hunting spree by pirates, whalers and traders between the 17th and 19th centuries – with only about 15,000 remaining in the wild today.

Santa Cruz, the Galápagos’ most populated island, is home to the Charles Darwin Research Station where you can view these gentle giants in captivity, but the best place to see them roaming in their natural habitat is in the island’s highlands at farms like the family-run Rancho el Manzanillo.

Along the western itinerary, Fernandina, the youngest and westernmost island in the archipelago is the most volcanically active and sits at the hotspot that created the Galápagos Islands. Almost like a live David Attenborough show, the rippling lava landscape – punctuated with yellow lava cacti – is a lively burst of endemic wildlife including a mess of thousands upon thousands of sunbathing marine iguanas, the highest population density for the animal. A walk along Punta Espinoza, on the northeastern tip of the island will take you past slithering racer snakes chasing after baby iguanas and lava lizards, mewling baby sea lions, flightless cormorants, circling Galápagos hawks overhead, blue-footed boobies, and bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs- both of which make a wonderful contrast to the gently rippling grey lava landscape.

A wander along the Mars-like red-sand stretch of beach on Isla Rabida, a postage stamp of land to the east of Isabela, will take you past a resident colony of several hundred snoozing sea lions, and inland to a brackish pool filled with bright pink flamingos feeding on shrimp. A top spot for birdwatching, keen ornithologists can expect to see nesting brown pelicans, Galápagos hawks and doves, and the bizarre blue-footed boobies. It is also the only site where all of the nine different species of Darwin’s finches can be found.

Back on board, following a late morning snorkelling session, the afternoons are spent soaking in the hot tub, watching a film, or snoozing off lunch in your cabin or on one of the sun loungers as frigate birds soar overhead, taking advantage of the yacht’s upward air currents. In the evenings, over an excellent cocktail or a preprandial glass of wine – the house red and white is included in each stay – guides debrief guests on the day’s events and run through the next day’s itinerary. Following that, supper – like all meals – is served family style, either at groups of tables in the indoor dining room downstairs, upstairs on the outdoor deck around one large table or at the top by the barbecue. The food, a collaboration with Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, the chef behind the Amazonian-inspired menus on board Aria Amazon and Aqua Nera, features mostly Japanese-Peruvian inspired dishes  like tuna crudo, barbecued plantains, and fresh shrimp ceviche, or Galapagueña lobster lettuce wraps with acevichada dressing. Futher, and in staying true to its personal service, anything goes on Aqua Mare and so opting to eat a burger for dinner every day is also not out of the question.

While boarding an intimate yacht with a group of strangers might not be everyone’s cup of tea – and know exclusive charter, which includes a private masseuse five hours a day, is available – as days pass all onboard become acquainted. As Yvonne notes, “more often than not, guests bond over the shared experience of being in the magical Galápagos Islands, and depart the yacht having made new friends.”

Seven night itineraries (including all meals and beverages – non-alcoholic, premium wines, and beer – and local transfer to/from recommended flights) from approx. $13,800. Exclusive seven night charter (for up to 16 passengers) from approx. $286,300; aquaexpeditions.com

Why Lamborghini Is Going Green – And Leading The Way

The Emilia-Romagna region in the north of Italy, which includes Bologna, Modena, Parma, Maranello, and where our story comes from today, Sant’Agata Bolognese, is not lacking in myth or history.

It’s home to Italy’s finest exports and hallowed ground for those seeking the sensory. Here, history pushes innovation and myth perpetuates it.

Although not as oft-quoted as his Maranello rival, Ferruccio Lamborghini — entrepreneur, winemaker, engineer and tractor-maker-turned-supercar legend—truly embodied the region.

Rivalry aside, the story most telling about Lamborghini himself was that he never planned on getting into sports cars at all, “But I knew a better car could be built,” he famously said.

Urus SUV
outside Lambo HQ, Sant’Agata.

This forward-thinking mindset framed by betterment has been guiding Sant’Agata ever since. Lamborghini has survived several hardships, including a drop of almost 50 per cent post-GFC sales. As that headline went worldwide, CEO Stephan Winkelmann was busily navigating the storm, future-proofing from all angles.

This not only led to the creation of the company’s highly successful life raft, the Urus, but in 2009, saw new environmental solutions implemented – Lamborghini becoming the first Italian automotive company to earn European and international green certifications. By 2015, it had achieved carbon neutrality.

The factory paint shop can make any colour the customer wants.

One could argue that a Lamborghini, by nature, is a greener car to own. Less than 10,000 are built annually, the average mileage is low and each is held as a work of art that rarely falls to scrap. In fact, according to the marque, 80 per cent of Lamborghini vehicles produced in the past 59 years still exist today. Still, it’s an argument the CEO wants his customers, nor Lamborghini, to lean on.

“We have a social responsibility,” Winkelmann tells Robb Report. “So no matter how big or small you are, you must do your part. On top of that, we are fulfilling a dream.”

Winkelmann’s brand awareness is astute in that he agrees it not only matters what Lamborghini owners think of their car, but so do the opinions of their neighbours. Granted, that might be an uphill battle for the Raging Bull.

CEO Stephan Winkelmann alongside the Huracán Tecnica.

“The discussion about environmental issues is so emotional that you will never get to explain, ‘I’m just going a couple of 1000s of miles, and they’re only producing so many.’ The discussion is already over,” says Winkelmann.

“It’s about emotions. If you’re willing to play or be part of the game in the future, you cannot find excuses. And no legislation or political loopholes, just because you have the money to do so. This is something we want to avoid.”

Creating an electrified supercar—which the marue will do by the end of the decade via a range of hybridised models, starting with the Aventador replacement —and calling it a day is not an option if the brand wants to retain poster car status for the next generation.
“Our name is bigger than our footprint. Therefore, it’s also important every customer continues to be proud of what we’re doing.”

Future Lamborghini pride will come from a strategy that includes a 50 per cent emissions reduction by 2025 and 100 per cent by 2035 and a boastful $2.7 billion of investment made in the next four years alone. Despite being on track, Winkelmann admits the journey from here is one of the hardest in the OEM’s history. So how is Lamborghini doing it?

The pursuit of tangible and quantifiable emissions reduction started at a hyperlocal level via a holistic, 360-degree philosophy that forced the factory to re-consider its output end-to-end. The local approach has led to increasing R&D in technical and composite materials (which includes a collaboration with NASA), alternate energy solutions and work with local businesses, scientists and social enterprises.

For example, two circularity projects now look at new ways of repurposing carbon fibre and interior leather offcuts in both vehicle and non-automotive branded products (such as small leather goods). The exploration of alternate energy, such as biomethane—a gas produced from the fermentation of agricultural wastage—has helped with energy needs. Biogas is utilised for heating and cooling through a partnership with a nearby plant, which directs thermal energy into a closed loop of water sent underground to the factory for internal heating. A new biogas plant is in development and will power 65 per cent of the site’s gas needs —a notable and timely shift from natural gas.

Carbon fibre recyling process in action.

Elsewhere,a rethinking of logistics now sees parts and Urus shells arriving from Volkswagen in Zwickau, Germany, via rail instead of road. This lowered the journey’s CO2 emissions by 85 per cent and now has a transit time of just 48 hours.

Meeting the complexities of Lambroghini’s Ad Personam customisation program with green strategies required rethinking the traditional factory line paint shop. Hence, Lamborghini’s Urus paint shop is one of the few in the world that operates using a modular, vertical system which produces the super SUV by demand and can create any colour the customer desires. It’s also one of the most efficient, with a 30 per cent smaller footprint than paint shops of equivalent capacity.

The revolutionary verticalisation of the plant means the Urus’ journey is more like a snakes and ladders process, than a line, so no car is ever left idly waiting. The paints are 95 per cent water-based and magnetically charged, which minimises overspray in a remarkably effective way. Any drips are funnelled into a waste system made of cardboard cubes that are broken down and recycled and at least 15 per cent of the industrial water is also recirculated.

A post-burner technology recovers and reuses heat for the ovens, emissions from solvents are minimal, and a centralised thermal oxidation plant treats the discharged air —the building doesn’t even smell like paint, if you can believe it. Out-of-house initiatives include bio-science experiments at Lamborghini Park, a picturesque parkland area near the factory. Here, young oak forests, bio-rich wetlands and 13 beehives fuel research into reforestation and the impact of pollutants, industry and agriculture with the help of local and international researchers. For anything external, suppliers are rigorously vetted and will be in the future, too —including across electrification needs.

The brand produces sustainable small leather goods.

Visiting Sant’Agata at a time when high-powered, evocative and roaring V10 and V12 engines are at their technological peak, yet also in their twilight, comes with sadness. Winkelmann nods in agreemen: “For me, it is sad —I’m a car guy and an ICE guy,” he shrugs. “But legislation is putting it to an end if you like it or not. I look at the younger generations. I have a boy – he’s 22. He’s not interested in cars. But when he speaks, there is a background noise around the environment. If I speak to young kids, even if they are enthusiastic [about cars], there’s always this, and it will grow.”

Winkelmann pauses. “But even if it’s sad. I think there will be a moment when battery technology will be better than today’s internal combustion engines in terms of performance and weight. So there will be generations that will compare the cars differently.”

Will synthetic fuel save us? Winkelmann holds doubts about mass adoption.

“I am seeing it more, but it’s a moving target,” he says. “There will be less fuel available, maybe only synthetic fuel. And this will likely be more expensive. Maybe it will only relate to those cars in the hands of our customers, which will then be historical cars.”

When we meet, Winkelman is in the throes of launching the Raging Bull’s final ICE car, the Huracán Serrato, AKA, the safari Huracán. This off-roader will be launched at Art Basel in Miami and is a sentimental, inspired last hurrah.

“This is a car which is an off-road, super sports car. It’s something I have always wanted to do but we never had the opportunity. And, well, now we’re doing it.

“This car makes it very difficult [for others] to follow in our footsteps. It’s unexpected and therefore is exactly what we’re aiming for. We are an aspirational brand. And we are brave, and if you are brave enough, you do things that nobody else has done before. And this creates the unexpected.”

Aside from taking some of the environmental burden off Lamborghini’s customers’ shoulders, what will a Lamborghini of the future look like?

“It will have to always be very different from the cars of today, but always immediately recognisable,” the CEO says, somewhat coyly, adding that performance comes first – emotion runs third.

Although his beloved engines are no more, Ferruccio Lamborghini’s spirit lives on at Sant’Agata.

“I think it’s pretty clear now that we cannot, and we don’t want to step out or away from this social responsibility,” Winkelman reflects. “We must accept the challenge, look forward, and make something out of it. And this is the beauty of it. We can do something and do it even better than before.”

lamborghini.com

In Conversation: Reko Rennie

A punk, a rebel and a connoisseur, artist Reko Rennie discusses the power of perspective, expression of identity and why he thrashed a Rolls-Royce Corniche on Country.

While the contemporary art world may not be lacking in rebellion, intellect and chutzpah, few artists can lay claim to the centre of a Venn diagram merging all.

Reko Rennie is such a man. Except that this Kamilaroi/Gamilaraay/Gamilaroi artist also manages to throw cool, beauty and an unforgettable, haunting precision into the frame as well.
Rennie’s geometric patterns, abstract camouflage, words of remembrance, fierce warriors and neon designs inherited from his grandmother have found acclaim and achieved rightful cut through – beamed across the Sydney Opera House’s sails, laid on a basketball court in Melbourne, hung in the sky in Sydney, flanking the starting line (and Daniel Ricciardo’s helmet) at the Melbourne Grand Prix and found in almost every state gallery collection in the country.

With a diverse output that explores his identity as an Aboriginal man, dismantles and questions the status quo and shines a bright light on Australia’s dark history for future betterment, Rennie is carving his neon-hued mark on culture with a razor-sharp edge.

You grew up in the inner-west Melbourne suburb of Footscray in the 70s and 80s, at a time when a lot of activism was taking place —unionism, Aboriginal land rights, feminism and significant political change. How did this steer you towards being an artist?  

I got into art by doing graffiti. That was my thing; I got great joy out of writing my name in places illegally. Footscray was a very working-class, multicultural community, and a bunch of us didn’t have much. You saw how others were treated by law and police, and I always had a bit of a strained relationship with their attitudes towards me, as a young Aboriginal kid. All those things make you question the system.

What also resonated with me was the political art movement of the time that was responding to everything going on and it was crudely being illustrated with a can of paint and a brush. I started seeing a lot of that around Melbourne and thought, ‘How cool is it that people are writing shit on the walls, writing comments and statements? I want to do that.’It gave me all these early skills in navigating how to express myself. Those were fundamentally important aspects of childhood and rebelling against the system; skills and experiences that I could then combine with my identity and my family’s narrative and use as fire to create a political and visual artistic language.

Rennie’s vibrant paintings at Station Gallery, Melbourne

It makes sense considering much of your work today relates to memory, identity and remembrance of who came before, not unlike how graffiti can say, I was here, and you cant take that away from me.

That’s right — remember me. Remember the history of this country. We’re a multicultural, multifaceted, unique community of various language groups and artistic practices representing the oldest continuing living culture in the world. Our identity has been dumbed down so much by Western European ideologies, but all that’s changing. Our generation is now seeing all these beautifully vocal and empowered communities speak out because there’s so much to unpack here in this country. That’s why it’s important to acknowledge the past and present, move into the future, and be empowered to do so.

Is it hard to walk the line of communicating the ancient importance of Aboriginal culture and history with that of what it means to be an Aboriginal man in todays society?

It can be problematic. But you realise you’re contributing to something much bigger, a message that can raise awareness, inform through art, or share a particular message, and there’s beauty in that. I was once a journalist and I thought I’d be able to empower and change how Aboriginal people were portrayed in mass media; obviously so naive and powerless in that mainstream media world. But through art I’ve had this amazing voice where I could share work, opinions, and expressions of form and identity around the world. It’s a really beautiful thing, and it evolves. That’s what drives me.

Remember Me text installation at Sydney’s Carriageworks; Totemic, also at Station Gallery.

Youve risen and risen in the art world. Whats that experience been like? 

It’s funny, weirdly, because in this country, it’s tough to break into art. There are so many gatekeepers and so much bullshit nepotism —and it really is a jingoistic kind of nepotism. So that frustrated me. I had a few people say, ‘You can do this, you can’t do that’; ‘You’ve got to do this and not that … when someone tells me I can’t do something or is negative about my work, it fuels me more to prove them wrong.

Remember Me
text installation at Sydney’s Carriageworks; Totemic, also at Station Gallery.

Was there a ‘breakthrough moment’?

I went to Paris and did a residency [at Cite Internationale des Artes in 2009], and for some reason, that legitimised my career as an artist here —it was that thing of, ‘oh, he’s gone to Paris. I had won a couple of awards, held shows, but then, ABC did a story on me over there, and it blew up. In those early days, I couldn’t afford art magazines —I used to go to the NGV, have a coffee, take a little notebook, and go through the magazines and write down all the up-and-coming curators. Using my journalistic research skills, I would send out 40-50 emails a week, and every now and then, I’d get a hit, and get invited to do a project overseas. And I’d pay for it all myself, take out a credit card and invest in myself, and that’s what paid off for me: doing things overseas. What then happened back here, galleries and institutions started to take notice of me. It was pretty interesting.

Youve got a future residency at the American Academy Rome. How would you describe the  international attitude to contemporary Aboriginal art right now?  

People are really interested and the work is always well-received. I think when you’re talking about loss of identity, land, culture and language; or persecution of identity and cross-generational trauma, it’s a very relatable story. Because at some point in history, people have had that experience as well. So it’s an unfortunately common narrative around the world, and that’s where we can share a bond and a connection.

The shared global sadness of displacement and memory is increasingly relevant. How do you explore themes like this in your process and work? 

Thinking about loss and memory and creating work from that is really multilayered. My video work with the Rolls-Royce [OA_RR, 2017] talks about my grandmother’s experience of being eight years old and taken from her family, made to be a slave, working for rations on a pastoral station where there was systematic abuse by pastoralists. People don’t talk about that. That’s why I made that Rolls work. I was reclaiming that symbol of colonial power, wealth and royalty. Those who drove those cars would have Aboriginal people removed from their families as slaves, and then they’d drive to church on Sunday and be absolved of their sins. And this was systemic in Australia, not just in one geographic location. So going back to an ex-pastoral station, taking a cool, ’73 Rolls-Royce Corniche on Country painted in a geometric camouflage, with line work and symbolism that comes from my family area [Kamilaroi] and which I designed to talk to the fact our people had to conceal who they were, it was a declaration of identity. I was saying, ‘I’m proud of who I am and where I come from and all of those who came before me. It’s my right to show and declare that. I don’t want to blend in.’ So we shot it, did some burnouts, and took all the notions of my misspent youth driving cars in the west and put those skills to work, which I did.

Thats not the only work to feature you in a hotted-up car. 2021’s follow-up Initiation_OA sees you cruising around your old stomping ground in a Holden Monaro, another strong white Australia symbol, albeit with an Aboriginal name. Where’d this love of cars come from?

I’m really attracted to the design aspects of a car and I love classics. At the moment, I only have a three-litre, Australian-delivered Porsche ’77 Targa and a Cayenne GTS, which is my studio car, but I’ve had Alfas, Valiants, Hondas, and lots of different cars, as well as bikes over the years.
I’m actually looking for another thing to paint, maybe a Porsche? But heavy car culture was something I grew up with. There was this whole thing about hotting up cars —old Monaros, Commodore VH SLEs, Alfa Romeos, V8 Interceptors —and a lot of pride and community existed around customising cars. But they were also a symbol of success and aspiration, and there was a weird symbology related to the car too.

Painted Rolls- Royce challenges colonialism in the Outback.

Growing up in the west was pretty wild and heavy in trauma from seeing a lot of things, and it was a certain type of person who drove a Monaro. There is a lot of toxic masculinity associated with those cars as well. I wanted to reclaim all that with a pink, sparkly car and go through these urban landscapes, where I was taught a lot of lessons; that was my form of initiation. And yes, I wanted to reclaim the name, too. That’s why I picked it.

Hotted-up, pink Holden Monaro questions toxic masculinity.

On reclaiming space and looking back to your early days as a graffiti artist, how does it feel now to see your work in almost as many public spaces as institutions built on colonial ideals?  

It also comes back to growing up doing stuff out on the street—it’s free for everyone to see. A lot of the work I do, at times, goes into a gallery or an institution, and there’s a particular clientele that sees it. I grew up poor, in a working-class environment and many can relate to that. So I want my art to be seen by people from all aspects of society, not just the wealthy. But it’s also important that in a public environment, too, you have the freedom to say and do things with space and form. That’s an important aspect of having a voice. With the projection on the Opera House, they wanted all this nice, easy stuff, and I did a really powerful symbolic statement of the warrior. That didn’t go down too well. Luckily, I had a few people fight for me, and it went ahead as this proud declaration of identity and history. I think public spaces are great for making those statements, and I love to do that. But also, because in the past, our people were denied the opportunity to contribute to wider society, it’s crucial to occupy those spaces, be vocal and be present. I’ve had people say to me, ‘don’t dream so big’, and I just think, ‘why the fuck not? Who are you to stop me?’ We have to be present in all aspects of society because we were denied so much in the past.

rekorennie.com 

A ‘Very Sporty’ Porsche 911 Hybrid Is Coming Soon, CEO Says

Porsche is serious about electrifying its entire lineup—even its most iconic model, the 911.

The German marque’s CEO, Oliver Blume reconfirmed that a hybrid version of the famous sports car is on the way in a recent interview with Car magazine. Don’t expect an all-electric variant to follow soon after, though. Porsche wants to keep an internal combustion engine in the 911 for the foreseeable future.

During his conversation with the British publication, Blume said the brand plans to “add a very sporty hybridisation to the 911 [lineup].” The executive didn’t go into any more detail, but Motor1.com reports that the electrified variant—which we’ve seen undergoing testing at the Nürburgring—won’t be a plug-in hybrid because it would add too much weight to the vehicle. Instead, it will use self-charging technology adapted from the brand’s Le Mans-winning 919 endurance car.

Blume also told Car that the 911 “will be the model which we will drive as long as we can with a combustion engine.” This statement comes just weeks after Porsche announced that it had begun producing a nearly carbon-neutral synthetic fuel in Chile and was testing it out in the 911.

A battery-powered variant may not be on the horizon, but it does feel like an inevitability at this point. Blume said Porsche’s “aim” is to eventually offer internal combustion, hybrid and electric options for each of its model segments, including two-door sports cars, four-door limousines and SUVs.

“We have a clear strategy driving the ramp-up of electrification during the next few years, with the goal of delivering over 80 percent fully electric by 2030,” Blume told the magazine. “It is a very strong ramp-up curve.”

While Blume didn’t announce a timetable for the 911 hybrid, you won’t have to wait long to start seeing the results of the brand’s electrification push. An all-electric Macan should debut later this year, with a battery-powered 718 expected to follow in 2025.

Modern Australian

There’s only one thing that designer Richard Jarman can’t do without.
“Sandals,” he offers, after a few moments of thought. “It has to be sandals. To be honest, I wear them right through winter – they’re my go-to, I guess, the staple when everything else changes.”

His answer may surprise some. But the simple urbanity that the footwear represents elegantly sums up the philosophy that drives Commas, the Australian-made menswear brand founded by Jarman in 2017; now one of Australia’s premium sartorial exports stocked in some equally premium retailers that includes SSense, MatchesFashion, and, most recently, Harrods in London.

A refined sense of style while still playfully alla moda, sandals are the footwear of leisure. And leisure, or holidaying, is what Commas is all about. Or to be more precise, it’s the feeling that taking a holiday, even if it’s just a weekend getaway, can generate – that sense of freedom; the calmness that washes over as you step out into the sun in a remote port.
As the brand name suggests, Commas is that pause between one moment and the next.

Commas founder Richard Jarman started the label in 2017.

Best known for their unstructured silhouettes and a utilitarian approach to luxury, Commas has offered a different perspective to what’s usually associated with ‘Australian menswear’. No exaggerated ruggedness or overly deconstructed detailing. No trend-oriented capsules. Instead, a clothing defined by fluid lightness highlighted by its use of natural materials – Italian linens, cotton, silks. Fits focus on drape, allowing the body to move freely while colour palettes remain restrained. It’s a simplicity in design that has also made it as popular among women as it has men.
What originally started out as a collection of perfectly crafted swimwear including boardshorts, Commas has evolved into a well-rounded, fully-realised resort wear wardrobe crafted to create a sense of evergreen downtime.

“When we began to tease in ready-to-wear, people just got so excited,” says Jarman, 36. “So we thought, this makes so much sense to keep developing this.”

Dressed in head-to-toe black linen from the brand’s most recent collection (and his ubiquitous sandals) Jarman is a walking endorsement of the label’s meditative concept. Perennially tanned from a lifetime spent in the water – “We [wife and business partner, Emma] swim all year round” – and with a soft way of speaking that’s considered, thoughtful even, Jarman is a far cry from the frenetic energy usually found within those who work in the fashion industry.

This could be because he didn’t start out in fashion. Hailing from Sydney’s southern beaches, Jarman was studying economics and was on the pathway to attaining a masters in property development before he decided to take the plunge and design a line of boardshorts and swimwear. While Jarman would continue to juggle both careers for a few years, growing demand for the product placed him at a crossroads.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Handpainted art on oversize silk shirt

“I continued working full time after finishing my masters and I worked in the economics industry for overall 10 years,” he explains. After he landed the Matches account, things started to pick up pace.

“[Matches] advised me that the collection was selling out and that they would like to place another order on that same collection. After that, I tried to juggle both jobs for a while but as Commas continued to grow with more accounts and larger orders it became obvious that a decision needed to be made.”

Even after diving into head on into the industry, Jarman’s managed to retain a relative distance from its ebbs and flows — instead focused on creating a brand that’s remained true to its original vision. In the space of just five years, Commas has undergone an acute refinement of purpose and aesthetic.

“For me as a designer and maturing personally, swimwear was a big challenge to start with, not coming from fashion. And then once we ought to handle that and we’d set up manufacturing – in terms of design, I felt like I was growing and wanted to do more.”

The brand’s first major break into the global market came when Jarman was selected to take part in an Australian contingent selected by Woolmark to attend the twice-yearly trade (and peacocking) show Pitti Uomo. It was here that the brand was snapped up by online luxury etailer MatchesFashion.

The second gateway into fast tracking their success came courtesy of a certain C-word – COVID. The decision to have Commas made locally meant avoiding global factory closures and freight delays, garments ready to go when international buyers came calling.

“There were some stockists that were on the fence with us, like SSense. We’d met with them a little bit earlier but it didn’t seem like an order was coming through then suddenly they were like, ‘Hey, we’ve just had a meeting and if you have stock, we need it tomorrow’. And we simply said ‘yep, cool… It was a matter of perfect timing.”

Timing, so too a case of intuitively understanding menswear’s changes. The familiar codes that marked the sector – structured tailoring built on corporate formality – was falling out of favour, replaced by more fluid modes of dressing that were adaptable and, most importantly, more comfortable.

Each collection from Commas is a continuation of the last, traversing the various silhouettes of relaxed styling. From the shirting, trousers and lounge shorts to robes and outerwear – fits are loose, cuts are oversized. Handmade knitwear, a collaboration with the legendary John Macarthur of Purl Harbour and done in his studio in Bondi, is chunky and highly breathable to be suited to even Sydney’s thick humidity.

“[Macarthur] works with these incredible Italian cottons that are super breathable – they’re perfect.”

The brand also walks fashion’s more recent path of ‘modern luxury’.

“I think the lens in which we view luxury has changed a lot,” explains Jarman. “I think right down to things like the way people holiday — seeking freedom and then disconnecting.”

The latest collection is the most directional for the brand. Hand painted art, a mix of Etruscan-esque and modern still life, adorn silk shirts while knit polos seamlessly blend the functional with formal. There’s also a debut Commas suit — done in a very COMMAS way. Available in a neutral cream or dark chocolate, the double-breasted linen jacket and trousers swap the rigidity of formal tailoring’s for a more organic fit.

“We went to a destination wedding in Bali before the lockdowns and I remember being there and being in a fully lined suit, just thinking, ‘this will not be part of my holiday wardrobe ever again’ — I was sweating profusely. So this style of suiting was a by-product of that.”

Much like the expansion from boardshorts into ready-to-wear, Jarman explains this as a natural progression for the brand — transforming one of menswear’s cornerstones into something more (ahem) suitable to wear poolside at a chosen resort.

“Soft tailoring makes a lot of sense for us. I think in terms of corporate suiting, I don’t ever see that being part of our wardrobe, but I think it’s really just playing into what you see is missing from the holiday wardrobe and designing into that.”

commas.cc

Life On The Road

To any motoring-minded observer, 32-year-old photographer Stephan Bauer is living every car enthusiast’s dream life – one that largely consists of travelling to exotic locations to take stunning pictures of even more exotic vehicles.
Robb Report caught up with Bauer on the eve of yet another international car week to see if the reality matches the dream. Spoiler alert: it does … and then some.

Robb Report: Let’s start at the beginning — how did you first get into automotive photography?
Stephan Bauer: My first job was working in Detroit as an art director. But Europe was on my mind, and is definitely home to the cars I like working with. So I moved to Germany, and the goal was always to quit working and go full-time into photography.
It was one of those things where you keep waiting for the perfect moment, but that moment never comes. So in 2016 I set myself a 12-month deadline to quit my job, whether I thought I had enough photography clients or not. I knew if I tried and failed it would be ok, but to never try was something I’d always regret. The first two years were an absolute disaster. But I pushed on and turned it around, and I’ve been a professional photographer ever since.

Porsche 550 Spyder (1953-56)

Which passion came first, cars or photography?
Definitely cars. I’ve been car crazy since I was a little kid, and then as a teenager I started getting interested in photography. I realised bringing those two worlds together was my entry into working in the automotive industry and it kind of snowballed from there. I love classic cars, that’s the stuff I gravitate toward, and that I really have a passion for. So high-end classic cars and high-end modern cars — anything in the higher bracket of the market — is the niche I work in and most of it came from me doing private work with the owners of some of these vehicles.

Not many people get to work in a field they truly love every day. It must feel great?
It’s a crazy lifestyle and sometimes the travel is too much and it all catches up with me. But I feel so fortunate that I’m able to make a living from working in my dream job, and that I get paid to spend time with the cars I’ve loved since I was three years old.

There must be some challenges, though?
The travel definitely puts strain on your relationships – it’s not easy, that’s for sure. I’m away for around half the year on average, and it can be very difficult for people to understand that lifestyle.

How do you maintain the inspiration?
It’s not really the cars, but what I can do with them that inspires me. It doesn’t matter if it’s the most collectible, or most valuable, vehicle in the world — if I can’t do something special in the photography then it feels wasted. So that’s the inspiration to evolve as a photographer.

You do more travel than your average spy — do you have a home base or would you be in it too infrequently to bother?
Well, I was born in Vienna, Austria. I grew up mostly between the USA and Canada. Right now I’m living in Munich, Germany, and spending my winters in Cape Town, South Africa. There’s not much happening in Europe over winter, so I started spending my winters there to have some warm weather and to shoot some crazy cars.

Aston Martin Bulldog (1979)

Your portfolio is overflowing with amazing cars and experiences, but is there one project that really stands out?
We did a road-trip for a TV show called The Drive in 2017, which was a race across Iceland with a McLaren 570 GT and a Ford F-150 Raptor. So the Raptor would go straight through Iceland off-road, and the McLaren would take the loop road around the county. Even getting there was a crazy adventure – we drove from Germany to Denmark, took a two-day ferry to Iceland, then drove them through to Reykjavik. Those cars were like UFOs over there, it was insane.

stephan-bauer.squarespace.com

In The Swim

You launched DGW swimwear and the new Poolside Collection ahead of the UK—indeed Europe’s—greatest summer. Can we add meteorologist and soothsayer to the already heady CV?

Oh, go on then! Travel had to come back at some point and as with all things timing is everything. That said, it’s a category I’ve had success in before so I know the market well, and alongside our best-in-class tees, Poolside has turned out to be one of the most popular categories we’ve launched, so we’ve made it an all-year-round collection —for your summers as well as ours.

Righto—why’s your swimwear the best?

I believe there are five basic rules that men should follow for swimwear, all of which have been applied to the design of David Gandy Wellwear swim shorts:

  1. Length does matter! The ideal length would show most of your thigh—think cheeky without being indecent. My personal preference is a short short, which is by far the most flattering on your legs and eliminates awkward tan lines.
  2. Room to move. Whether you’re into water sports or sunbathing, comfort needs to be front of mind while keeping an eye on style. If you can’t move in them don’t buy them.
  3. Sustainability should be one of our first considerations. Rather than swim shorts that used recycled materials, look for enhanced biodegradability—meaning that many years down the line when you’re refreshing your swim shorts, the existing ones biodegrade within a couple of years, as opposed to other fabrics that can take tens or hundreds of years.
  4. For fastenings go for the classic drawstring. They’re more forgiving on the waistline after a big lunch.
  5. Keep the colour plain. It’s timeless and can be easily styled when you’re leaving the beach at the end of the day.

The new Poolside Collection is more than just swimmers. You’re planting a flag for the return of towelling too.

I never wanted David Gandy Wellwear’s Poolside Collection to be swim shorts only, as the whole concept behind the brand is an all-day wardrobe. I see towelling as an elegant answer to resort wear for men, either as a sweatshirt to dress down or a collared polo if you’re wanting something a bit smarter.

What prompted you to launch David Gandy Wellwear?

Starting my own brand is something that’s been in my head for over a decade and is one of the final things I’ve really wanted to ‘conquer’ in the fashion industry … I’ve been on the go non-stop for the past couple of decades, but the pandemic presented a lifestyle change for me—as it did for everyone—and for the first time in forever I slowed down and stayed in one place. One of my great friends had just started a branding agency so together we had the time and collective skill set to bring Wellwear to life.

Favourite thing to do in summer?

Either taking my daughters to Greece and watching them explore the beaches, discover a new cuisine and learn to swim. Or one of those long rosé-fuelled lunches with friends where suddenly it’s midnight and you’re all still sitting in the garden.

Be honest, did you get sick of the wealth of Aussies in Greece this year?

Never! There is something about life that Aussie guys just get so right, in terms of the laid-back attitude and their effortless style. So the more Aussies, the better—wherever I am. It’s just a shame you’re lacking on the cricket and rugby fields these days …

davidgandywellwear.com

Six For Summer

GRAND SEIKO SBGJ269 GMT (AUSTRALIAN EDITION)

This Australian exclusive from the Japanese watchmaker honours the resilience of nature in a limited-edition GMT directly inspired by the pink flannel flower. You’ll notice this design aesthetic is harmonious; it just works. From the uniquely textured dial that mimics the lovely pinks found in the blossoming flannel flower, to the easy- wearing 39.5 mm stainless steel case, there’s plenty to like in the SBGJ269 GMT. Thanks to its Hi-Beat 36000 GMT calibre 9S86, expect 55 hours of power reserve—plenty of action for all your summer escapades.

IWC TOP GUN LAKE TAHOE EDITION

Earlier this year, IWC Schaffhausen released its highly anticipated “Top Gun” collection to wide-received approval at the Watches & Wonders convention in Geneva. But sitting pretty among the stealthy lineup of pilot-approved timepieces was the all-new Top Gun Lake Tahoe edition. As you might have guessed, the special-edition timepiece is inspired by “Lake Tahoe” and by the white uniforms of the US Navy. The muted white ceramic case and strap make for a striking combination for the summer season and beyond.

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER ’57 (BURGUNDY)

One of the nicest iterations of the classic Omega Speedmaster in some time, the new Speedmaster ’57 pays homage to the revolutionary watch that was first launched in 1957. The first thing you notice about this Speedy is its rich burgundy dial—a stunning addition that slightly modernises this very vintage-heavy timepiece. Of course, the
’57 features all the hallmarks of the classic Speedy, like the “Broad Arrow” hands and brushed bezel with a tachymeter scale. On the back of this new model, you’ll find an engraved “Speedmaster ’57”.

HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION AEROFUSION CHRONOGRAPH CERAMIC BLUE IBIZA

The past summer in Europe was a time to celebrate the return to normalcy after two long years of Covid lockdowns. To mark the European warm months, Hublot launched three pop-up boutiques in three of Europe’s most beautiful coastal areas: Ibiza, Capri and St. Tropez. Our pick from the collection is the Classic Fusion Chronograph Boutique Ibiza. Adorned in a stunning ceramic navy blue, the skeletonised dial is a neat feature, with a “peace” sign at 3 o’clock.

BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE CHRONOGRAPHE FLYBACK (BLUE)

A modern update to the heritage Fifty Fathoms collection, this new Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback is, for the first time, available in red gold. Honouring the original reference from 1953, widely considered the first modern dive watch, this new timepiece from master watchmaker Blancpain is made for days on the water. Measuring in at 43 mm, it beautifully intertwines a red gold case, hands and hour markers with a blue sunburst dial and matching bracelet.

PIAGET POLO DATE

The new Polo Date by Piaget launched at this year’s Watches & Wonders exhibition, yet didn’t receive much noise when compared with the unveiling of the Altiplano. But the new Polo Date deserves its own special attention. Not only is this a fantastic iteration of an iconic watch, but the Piaget Polo is a “true watchmaker’s watch” thanks to its immaculate in-house movement—which is revealed on the sapphire crystal case back. And thanks to its new black rubber strap, it makes for the perfect companion for the summer season ahead.

10 Best Male Fragrances For Date Night, The Office And Everything In Between

They say it takes 10,000 hours of focused practice to master any skill. And when it comes to recommending fragrances to people, we hope that having sniffed a good 10,000 of these makes us somewhat of an authority on the topic. Prescribing a cologne to any one person comes with a lot of risks, starting with the investment in the product itself (upwards of $300 or even $1,200)—not to mention the fact that this scent needs to impress its intended audience (like a room full of colleagues, a spouse on the daily, or a first-impressions dinner date). And it also has to suit the demand of the wearer, whether it’s going to be used as a signature scent, a seasonal pick or an occasion-based fragrance. There’s a lot riding on this purchase, and no two people have the same variables in play. Thus, in making recommendations for the best cologne for men, we’ve got to really showcase the most universal favourites based on specific scenarios and needs. Below, we’re going to do exactly that.

 

Best Signature Scent

Krigler Palais Monarchie 218

Krigler Palais Monarchie 218
Krigler

A signature scent is something that becomes part of your personal style. It needs to suit you, but it also needs to work as well in your life as your favourite piece of tailoring, going from the office to the bar and back again with ease. You could deploy different scents for each of these scenarios, which we wholeheartedly endorse, but for the guy who wants something “close to centre” for all of these things—a balancing thread line, perhaps—we recommend something as layered and grounding as Krigler Palais Monarchie 218. This one is gourmand—meaning you can almost taste its flavours, which include vanilla, almond and tonka bean—while its other notes deliver a many-splendored finish with notes of spicy cinnamon, sweet pear, radiant musk, soothing patchouli and rousing amber. You contain multitudes, and so does this fragrance. Best of all, it’s so well rounded that you can wear it all year.

 

 


The Best Spring Cologne for Men

Richard James Aqva Aromatica Blade of Grass

 

Richard James Aqva Aromatica Blade of Grass
Richard James

In the spring, you want a cologne that feels like “in bloom” with the world around you. Something green that lifts the spirits— reminding you of sunnier days ahead. Richard James’ brilliant Blade of Grass scent is pretty on the nose with its name: Somehow, the blend of vetiver, green tea, fig tree and moss creates the essence of a freshly mown lawn. It’s as fresh and as spellbinding as a dewy April morning.

 


The Best Summer Cologne for Men

Etat Libre d’Orange Exit The King

 

Etat Libre d'Orange Exit The King
Etat Libre d’Orange

 

We all lighten up in in warmer weather, and your seasonal scent should be akin to that “Summer Fridays” feeling. Choose something floral and green: we prescribe Exit the King for this season, a scent that is “chypre” or cypress-like. It’s got moss, flowers and even soapy elements, but underneath all of that is a soothing patchouli, musky, sandalwood simmer. It’s perfect for a soothing summer.


The Best Autumn Cologne for Men

Le Labo Thé Matcha 26

Le Labo Thé Matcha 26

For the autumn, you want something that warms the recipient and wearer alike—an olfactive flannel shirt, let’s say—and woody scents often perform best, while also feeling appropriate for summer and spring alike. Thé Matcha is an instant classic from Le Labo, a subtle but sophisticated medley of matcha, fig, cedar, bitter orange and vetiver.

 

 


The Best Winter Cologne for Men

Arquiste Indigo Smoke

Arquiste Indigo Smoke

The best scents for winter will also feel hugely misplaced any other time of year, like a turtleneck or Christmas song in June. That’s because they warm the spirits with spicy or smoky notes, and for that reason they feel heavy on the senses. Take the exquisite Indigo Smoke, for example: it evokes the tradition of burning tea leaves in ancient China, with notes of black tea, incense, pine tar and guaiac wood. The result is hypnotic, and something that will feel polarizing come April—but from November through March, it’ll be hard to beat.

 


The Best Cologne for Professional Offices

Dior Sauvage Elixir

Dior Sauvage Elixir

Depending on your office—or your specific role in the office—you might need something that feels buttoned up and somewhat C-level. Still, you don’t want to intimidate with your fragrance, so it’s best to choose something that feels commanding but uplifting at the same time. Funny enough, these scents sometimes break seasonal conventions and, regardless of when you wear them, would otherwise be classified as autumn or winter scents—or even evening ones (while lacking the sensuality of a date-night scent, of course). Choose something like Dior’s Sauvage Elixir, a highly concentrated spin on its signature scent, which casts a spice-tinged radius of cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon and licorice. It gets gravity from vetiver, amber and patchouli, but owes its approachability to refreshing lavender and crisp grapefruit.


The Best Cologne for Creative Professionals

Costume National Scent Intense

Costume National Scent Intense

If you’re in a casual workplace (or if you’re a young guy lower on the totem pole), you may also want to cast a confident aura. Choose a shoulder-season scent that relies on amber-y and woody notes like Scent Intense from Costume National. It isn’t totally brooding: this scent is lightened by springy hibiscus and aromatic tea leaves. It’s a charismatic eau de parfum that’ll have people talking to you, not about you, and will have colleagues eager to sit beside you in meetings (so, be warned, you might have to sit through more meetings).

 


Best for Weekends

Parfums de Marly Galloway

Parfums de Marly Galloway

If you have a cologne for the office, then it suggests the existence of a scent you wear off the clock—one you embrace from Friday night through Sunday evening. So, choose a scent that pairs perfectly with the lack of screentime, bureaucracy and stress. We prescribe Galloway from Parfums de Marly for this, thanks to a powdery-fresh, iris-musk mix that opens with a spicy-crisp squeeze of citrus and pepper. It feels classic and timeless, like those weekend memories you’ll make. Nothing autopilot or “9-to-5” with this one.

 


Best for Date Night

Amouage Opus VII Reckless Leather

Amouage Opus VII Reckless Leather

Whether it’s a blind date or the evening when you plan to pop the question, you want to project a confident, rapturous radius on date night. It sets the mood, much like a candlelit dinner or a John Legend album. So pick a scent with intoxicating notes like leather, smoke, spice or amber—much like a winter scent, but with a definitively intimate lean. Allow us to strip down a class act like Amouage’s Opus VII Reckless Leather: This is a very alluring bottle. Whether you feel confident and relaxed going into date night or need a little extra something, well, it’s all in this leathery, resinous, spiced-up potion.

 


Best for Black-Tie

Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden A Gloaming Night

Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden A Gloaming Night

Your black tie scent should be a real top-shelf juice. It’s less sensual than a date-night pick, but as sexy as any cleaned-up gentleman can be. Gucci’s A Gloaming Night will turn heads on a variety of occasions (and is a worthy autumn-to-spring pick, if you wear the fanciest pants in your workplace). But when unleashed at a wedding, gala or fundraiser, this patchouli-vetiver-cinnamon scent is the Dom Pérignon of the olfactory game.