Robb Interview: Lionel a Marca, Breguet CEO

We sat down with CEO Lionel a Marca to discuss the new Type XX, and explore a manufacture that happily stands apart after nearly 250 years.

By Richard Clune 29/06/2023

Robb Report: History and heritage are key elements when speaking about Breguet’s longstanding excellence. Is it difficult to align such iconic brand components with a forward-looking, future-oriented strategy?

Lionel a Marca: This is a relevant and complex question. I think our great assets are our history and our expertise. The question we ask ourselves every time we start a new project is, ‘What would Abraham-Louis Breguet do today?’ Our mission is to perpetuate the history of this beautiful house while integrating the ‘innovation’ factor that is necessary to ensuring our founder’s heritage endures. Take for example our new perpetual calendar, Reference 7327: we wanted to create a dial design similar to those created by our founder and hence featuring the brand’s aesthetic codes, such as Breguet hands, an offset dial and extremely fine guilloché work. This watch is a perfect example of how we could easily have opted to take short cuts: we might have chosen a less-refined guilloché motif, which would save a lot of work time for the artisans and hence increase productivity. On the contrary, we went for a complex and extremely fine guilloché reflecting Breguet’s vision of excellence. We prefer to produce fewer timepieces, but be 100 percent proud of each one.

(r) Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet

Another term often used to talk about Breguet is savoir-faire. How do you personally define this term in relation to the brand?

Breguet’s expertise, in addition to that of our watchmakers, is linked to our artistic crafts. When Nicolas G. Hayek acquired the brand in 1999, he wanted to perpetuate what had been the essence of the brand since its creation. The guilloché, engraving and bevelling professions were no longer in fashion. He wished to invest in order to continue cultivating these skills that were verging on extinction. Today we continue writing this history and providing in-house training, for artisans who passionately handcraft each component. Nicolas G. Hayek was a visionary, because for us the term expertise not only refers to the professions relating to the finishing and assembly of our timepieces, but also the capacity for invention characterising our founder. For this reason, Nicolas G. Hayek also invested in the purchase of high-tech tools and in the R&D department. We strive daily to keep this expertise alive.

What are some of your key plans for the brand in 2023 and 2024?

As far as upcoming projects are concerned, I prefer to let you discover them as they are released—otherwise the surprise element would be missing… When it comes to what I’m especially excited about, I have to mention my core training, as I am basically a watchmaker. I have always enjoyed handling movements, understanding mechanisms, and drawing inspiration from the timepieces made by the brand over our almost 250-year history. I would thus say that what drives me most is product development: thinking about what’s next, working as a team to find ideas and solutions. I am lucky enough to know this job and therefore to understand the needs of a brand such as Breguet.

Breguet Type XX and Type 20

It’s here we need to discuss the return of the iconic Type XX. Why release it now, this piece that really has a robust and daily-wear spirit about it?

Whether we are talking about a watch or a collection, we release products once we are 100 percent satisfied with them. The movement of the new Type XX was entirely developed in our manufacture. It involved more than four years of work and the filing of several patents. We launched these timepieces simply because we were ready to do so. Moreover, a reinterpretation of this iconic collection had been eagerly awaited for several years and we are happy with the work done by the teams as well as with the highly positive feedback from our customers. Robustness is certainly what guided us in the development of this new calibre—and as for the “all-purpose” spirit of this model, I’ll let you judge for yourself.

For anyone who is not yet aware of its background, what does the Type XX represent for Breguet? And can you tell us more about the new and exciting Calibre 728?

The Type XX has been an emblematic brand collection for 70 years. This model was created according to specifications established by the French Air Force. Although Breguet did not have exclusive rights to it at the time, it quickly became one of the brand’s most iconic models. The new self-winding Calibre 728 powers the civilian version, while the military model is equipped with Calibre 7281. We wanted a robust and innovative movement. It does indeed feature all the characteristics of a modern chronograph: column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency and an innovative zero-resetting system. We naturally had to integrate the flyback function into both models, enabling zero-resetting and instant restarting of a new timing operation without losing track of the overall-time indication. Pressing the 2 o’clock pusher activates the timing, while the one at 4 o’clock zero-resets the chronograph and upon release ensures an immediate restart from zero for a new time measurement. This function is a precious asset for pilots, as three manoeuvres were previously required for the same purpose. Evaluating various durations and directions is thus easily done using the flyback function. Finally, its vertical clutch mechanism was chosen for its accurate activation, as the chronograph hand starts immediately without any initial jumps. As the devil is also in the details, we have also devoted particular care to the aesthetic appeal of the movement, and these two models feature sunburst and snailed patterns as well as circular graining and bevelling. Fans will also appreciate the blackened gold oscillating weight evoking the shape of an aircraft seen from the front and engraved with the Breguet logo.

Whether one likes them or not, watch fairs are a means of increasing brand awareness and sales. Can you explain why Breguet avoids large exhibitions such as Watches and Wonders? Does the fact that this fair’s program now enables the public to learn more about watch brands change your view of the show—and would you consider attending in future years?

We respect the existence of these events as well as those who wish to participate. However, after years of participating in Baselworld we have changed our strategy. We now prefer to enjoy a closer relationship with our markets by spending time in them. As mentioned earlier, our product development is a lengthy process and we prefer to launch our new products throughout the year, doing so when the time is right for us rather than based on a given trade fair’s calendar constraints in which we have no say. This is done through worldwide launches, collaborations (we are partners of the Frieze contemporary art fair) and roadshows. This approach involving regular travel to specific countries is more personalised and enables us to take time with our partners and to discuss the challenges each faces in terms of various market imperatives. We have noticed that this modus operandi is very popular, and we prefer to continue in this direction that more accurately reflects our current vision.

How does immediate product availability that can be used as a sales tool affect or hinder the brand?

We live in an age where people admittedly tend to want everything all at once. Our brand is not a trendy brand that releases a massive number of new models per year: such an attitude is not part of the company values, nor do our customers expect it. The scale of our manufacturing facilities, as well as the fact that all our components are hand-finished, would not permit us to increase our production quantities overnight. We do however attach great importance to being capable of satisfying our customers’ requests within a reasonable timeframe and this seems to be appreciated.

August marks two years for you as CEO of Breguet. What have been some of the most rewarding achievements, as well as the challenging lessons, during this time?

Two years have passed, in a fraction of a second. When I arrived, I realised that our production flow was not optimal and so one of my first tasks was to increase the smooth operation of our workshop processes. I think that we are now both more productive and more consistent. In terms of projects, I immersed myself in the archives and the history of the brand, which inspired me enormously. I am quite proud of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5365 which has “my touch”. It is on this timepiece that I introduced the very fine guilloché work (hand-engraving on a rose engine) done back in the day by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Otherwise, of course, I would say that for us the launch of the Type XX represents the culmination of a project that is both ambitious and essential to the brand. It is an honour for me to be serving as CEO of Breguet at the time of the relaunch of this iconic collection.

Where do you see the future of Breguet, both in the Australian market and at a global level?

Australia is a geographically large market and we want to engage more closely with our customers by developing our point-of-sale network across the country. After the Type XX, we are committed to another ambitious undertaking: the brand’s upcoming 250th anniversary. We have been working on it since I took office and our ambition is to pay tribute to our brand founder while focusing on future innovation.

breguet.com

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Thanks to Coravin, You Can Order the World’s Best Wines by the Glass

The Coravin World Wine Tour offers foodies exceptional wines by the glass at two Australian restaurants.

By Josh Bozin 15/05/2024

Before 2013, the idea of preserving (expensive) wine was a real issue for wine connoisseurs, professional and otherwise. That was until Greg Lambrecht stepped in.

To save exceptional wine from spoiling, the American inventor created the Coravin, a preservation and pouring device that extracts wine from the bottle without compromising its taste or pressure. In other words, if you wanted to enjoy a glass of that Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux you’ve been saving but don’t want to finish the entire bottle, you wouldn’t put a silver teaspoon in the bottleneck and hope for the best. You’d use a Coravin.

“It’s always been my dream to enable wine lovers to drink whatever they want, whenever they want, in the quantity that is right for that moment,” Lambrecht tells Robb Report. “Some nights, that may be just one or two glasses from an incredible bottle of wine or maybe treating yourself to a fine Champagne, and with Coravin you can do this without feeling the pressure to finish the bottle or risk of throwing wine away when it’s past its prime.”

Coravin changed the game and is arguably one of the best advancements in modern Oenology. It has become a mainstay in the wine and hospitality industry globally, with most top-end restaurants and sommeliers utilising of its many iterations to service varied worldly wines.

Today, 11 years later, Coravin celebrates its achievements in the wine industry with an official, inaugural Coravin World Wine Tour. Wine connoisseurs who dream of tasting some of the best wines from around the world at almost 50 percent below the standard price, take heed.

For the month of May, patrons can sample wines from a limited list expertly curated by Coravin. The list features local and international wines of recognition that rarely grace restaurant lists, let alone by-the-glass.

Bentley Restaurant in Sydney and Atria at The Ritz-Carlton Melbourne will be serving customers exceptional, high-profile wines by the glass using the innovative Coravin wine serving system until May 31st. If you fancy indulging in some of the world’s rarest wines, such as Champagne Salon ‘S’ Blanc de Blanc Brut 2013—which retails for $3,800 a bottle and will be served by the glass exclusively at Bentley—or scarcely available Australian wines such as Bass Phillip Pinot Noir 2021 and Bass Phillip Chardonnay 2021, this is your chance.

“A notable trend in the industry is many venues are starting to offer alternative pour sizes, to suit single diners or tables of two better. This is to ensure a more comprehensive wine experience at the venue, without needing to commit to a full bottle or wines that are not available in a half bottle format,” says Sean Lam, head sommelier at Atria.

“Coravin technology enhances the traditional wine-tasting experience and elevates the overall dining journey. At Atria, for example, we can offer side-by-side a Margaret River Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay and a Premier Cru Chablis, and all three wines are in peak condition.”

Christopher Tan, director at Bass Phillip, adds that it’s a privilege to contribute to Coravin’s first World Wine Tour. “We are talking about wines that would be the envy of any serious wine collection, so it’s outstanding to see these being served in restaurants, let alone by the glass.”

Atria Melbourne

In addition to Australia, the Coravin World Wine Tour will also run in the UK, Italy, and France. To experience this special Coravin first-hand, Sydneysiders can make a reservation at Bentley Restaurant + Bar and Melburnians at Atria at The Ritz-Carlton anytime this month.

For more information, visit Coravin.

 

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Painted Black

Dion Lee is teaming up with Cho Cho San for an Australian Fashion Week event.

By Horacio Silva 10/05/2024

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Nowhere more than in the fashion world. Despite the vagaries of taste, black remains the go-to colour of choice. Fitting, then, that for next week’s Australian Fashion Week, the perennially black-clad media darling Dion Lee has partnered with Pott’s Point Izakaya joint Cho Cho San on a black-themed late-night ramen bar.

Lee, based in New York and not showing in Sydney next week, has worked with the restaurant to create a menu inspired by his inky, haute-industrial aesthetic and favourite flavours.

As part of the signature offering ($50pp) guests are offered “Dion’s Martini” on arrival (his take on the classic vodka drink spiked with a black olive, natch), a Tokyo-style shoyu ramen with shitake mushrooms, smoked daikon and crunchy tempura shiso leaf, and a winning black sesame and cocoa soft-serve ice-cream replete with black cone. (Trust us, it tastes infinitely better than it sounds.)

Lee rarely strays outside his fashion lane, but a little blackbirdie tells us to expect an announcement soon about a major new collaboration. Let’s hope it involves black ice cream.

Cho Cho San x Dion Lee: Late Night Ramen Bar

Available from May 13-16, 5pm to late.

Signature set: $50pp includes Dion’s Martini, Tokyo Shoyu Ramen and Black Sesame Soft Serve.

To book click here

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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