For Pharrell Williams, The Future Of Louis Vuitton Is Pixellated

The consummate multi-hyphenate pulled out the stops with a star-studded show held on a bridge in Paris at sunset.

By Joelle Diderich 21/06/2023

Sunset on the Seine is for lovers, but on Tuesday, the magic hour was the backdrop for a spectacular show marking the beginning of the Pharrell Williams era at Louis Vuitton.

For his first outing as creative director of menswear at the world’s biggest luxury brand, the musician pulled out all the stops, inviting friends including Beyoncé, making a pit stop before the Hamburg leg of her “Renaissance World Tour”; newly minted Vuitton brand ambassador Zendaya, and Rihanna, who starred in a teaser campaign for the men’s show and arrived as the event was in full swing.

Among the dozens of celebrities in attendance were Pusha T, Timbaland, J Balvin, Anitta, Jared Leto, Kim Kardashian and Lenny Kravitz, justifying the hype leading up to the season’s most hotly anticipated show.

 

In line with the label’s recent runway outings, it was a multi-pronged evening of entertainment, culminating with a live performance by Jay-Z, who was joined by Williams onstage.

Guests arrived by boat to the French capital’s oldest bridge, which was decked out in a giant gold Damier pattern, signalling one of the key themes in a collection anchored in the historic codes of the brand.

In a preview with WWD, Williams said the location, at the foot of Vuitton’s Paris headquarters, was “a very clear demonstration of love and warmth, well-being and also welcomeness” — a sentiment underscored by Voices of Fire, the gospel choir he recruited via a 2020 Netflix series, who delivered the performance of a lifetime.

The song they unleashed, “Joy (Unspeakable),” was released on streaming platforms last Friday, illustrating how Williams is able to generate synergies from his multiple activities, ranging from film and television to music festivals and nonprofits, in addition to his own brands such as the skin care line Humanrace.

The setting of the show, which at times recalled a bombastic music video, also reflected the might of parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which owns the neighbouring Cheval Blanc hotel and Samaritaine department store, and essentially shut down the entire neighbourhood (there was even talk Michelle and Barack Obama would be there; they weren’t).

With so much to take in, it was hard to focus on the clothes.

Ever the multitasker, Williams had teased the collection at his Something in the Water music festival in his hometown of Virginia Beach, Virginia, in April. The LVers emblem that appeared on merchandise is a twist on the state’s slogan, “Virginia Is for Lovers,” and was repeated here as a graphic and embellishment.

But the main story was the Damier pattern. Williams has seen the future, and it’s pixelated.

“With the Damier, naturally, it presents like a chessboard, and so we use the squares of the chessboard as a sense of, like, pixelation, and we did everything from artistic motifs to one that I’m very proud of, which is Damoflage,” he said, referring to a motif splicing the heritage pattern with camouflage.

“I’m super proud of it because of the way that it animates on all of the apparel and the footwear, and even in the trunks,” he added. “And this is going to be something that will come back. It’ll be seasonal in different expressions.”

Williams teamed up with the U.S. pixel artist known as E.T. on a digitalised version of the motif, while the works of another American artist, Henry Taylor, featured as micro-embroideries on everything from denim to accessories.

The pixelated patterns appeared on items including shorts suits worn with wader boots; workwear jackets with multiple pockets; a tapestry jacket, and an oversize fur shawl. Coats featured a blown-up version of the classic Damier pattern, zinged up in yellow and black, or a graphic herringbone blanket motif.

Channeling his genderfluid allure, Williams covered the full gamut of the men’s wardrobe, from checkerboard-patterned denim to a luxe cream evening jacket. There were blinged-up suits with photo prints of the Pont Neuf, and a chubby coat with a shaved monogram motif that might appeal to guests like Maluma, who showed up with a giant diamond chain with an articulated dog pendant.

Williams was also keen to “put my feet and make tracks” with his handbags, citing past projects like the oversize purple Haut à courroies bag he commissioned from Hermès, and his stint as ambassador for Chanel’s Gabrielle bag.

His versions of the monogram Speedy bag in primary colours were inspired by the counterfeit versions sold on New York City’s Canal Street, but he made them in calf leather instead of canvas. He also revived the metallic Monogram Miroir bags introduced by Marc Jacobs in the mid-2000s.

“We have a lot of gems that are just there, we got a lot of low hanging fruit and I intend to use all that make sense,” he said.

In the run-up to the show, Williams was careful to acknowledge that not everyone is thrilled by his appointment, which cements Vuitton’s positioning as a “cultural” brand with broad reach across segments including sports, gaming, music and art.

Some commentators were disappointed that the job didn’t go to one of the young designers rumoured to be in the running, even though his predecessor Virgil Abloh also came from a non-fashion background, redefining the role of creative director into something closer to a curator.

“Kings rule in positions, right? I’m not that. What I am is a pupil, and I accepted it, this appointment, by saying, you know, I’m going to continue to be me. I’m going to continue to learn and with every collection, you’re going to see me sharing my learnings with the world,” he said.

“And my team helps to contextualise, lift, elevate, enrich and even enlighten a concept to just epic proportion. I’m always going to continue to talk about my team because they’re the best. If you see me and it looks like I’m floating, it’s them lifting me,” he said.

As he came out to take his bow, he wiped away tears and lifted a finger to the sky in thanks as the crowd rose in a standing ovation, conscious that he had poured every ounce of his creativity and star power into the show. The air was electric, and his team marched out right behind him.

This article originally appeared on WWD; wwd.com

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Painted Black

Dion Lee is teaming up with Cho Cho San for an Australian Fashion Week event.

By Horacio Silva 10/05/2024

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Nowhere more than in the fashion world. Despite the vagaries of taste, black remains the go-to colour of choice. Fitting, then, that for next week’s Australian Fashion Week, the perennially black-clad media darling Dion Lee has partnered with Pott’s Point Izakaya joint Cho Cho San on a black-themed late-night ramen bar.

Lee, based in New York and not showing in Sydney next week, has worked with the restaurant to create a menu inspired by his inky, haute-industrial aesthetic and favourite flavours.

As part of the signature offering ($50pp) guests are offered “Dion’s Martini” on arrival (his take on the classic vodka drink spiked with a black olive, natch), a Tokyo-style shoyu ramen with shitake mushrooms, smoked daikon and crunchy tempura shiso leaf, and a winning black sesame and cocoa soft-serve ice-cream replete with black cone. (Trust us, it tastes infinitely better than it sounds.)

Lee rarely strays outside his fashion lane, but a little blackbirdie tells us to expect an announcement soon about a major new collaboration. Let’s hope it involves black ice cream.

Cho Cho San x Dion Lee: Late Night Ramen Bar

Available from May 13-16, 5pm to late.

Signature set: $50pp includes Dion’s Martini, Tokyo Shoyu Ramen and Black Sesame Soft Serve.

To book click here

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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