“Le Ritz”: Two Words That Never Lose Their Charm

History, opulence, wonder — the grande dame of Paris maintains her crown.

By Richard Clune 05/05/2023

“Le Ritz, s’il vous plaît.” It’s a sentence to be spoken at least once in life.

Because you want life to take you to the Ritz Paris—because it’s, well, the Ritz, and because you want to see the cocked eyebrow the driver sports on hearing such an utterance, for he wasn’t expecting it given that you were simply hailing a street cab (for ease) at Gare Montparnasse following a delightful weekend with friends at their “country” (okay, Les Yvelines) pile.

And so here we are, blowing through the Left Bank towards a crossing of the Seine en route to the sparkling centre of Paris—Place Vendôme—and the city’s most famous hotel. Past the attentive, top-hatted doormen and through the revolving doors, directly into a world of wonder and Belle Époque charms—the lavish and long corridor, carpeted grand staircase, a parade of those staying and visiting.

The lobby of The Ritz Paris. Credit: Vincent Leroux

This is grandeur and history and wealth all wound together and framed by faultless service, which begins at the removed check-in desk and the offer of beverages, a famed madeleine dessert, anything at all—delivered in perfect English.

Up to a sumptuous executive room that surprises in its size, so too the direct views over Place Vendôme and its comings and goings. It’s a vista that at times is hard to fathom given the history, the square having been built on the orders of Louis XIV, before Napoleon replaced the central statue of the King in 1792 with a bronze column made of 1,200 enemy canons.

Today, the view is of enthralled tourists, the whir of suited men on scooters, a well-heeled weimaraner in orange “shoes” (true) strutting before lavish boutiques from some of the world’s best luxury brands: Boucheron, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Patek Philippe and more.

The Windsor Suite. Credit: Vincent Leroux

Back in the room—dominated by a king-size canopy bed—expect walls of flocked wallpaper as well as a desk, armchair, fireplace and windows framed by brocade curtains with tasselled edges. Pillowcases have been embroidered with my initials—a touch usually reserved for more frequent guests and those in “higher” suites—and then let’s get to it, the taps. Yes, the bathrooms here are a bold play of marble and mirrors (with inset TVs) and plush peach towels and robes (the colour favoured by founder César Ritz, who believed it flattering to a woman’s complexion). But then there are those ornate gold swan taps—more detailed in the flesh, fun all the same. Perhaps. We’re still processing them.

The exterior history is a match for the hotel itself—a former palace-styled townhouse first built by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, royal architect to Louis XIV, in 1705, before being purchased by César in the late 1800s. The Swiss hotelier wanted to produce the world’s most lavish hotel—which he did. Its 1898 opening became an immediate success, luring royals, artists, the famous and the feted. It was also the only hotel to offer a personal bathroom attached to each room—unheard of at the time.

Of all the Ritz tales, and there are many, one regarding Ernest Hemingway’s WWII “liberation” of the property is fun. The famous author—then a correspondent for Collier’s—landed at the hotel with a group of Resistance fighters and a machine gun.

Bar Hemingway. Credit Jerome Galland

“Where are the Nazis? I have come to liberate the Ritz,” said Hemingway.

“Monsieur,” chimed hotel manager Claude Auzello. “They left a long time ago, and I cannot let you enter with a weapon.”

As the story runs, Hemingway allegedly put the weapon down, went inside and ran up a tab for 51 dry martinis. It’s why you’ll find Bar Hemingway—an intimate place of leather and wood and wondrous libations—to the rear of the property on Rue Cambon (which boasts its own entrance) and which is a worthy end to each and every day.

Famous names are also lent to the property’s most prestigious suites: Maria Callas, Windsor, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Coco Chanel, among others. The famed French fashion designer lived at the Ritz, on and off, from 1937 until her death in 1971. Today, Chanel’s namesake suite is an ode to her signature style: black and white, straight lines and a gentle art deco flourish—far removed from the décor of other suites, with a level of opulence lifted from the Palace of Versailles.

Bar Vendôme. Credit: Vincent Leroux

Downstairs you’ll find the elevated French bistro stylings and menus of Bar Vendôme (we indulged in a seasonal mushroom dish, though you can also head for a memorable breakfast), as well as the lavish Belle Époque Salon Proust (yes, the novelist was also a Ritz habitué) for the high tea or even higher champagne.

Credit: Vincent Leroux

Also to the rear of the property sits Le Comptoir, an indulgent patisserie from the Ritz’s master pastry chef François Perret. The glazed madeleine is made of dreams, as are the melty tarte aux pommes and uniquely designed open sandwiches made to eat on the go (so very not Parisian but handy as an interloper).

Rightly making worldwide news on its opening in 2022, the subterranean Ritz Spa is its own version of luxury with stunning décor, deep-treatment menus, a salon from Australian hairdresser David Mallett and an indoor swimming pool that is truly breathtaking. For further repose, the internal garden in the style of a jardin à la française is not to be missed, a place of calm that’s incomparable in the 1st.

Le Ritz. A stirring of the senses unlike any other Parisian property—a hotel you’ll want to demand to be taken to, at least once.

ritzparis.com

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Sitting on the Dock of Balmain

Is The Dry Dock Sydney’s Hottest New Pub Renovation?

By Belinda Aucott-christie 15/05/2024

At its peak, in the late 1890s, Balmain had 55 pubs. They were noisy watering holes that serviced thirsty hordes after a day’s labour at the suburb’s harbourside coal mine and shipyards. Today, Balmain is dotted with charming workers’ cottages set behind picket fences and stolid corner pubs, which have been converted into restaurants and homes.

One such establishment, the Dry Dock on Cameron Street, has undergone a multi-million dollar renovation. As an original public house built in 1857, it remains fixed in a local backstreet and offers a porthole to the suburb’s blue-collar roots.

Locals can still bring their dogs into the front bar, or retreat to the lounge to sit next to a crackling log fire. 

The renovation carried out by Studio Isgro and H&E Architects combines rustic touches—like the acid-etched sandstone exterior, exposed brickwork and beams  —with elegant light fittings, an incredible sound system and tasteful art. 

“It has a transportive, escapist quality, where you could be anywhere, or right at home,” says interior designer Bianca Isgro of Studio Isgro, who spent two years on the overhaul. Her team designed a modern gastropub on the site after gutting and stripping the building, which had been neglected for years. 

Founder and managing director James Ingram (ex-Solotel and Merivale) has assembled a warm, friendly service team that matches the pub’s character. He says his team has fought hard to preserve the pub’s long-standing connection to residents and to get the mix of old and new right.

“Balmain is home to so many devoted residents who are rightly proud of the suburb’s working-class roots,” says Ingram over a frothy beer in the warm-toned front bar.

“The Dry Dock has been designed to have that timeless feel that stands the test of time.” 

The large open kitchen features an oyster bar and serves French-style fare, delicious sides, and hot desserts. The wine list is on point, with something in every price range and a friendly sommelier doing the rounds. 

The kitchen is led by seasoned chef Ben Sitton, who previously rattled the pans at institutions including Felix, Uccello and Rockpool Bar & Grill. His kitchen faces a large dining room with unclothed tables, bentwood chairs, tumbled marble floors and exposed trusses that give it a contemporary feel.

The back of the room overlooks a walled garden, with a giant ghost gum at its centre and views of neighbouring residential fences. 

 

Chef Sitton says his team relishes the opportunity to cook from an expansive modern European repertoire with quality produce. The robust flavours and textures are centred around the smoky quality that comes from Josper charcoal grills, wood-fired ovens, and the rotisserie.  

You can order steak frites with charred baby carrots, or baked market fish with a cheesy, potato gratin.

The Peninsula Hospitality Group, the team behind Dry Dock, is now looking to expand its foothold in Balmain by opening at least one other venue.

Visit for the food, stay for the vibe.

The Dry Dock, Public House & Dining Room, 22 Cameron Street, Balmain, NSW 2041. P: 02 9555 1306; drydock.com.au

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How To Drink Salon, Guilt-Free with Nick Hildebrandt

Once-in-a-Lifetime Wines By The Glass Come to Melbourne’s Atria and Sydney’s Bentley Restaurant + Bar

By Belinda Aucott-christie 15/05/2024

Want to eat a succulent starter of pearl meat and smoked lime butter with a glass of 2013 Champagne Salon? Or sink your teeth into chef’s cut Tallow-age beef while sipping a silky glass of 2021 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir?

This month you can. 

All through May, wine-loving patrons can order such rare drops by the glass at Michael Greenlaw’s Atria at The Ritz-Carlton in Melbourne, and Brent Savage’s The Bentley Restaurant + Bar in Sydney. Think glasses of Margaux  for around $70 and Crozes-Hermitage for under $50.

These precious wines that never grace wine lists, let alone by-the-glass menus, are being offered at 50% below the expected by-the-glass price, courtesy of Coravin’s World Wine Tour. 

Coravin is the life-preserving wine tech that allows oenophiles to pour vintage wines without removing the cork. The patented needle and gas system allows for the extraction of fine wine, without exposing the precious vintages to ruinous oxygen.

“This is a great initiative,” says owner and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt from his dimly-lit ground floor venue The Bentley Restaurant + Bar.. 

“This May we have the opportunity to pour by the glass some of the world’s most sought after wines. Especially Champagne Salon, which is extremely rare, and my favourite Champagne of all time,” he says beaming at the thought of serving the scarce blanc de blancs.

“We have a large following of loyal wine lovers who come to our restaurants and they are super excited to taste these wines at a reasonable price.”

The smiling sommelier continues, “Our guests will have the opportunity to taste a selection of famous and rare wines in pristine condition without spending hundreds or, in some instances, thousands on a bottle.” 

Until the end of May, patrons can sample wines from a limited list expertly curated by Coravin, featuring local and international gems. Learn more about Coravin’s World Wine Tour here.

To book visit Atria or Bentley Restaurant + Bar

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Painted Black

Dion Lee is teaming up with Cho Cho San for an Australian Fashion Week event.

By Horacio Silva 10/05/2024

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Nowhere more than in the fashion world. Despite the vagaries of taste, black remains the go-to colour of choice. Fitting, then, that for next week’s Australian Fashion Week, the perennially black-clad media darling Dion Lee has partnered with Pott’s Point Izakaya joint Cho Cho San on a black-themed late-night ramen bar.

Lee, based in New York and not showing in Sydney next week, has worked with the restaurant to create a menu inspired by his inky, haute-industrial aesthetic and favourite flavours.

As part of the signature offering ($50pp) guests are offered “Dion’s Martini” on arrival (his take on the classic vodka drink spiked with a black olive, natch), a Tokyo-style shoyu ramen with shitake mushrooms, smoked daikon and crunchy tempura shiso leaf, and a winning black sesame and cocoa soft-serve ice-cream replete with black cone. (Trust us, it tastes infinitely better than it sounds.)

Lee rarely strays outside his fashion lane, but a little blackbirdie tells us to expect an announcement soon about a major new collaboration. Let’s hope it involves black ice cream.

Cho Cho San x Dion Lee: Late Night Ramen Bar

Available from May 13-16, 5pm to late.

Signature set: $50pp includes Dion’s Martini, Tokyo Shoyu Ramen and Black Sesame Soft Serve.

To book click here

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Thanks to Coravin, You Can Order the World’s Best Wines by the Glass

The Coravin World Wine Tour offers foodies exceptional wines by the glass at two Australian restaurants.

By Josh Bozin 15/05/2024

Before 2013, the idea of preserving (expensive) wine was a real issue for wine connoisseurs, professional and otherwise. That was until Greg Lambrecht stepped in.

To save exceptional wine from spoiling, the American inventor created the Coravin, a preservation and pouring device that extracts wine from the bottle without compromising its taste or pressure. In other words, if you wanted to enjoy a glass of that Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux you’ve been saving but don’t want to finish the entire bottle, you wouldn’t put a silver teaspoon in the bottleneck and hope for the best. You’d use a Coravin.

“It’s always been my dream to enable wine lovers to drink whatever they want, whenever they want, in the quantity that is right for that moment,” Lambrecht tells Robb Report. “Some nights, that may be just one or two glasses from an incredible bottle of wine or maybe treating yourself to a fine Champagne, and with Coravin you can do this without feeling the pressure to finish the bottle or risk of throwing wine away when it’s past its prime.”

Coravin changed the game and is arguably one of the best advancements in modern Oenology. It has become a mainstay in the wine and hospitality industry globally, with most top-end restaurants and sommeliers utilising of its many iterations to service varied worldly wines.

Today, 11 years later, Coravin celebrates its achievements in the wine industry with an official, inaugural Coravin World Wine Tour. Wine connoisseurs who dream of tasting some of the best wines from around the world at almost 50 percent below the standard price, take heed.

For the month of May, patrons can sample wines from a limited list expertly curated by Coravin. The list features local and international wines of recognition that rarely grace restaurant lists, let alone by-the-glass.

Bentley Restaurant in Sydney and Atria at The Ritz-Carlton Melbourne will be serving customers exceptional, high-profile wines by the glass using the innovative Coravin wine serving system until May 31st. If you fancy indulging in some of the world’s rarest wines, such as Champagne Salon ‘S’ Blanc de Blanc Brut 2013—which retails for $3,800 a bottle and will be served by the glass exclusively at Bentley—or scarcely available Australian wines such as Bass Phillip Pinot Noir 2021 and Bass Phillip Chardonnay 2021, this is your chance.

“A notable trend in the industry is many venues are starting to offer alternative pour sizes, to suit single diners or tables of two better. This is to ensure a more comprehensive wine experience at the venue, without needing to commit to a full bottle or wines that are not available in a half bottle format,” says Sean Lam, head sommelier at Atria.

“Coravin technology enhances the traditional wine-tasting experience and elevates the overall dining journey. At Atria, for example, we can offer side-by-side a Margaret River Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay and a Premier Cru Chablis, and all three wines are in peak condition.”

Christopher Tan, director at Bass Phillip, adds that it’s a privilege to contribute to Coravin’s first World Wine Tour. “We are talking about wines that would be the envy of any serious wine collection, so it’s outstanding to see these being served in restaurants, let alone by the glass.”

Atria Melbourne

In addition to Australia, the Coravin World Wine Tour will also run in the UK, Italy, and France. To experience this special Coravin first-hand, Sydneysiders can make a reservation at Bentley Restaurant + Bar and Melburnians at Atria at The Ritz-Carlton anytime this month.

For more information, visit Coravin.

 

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