Robb Interview: Auro Montanari, Watch Collector

Up close and personal with one of the most influential watch collectors in the world.

By Paige Reddinger 07/07/2022

Auro Montanari—also known by the alias John Goldberger—has amassed a vast vault of rare watches over the past 43 years. Having acquired Patek Philippe and Rolex models at bargain prices during the quartz crisis in the ’70s, Montanari found himself sitting on a gold mine when the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking occurred roughly two decades later. The recent boom in sought-after vintage pieces has only furthered his renown. His Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6265, nicknamed “The Unicorn” because it was the only known vintage white-gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced, sold for US$5.9 million (approx. $8.35 million) in 2018 when it went up for auction at Phillips. Montanari donated the proceeds to the Geneva-based charity Children Action. But the native of Bologna, Italy, is equally known for his refined sense of style and an eye for everything from photography to rare books to fine china.

Do you have any personal rituals?

Just to drink Illy espresso made with mocha, the old Italian way.

What advice do you wish you’d followed?

I started in Italy [at a university] specialising in design and photography, very similar to the Parsons School in New York. After that, my father advised me to go to a good university in California, like Stanford or USC, but I was very lazy. I preferred to spend my time playing basketball, surfing and buying watches at vintage flea markets.

Why California?

When I went to the States for the first time in ’78, I went to New York and discovered it’s very expensive for a young guy. So then I went to California and discovered it’s a wonderful life there and not expensive. I remember the first year I was in California, in ’80 or ’81, it was easy to buy a car, to rent an apartment in Venice Beach or Santa Monica, and the life was more exciting. I stayed from ’80 to ’84. I was 22 or 23 years old to 25, and I met my wife, a German girl who was living there. Unfortunately, she passed away from cancer almost 20 years ago. I have a new wife now, but I had happy times in California.

What do you do that’s still analog?

I am a digital man, but I still read and collect real books. I love the smell of paper. I’m a big fan of photography books. I have many books by Henri Cartier- Bresson and Irving Penn, but the original ones printed in the ’70s. They’re very collectible. They have been reprinted, and the quality is better, but I prefer to have the originals, the first editions.

What in your wardrobe do you wear most often?

The light-blue Oxford button-down shirts by Brooks Brothers, New York, and vintage chambray shirts.

How do you find calm?

To take sun everywhere possible. I like to spend time in New York, and many times I go to the park to a bench in the direction of the sun, mostly in the winter. I have tan skin all year long.

Who is your guru?

My father was my guru. My father was always a good example because . . . he worked hard to build something. He set up a company from nothing. He was a good engineer, and he set up a very novel company in Italy with a focus on IT. He was also very elegant. He approached fashion the right way. He was never a fashion victim. He taught me how to find the right things, whether it was a tailor or a shop, and to save my money to buy vintage pieces.

Did he pass any watches down to you?

No, my father gave me a vintage Omega Seamaster for my communion, when I was somewhere between 8 and 10 years old, made in the same year of my birth, in 1957. Later, in the ’70s, he gave me good advice: “Start to buy watches, because they are very cheap. . . . Buy Patek Philippe because it is a strong brand.” I said to him, “Who is Patek Philippe?” I knew only of Cartier, Omega and Rolex. He told me, “Go to Geneva and study.” So I went to see this small building on a lake, the small shop of Patek Philippe, to understand why the brand was so strong. At that time, there were no books available. I started to develop my knowledge and collect watches in ’78, when I was 20.

What was your first watch purchase?

A vintage Rolex chronograph, which I purchased in an antiques shop in Bologna. It was US$500 (approx. $700). In the ’80s, I bought a nice rectangular Patek “Hour Glass”, which I bought for about US$900 (approx. $1,270) at a flea market in Italy. Also, I discovered a watch source in New York in ’78. At a flea market, I met a young lady who was Andy Warhol’s watch buyer, and she introduced me to him. In Beverly Hills, there was also a great pawn shop where you could find incredible watches from stars like Ava Gardner.

What’s the most recent thing you’ve added to your collection?

A very rare and unique platinum Cartier Tonneau chronograph monopusher manufactured at the end of the ’20s.

Who is your dealer and what do they source for you?

My preferred “pusher” is a good friend of mine. I like to call him my pusher because whenever he finds something he thinks I will like, he tries to sell it to me. He is Italian and knows my taste in watches very well. He is one of the most important dealers in Italy, or in Europe. Everything is rare and in perfect condition with good provenance and a good story.

Is there a watch you have always wanted but still haven’t found?

Ah, so many. The holy grail for me is always the next discovery. One in particular is a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar with a chronograph Ref. 1518. I have it in pink gold and in steel. But from the books of Patek, we know that they made only one piece in platinum. No one has seen a photo, and no one knows where it is located.

Which watch are you wearing?

Today, the average price for a vintage Patek Philippe “Hour Glass” is around USD$22,000 (approx. $31,000). I love to wear my platinum Cartier Tank Cintrée, which I had custom made in the Cartier boutique in Paris with Roman numerals instead of Arabic, in blue.

Is there anything else that you like to collect?

I collect some old porcelain china for my kitchen, pots that were used to contain tea powder, from the end of the 19th century. I bought all of these pots in New York almost 20 years ago. They were about US$1,000 (approx. $1,410) when I bought them, but now they are more expensive and there are many fake oriental pieces.

What’s the most impressive dish you can cook?

I love to spend time in my kitchen. My specialty is pasta with zucchini, like in Nerano, on the Sorrento coast. I use a Wolf stove and oven from the States. They shipped it to me in Italy because they are very hard to find here. My pots and pans are also from the States. I’ve spent a lot of money on shipping!

What is your favourite cocktail?

A frozen margarita with a good tequila. I started drinking margaritas in the Mexican restaurants when I was living in California. I like a good frozen margarita with nachos.

What is your exercise routine and how often do you do it?

No exercises, because I am very lazy. Maybe I am lucky with my metabolism, but I was a big sportsman when I was young. When I was 12 or 13, I was told I had a heart murmur and shouldn’t do sports, so I made a fake certificate so I could play basketball. Now I just try to walk.

What does success look like?

To do what I like without hurting my family or my business team.

Where do you buy most of your clothes from?

I purchase vintage and military clothes in flea markets around the world. I also love clothes by Double RL, Brooks Brothers shirts, and all of my suits are handmade by my tailors in Bologna and Naples. One of them is a tailor named Solito, who specialises in Neapolitan jackets with a good shoulder, handmade stitching and applied pockets.

Drive or be driven?

I do not like to drive. I love to travel by train and by plane.

When was the last time that you completely unplugged?

I unplug when I visit the bank vault once a month to see my watch collection in complete relaxation. I keep all of my watches there because it is not safe in Italy. I have a small private room underground where I sit and I have all of the watches organised by style, by type and by age. I go there and study them and take some photos. I always stay half an hour or 45 minutes.

How would you describe your look?

La sprezzatura, a studied carelessness.

What’s your favourite hotel?

The Whitby in New York because it’s in a good location, they have good service and good decor, and I love the private room downstairs with the fireplace, which is only for the guests, and the small garden. The breakfast is also very good there.

What’s always in your hand luggage?

A camera. I have a Sony AR7 II full format. I also sometimes use a Leica, but it’s not digital. The Sony is good because it’s a good price and good quality. It takes really good photos.

What is the car that you are most attached to?

My first car, a convertible VW Beetle. But I made it a present to a young engineer in my company who loves vintage cars. I hadn’t used it for the last 10 or 20 years, and he will still let me drive it.

What’s worth paying for?

Freedom.

Last box set or Netflix binge?

Recently, I purchased a DVD of Le Mans, with Steve McQueen, because I am writing, with Cesare Maria Mannucci, a new book, Time to Race, Part II, and I am trying to recognise the wristwatches worn by characters in the movie.

Bowie or Dylan?

Bowie. He was a great character during my youth.

This piece is from our new Watch Issue – on sale now. Get your copy or subscribe here, or stay up to speed with the Robb Report weekly newsletter.

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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