Bulgari Unveils Nine New Timepieces

There’s also a diamond-set minute repeater for good measure.

By Carol Besler 31/08/2021

Bulgari kicked off Geneva Watch Days with a slew of new timepieces. The mini watch fair, which was postponed due to Covid restrictions from its original date scheduled for earlier this month, takes place today through September 3rd in Switzerland and will play host to a total of 23 watchmaking houses. Bulgari, along with seven other brands including MB&F, Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, is one of the founding partners of the show. The Italian maison went big for the micro event with nine new releases across four collection ranges including everything from high complications and high jewellery pieces to sports watches and a surprise appearance from one of Disney’s most recognisable characters.

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon

Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon Bulgari

Starting from the top, the 41mm Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon ($176,000) uses a typically feminine inspiration for one of its more complicated pieces with a more conceptual take on the perennial motif that reimagines the way we read time. Minutes are tracked on a retrograde scale running in an arc along the lower half of the dial, where two independent, retractable “butterfly” or diamond-shaped hands take turns tracking minutes. As they rotate on a disk, one hand remains retracted while the other turns on its axis to point to the current minute. When the first hand reaches the 55th minute on the display, the other hand begins to gradually make a quarter turn to take its position at the 00-minute mark to count the next 60 minutes. Bulgari says the papillon device consumes less energy than a traditional minutes display. The manual wound manufacture calibre BVL 332 has a 60-hour power reserve and a central tourbillon escapement. Hours are clocked via a 24-hour jumping display that runs on a ceramic ball bearing in a window at 12 o’clock.

Bulgari Octo Roma World Timer in Stainless Steel or Steel DLC

Bulgari Octo Roma World Timer in Stainless Steel or Steel DLC Bulgari

While Bulgari’s watchmaking division is acclaimed for its more complex timepieces like the Papillon, as well as being a multiple world record holder in the art of micro-thin watchmaking in its Octo Finissimo collection, it did not forsake a focus on its less-famous, but no less distinctive, Octo Roma collection. The collection’s new WorldTimer (approx. $11,440), introduced today at the Geneva Watch Days show, tells time around the world the Bulgari way. It contains a new, integrated movement, the 261-component automatic calibre BVL257. A pair of rotating disks—one for the 24-time zone reference cities and the other for a 24-hour scale— allow instant reading of the time around the globe. All functions are adjusted via the crown, beginning with positioning the city of the chosen time zone at 12 o’clock, and then by setting the time, including the 24-hour time, according to that location. From there, it’s possible to read the time in all time zones. Bulgari switches up some of the cities that traditionally represent certain time zones choosing, for example, to represent the time in the Caribbean not with Bermuda but with St. Barts, a destination that represents “the essence of luxury in the region.” Other cities were chosen because Bulgari has, or plans to open, hotels there. The complex, 58-faceted case is 41mm wide, in either satin-brushed and polished stainless steel or blackened steel with sandblasted surfaces.

Gerald Genta Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse Disney Limited Edition

Gérald Genta Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse Disney Limited Edition Bulgari

But the house proved it was out to have a little lighthearted fun too. Who’s the leader of the club that’s made for you and me? That’s right, it’s Mickey Mouse. Bulgari is bringing the Disney cartoon to one of its most iconic formats—the chunky, round Gérald Genta Arena case. The elite brand has been making Mickey Mouse watches since long before Bulgari acquired it in 2000. They have become coveted collectors’ items, along with Genta’s high complications and iconic case designs. Gérald Genta was one of the most renowned watch designers of the 20th century, having created the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Cartier Pasha. The Gérald Genta Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse Disney limited edition is a tribute to the Disney heritage, as well as to the brand’s history of making retrograde calibres.

The famous mouse appears to be dancing on the rhodium-plated sunray dial. His left hand indicates the minutes on a 210-degree retrograde scale. The hours appear jump-style in a window at 5 o’clock. It is housed in a 41 mm Arena case in polished stainless steel and is a 150-piece limited edition that comes on a padded rubber strap, priced at €16,500 (approx. $26,700).

For its high jewellery offering, the Divina Mosaica is the tour de force with pavé and invisible style gem-setting in fan-shaped sections that resemble cloissoné enameling but without the enamel—the gem zones are separated by borders made of thin gold wire. The result is a unique interpretation of the high jewellery watch that is both contemporary and traditional, and at the same time demonstrates Bulgari’s fearless use of colour. The collection leaves no stone unset: every surface sparkles.

Bulgari Divina Mosaica

Bulgari Divina Mosaica Bulgari

There are three versions. The Divina Mosaica Minute Repeater (approx. $504,000) is all diamonds, with alternating sections of pavé set round diamonds and invisibly set tapered baguettes. The case side and the curved, fan-shaped lugs are also set with diamonds. It contains one of Bulgari’s seven world records for micro-watchmaking—the world’s thinnest striking movement, caliber BVL 362—interpreted here with a gem-set lucky charm attached to the slide that activates the chime on demand.  It is set with 689 diamonds totaling 11.6 carats in a 37mm 18-carat white-gold case topped off with a cabochon sapphire crown.

A Bulgari Diva's Dream Tsavorite Dial in the Making

A Bulgari Diva’s Dream Tsavorite Dial in the Making Bulgari

The Divina Mosaica Pink Sapphire (approx. $222,000) and Green Tsavorite (approx. $238,000) versions alternate diamond sections with gemstone sections, using light-to-dark graduated hues of either pink sapphires or tsavorites. The case, bezel and lugs are fully set, and the crown is topped with a matching tsavorite or pink sapphire cabochon.  These two versions contain the time-only automatic Bulgari caliber BVL 191. They are set with a total of 282 diamonds totaling 2.16 carats, and either 261 tsavorites (11.6 carats) or 261 pink sapphires (12.7 carats).

Bulgari Diva's Dream in Lapis Lazuli or Malachite

Bulgari Diva’s Dream in Lapis Lazuli or Malachite Bulgari

Bulgari also introduced two Diva’s Dream jewelry watches at Geneva Watch Days, changing up the dial with a different kind of gemstone application, using hardstones. Single slices of blue lapis lazuli or green banded malachite form the backdrop for these more understated pieces, which have simple diamond markers and diamond bezels. Alternating rows of fan-shaped bracelet links are also set with diamonds. The bracelet and 33mm case are 18k rose gold and set with 433 diamonds totalling 2.9 carats. The movement is quartz. They are priced at $68,240.

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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