Seven Wild Timepieces Coming To The ‘Only Watch Auction’

In November, Only Watch will offer 54 utterly unique timepieces.

By Victoria Gomelsky 12/07/2021

Mark your calendars. The watch world’s most high-profile selling event, the biennial Only Watch charity auction to benefit research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, takes place on Nov. 6 in Geneva.

The last time the event was staged, in 2019, a new world record was set for the highest price paid for any watch sold at auction, ever (for a unique version of the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime). With 54 brands, from Akrivia to Zenith, producing wild and unique pieces for the sale (seven of which are highlighted below), the 2021 Only Watch auction is poised to see similar headlines.

F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue

F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue

F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue F.P. Journe

Master watchmaker François-Paul Journe was having dinner at Francis Ford Coppola’s house in Napa Valley in 2012 when the director asked him if it was possible to create a watch in which a hand, using various combinations of fingers, displayed the hours.

“I replied that the idea was interesting and required thinking about,” Journe said in a statement. “But how to display 12 hours with five fingers? It was not an easy matter and this complex challenge inspired and motivated me.”

Nine years later, the idiosyncratic prototype timepiece that resulted from that offhand (see what we did there?) conversation is called the FFC Blue. Presented in a 42 mm tantalum case, the model is based on F.P. Journe’s revered automatic Octa Calibre 1300, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. The minutes are driven by a rotating disk located at 12 o’clock, while the mobile fingers appear or disappear instantaneously, indicating the hours by their position. (The fingers were inspired by a mechanical hand created by Ambroise Paré, a 16th-century physician known as the father of modern surgery.) Estimated at CHF 300,000–400,000 (approximately $439,310-$585,740); fpjourne.com

Girard-Perregaux Casquette

Girard-Perregaux Casquette

Girard-Perregaux Casquette Girard-Perregaux

Girard-Perregaux’s retro-futuristic entry into the Only Watch auction is a sleek reboot of its 1976 Casquette model. A quartz-powered wristwatch with an LED digital display, the original Casquette—encased in a choice of steel, yellow gold-plated metal or Makrolon—was the embodiment of the era’s funky design style, its TV-shaped case a reflection of the decade’s space-age obsession.

The redux edition seen here is the product of Girard-Perregaux’s second design collaboration with George Bamford, founder of the English customizer Bamford Watch Department (the first effort, the Laureato Ghost, came out last November). Bamford told Robb Report last year that he had his heart set on reviving the vintage model and here we have it.

This time around, the case is made of forged carbon, and the caseback and push buttons of grade 5 titanium. “Although some observers may describe the ’70s design of this watch as retro, I would argue that the shape of the case and the use of forged carbon make it look decidedly futuristic,” Bamford says. We couldn’t agree more. Estimated at CHF 10,000–20,000 (approximately $14,640-$30,750); girard-perregaux.com

Moser & Cie. Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser & Cie

The movement at the heart of H. Moser’s Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon for Only Watch was developed in 2020, when the watchmaker teamed with fellow independent brand MB&F on one of the year’s most talked-about collaborations. For this year’s auction, H. Moser chose to render the dial of its popular Streamliner model in Vantablack, the darkest man-made substance in existence, to accentuate its three-dimensional cylindrical tourbillon movement. Housed in a 40mm steel cushion case, on the complex Streamliner integrated steel bracelet, the piece is a subtle but unmistakable work of haute horlogerie. Estimated at CHF 60,000–80,000 (approximately $87,860 – $117,150); h-moser.com

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Hublot

Complete transparency, thanks to a case and dial made entirely of sapphire glass, has become something of a calling card for Hublot. For Only Watch, the brand has turned its eye for clarity on the Big Bang Tourbillon, whose bezel and hands are decked out in the special event’s signature orange hue. Powered by a new self-winding manufacture tourbillon movement—MHUB6035—introduced in January, the model comes with two interchangeable One Click structured lined rubber straps (one is transparent and the other is orange). The “Pièce Unique” engraving on the back seals the deal. Estimated at CHF 160,000–180,000 (approximately $174,071-$195,830); hublot.com

Ulysse Nardin UFO Clock

Ulysse Nardin UFO Clock

Ulysse Nardin UFO Clock Ulysse Nardin

Part timekeeper, part art object and part horological experiment, Ulysse Nardin’s UFO table clock answers a philosophical question: “What would a marine chronometer designed in 2196 be like?”

To capture the next 175 years of timekeeping, the watchmaker relied on its historic expertise with marine chronometers as well as its reputation for bold, futuristic watchmaking, best represented by the legendary Freak wristwatch of the early Aughts.

The 663 components contained by the glass-blown bell jar of the UFO sit upon a gentle swing meant to evoke the perpetual movement of the ocean. Equipped with three dials, allowing the display of three different time zones, the UFO is the product of a collaboration with the traditional clockmaker Maison L’Epée.

Introduced in April in a metallic blue edition of 75 pieces, the UFO has been remade for Only Watch as a singular object with its spherical anodized aluminium base, power reserve disks, lower ties, connecting cylinders and Ulysse Nardin logo insert decked out in a bright orange hue. Estimated at CHF 42,000 (approximately $61,500); ulysse-nardin.com

Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa

Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa

Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa Urwerk

At first glance, the UR-102 Gaïa from the avant-garde watchmakers at Urwerk seems like a departure from their signature style. Simple to the extreme, the model’s only concession to time display is a single wandering hour. Dig deeper, however, and you’ll discover that the model, encased in a round asphalt-coloured anodized aluminium case with a platinum caseback, is derived from the watch Urwerk showcased at its very first appearance at the Baselworld fair, in 1997.

The piece is named after the Gaïa Prize for entrepreneurship, which Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei won in 2020. “The award recognises a journey from oblivion to the limelight, along with tenacity, conviction and pugnacity that have repeatedly been put to the test,” Baumgartner and Frei said in a statement. “This model reflects this fierce determination that blazes new trails. We dedicate this symbol of hope to all those who struggle to make things happen.” For Only Watch, what could be more fitting? Estimated at CHF 32,000–75,000 (approximately $46,860-$109,830); urwerk.com

Zenith Defy 21 Double Tourbillon

Zenith Defy 21 Double Tourbillon

Zenith Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Zenith

Chronographs are Zenith’s bread and butter, but the brand’s Only Watch entry, its most advanced and complex chronograph to date, takes it up a notch or three. The Defy 21 Double Tourbillon features two independent tourbillons operating at 5Hz for the timekeeping function of the movement and 50Hz for the 1/100th of a second chronograph, each rotating at rates of 60 seconds and 5 seconds, respectively.

What truly elevates the timepiece, which is sheathed in a transparent 46mm sapphire case, into the realm of art (both the kinetic and static variety) is the three-dimensional PVD rainbow coating that’s been applied as a surface treatment to the tourbillon chronograph movement. Created by contemporary artist Felipe Pantone, a specialist in op art, the multicolour treatment produces an optical effect of transitioning hues throughout the open dial. Colour us impressed. Estimated at CHF 180,000–220,000 (approximately $263,580 -$322,160); zenith-watches.com

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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Bill Henson Show Opens at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Dark, grainy and full of shadows Bill Henson’s latest show draws on 35 mm colour film shot in New York City in 1989.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 20/04/2024

Bill Henson is one of Australia’s best-known contemporary photographers. When a show by this calibre of artist opens here, the art world waits with bated breath to see what he will unveil.

This time, he presents a historically important landscape series that chronicles a time in New York City that no longer exists. It’s a nostalgic trip back in time, a nocturnal odyssey through the frenetic, neon-lit streets of a long-lost America.

Known for his chiaroscuro style, Henson’s cinematic photographs often transform his subject into ambiguous objects of beauty. This time round, the show presents a mysterious walk through the streets of Manhattan, evoking a seedy, yet beautiful vision of the city. 

Bill Henson Untitled, 1989. Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley Gallery
Installation shot of Bill Henson’s show,’The Liquid Night’ at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Relying on generative gaps, these landscapes result from Henson mining his archive of negatives and manipulating them to produce a finished print. Sometimes, they are composed by a principle of magnification, with Henson honing in on details, and sometimes, they are created through areas of black being expanded to make the scene more cinematic and foreboding. Like silence in a film or the pause in a pulse, the black suggests the things you can’t see. 

Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Henson’s illustrious career has spanned four decades and was memorably marred by controversy over a series of nude adolescent photographs shown in 2008, which made him front-page news for weeks. This series of portraits made Henson the subject of a police investigation during which no offence was found. 

In recent years, Henson has been a sharp critic of cancel culture, encouraging artists to contribute something that will have lasting value and add to the conversation, rather than tearing down the past.

Untitled 2/1, 1990-91 from the series Paris Opera Project type C photograph 127 x 127 cm; series of 50 Edition of 10 + AP 2

His work deals with the liminal space between the mystical and the real, the seen and unseen, the boundary between youth and adulthood.

His famous Paris Opera Project, 1990-91, pictured above, is similarly intense as the current show, dwelling on the border between the painterly and the cinematic.

Bill Henson’s ‘The Liquid Night’ runs until 11 May 2024 at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, 8 Soudan Ln, Paddington NSW; roslynoxley9.com.au 

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