Eight Of The Best From Watches & Wonders

Our pick of the best and boldest from the ‘new’ international fair.

By Terry Christodoulou 27/04/2020

SIHH morphed into Watches & Wonders which morphed into a publicly ‘open’ digital showcase of some of the world’s finest watchmakers.

Spend some time with these eight standouts.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Vacheron - Watches & Wonders

VC has gone for gold in this formerly Olympic year, alongside a set of wildly complicated pieces such as the La Musique du Temps Tempo – a one of a kind chiming watch with some 19 complications and 600 components set within a 39mm case.

Still, the most eye-catching of the 2020 releases is the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The 8.1mm thick 41.5mm wide case manages to fit some 276 components, boasting a 40-hour power reserve and 22-carat gold rotor.
Available now and strapped to a completely gold bracelet with blue dial for approx. $136,750.

Vacheron-constantin.com

Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

The 2020 update to the already splendidly artistic Arceau L’Heure De La Lune means five new dial options.
Newcomers (still at 43mm) land in two blue-tinted models, one with a dial of Lapis Lazuli and one of hard stone called ‘blue pearl’ (approx. $51,755). The remaining three are made of real meteorite – yes, meteorite. One is Black Sahara meteorite (approx. $84,330), while the others are Lunar (approx. $63,000) and Martian (POA), giving you a taste for life on mars.

Don’t be fooled by its interstellar credentials, it’s still a highly technical collection utilising Hermès in-house movement boasting discs spinning over the dial with two mother of pearl moons, while showing the hours and minutes.
Available in spring.

Hermes.com

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide


This year’s newcomer is a W&W standout – the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide sporting an IWC first in the form of a moon phase and tide-tracking complication.

The approx. $53,000 timepiece also boasts a double moonphase complication at 12 o’clock, fitted into a 44mm case. The blue rubber and textile straps match the brilliant blue dial and contrast the red gold case and gold-plated hands and markers.

IWC flew the flag for all things Portugieser this year – the Automatic 40 a slightly more slender if handsome piece that embraces the past with the presence of its smaller seconds subdial at six o’clock.

Offered in a wealth of dial colours from $11,230.

Iwc.com

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus In Machina

Roger Dubuis
Fans of the bold Swiss master will be pleased with the release of the Excalibur Diabolus In Machina – which dials up (sorry) its watchmaking prowess by cramming a minute repeater and a tourbillon into the same 45mm case.

The watch chimes a once forbidden triad of notes, the ‘Diabolus in Musica’ a forbidden tritone chord while still functioning as a skeletonised tourbillon. Using a patented material, the CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM (a powder that is heated into a metal) the watchmaker has achieved intricate, technical and hard-wearing components that can withstand all technical challenges while keeping its sheen.

A unique piece that can be yours for approx. $887,000 – though the clock here is ticking. Be quick.

Rogerdubuis.com

Panerai Luminor Marina Fibratech 44mm


Beyond being the 70th anniversary of the celebrated Luminor and the release of eight new models with an appealing 70-year warranty period, Panerai has also added a new material to the mix.

‘Fibratech’ is the latest to come out of Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee and is created using mineral basalt fibres of which this Luminor’s 44mm case is made, making the whole piece 60 per cent lighter than steel and resistant to fading and corrosion.

In keeping with the brand’s diving history its also water-resistant to 300 metres and includes Panerai’s patented sportech and rubber strap.

Approx. $24,800.

panerai.com

A.Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater With Blue Dial


This utilises the same, frankly bonkers technology, nestled into a 44mm case that first claimed a lot of attention in 2015 – though in 2020 it lands with deep blue colouring and contrasting silver bridges that form a cohesive, modern looking watch.

Limited to only 30 pieces at approx. $754,000 each.

Alange-soehne.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar


A first for JLC and the headline act of its revamped Master Control Line, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar boasts a whole new movement – the in-house calibre JLC 759.

Like Anouk Aimee in A Man and a Woman (look it up!), this is a piece that immediately engages, drawing you in via an easy design with calendar functions at six and 12 o’clock, chronograph functions sat at three and nine o’clock and all neatly working together within the 40mm case.

Available in stainless steel (approx. $22,500) and rose gold (approx. $40,000). We’ll take the former, thanks.

jaeger-lecoultre.com/

The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Flying Tourbillon


Not one, but two new titanium flying tourbillons were introduced by Speak-Marin over the weekend. Available in both 38mm and 42mm, the raw, open-worked design is lightweight, thanks to the titanium material used for the case, and is perhaps more wearable than it’s skeletonised, tourbillon counterparts at 38mm.

Alligator leather on thew wrist further heightens thew elements of elegance, all available from approx $102,600 from June.

speake-marin.com/

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected