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Chanel’s Boy.Friend watch wins top honour in Geneva

Chanel’s angular, blackened Boy.Friend, beat out some stiff competition in the Ladies’ category of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève on Friday. The watch takes its name from the fashion industry’s pet prefix attached to a shirt, jacket, or some other item that belongs to your boyfriend but which you like to “borrow.” It is usually masculine by design, but tends to look good on women, too.

Gender neutral design is a Coco Chanel signature; her boxy tweed jacket and skirt ensembles were famously inspired by men’s suits. The Chanel Boy.Friend watch (CHF 53,900 or approximately $74,000 at current exchange) is a ladies’ watch, but with angular lines and a blackened openworked movement with a matching black strap instead of a bracelet. The diamonds set into the bezel of a pink gold case are the only traditionally feminine touch on the timepiece.

The Boy.Friend is a wristwatch rife with references. The rectangular case, with beveled edges at the corners, is inspired by the shape of the Chanel No.5 perfume bottle and cap, which was originally inspired by an aerial view of Place Vendôme in Paris. The square, now an area famous for its luxury shopping, is the site of the Ritz Hotel, where Coco Chanel lived for 30 years. Its design came about not by any singular inspiration, but was cobbled together by various successive enterprises over the course of two centuries. The corners were originally cut off to make way for open streets that would lead onto to the square, and were later filled in with buildings that enclosed the space, resulting in the shape it is today, which the Boy.Friend watch case mimics.

Housed inside it Place Vendôme-shaped case is the openworked Calibre 3—the third in-house movement produced by Chanel’s watchmaking division in Switzerland. The circular elements of the vertically aligned movement are beveled at the edges and gold plated to match the case. It is manual wound, with a 55-hour power reserve.

Another big winner in the Ladies’ Complication category was the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planétarium, an astronomical complication whose design is closely linked to the men’s Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium. The dial features planets and a moon made of precious gemstones that rotate around a center sun in real time. A gold shooting star is used as the hour marker to indicate the time. It is priced at $340,000 on an alligator strap and $458,000 on a diamond-set bracelet.

3-gphg2018 van cleef a lady arpels plan 001 0 Jewellery Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Secret de Coccinelle Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Van Cleef & Arpels took home another top honor, the Jewellery Watch Prize, for its Secret de Coccinelle (CHF 1,093,000 or $1,504,000 at current exchange), a unique piece in the style of a secret watch. The cover, designed as a lady bug, is set with rubies, diamonds and onyx. The bracelet, designed as a leaf, is set with green tsavorite garnets and emeralds.

4-gphg2018 van cleef a secret de coccinnelle 002 0 Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Planétarium Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Hermès, known for its interesting dial work in its ladies timepieces, took home the award for The Artistic Crafts category. Its Arceau Robe du Soir’s mosaic-style dial is composed of 2200 squares of leather to create a motif inspired by a popular Hermès silk scarf of the same name. It is a 12-piece edition priced at CHF 52,000 ($71,500 at current exchange).

5-gphg2018 hermes robe du soir 001 0 Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Hermès, Arceau Robe du soir Photo: Courtesy of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève

Ladies’ timepieces have increasingly been a focus at top watchmaking houses and this year’s winners prove that, while there are still some outstanding and notable gem-set watches, modern women are after watches with both serious complications and watches with exceptional design.

Prizes in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève in the Ladies’ category include:

Ladies’ Watch Prize: The Chanel Boy-Friend

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: The Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planétarium

Jewellery Watch Prize: The Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: The Hermès Arceau Robe du Soir

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