17 Ways To Do Europe After Lockdown

It’s a way off yet – but you can still dream and plan with our ultimate luxury guide to avoiding cliches and crowds.

By Natasha Dragun & Richard Clune 07/05/2020

There will always be another European summer – and with that in mind we’re happy to provide some dreamy plans and an undisputed cure for the quarantine blues. From sailing the Med in a multi-million dollar superyacht to an overlooked French island, the best dining and most exclusive accommodation, we’ve pulled together the ultimate luxury guide to avoiding cliches, crowds and finding newfound fun for when we next can. 

Corsica, France

‘We’re not French and we’re not Italian – we’re Corsican’. It’s a refrain proudly ousted by locals across this mountainous Mediterranean island known to most as the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte.

The claims of autonomy, despite being one of 18 French ‘regions’, coupled with the Franco and Italian influences, make this a unique European option that delivers on picturesque hilltop villages, passionate locals and stunning white sand beaches lapped by transparent waters. The food culture here is strong – so too the growing luxury market, especially along the southern coast around towns such as Porto Vecchio and the enchanting Bonafacio.

The Thinking Traveller holds the keys to the island’s most indulgent villas – Cala d’Istria and I Bruzzi two Robb Report faves – though exquisite and exclusive hotel offerings come in the form of Porto Vecchio’s Casadelmar and, further south, the elevated Hotel Version Maquis Citadelle.

Take a week, grab a car or a bike and soak up this remarkable island that remains comparatively overlooked when compared to some of its closest neighbours.

thethinkingtraveller.com; casadelmar.fr; hotel-versionmaquis.com

Kea, Greece

Yes, a Greek isle that isn’t Mykonos and which still curiously flies somewhat under the radar – at least until One & Only opens its doors here in 2021.

Overlooked by the hordes who push on past to islands better-known, Kea (Tzia) is, in fact, the closest to the mainland, located just an hour from Lavrio.

On offer is a wonderful local setting that delivers a ritzy yachting scene around Koundouros and Vourkari and, beyond, the subtle charms of a dusty island of desirable space and general tranquillity.

There’s also some brilliant wreck diving to be done and many secluded beaches on which to laze. That’s if you can be bothered leaving accommodation such as that on offer by White Key Villas – newcomer, Villa Ligaria, proving to be a side of secluded Grecian perfection that comes with private beach, pool, and heightened levels of chic.

whitekeyvillas.com

Million-Dollar Med Cruise

What does $1.13 million a week get you on the Med? Seventy-two metres of lavish cruise power, it turns out.

Available exclusively for charter, superyacht Coral Ocean has more than enough space for a neat group of 12 (plus crew) to sail and explore some of Europe’s most picturesque ports.

Gleaming bathrooms aside, the appealing, designer cruiser comes with plunge pool, spa and gym. If that’s not enough to keep you and yours entertained (well, working off any excesses) she’s also fitted with a full suite of fun – jet ski, wakeboards, stand-up paddleboards, towable inflatables, more – and a main deck that can easily accommodate a party of 80.

ahoyclub.com

Capri Palace, Italy

Italy’s original luxury island retreat, Capri, is where the who’s who convene to shop for designer fashion and sip limoncello in bougainvillea-draped villas. The sun-kissed isle in the Bay of Naples has attracted Europe’s beautiful people for decades, many of them checking in to the iconic 1960s Capri Palace, styled on an 18th-century Neapolitan palazzo.

In April, the grande dame will welcome visitors once more, fresh from a revamp courtesy of the Emirati Jumeirah Group. The brand’s Italian foray is a polished version of the original, its 68 airy rooms each a vision in white.

Public spaces, meanwhile, come with pops of colour thanks to a collection of contemporary artworks by Mirò, Magritte and Warhol, among others.

While its foundations are storied, the hotel’s chefs are as forward-thinking as they come, securing three Michelin stars across the two restaurants and promising endless culinary highlights.

capripalace.com

Aman Jet Charter & Concierge

Unlike other upscale hotel brands with private jets, Aman Resorts’ new sky-high offering is more like a luxe charter than set (read: forced) itinerary.

Here, you and 11 of your closest can sink into Italian leather armchairs on board the brand’s Bombardier Global 5000, carefree considering a private concierge has customised everything from in-flight meals and beverages to various ground itineraries at Aman’s no-luxuries-spared properties (there are now five across Europe).

Touch down first, say, in Montenegro, where Aman Sveti Stefan’s 58 rooms sit pretty in 600-year-old stone houses on a private fortified island. Connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, the exclusive property is within easy reach of pink-sand beaches and various World Heritage-protected villages.

From here, buckle up and jet south toward Amanzoe in the Peloponnese. This architect-designed aerie, around 60 kilometres southwest of the Greek capital, affords views for days: a mise-en-scène of olive groves that tumble toward the Aegean. Speedboats await to zip you between secret coves or out to the islands of Spetses and Hydra, with helicopters on call to convey you to Athens’ hilltop Acropolis (at these heights, the journey takes just 15 minutes).

It doesn’t take much longer to fly on to Aman Venice – a gilded rococo palazzo with sumptuous Jean-Michel Gathy interiors at your disposal. Step outside, and a polished mahogany motorboat awaits on your Grand Canal doorstep.

aman.com

East London

Young, cool, chic – all adjectives worthily used to describe East London since the hipsters moved in during the early naughties. OK, late ‘90s.

While postcodes in this formerly industrial part of town are now ever-popular among tech creatives and advertising types – even Hackney boasts dads sporting three-piece Richard Anderson creations pushing Bugaboos – a new breed of upscale travellers are also making their mark on this once-maligned part of town.

Why leave Mayfair, you may ask? Because, beyond the comparative and alluring edge of the East, the area now boasts some of the city’s most happening hotels – like Nhow, a design-driven bolthole and the UK’s first outpost from the NH group.

Following the lead of its older European siblings –  Milan, Rotterdam, Berlin – the new London Nhow comes with style to spare. Think bright and bold interiors with whimsical flourishes that nod to their location: a larger-than-life mural of the Queen, a sculpture of Big Ben in the lobby, cockney rhyming slang carved into tables.   

Helping to cement the eastern appeal is Nobu Hotel Shoreditch – a slick designer destination and the brand’s first European hotel, replete with eponymous restaurant serving Japanese-Peruvian menu favourites – including signature Black Cod Den miso as well as a first in breakfast.

There’s a buzz to the east not found elsewhere in the capital. While the independent galleries have been booted by various tech start-ups, there’s still some exciting ventures like the pending launch of Fotografiska London and planned exhibitions from the likes of Annie Leibovitz, Sally Mann, David LaChapelle and Helmut Newton.

As for dining, we’re for Champagne delivered at the press of a button at Bob Bob Cite (a rather curious upscale French affair that’s best experienced first hand), the New-Nordic Lyle’s, the energy and voluminous stylings of The Ned and its various offerings (inclusive of some rather decent upstairs digs) and the wonder of the cocktail menu at Untitled Bar on Dalston’s Kingsland Road.

nhow-hotels.com; london-shoreditch.nobuhotels.com

Zizanj Private Island, Croatia

Dalmatians call it fjaka – a deliciously lazy mood of utter contentment. And it’s found in spades on Croatia’s turquoise-sea-rimmed islands, from Hvar to Korcula.

When done sharing the sand with strangers, set your yacht’s GPS for Zizanj Private Island. One of the country’s lesser-known – but no less alluring – slips of land, Zizanj is only accessible to visitors who rent it on an exclusive basis. Aside from luxe villas with space for 14, there’s nothing else to distract you on this drop in the Kornati Archipelago. Well, aside from an olive grove producing a punchy extra virgin oil that will spoil you for all others of its kind.

Here there are no roads and no cars – meaning the only way to get around is on foot or via the water.

‘A’  is for Adriatic bliss.

Submarine Exploration

Ocean going vessel Scenic Eclipse is a bombastic union of high-end expedition frivolity and serious underwater exploration – replete with a shiny six-seater U-Boat Worx Cruise Submarine 7 known as the Scenic Neptune.

Self-described as the world’s first ‘discovery yacht’, the 228-passenger Eclipse is designed to conquer the world’s most remote regions – also, colder northern European waters.

As for the Eclipse’s sub, it can sink to a depth of 300 metres, allowing a personal Bond moment well below the waves this summer – and beats getting wet.

scenic.com.au

Cheval Blanc Hotel, Paris

France, Paris, 1st district, Pont des Arts and Samaritaine building

One of the most anticipated openings of the year and for good reason. The Parisian newcomer – a first city outpost for the LVMH brand – lands in the thick of things next to the Seine and adjacent to Musee du Louvre this May. Housed in the landmark, and lavishly updated, La Samaritaine building, a tightly-held 72 rooms and suites means a boutique feel with Art-Deco interiors by Peter Marino.

Art runs throughout the property, which also boasts swimming pool and terrace alongside a Dior Spa.

Adding further appeal is new, in-house restaurant from three Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Donckele – a venture set to celebrate the city with a largely locally-sourced menu wrapped in his trademark inventiveness.

chevalblanc.com

Forte San Giorgio, Capraia, Italy

An exclusive rental unlike anything else you’ll come across – a sensitively, luxuriously and ecologically refurbished 16th century fortress on the tiny island
of Capraia in the Tuscan Archipelago between Italy and Corsica.

$87,600 a week (high-season) means eleven bedrooms, ten bathrooms, two infinity pools, direct sea access, endless space and walking distance to local restaurants and so much more.

It took more than a decade of dedicated work to bring this unique property, a listed National Monument of Architectural and Artistic Merit, back to life and it simply cannot be overlooked in thinking about 2020’s ultimate European sojourn.

thethinkingtraveller.com

Restaurant Mirazur, Menton, France

This exquisite, Cote D’Azur fine diner largely flew under the radar – at least until its announcement last year as the world’s best. Chef Mauro Colagreco has taken from his Italian-Argentinian heritage, paired to French learnings under the likes of Alain Ducasse, to deliver a unique menu – forged on what’s available from an impressive rear garden and the ocean it overlooks. Two so-called ‘surprise’ menus are offered and run to nine courses and unparalleled views for approx. $426 per head.

mirazur.fr

Private Train Travel

When the journey matters just as much as the destination, there’s no better way to see the world than by rail. And when the rail journey demands decadence, there’s no better company to enlist than Golden Eagle.

With two trains click-clacking across Europe, the luxe line is ideally enjoyed on a private charter. Think of the cabins on the Golden Eagle Danube Express as moving five-star hotel rooms, transporting you across captivating Balkan landscapes in serious style. Or, spend 15 vodka-fuelled days on the Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express between Moscow and Vladivostok, enjoying what is arguably the world’s most epic rail ride.

Butler service, ensuite bathrooms, high-tech entertainment and Michelin-esque restaurant meals are just some of the on-board luxe.

goldeneagleluxurytrains.com

Rome’s Grand House

Hospitality brand The Grand House allows access to some of Rome’s most prestigious residences, while providing the high-touch services you’d expect from a five-star hotel. Included on their books of Roman apartments is a three-bedroom pied-à-terre owned by an art collector in a historic building just steps from the Pantheon, and a five-bedroom abode in a Renaissance palazzo on Piazza Mattei – the seat of the aristocratic Costaguti family for centuries.

Here, at the Costaguti home, period details like original frescoes, terra cotta floors and marble fireplaces are juxtaposed with contemporary art and mid-century furnishings by Charles and Ray Eames, Verner Panton and Achille Castiglioni. Services include 24/7 concierge, access to The Clubhouse for work and luggage storage, exclusive tours and dining options and the general ability to peek behind curtains usually drawn on tourists.

thegrandhouse.com

Volcano Dining, Iceland

When you’re sated by the parade of eye-popping courses at Catalonia’s three-Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca, and you’ve lingered over every bite at Copenhagen’s NOMA, the only European culinary experience left to thrill is one that sees you seated in an extinct volcano.

Jacada Travel has created the world’s coolest (hottest?) meal, served inside a magma chamber of Iceland’s Thrihnukagigur Volcano. You could fit the Statue of Liberty tilted on her side in here, but instead, the luxury operator sets an intimate scene with starched linens and crystal and a menu entirely of your design. Befitting of such a setting are helicopter transfers and the night’s lighting – time your visit right and feast under the glow of the Aurora Borealis.

jacadatravel.com

A Plummy Guide To Paris

There’s something quite wonderful about staying in a well-appointed city apartment – tranquil, private and grafted to tangible emotions that touch on being ‘local’.

Of the wealth of operators that ascend well beyond Airbnb, The Plum Guide opens the front doors of some seriously luxurious properties across continental cities – each vetted by humans, not algorithms.

The Bilbury, Paris, is a standout worthy of some summer downtime. Located in the central 8th arrondissement, a mere meander from the Champs-Elysees, Arc De Triomphe and most luxury distractions, the two-level, light-filled and spacious apartment boasts five bedrooms, four bathrooms, impressive views, designer touches and an enviable terrace.

plumguide.com

Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc, Antibes, France

This is the elevated setting of F Scott Fitzgerald’s Tender Is The Night, where A-Listers play whether attending the Cannes Film Festival or not – a place that simply must be experienced, if only to realise lofty expectations can be met and to engage the ‘Haute Cote’ at its finest. 22-acres of luscious grounds wrapped by the ocean, 117 rooms of which the Eden Roc Suite is best and a cliff pool that only furthers romantic notions of historic Riviera glamour.

hotel-du-cap-eden-roc.com 

Kate Moss’s pad, Cotswolds, England

Give the British Cotswolds a twirl this European summer – all green charm, rolling hills, quaint gastro pubs and more just two hours west of London (quicker still by chopper, with a wealth of transfers available from the capital). Once here, opt for a stay at contemporary villa Barnhouse – the centrepiece of the sprawling Lakes by Yoo estate and a property boasting interiors styled by the supermodel Kate Moss.

Put aside any images of what such wording may first prompt – this ‘barn’ is a slick, if colourful, slice of airy living shielded by stunning woodland and which features five bedrooms, private pool, fireplaces, art by Damien Hirst and an insight into Moss’s musical taste via a slate of chosen records to play. The villages of Thornhill and Claydon are a five-minute drive away.

mrandmrssmith.com

 

This story comes from our latest Autumn 2020 issue. To purchase a copy or to sign up to an annual subscription of Robb Report Australia & New Zealand click here. To stay in touch with all the latest news click here.

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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Bill Henson Show Opens at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Dark, grainy and full of shadows Bill Henson’s latest show draws on 35 mm colour film shot in New York City in 1989.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 20/04/2024

Bill Henson is one of Australia’s best-known contemporary photographers. When a show by this calibre of artist opens here, the art world waits with bated breath to see what he will unveil.

This time, he presents a historically important landscape series that chronicles a time in New York City that no longer exists. It’s a nostalgic trip back in time, a nocturnal odyssey through the frenetic, neon-lit streets of a long-lost America.

Known for his chiaroscuro style, Henson’s cinematic photographs often transform his subject into ambiguous objects of beauty. This time round, the show presents a mysterious walk through the streets of Manhattan, evoking a seedy, yet beautiful vision of the city. 

Bill Henson Untitled, 1989. Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley Gallery
Installation shot of Bill Henson’s show,’The Liquid Night’ at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Relying on generative gaps, these landscapes result from Henson mining his archive of negatives and manipulating them to produce a finished print. Sometimes, they are composed by a principle of magnification, with Henson honing in on details, and sometimes, they are created through areas of black being expanded to make the scene more cinematic and foreboding. Like silence in a film or the pause in a pulse, the black suggests the things you can’t see. 

Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Henson’s illustrious career has spanned four decades and was memorably marred by controversy over a series of nude adolescent photographs shown in 2008, which made him front-page news for weeks. This series of portraits made Henson the subject of a police investigation during which no offence was found. 

In recent years, Henson has been a sharp critic of cancel culture, encouraging artists to contribute something that will have lasting value and add to the conversation, rather than tearing down the past.

Untitled 2/1, 1990-91 from the series Paris Opera Project type C photograph 127 x 127 cm; series of 50 Edition of 10 + AP 2

His work deals with the liminal space between the mystical and the real, the seen and unseen, the boundary between youth and adulthood.

His famous Paris Opera Project, 1990-91, pictured above, is similarly intense as the current show, dwelling on the border between the painterly and the cinematic.

Bill Henson’s ‘The Liquid Night’ runs until 11 May 2024 at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, 8 Soudan Ln, Paddington NSW; roslynoxley9.com.au 

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Watch of the Week: the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon

The new release claims the throne as the world’s thinnest Tourbillon.

By Josh Bozin 19/04/2024

Piaget, the watchmaker’s watchmaker, has once again redefined the meaning of “ultra-thin” thanks to its newest masterpiece, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon—the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch.

In the world of high-watchmaking where thin is never thin enoughlook at the ongoing battle between Piaget, Bulgari, and Richard Mille for the honours—Piaget caused a furore at Watches & Wonders in Geneva when it unveiled its latest feat to coincide with the Maison’s 150th year anniversary.

Piaget
Piaget

Piaget claims that the new Altiplano is “shaped by a quest for elegance and driven by inventiveness”, and while this might be true, it’s clear that the Maison’s high-watchmaking divisions in La Côte-aux-Fées and Geneva are also looking to end the conversation around who owns the ultra-thin watchmaking category.

The new Altiplano pushes the boundaries of horological ingenuity 67 years after Piaget invented its first ultra-thin calibre—the revered 9P—and six years after it presented the world’s then-thinnest watch, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept. Now, with the release of this unrivalled timepiece at just 2mm thick—the same as its predecessor, yet now housing the beat of a flying tourbillon, prized by watchmaking connoisseurs—you can’t help but marvel at its ultra-thin mastery, whether the timepiece is to your liking or not.

Piaget
Piaget

In comparison, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon was 3.95mm thick when unveiled in 2020, which seems huge on paper compared to what Piaget has been able to produce. But to craft a watch as thin and groundbreaking as its predecessor, now with an added flying tourbillon complication, the whole watchmaking process had to be revalued and reinvented.

“We did far more than merely add a tourbillon,” says Benjamin Comar, Piaget CEO. “We reinvented everything.”

After three years of R&D, trial and error—and a redesign of 90 percent of the original Altiplano Ultimate Concept components—the 2024 version needs to be held and seen to be believed. The end product certainly isn’t a watch for the everyday watch wearer—although Piaget will tell you otherwise—but in many ways, the company didn’t conjure a timepiece like the Altiplano as a profit-seeking exercise. Instead, overcoming such an arduous and technical watchmaking feat proves that Piaget can master the flying tourbillon in such a whimsical fashion and, in the process, subvert the current state-of-the-art technical principles by making an impactful visual—and technical—statement.

The only question left to ask is, what’s next, Piaget?

Piaget
Piaget

Model: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
Diameter: 41.5 mm
Thickness: 2 mm (crystal included)
Material: M64BC cobalt alloy, blue PVD -treated
Dial: Monobloc dial; polished round and baton indices, Bâton-shaped hand for the minutes Monobloc disc with a hand for the hours
Water resistance: 20m

Movement: Calibre 970P-UC, one-minute peripheral tourbillon
Winding: Hand-wound
Functions: hours, minutes, and small seconds (time-only)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Availability: Limited production, not numbered
Price: Price on request

 

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Polar Opposites

A journey north to one of the harshest, remotest spots on Earth couldn’t be more luxurious. 

By Michael Verdon 18/04/2024

A century ago, an expedition to the North Pole involved dog sleds and explorers in heavy, fur-lined clothes, windburned and famished after weeks of trudging across ice floes, finally planting their nations’ flags in the barren landscape. These days, if you’re a tourist, the only way to reach 90 degrees north latitude, the geographic North Pole, is aboard Le Commandant Charcot, a six-star hotel mated to a massive, 150-metre ice-breaking hull. 

My wife, Cathy, and I are among the first group of tourists aboard Ponant’s new expedition icebreaker, the world’s only Polar Class 2–rated cruise ship (of seven levels of ice vessel, second only to research and military vessels in ability to manoeuvre in Arctic conditions). Our arrival on July 14 couldn’t be more different from explorer Robert Peary’s on April 6, 1909. On that date, he reported, he staked a small American flag—sewed by his wife—into the Pole, joined by four Inuits and his assistant, Matthew Henson, a Black explorer from Maine who was with Peary on his two previous Arctic expeditions. (Peary’s claim of being first to the Pole was quickly disputed by another American, Frederick Cook, who insisted he’d spent two days there a year earlier. Scholars now view both claims with skepticism.) 

Our 300-plus party’s landing, on Bastille Day, features the captain of the French ship driving around in an all-terrain vehicle with massive wheels and an enormous tricolour flag on the back, guests dressed in stylish orange parkas celebrating on the ice, and La Marseillaise, France’s national anthem, blaring from loudspeakers. After an hour of taking selfies and building snow igloos in the icescape, with temperatures in the relatively balmy low 30s, we head back into our heated sanctuary for mulled wine and freshly baked croissants. Mission accomplished. Flags planted. Now, lunch. 

As a kid, I was fascinated by stories of adventurers trying to reach the North Pole without any means of rescue. In the 19th century, most of their attempts ended in disaster—ships getting trapped in the ice, a hydrogen balloon crashing, even cannibalism. It wasn’t until Cook and Peary reportedly set foot there that the race to the North Pole was really on. Norwegian Roald Amundsen, the first to reach the South Pole, in 1911, is credited with being the first to document a trip over the North Pole, which he did in 1926 in the airship Norge. In 1977, the nuclear-powered icebreaker Arktika became the first surface vessel to make it to the North Pole. Since then, only 18 other ships have completed the voyage. 

Le Commandant Charcot

Visiting the North Pole seemed about as likely for me as walking on the Moon. It wasn’t even on my bucket list. Then came Le Commandant Charcot, which was named after France’s most beloved polar explorer and reportedly cost about US$430 million (around $655 million) to build. The irony of visiting one of the planet’s most remote and inhospitable points while travelling in the lap of luxury doesn’t escape me or anyone else I speak with on the voyage. Danie Ferreira, from Cape Town, South Africa, describes it as “an ensemble of contradictions bordering on the absurd”. Ferreira, who is on board with his wife, Suzette, is a veteran of early-explorer-style high-Arctic journeys, months-long treks involving dog sleds and real toil and suffering. He booked this trip to obtain an official North Pole stamp for an upcoming two-volume collection of his photographs, Out in the Cold, documenting his polar adventures. “Reserving the cabin felt like a betrayal of my expeditionary philosophy,” he says with a laugh. 

Then, like the rest of us, he embraces the contradictions. “This is like the first time I saw the raw artistry of Cirque du Soleil,” he explains. “Everything is beyond my wildest expectations, unrelatable to anything I’ve experienced.”

One of the ship’s scientists tests the ice with a passenger.

The 17-day itinerary launches from the Norwegian settlement of Longyearbyen, Svalbard, the northernmost town in the Arctic Circle, and heads 1,186 nautical miles to the North Pole, then back again. As a floating hotel, the vessel is exceptional: 123 balconied staterooms and suites, the most expensive among them duplexes with butler service (prices range from around $58,000 to $136,000 per person, double occupancy); a spa with a sauna, massage therapists, and aestheticians; a gym and heated indoor pool. The boat weighs more than 35,000 tons, enabling it to break ice floes like “a chocolate bar into little pieces, rather than slice through them”, according to Captain Patrick Marchesseau. Six-metre-wide stainless-steel propellers, he adds, were designed to “chew ice like a blender”. 

Marchesseau, a tall, lanky, 40-ish mariner from Brittany, impeccable in his navy uniform but rocking royal-blue boat shoes, proves to be a charming host. Never short of a good quip, he’s one of three experienced ice captains who alternate at the helm of Charcot throughout the year. He began piloting Ponant ships through drifting ice floes in Antarctica in 2009, when he took the helm of Le Diamant, Ponant’s first expedition vessel. “An epic introduction,” Marchesseau calls those early voyages, but the isolated, icebound North Pole aboard a larger, more complicated vessel is potentially an even thornier challenge. “We’ll first sail east where the ice is less concentrated and then enter the pack at 81 degrees,” he tells a lecture hall filled with passengers on day one. “We don’t plan to stop until we get to the North Pole.” 

Around us, the majority of the other 101 guests are older French couples; there are also a few extended families, some other Europeans, mostly German and Dutch, as well as 10 Americans. Among the supporting cast are six research scientists and 221 staff, including 18 naturalist guides from a variety of countries. 

The first six days are more about the journey than the destination. Cathy and I settle into our comfortable stateroom, enjoy the ocean views from our balcony, make friends with other guests and naturalists, frequent the spa, and indulge in the contemporary French cuisine at Nuna, which is often jarred by ice passing under the hull, as well as at the more casual Sila (Inuit for “sky”). There are the usual cruise events: the officers’ gala, wine pairings, daily French pastries, Broadway-style shows, opera singers and concert pianists. Initially, I worry about “Groundhog Day” setting in, but once we hit patchy ice floes on day two, it’s clear that the polar party is on. The next day, we’re ensconced in the ice pack. 

Veterans of Arctic journeys immediately feel at home. Ferreira, often found on the observation deck 15 metres above the ice with his long-lensed cameras, is in his element snapping different patterns and colours of the frozen landscape. “It feels like combining low-level flying with an out-of-body experience,” he says. “Whenever the hull shudders against the ice, I have a reality check.” 

Spotting a small colony of penguins. IMAGE: Ponant

“I came back because I love this ice,” adds American Gin Millsap, who with her husband, Jim, visited the North Pole in 2015 aboard the Russian nuclear icebreaker Fifty Years of Victory, which for obvious reasons is no longer a viable option for Americans and many Europeans. “I love the peace, beauty and calmness.” 

It is easy to bliss out on the endless barren vistas, constantly morphing into new shapes, contours and shades of white as the weather moves from bright sunshine to howling snowstorms—sometimes within the course of a few hours. I spend a lot of time on the cold, windswept bow, looking at the snow patterns, ridges and rivers flowing within the pale landscape as the boat crunches through the ice. It feels like being in a black-and-white movie, with no colours except the turquoise bottoms of ice blocks overturned by the boat. Beautiful, lonely, mesmerising. 

Rather than a solid landmass, the Arctic ice pack is actually millions of square kilometres of ice floes, slowly pushed around by wind and currents. The size varies according to season: this past winter, the ice was at its fifth-lowest level on record, encompassing 14.6 million square kilometres, while during our cruise it was 4.7 million square kilometres, the 10th-lowest summer number on record. There are myriad ice types—young ice, pancake ice, ice cake, brash ice, fast ice—but the two that our ice pilot, Geir-Martin Leinebø, cares about are first-year ice and old ice. The thinness of the former provides the ideal route to the Pole, while the denseness of the aged variety can result in three-to-eight-metre-high ridges that are potentially impassable. Leinebø is no novice: in his day job, he’s the captain of Norway’s naval icebreaker, KV Svalbard, the first Norwegian vessel to reach the North Pole, in 2019. 

Atlantic puffin, typically seen along the coast of Svalbard.

It’s not a matter of just pointing the boat due north and firing up the engine. Leinebø zigzags through the floes. A morning satellite feed and special software aid in determining the best route; the ship’s helicopter sometimes scouts 65 or so kilometres ahead, and there’s a sonar called the Sea Ice Monitoring System (SIMS). But mostly Leinebø uses his eyes. “You look for the weakest parts of the ice—you avoid the ridges because that means thickness and instead look for water,” he says. “If the ‘water sky’ in the distance is dark, it’s reflecting water like a mirror, so you head in that direction.” 

Everyone on the bridge is surprised by the lack of multi-year ice, but with more than a hint of disquietude. Though we don’t have to ram our way through frozen ridges, the advance of climate change couldn’t be more apparent. Environmentalists call the Arctic ice sheet the canary in the coal mine of the planet’s climate change for good reason: it is happening here first. “It’s not right,” mutters Leinebø. “There’s just too much open water for July. Really scary.” 

The Arctic ice sheet has shrunk to about half its 1985 size, and as both mariners and scientists on board note, the quality of the ice is deteriorating. “It’s happening faster than our models predicted,” says Marisol Maddox, senior arctic analyst at the Polar Institute of the Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars. “We’re seeing major events like Greenland’s ice sheet melting and sliding into the ocean—that wasn’t forecasted until 2070.” The consensus had been that the Arctic would be ice-free by 2050, but many scientists now expect that day to come in the 2030s. 

That deterioration, it turns out, is why the three teams of scientists are on the voyage—two studying the ice and the other assessing climate change’s impact on plankton. As part of its commitment to sustainability, Ponant has designed two research labs—one wet and one dry—on a lower deck. “We took the advice of many scientists for equipping these labs,” says Hugues Decamus, Charcot’s chief engineer, clearly proud of the nearly US$12 million facilities. 

The combined size of the labs, along with a sonar room, a dedicated server for the scientists, and a meteorological station on the vessel’s top deck, totals 130 square metres—space that could have been used for revenue generation. Ponant also has two staterooms reserved for scientists on each voyage and provides grants for travel expenses. The line doesn’t cherrypick researchers but instead asks the independent Arctic Research Icebreaker Consortium (ARICE) to choose participants based on submissions. 

Birds take flight as passengers explore on a Zodiac excursion.

The idea, says the vessel’s science officer on this voyage, Daphné Buiron, is to make the process transparent and minimise the appearance of greenwashing. “Yes, this alliance may deliver a positive public image for the company, but this ship shows we do real science on board,” she says. The labs will improve over time, adds Decamus, as the ship amasses more sophisticated equipment. 

Research scientists and tourist vessels don’t typically mix. The former, wary of becoming mascots for the cruise lines’ sustainability marketing efforts, and cognisant of the less-than-pristine footprint of many vessels, tend to be wary. The cruise lines, for their part, see scientists as potentially high maintenance when paying customers should be the priority. But there seemed to be a meeting of the minds, or at least a détente, on Le Commandant Charcot. 

“We discuss this a lot and are aware of the downsides, but also the positives,” says Franz von Bock und Polach, head of the institute for ship structural design and analysis at Hamburg University of Technology, specialising in the physics of sea ice. Not only does Charcot grant free access to these remote areas, but the ship will also collect data on the same route multiple times a year with equipment his team leaves on board, offering what scientists prize most: repeatability. “One transit doesn’t have much value,” he says. “But when you measure different seasons, regions and years, you build up a more complex picture.” So, more than just a research paper: forecasts of ice conditions for long-term planning by governments as the Arctic transforms. 

Nils Haëntjens, from the University of Maine, is analysing five-millilitre drops of water on a high-tech McLane IFCB microscope. “The instrument captures more than 250,000 images of phytoplankton along the latitudinal transect,” he says. Charcot has doors in the wet lab that allow the scientists to take water samples, and in the bow, inlets take in water without contaminating it. Two freezers can preserve samples for further research back in university labs. 

Even though the boat won’t stop, the captain and chief engineer clearly want to make the science missions work. Marchesseau dispatches the helicopter with the researchers and their gear 100 kilometres ahead, where they take core samples and measurements. I spot them in their red snowsuits, pulling sleds on an ice floe, as the boat passes. Startled to see living-colour humans on the ice after days of monochrome, I feel a pang of jealousy as I head for a caviar tasting. 

The only other humans we encounter on the journey north are aboard Fifty Years of Victory, the Russian icebreaker. The 160-metre orange- and-black leviathan reached the North Pole a day earlier—its 59th visit—and is on its way back to Murmansk. It’s a classic East meets West moment: the icebreaker, launched just after the collapse of the Soviet Union, meeting the new standard of polar luxury. 

The evening before Bastille Day, Le Commandant Charcot arrives at the North Pole. Because of the pinpoint precision of the GPS, Marchesseau has to navigate back and forth for about 20 minutes—with a bridge full of passengers hushing each other so as not to distract him—until he finds 90 degrees north. That final chaotic approach to the top of the world in the grey, windswept landscape looks like a kid’s Etch A Sketch on the chartplotter, but it is met with rousing cheers. The next morning, with good visibility and light winds, we spill out onto the ice for the celebration, followed by a polar plunge. 

As guests pose in front of flags and mile markers for major cities, the naturalist guides, armed with rifles, establish a wide perimeter to guard against polar bears. The fearless creatures are highly intelligent, with razor-sharp teeth, hooked claws and the ability to sprint at 40 km/h. Males average about three metres tall and weigh around 700 kilos. They are loners that will kill anything—including other bears and even their own cubs. Cathy and I walk around the far edges of the perimeter to enjoy some solitude. Looking out over the white landscape, I know this is a milestone. But it feels odd that getting here didn’t involve any sweat or even a modicum of discomfort. 

Kayaking around an ice floe.

The rest of the week is an entirely different trip. On the return south, we see a huge male polar bear ambling on the ice, looking over his shoulder at us. It is our first sighting of the Arctic’s apex predator, and everyone crowds the observation lounge with long-lensed cameras. The next day, we see another male, this one smaller, running away from the ship. “They have many personalities,” says Steiner Aksnes, head of the expedition team, who has led scientists and film crews in the Arctic for 25 years. We see a dozen on the return to Svalbard, where 3,000 are scattered across the archipelago, outnumbering human residents. 

The last five days we make six stops on different islands, travelling by Zodiac from Charcot to various beaches. On Lomfjorden, as we look on a hundred yards from shore, a mother polar bear protects her two cubs while a young male hovers in the background. On a Zodiac ride off Alkefjellet, the air is alive with birds, including tens of thousands of Brünnich’s guillemots as well as glaucous gulls and kittiwakes, which nest in that island’s cliffs, while a young male polar bear munches on a ring seal, chin glistening red. 

On this part of the trip, the expedition team, mostly 30-something, free-spirited scientists whose areas of expertise range from botany to alpine trekking to whales, lead hikes across different landscapes. The jam-packed schedule sometimes involves three activities per day and includes following the reindeer on Palanderbukta, seeing a colony of 200 walruses on Kapp Lee, hiking the black tundra of Burgerbukta (boasting 3.8-cm-tall willows—said to be the smallest trees in the world and the largest on Svalbard—plus mosquitoes!), watching multiple species of whales breaching offshore, and kayaking the ice floes of Ekmanfjorden. Svalbard is a protected wilderness area, and the cruise lines tailor their schedules so vessels don’t overlap, giving visitors the impression they are setting foot on virgin land. 

Chances to experience that sense of discovery and wonder, even slightly stage-managed ones, are dwindling along with the ice sheet and endangered wildlife. If a stunning trip to a frozen North Pole is on your bucket list, the time to go is now.

Suite bedroom with sliding doors leading to private terrace.

PARADIGM SHIP

For those studying polar ice, a berth aboard Le Commandant Charcot is like a winning lottery ticket. “This cruise ship is one of the few resources scientists can use, because nothing else can get there,” says G. Mark Miller, CEO of research-vessel builder Greenwater Marine Sciences Offshore (GMSO) and a former ship captain for the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). “Then factor in 80 percent of scientists who want to go to sea, can’t, because of the shortage of research vessels.” 

Both Ponant and Viking have designed research labs aboard new expedition vessels as part of their sustainability initiatives. “Remote areas like Antarctica need more data—the typical research is just single data points,” says Damon Stanwell-Smith, Ph.D., head of science and sustainability at Viking. “Every scientist says more information is needed.”  The twin sisterships Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris, which travel to Antarctica, Patagonia, the Great Lakes and Canada, have identical 35-square-metre labs, separated into wet and dry areas and fitted out with research equipment. In hangars below are military-grade rigid-hulled inflatables and two six-person yellow submersibles (the pair on Octantis are named John and Paul, while Polaris’s are George and Ringo). Unlike Ponant, Viking doesn’t have an independent association choose scientists for each voyage. Instead, it partners with the University of Cambridge, the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, and NOAA, which send their researchers to work with Viking’s onboard science officers. 

The cigar lounge which also serves speciality spirits.

“Some people think marine research is sticking some kids on a ship to take measurements,” says Stanwell-Smith. “But we know we can do first-rate science—not spin.”  Other cruise lines are also embracing sustainability initiatives, with coral-reef-restoration projects and water-quality measurements, usually in partnership with universities. Just about every vessel has “citizen-scientist” research programs allowing guests the opportunity to count birds or pick up discarded plastic on beaches. So far, Ponant and Viking are the only lines with serious research labs. Ponant is adding science officers to other vessels in its fleet. As part of the initiatives, scientists deliver onboard lectures and sometimes invite passengers to assist in their research. 

Inneq, the ship’s open-air bar.

Given the shortage of research vessels, Stanwell-Smith thinks this passenger-funded system will coexist nicely with current NGO- and government-owned ships. “This could be a new paradigm for exploring the sea,” he says. “Maybe the next generation of research vessels will look like ours.”

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Forever Leather

Furnishings wrapped or accented with classic, cognac-coloured hide create a patina that works with any aesthetic.

By Marni Elyse Katz 17/04/2024

Onsen, Gandia Blasco

As the textile industry makes technological advances, traditional outdoor furniture made from iron, wicker and teak seems ever so throwback-y and, dare we say, inconvenient and even uncomfortable. Gandia Blasco’s Mediterranean roots and architectural approach shine in its Onsen collection of garden furniture. Luxe synthetic-leather straps wrapping a tubular stainless-steel structure paired with long-wearing cushions in a similar shade lend new life to the idea of living with leather outdoors. From about $4,425; soft mat about $620, warm mat about $810; Onsen, Gandia Blasco

Gabri, Bolzan

The pared-down, leggy look of these tripod tables packs a functional punch without foregoing refinement. Designed by Matteo Zorzenoni for Bolzan and made in Italy, the Gabri’s leather-bound frames
 with subtle topstitching and semicircular notches recall desktop accessories of an analog age. The
dark tops with touches of chalky veining are thoroughly of this century: made from neolith stone, they’re temperature-resistant and waterproof, so go ahead and place your martini where you will. Small, about $1,735; large, about $2,603; Bolzan.com

Zenius Lines Giobagnara

Giobagnara’s leather-encased Nespresso machine with vertical- or diamond-quilted detailing is genius in its unfussy application. The leather suits the product; the design channels the look of a luxury Italian sports car. The brand began with the Bagnara family producing household items in 1939, before moving into the luxury realm in the ’70s. Giorgio Bagnara changed its name to B. Home Interiors in 1999 and to the eponymous Giobagnara in 2014. If you like your home appliances with liberal leather detailing, it’s one to follow. About $7,900; Artemest.com

Vague, Tonucci Collection

Fun house–meets-Baroque in this softly symmetrical, wall-mounted mirror that playfully beckons you into another dimension (and will bounce beautiful light around the room). Designed by Viola Tonucci, who took the reins of Tonucci Collection from her father last year, the thick, leather-covered frame introduces architectural interest and a hint of levity to a room, be it traditional or modern. About $8,050; Tonucci.com

DS-707, de Sede

Given Philippe Malouin’s propensity for experimentation, it’s no wonder that Swiss furniture firm de Sede took
a whole new approach in manufacturing Malouin’s DS-707 design. He began by noodling around with foam, folding it this way and that before settling on the serpentine shape. Although the silhouette made de Sede wary—creating it required the team to manipulate leather in a manner that could leave it less supple— the project prevailed with great success. The system itself invites experimentation as customers can configure the components to their heart’s content. From $30,450; deSede.com

 

 

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