A Look At Vacheron Constantin’s Newest Platinum Patrimony Model

When gold isn’t good enough, there’s platinum.

By Victoria Gomelsky 12/05/2020

The new Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date from Vacheron Constantin may well be the ideal dress watch: It’s classic enough to slip beneath the cuff of a shirt, yet distinctive enough to impress horology buffs and newbies alike.

The model is the latest to join the Geneva watchmaker’s 14-year-old “Collection Excellence Platine.” As the name implies, the range includes exceptional models crafted in 950 platinum—look for the collection’s signature “PT 950” symbol on the sandblasted dial between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase and Retrograde Date

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase and Retrograde Date Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

“The Collection Excellence Platine gathers some of the most elegant, refined and sophisticated Vacheron Constantin models in which design and technical qualities are emphasized by the use of platinum for the ‘habillage’ components — such as cases, dials, crown and buckle,” says Christian Selmoni, style and heritage director of Vacheron Constantin. “The use of platinum for Collection Excellence Platine makes full sense in this context as it is the rarest, the noblest, the most precious and durable metal used in haute horlogerie. In addition, platinum is a metal which is particularly difficult to work on, especially when it’s about its polishing and finishing. The result of this quest for the ‘all-platinum’ in all selected timepieces of the Collection Excellence Platine is a very modern expression of our style: monochromatic, sophisticated, discreet yet utterly chic.”

Introduced in 2017 in white and pink gold, the Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date now comes in a 42.5mm platinum case. The noble white metal also appears on the crown, dial and buckle. Even the midnight blue alligator strap is hand-stitched with platinum and silk threads.

Powered by the automatic Manufacture 2460 R31L caliber (which comes with a 40-hour power reserve), the watch has two distinctive features: an elegant moon phase display that appears through a platinum aperture at 6 o’clock and a retrograde pointer-type date display that forms a semi-circle at the top of the dial. Over the past 20 years, the latter complication has become something of a signature for the 245-year-old brand.

Thanks to a transparent sapphire caseback, you can catch a view of the finely finished movement, including a circular-grained mainplate and a 22-carat gold oscillating weight designed to evoke Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross emblem.

The model retails for approx. $103,000 and is available in a limited boutique edition of 50 pieces.

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