This New Watch From Roger Dubuis Puts the Spotlight on Carbon Components

The watchmaker has debuted its first fully carbon watch.

By Carol Besler 03/08/2019

Carbon has been around in modern watchmaking for a while now, most often seen used on cases. But in Roger Dubuis’s new Spider Excalibur Carbon3 not only the case, but also the bracelet and some components of the movement are made from the super-tough material. The advantage of carbon composites is that they are super-light (more than half the weight of titanium), yet highly shock resistant and as strong as steel.


Roger Dubuis Spider Excalibur Carbon3 
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis

Carbon’s special properties make sense for Roger Dubuis, and particularly the Excalibur series, because it allows the watchmaker to go big without the heaviness of a large watch weighing down the wrist and Roger Dubuis is nothing if not big—even CEO Nicola Andreatta admits the word that sums up the company’s DNA best is “excess.” A typical case width is 47mm. Even the brand’s ladies’ watches are no smaller than 36mm, and many are 42mm. Spider Excalibur Carbon3 is 45mm wide and 14.05mm thick.

Carbon is also important because of its tensile strength, which makes compatible with Roger Dubuis’s other specialty: skeletonization. The art of openworking a watch movement is tricky because the goal is to carve away as many of the bridges and plates as possible without losing strength and shock resistance. Using carbon alleviates these concerns. The plate, bridges and tourbillon upper cage of the RD590SQ calibre are all made of carbon.


Roger Dubuis Spider Excalibur Carbon3 Movement 
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis

Another advantage of the material is that it simply looks good. It is formed in layers, giving the hardened material a unique graining pattern that adds depth and dimension, and an interesting marbling effect. The case is actually quite complex. It is carbon, but it is over-moulded with black rubber and has a black DLC titanium caseback. The crown is also titanium, with an over-mould of black rubber and topped with a multi-layer carbon crown cover. The bracelet links are also made of multi-layer carbon. And if that’s too much carbon for one watch, there is also an additional strap available in rubber with red stitching.


Roger Dubuis Spider Excalibur Carbon3 
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis

The watch will be made in an edition of 28 pieces, a typical number for Roger Dubuis, which makes small editions of its skeletonized flying tourbillons. But that’s not the only thing that makes this watch rare. It is made to Poinçon de Genève standards—of the 20 million watches produced in Switzerland each year, only 24,000 bear the Hallmark of Geneva. It guarantees the watch’s mechanical movement has been assembled, cased and adjusted in the Swiss Canton of Geneva.


Roger Dubuis Spider Excalibur Carbon3 
Courtesy of Roger Dubuis

Each component of each section of the movement is individually finished and decorated by hand, and each watch is individually tested and certified in order to guarantee its smooth running, water-resistance and precision.

The finishing is not just aesthetic. It also makes the watch run better, reducing friction and ensuring exceptional durability. Roger Dubuis says it takes 40 per cent longer to produce watches made to Poinçon de Genève standards and all of its watches carry the Hallmark.

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Chopard’s Latest Time Traveller

Arriving in a menacing monochromatic aesthetic.

By Terry Christodoulou

07/04/2021

Robb Review: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

Does a lesser size hold less appeal? In what’s shaping as the year of the pilot at IWC, we take the historic brand’s latest, shrunken chrono for an outing.

By Richard Clune

07/04/2021

Watches & Wonders 2021 (So Far)

Updated daily, acquaint yourself with the finest new releases from the digitised Swiss fair.

By Paige Reddinger, Carol Besler, Victoria Gomelsky

07/04/2021

H. Moser & Cie Just Dropped A New Fumé Dial

With a hand inspired by an eraser.

By Paige Reddinger

06/04/2021

Warhol’s Other Masterpieces

The artist’s eye for fine watches proves he was among the most sophisticated connoisseurs.

By Mark C. O'flaherty

02/04/2021

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe to Robb Report today!

Subscribe today

Stay Connected