Feminine faces shine in Salon showing
Serious sparkles, starry skies, ornate flowers and hammered gold adorned women’s watches at SIHH.
Exquisite, intricate and quite stunning, Cartier’s Trait d’Eclat (above) is an elegant manual-winding white-gold watch incorporating 15 Mozambique rubies (with a total weight of 24.93 carats) plus baguette- and brilliant-cut diamonds. It was one of many highlights in women’s watchmaking to be revealed at the 2017 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).
Independent watchmaker Christophe Claret exhibited a new iteration of the Marguerite timepiece in rose gold, clothed in 600 diamonds and customisable to display a personal message at the press of a pusher.
IWC’s relaunched Da Vinci series (which has cast off the tonneau shape, returning to its more user-friendly round case of the ’80s) included a trio of 36mm automatic moon phase timepieces – two in stainless steel, another in rose gold – each affixed to beautiful Santoni leather straps.
The moon phase complication is far from a rarity in women’s watchmaking, with several shown at this year’s SIHH – ranging from the accessibility of Baume & Mercier’s Promesse in a dainty 34mm steel case with an oval-shaped bezel embellished with two crescent moons of diamonds, to the iconoclastic aesthetic of Urwerk’s mind-bendingly brilliant UR-106 Flower Power.
Meanwhile, Parmigiani’s Tonda 1950 Galaxy eschews a moon phase display in favour of a more recherchérendering of the heavens, its midnight-blue aventurine glass dial suffused with tiny particles of copper that create the effect of stars in the night sky – all surrounded by a diamond-set bezel and rose-gold case.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large features one of watchmaking’s most quixotic complications, a day/night indicator, as well as a discreet programmable chime intended to provide the wearer with a reminder of an important appointment or liaison. It’s available in rose or white gold, the latter with a generous serve of brilliant-cut diamond embellishment.
The lady who’d prefer her glimmer be delivered sans gem-setting would do well to consider Audemars Piguet’s innovative Royal Oak Frosted Gold, the surfaces of which are given a unique finish via the painstaking and ancient ‘Florentine technique’ of gold hammering.
Who said you need jewels to shine on, you crazy diamond?
Subscribe to the Newsletter
Recommended for you
The unique enamelled dial sets the stage for a minimalist masterpiece.
By Carol Besler
May 19, 2022