Six Tailored Moments For Spring

As seen across recent virtual runways, suiting’s staying power is to be embraced.

By Terry Christodoulou 30/09/2020

It’s been spun across the years now – the alleged demise of tailoring.

And yet, despite the hordes claiming hoodies as menswear’s future, it never does eventuate.

Again, at various spring fashion showings, most presented virtually, suiting’s endurance was again strutting proudly.

Here, six worthy of a spring fling.

Dunhill Men’s Spring 2021

Dunhill Men’s Spring 2021

Mark Weston’s Dunhill takes the polished aesthetic of the label and rebuilds it with a renewed focus on construction. The British show arrived with layered, tailored garments in materials like Holland linen – normally reserved for pocket construction – now sported externally in relaxed, warm-weather silhouettes.

Dunhill.com

Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Spring 2021

Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Spring 2021

Unlike Italian tailoring powerhouses like Canali and Armani, Ferragamo has held a streetwear lean its last few years. However, with a technicolour theme, the spring collection sees softly constructed suits, slick leather jackets and tailored raincoats for a sartorial refresh in seasonal hues of muted yellows and greens against pops of red.

Salvatoreferragamo.com

Valentino RTW Spring 2021

Valentino RTW Spring 2021

The coed collection by Pierpaolo Piccioli is imbued by flowers, lace and ruching – so where does tailoring fit in? Well, soft-shouldered oversized blazers worn over origami folded shirts and billowy shorts arrive in clean, solid colours – a world away from suiting’s buttoned-up and stiff image.

Valentino.com

Giorgio Armani RTW Spring 2021

Giorgio Armani RTW Spring 2021

Armani’s eponymous label has again delivered an expression of timelessness. This spring sees dreamy daywear delivered in soft, casual, crinkled tailoring in pyjama silhouettes and blue tones – a gateway garment to lift you beyond the pandemic loungewear. Elsewhere, eveningwear sees a serious palette of deep navy blues and takes on sharper, more sculptural forms.

Armani.com

Neil Barrett Men’s Spring 2021

The British designer went back to his roots to deliver a collection filled with clean silhouettes, restrained colours – comprised of white, black, beige and navy – developing a new, modern uniform. Here, workwear-inspired blazers meet soft tailoring and are paired with Bermuda pants. It’s wearable, functional clothing presented in a highly edited format.

Neilbarrett.com

A-Cold-Wall Men’s Spring 2021

A Cold Wall Men’s Spring 2021

Following January’s suited Milanese collection, Samuel Ross’ latest means perfectly cut suits alongside raincoats and field jackets in a collection that rides the line between Ross’ grown-up efforts and the label’s utilitarian roots. It lands with collarless, knitted overcoats and an off the shoulder blazer in a style Ross describes as “the future of Millennial and Gen Z menswear.”

a-cold-wall.com

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