Sustainability has not, historically speaking, been fashion’s strong suit. The industry’s standard practices are notorious for their negative impact on the environment, from overproduction that sees around 70 per centof textiles wind up in landfills or flames to textile manufacturing that requires excessive amounts of water while yielding significant pollutants. While the blame is often placed on fast-fashion retailers (and they are certainly the biggest offenders) these are issues that even the biggest names in luxury have to reconcile. But, particularly as global warming becomes an unavoidable crisis, some brands are taking a different approach entirely.
That’s one of the reasons why Pitti Uomo—menswear’s most important trade show—is using its virtual format to highlight a new guard of designers for whom eco-consciousness is a guiding principle. The Sustainable Style is a series of videos on Pitti’s digital platform profiling 14 young brands taking a greener approach in everything from choosing buttons to packaging. The diverse, international group, curated by Italian fashion journalist Giorgia Cantarini, demonstrates the many guises that sustainable fashion can take. Here, meet a few of menswear’s up-and-coming eco-warriors.
PHOTO: Y/PROJECT
Y/Project
Since he began as creative director in 2013, Glenn Martens has made Y/Project one of Paris fashion’s buzziest brands (including winning one of the industry’s top honours, the ANDAM grand prize, in 2017). Martens’s signature is experimental designs that are often transformable. In this video, he introduces “Evergreen,” a collection of the brand’s greatest hits produced exclusively using 100 per cent sustainable materials, down to the copper rivets.
PHOTO: RAEBURN
Raeburn
British designer Christopher Raeburn has championed re-purposed materials since he started out in 2009, transforming surplus military textiles into modern menswear with a utilitarian edge. In this video, he elaborates on the three R’s that define his brand: reusing existing materials, reducing waste and recycling existing garments—most notably in his new collection of re-worked vintage military gear.
PHOTO: PHILIP HUANG
Philip Huang
Philip Huang’s route to sustainability is very personal; his designs celebrate (and employ) people who practice traditional crafts in his native Thailand, particularly the indigo dyers of the Isan region. In this especially eye-opening video, Huang provides a tour of the rural community he works with and their techniques for using centuries-old plant-based dyes and old school weaving.
PHOTO: YOUNG N SANG
Young N Sang
For South Korean designers Youngshin and Sanglim, sustainability translates to a dedication to upcycled fabrics. This duo hand-weave their own textiles from erstwhile garments, creating artful new materials. Here, they show how they craft their unique textiles and preview their latest collection, photographed on one of their grandfathers.
PHOTO: NANUSHKA
Nanushka
Based in Budapest, Nanushka does decidedly contemporary fashion with a reverence for vintage style. Inherent in that aesthetic is an appreciation for timeless design, which is just one of the sustainable practices that, along with things like eschewing plastic for organic materials and employing women in a rural Hungarian village, make Nanushka a model of conscientious design. Here, designer Sandra Sandor describes her approach.
PHOTO: PHIPPS
Phipps
After beginning his career working for the likes of Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten, designer Spencer Phipps launched his owned label in 2018. Since then, he’s built a reputation for masculine designs that tread lightly on the environment. In this video, he discusses how his personal passion for outdoor adventuring fuels his sense of responsibility to nature.
PHOTO: KIDSOFBROKENFUTURE
Kidsofbrokenfuture
As its name suggests, Kidsofbrokenfuture has a youthful, rebellious streak. Designers Marta Sanchez and Elbio Bonsaglio mine subcultures for inspiration, proving that sustainable fashion can be cool, first and foremost. In this video, they describe their brand and practices including donating a portion of proceeds to Street Child, an organisation that provides education and essential services to at-risk youths.
PHOTO:RYAN SIMO/MYAR
Myar
Italian brand Myar is, in concept, similar to Raeburn in that it specializes in revamping existing military apparel. The results, however, have an entirely different attitude. Here, designer Andrea Rosso describes how he sources his vintage materials and employs further sustainable initiatives like using natural dyes and biodegradable packaging.
PHOTO : UNIFORME
Uniforme
Parisian brand Uniforme is dedicated to reinterpreting utilitarian workwear staples, refining the silhouettes and elevating them with thoughtful craftsmanship. Here, designers Hugues Fauchard and Rémi Bats discuss how they prioritise sustainable choices throughout the production process, including utilising workshops within three hours of their headquarters and recycled fabrics like Econyl.
PHOTO: VITELLI
Vitelli
Vitellimarries traditional Italian craftsmanship with the irreverence of the nation’s street culture. Focused on knitwear, the brand almost exclusively uses repurposed and deadstock materials—but in surprisingly unique ways, like embroidering an existing silk fabric to create a new kind of knit. In this video, designer Mauro Simionato articulates his vision.
PHOTO: KSENIA SCHNAIDER
Ksenia Schnaider
The husband-and-wife team behind Ukrainian denim brand Ksenia Schnaider comb the secondhand markets of Kiev to source materials for their own collection—recycling around 10 tonnes of fabric each year. Here, the designers explain their process.
PHOTO : FLAVIA LA ROCCA
Flavia La Rocca
While production choices play a big part in sustainability, they’re just one piece of a larger move toward a greener lifestyle. Italian brand Flavia La Rocca emphasises the role of design in sustainability, promoting a modular wardrobe of pieces that can be mixed and matched ad (relative) infinitum. Here, the designer explains how her designs inherently cut down on waste.
PHOTO : NOUS ETUDIONS
Nous Etudions
Nous Etudion‘s Argentinian designer Romina Cardillo favours a futuristic, genderless aesthetic produced using responsible, cruelty-free materials. Her commitment to sustainability earned her a collaboration with Nike, which saw her design the sportswear titan’s first pair of vegan shoes. In this video, Cardillo outlines her approach and goals like establishing a research centre for bio-textiles.
PHOTO: VIRÓN
Virón
French footwear brand Virónutilises plant-based materials to create fashion-minded kicks that’ll sate sneaker-heads with a conscience. While this video doesn’t have much as far as the brand’s backstory, it succinctly captures Virón’s hip, punkish vibe.
Always an unmissable highlight of the automotive calendar, Robb Report ANZ’s annual motoring awards set a new benchmark among glorious Gold Coast tarmac.
Over two unforgettable days, our motoring sages and VIP guests embarked on an exhilarating journey from Surfers Paradise to Brisbane and back again—traversing an irresistible selection of terrain in our exotic rides, from deserted rainforest-lined b-roads to testing mountain switchbacks with dizzying—sometimes heart-in-mouth—views over the southern Queensland peninsula. And as befitting an event starring the crème de la crème of auto marques, we did so while savouring the best in luxury and gastronomy—capped off with an extraordinary superyacht experience at Sanctuary Cove.
The ten contenders for the Car of the Year were not the only dream machines on show. The first day’s adventure kicked off at the Langham Hotel and included a midday pit stop at the glorious Beechmont Estate, where our fleet of drivers were greeted by a stunning array of vintage cars exhibited in a concours d’elegance-style display.
Concours d’elegance-style vintage car show at the Beechmont Estate.
The sumptuous feast for the eyes on offer at Beechmont, a quaint country village located between the Lamington Plateau and Tamborine Mountain, was followed by a meal for the ages prepared by executive chefs Chris and Alex Norman at the property’s hatted restaurant, The Paddock.
Fine dining at The Paddock.
Then, itching to remount our steeds, it was time to hit the road again, with our drivers—all sporting Onitsuka Tiger’s new driving shoes—hightailing it to Brisbane and The Calile Hotel, a property which has been scooping accolades like Jay Leno collects supercars.
Rolls-Royce Spectre
After some much needed relaxation by the pool, that evening the drivers and press were joined by local luminaries in the hotel’s private dining room. Over an extravagant banquet they got to compare notes on marvels of engineering and design that they’d had the chance to pilot all day. They were also treated to a showcase of spectacular Jacob & Co. timepieces and Hardy Brothers jewellery and an elegant sufficiency of 40-year Glenfiddich whiskey served in gold cups worth $60,000 a pop. It made for animated discussions and more than a little impromptu shopping.
Rivera Yachts 6800 Sport Yacht Platinum Edition
And did we mention the luxury yacht experience? After a full itinerary of adventures on the road, the day ended with an invigorating late-afternoon of luxuriating aboard two new Riviera Yacht releases—the 6800 Sport Yacht and the 585 SUV—where our intrepid drivers and assorted press got to literally and figuratively take their hands off the wheel and make a case for their car of the year. As the forthcoming pages attest, they were more than spoiled for choice. But who would take centre stage on the winners’ podium?
After the seemingly never-ending hype around steel sports watches, dress watches have been making a comeback. But it’s not just the average 42 mm dress watch that’s sparking interest (although, those too, are in the running), but also funky vintage diamond-accented timepieces or small-sized, almost feminine pieces are trending. Recently, actor Paul Mescal was spotted on the red carpet of the Annual Academy Museum Gala wearing a Cartier Tank Mini with his tux, while sports legend Dwyane Wade wore a 28 mm diamond Tiffany & Co. Eternity watch with his black tie ensemble to the same event. While these guys were wearing dress watches in their intended setting, here we show you how to make a dress watch work for casual weekend wear too.
Try dabbling in unexpected pairings like an army green Ghiaia safari jacket with a vintage Chopard Happy Diamonds timepiece or Breguet Classique Ref. 7147 (the ultimate dressy timekeeper) with a Louis Vuitton sweatsuit and a Brioni overcoat. Anything goes these days and the more unexpected the timepiece, the stronger the statement. It’s good news all around—for your wardrobe and your investments in the vault.
Above: Blancpain39.7 mm Villeret Ultraplate in 18-karat red gold, $69,675; Tod’sfaux-shearling and denim jacket, $5,6859; Tom Ford cashmere and silk turtleneck, $2,535.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MATALLINA. WATCH EDITOR, PAIGE REDDINGER. FASHION DIRECTOR, ALEX BADIA. STYLE EDITOR, NAOMI ROUGEAU.
Jaeger-LeCoultre40 mm Reverso One Duetto Jewellery in 18-karat pink gold and diamonds, $79,560. Right: Chopard32 mm vintage Happy Diamonds in 18-karat white gold and diamonds, $19,930, analogshift.com; Ghiaiacotton safari jacket, $1,426; Etoncotton T-shirt, 358; Hermèsdenim trousers, $1,674.
Audemars Piguet 34 mm vintage automatic ultrathin watch in 18-karat white gold and diamonds, $9,300, classicwatchny.com. Right: Cartier 41.4 mm Tortue in platinum, $35,600, limited to 200; Gabriela Hearst hand-knit cashmere sweater, $2,500; Officine Générale cotton-poplin shirt, $315.
Breguet40 mm Classique Ref. 7147 in 18-karat white gold, $37,468; Brioniwool and cashmere overcoat, $12,233, and silk knit crewneck sweater, $2,224; Louis Vuittonwool track pants, $2,120, and wool hooded jacket, $5,002. Right: Patek Philippe39 mm Calatrava Ref. 6119R-001 in 18-karat rose gold, $52,791.
Piaget45 mm Andy Warhol in 18-karat rose gold, $69,198. Right: Rolex29 mm vintage King Midas Ref. 4342 in 18-karat yellow gold, $28,301, classicwatchny.com; Brunello Cucinelli denim shirt, $1,586; Tom Fordcotton chinos, $1,259; Berluti leather belt, $1,132.
Model: Arthur Sales Grooming: Amanda Wilson Senior market editor and casting: Luis Campuzano Photo director: Irene Opezzo Photo assistant: Alejandro Suarez Prop stylist: Elizabeth Derwin
Some brand stories come so swathed in lashings of romance, it’s hard to know where to begin. Ask Andrew Doyle, founder of luxury knitwear brand Formehri, and he’ll tell you that the true essence of his company lies in its name— or, rather, its namesake: his wife, Mehri.
“The story of our brand is really the story of our family,” Doyle says. The two now have three children, having met in their twenties while working for the same company. “We were on our honeymoon, I think, 11 years ago, and she made a passing comment that it was her dream to live in the south of France. I don’t know why, but I decided there and then that I was going to make it happen for her.”
Now, Doyle splits his time jet-setting between Monaco and Sydney, but he was born and raised among the more prosaic pastures of Canberra, working for much of his twenties and thirties building a successful finance recruitment company. Having taken an interest in menswear from an early age, he spent most of that time moonlighting as one of the internet’s OG menswear bloggers under the moniker Timeless Man. The site gravitated towards covering smaller, artisanal producers, eschewing big brands and splashy catwalk shows in favour of those making bespoke garments and accessories with an emphasis on quality over quantity.
“I did it for free for a decade,” he recalls. “I was always drawn to craftspeople who were creating something authentic and product driven. I would save up my money, go have these people make me a jacket and write about the process. I just found it so interesting. Pretty soon I started thinking that I’d love to do this myself.”
One would expect a chance meeting in, say, Paris or Florence to be the scenario in which Doyle got his look-in. Rather, it was on a dusty salt flat in Bolivia where, while on holiday with his wife, an opportunity presented itself to him. There, taking in the near-overwhelming silence of the Salar de Uyuni, he was reminded of nearby farmers raising vicuña: a pint-sized relative of the Alpaca prized for its ultrafine wool.
“I’d first learned about vicuña some years earlier,” Doyle says. “A contact of mine had paid John Cutler something like $50,000 to make a vicuña overcoat for him, so once I got back to La Paz I asked him to put me in touch with the local producers here.” Vicuña wool, for the uninitiated, is among the most prized fabrics in the world, orders of magnitude lighter and finer than merino or cashmere. Endemic to remote, high-altitude plateaus throughout the Andes, most vicuña are wild-farmed and, being slow-growing, hand-sheared just once every three years. Most fleeces are bought in bulk by a well-known luxury knitwear brand that, for reasons that will soon become apparent, shall remain nameless.
Back in the Bolivian capital, Doyle met with someone representing the nation’s rural community of vicuña farmers. There, he learned of the mass exploitation taking place, not just in Bolivia but across other South American countries. Despite the price of vicuña garments steadily rising, the wholesale prices paid to producers for their wool has dropped by a third in the last decade—an issue that, for those inclined to do a quick Google search, has seen our nameless brand hauled in front of a US Congressional caucus.
Aussie entrepreneur Andrew Doyle in Monaco.
“They’re pretty seriously impoverished,” says Doyle. “They’re very isolated. They’re up on this plateau, really struggling day to day. Meanwhile these big brands are buying up the bulk of the wool—which is not cheap—and yet the farmers are seeing almost none of the profits. That’s when all the pieces came together for Mehri and me. We said: ‘This is it.’”
“I think it was even the next day,” he continues, “I got back in touch with them and said: ‘What if we start a company that can make the finest product in the world and we’ll give you 10 percent of everything we make in profit?’ And they just said, ‘That’s exactly what we’ve been looking for.’ As the story evolved, I felt 10 percent wasn’t enough. So now we reserve 10 percent for communities in South America, and then another 10 percent for a range of charities around both Monaco [where Andrew Doyle has a factory] and Africa, with a focus on people who really need it.”
This is, of course, all just empty talk without the product to back it up. And while Formehri is still very much a brand in its larval stage, the quality of its garments is rapidly garnering acclaim. The brand’s core range revolves around sweaters and cardigans, spun at a family-owned mill in Bologna and hand-finished in Monaco—made to order and priced accordingly. Formehri’s sweaters start at around $7,500, its shawl-neck cardigans tipping the fiscal scales at around $21,900.
Already, this plucky upstart is turning heads in the right circles. The brand recently completed a trunk show at London’s Baudoin & Lange and has recently begun a residency at famed Parisian tailors Camps de Luca. “We met Andrew many years ago as a client,” founder Julien De Luca tells us. “The philosophy behind Formehri is very similar to our own vision of craftsmanship. Formehri understands craftsmanship, patience and the time necessary to create not just a garment, but a story and a distinct moment behind each piece. Formehri goes far beyond a brand—it comes from a man truly dedicated to excellence.”
Neither the Honourable Charles Rolls nor Sir Henry Royce were car guys, not initially anyway. First and foremost, they were electricity men, apostles of the current. The former’s obsession flowered early; aged nine, the young Brit was already toying with this burgeoning fin de siecle phenomenon, mounting electrical rigs at the family’s ancestral pile in Wales. At the same time, a grown-up Royce was busy earning his entrepreneurial chops, heading a thriving enterprise in Manchester that made small domestic appliances—doorbells, lamps, fuses and the like.
It is, then, little wonder the pair were early electric-car adopters, experimenting with the energy after launching their nascent automobile company in 1904. Though electricity eventually lost out to combustion in the arm-wrestle for early-20th-century tech supremacy, anyone who has ever sat in or steered the Rolls-Royce Spectre—the marque’s first fully electric ultra-luxury coupe—will tell you that the 120 years it has taken for the company to disrupt the entire industry has been worth the wait. Revenge is sweet. And silent.
Rolls-Royce’s “magic carpet ride” has been synonymous with the brand since debuting in 2003’s Phantom VII, but the sensation of deep-space-like serenity has been compounded to the nth degree in the absence of oil power (though, admittedly, few Rolls-Royces throughout history can be described as rowdy). On occasion, one almost feels transcendentally detached from the current time dimension, as the Planar Suspension System’s cameras scan tarmac conditions ahead—adjusting settings in real time to proffer maximum comfort—and the vehicle’s aerodynamic silhouette makes a quiet mockery of wind resistance and other established laws of physics.
Factor in that other meditative proprietary feature, the Starlight Headliner, which projects 4,796 fibre-optic stars onto the roof and two doors, and before long the Spectre is morphing into something beyond a mere automobile—echoes of a life-affirming business-class-jet flight, flashes of sub-orbital-spacecraft awe.
Other determinants tipped the balance in the Spectre’s favour when the time came for our judges to nail their sails to the mast: the cabin’s handcrafted wood, leather and metal detailing; the optional Champagne Chest for pure, unabashed extravagance of it all; and those 23-inch wheels, the first time Rolls has fitted this size to a coupe since 1920s, lend the vehicle an air of Great Gatsby meets late-’90s hip-hop cool.
Most of all, however, the Spectre takes centre position on this year’s podium for broader, existential reasons. Because when the history of post-Prius electric motoring is eventually written, the production of this EV will surely be recognised as a hill-cresting moment in technology, a landmark in modern engineering, the exact point when the power struggle between electricity and combustion erred towards the new-but-old energy. The best Rolls-Royce ever? Maybe. The best EV ever? You know it.
So, Spectre: take the podium, wear the wreath, pop the Dom P—the world is yours.
In Italy, beauty is not optional, it is demanded. This is a nation whose fashion houses treat clothing as high art; a people to whom hand-rolling individual pasta pieces into decorative shapes is an artisanal obsession; a country that employs polizia who’ve been plucked straight from the Milanese catwalks… or that is how it seems.
Cars are, of course, not immune from Italy’s rat-race of beautification, and to stand out in the company of auto aestheticians like Ferrari, Lamborghini and Alfa Romeo is no cinch—and yet this year Maserati managed to do so with the Gran Turismo, a sculpted, long-hooded fastback (hand-built in the motherland, natch) that will keep Modena’s chiropractors minted for the model’s life term, given how many unprepared Tuscan neck muscles will be craning as this peach homes sashays by.
While surface-level joy can be had swooning at the Gran Turismo, the allure runs deeper than just elegant lines and sexy rims. The interior hosts a quiet riot of high-end materials—leather, carbon fibre, Alcantara—which collude to create the refined cabin tableau.
Comeliness aside, it would be churlish, and vaguely vacuous, not to mention what a beguilling motor this Maserati is. Rivals in the GT firmament may flex more raw power, but few will be able clock the big testosterone numbers with such composure—like a manicured Donna di Classe whose immaculately quaffed hair refuses to be ruffled in the wind. Even so, its 0-100 km/h sprint time of 2.7 seconds stands as one of the best in class.
Ultimately, there is good reason why grand tourer cars tend to be the purest expression of automotive beauty: their modus operandi is delivering long, comfortable, cross-country journeys with panache—and no one wants to squander life’s precious hours in an ugly car, not least an Italian.