Five Design Trends Set to Dominate 2020

From the experiential over the tangible to harnessing global problems as solutions, take a look at the current trends that will define tomorrow’s zeitgeist.

By Mark Hooper 09/01/2020

Plastic as a solution

With the debate over single-use plastic still dominating the agenda, the narrative has shifted towards how the design community can affect meaningful change – and even promote plastic as
a solution, rather than a problem.

Milanese gallerist Rossana Orlandi’s ‘Guiltless Plastic’ competition at Istituto Marangoni during London Design Festival offered a fascinating insight into how plastic waste can be processed in a more cost-, time- and energy-efficient manner; how to incorporate fully recyclable materials without negatively impacting on aesthetics; the repurposing of household waste for building cladding; and ways to incorporate contaminated complex plastics back into the cycle.

This follows the ongoing work by University College London’s Plastic Waste Innovation Hub, part of a wider EPSRC-funded project (Designing-Out Plastic Waste), which takes a system design approach to plastic waste, calling on a UCL team of experts alongside staff, students, industry professionals, policy-makers, government, waste management, charities and the public to tackle
the plastic waste problem. 

As always, the most elegant proposals are the simplest: such as James Shaw’s work in re-purposed plastic that embraces the approach that the waste itself can be a valuable raw material.

This echoes initiatives in the world of fashion, such as Christopher Raeburn’s pioneering ‘Remade, Reduced, Recycled’ mantra – reworking surplus materials and products into completely new designs, minimising waste, and harnessing green technologies and sustainable materials.

“I think as a designer you have an obligation to consider what you are doing and why,” he says. “Ultimately, we want to make strong, sustainable choices that provide our customers with a completely unique and desirable product.” On a more scientific front, biodesign expert Natsai Audrey Chieza applies the academic rigour of ‘critical design thinking’ to the sustainability issue, having already developed a ‘homegrown’ range with Stella McCartney – reminiscent of furniture designer Sebastian Cox’s experiments in using mycelium fungi structures as bonding agents in his products.

Even the big brands are experimenting in fully recyclable products: witness the Futurecraft Loop sneaker from Adidas, fashioned from a single ‘virgin’ plastic (TPU, or thermosplastic polyurethane) that can be ground up and reused…

Design as experience

The line between art installation and design is becoming more and more blurred: witness some of the more eye-catching showcases at London Design Festival, such as Take The Plunge by Volume Creative in collaboration with Virgin Voyages, a playful interactive installation at the Bargehouse in the city’s Oxo Tower Wharf intended to highlight the power of design to evoke curiosity. Visitors are invited to step into an endless horizon, eventually entering a space that depicts a sunset under the sea.

The effect is reminiscent of the work of Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson, whose career retrospective at London’s Tate Modern (until 5 January, 2020) highlights the interlinking crossover between design, engineering and art in producing immersive experiences.

Similarly, VOID by Dan Tobin Smith + The Experience Machine in partnership with Gemfields uses large-scale projections of the mineral formations within rubies and emeralds, enlarged until they give the visitor the impression of travelling through abstract, galaxy-like structures in the multi-sensory spatial installation, including the harmonised layers of female electronic drone choir NYX.

Disco Carbonara

Meanwhile, Disco Carbonara by Martino Gamper offered up the false facade of a disco using traditional cladding from the Italian Alps at Coal Drops Yard in King’s Cross, inspired by the story of Potemkin village – a fake portable village built to impress Empress Catherine II by her lover Grigory Potemkin in 1787.

Surface fakery

Don’t call it fake news: experiments in surface texture and printing processes are resulting in a trend for products that aren’t quite what they seem.

The leather design specialist Bill Amberg has developed a new, refined process for digitally printing on leather hides, allowing creatives from other disciplines to transfer their designs onto a material that they may never previously have considered.

Among the new Bill Amberg Print collection are intriguing collaborations with Marcel Wanders, Calico Wallpaper, Champalimaud, Solange Azagury-Partridge, Lisa Miller and Matthew Day Jackson.

Jackson’s 1969 series, in particular, highlights the versatility of this technique – with a faithful recreation of the surface of the far side of the moon, produced using the original imagery from NASA. The work is an extension of his Kolho collection in association with Finnish design company Made by Choice and the Formica Group, in which he produced a topographically accurate 3D veneer for a furniture collection, which he also designed himself.

Bringing a sense of mischievous playfulness to contemporary fabrics and wallpapers, Scottish designers Timorous Beasties are no strangers to controversy. Wickedly funny twists on classic traditions, disorientating trompe l’oeil effects, designs inspired to look like different materials or covered in blotches and spills – even a range inspired by the classic Rorschach psychological test – everything is fair game.

Applying a similar approach to product design, architecture and experiential installations, New York-based collaborative practice Snarkitecture have become the darlings of the Instagram generation, thanks to experimental projects like The Beach, a touring installation in which 750,000 recyclable plastic balls were used to create a ball pit for adults. Their recent Hall of Broken Mirrors at the Design Museum Holon, Israel, creates the illusion of reflection within parallel spaces.

Colourshock

No design collection is worth it’s salt this season without a shock of cartoonish primary colour. Renowned for her bright, bold designs, French-born Camille Walala has transformed public spaces from Mauritius to New York through her Memphis-inspired sculptural 3D street furniture and architecture. Her Walala Lounge in London’s Mayfair district brought a typical splash of colour
to the UK’s capital.

Similarly, British-based Yinka Ilori is making a name for himself thanks to the way he employs a colourful, graphic style inspired by the traditional Nigerian parables and African prints that surrounded him as a child. His Colour Palace with architects Pricegore for the second Dulwich Pavilion is a 10-metre-high structure inspired by the buzz of fabric in markets in Lagos. His furniture, available to buy from Bluebird, London, often offers rug-from-under-the-feet moments, such as his range of chairs with backs, spindles and supports placed illogically (putting the ‘disco’ into discombobulating?).

Domus, meanwhile, has teamed up with Dutch designer Hella Jongerius, known for her studies of colour across varying materials, to produce Diarama, a tile collection from Mutina that offers a confident chromatic palette, creating an array of shades by applying glaze across various coloured bases.

Mutina Tile Display

British illustrator and designer Luke Edward Hall, meanwhile, continues to capture the spirit of Jean Cocteau through his deceptively simple line drawing style, with a range of bright and pastel shades applied to objects from tiles to slippers to furniture. You only need to glance at his list of high-profile collaborations to see how in demand he is – witness his recent Il Viaggio di Nettuno range at Richard Ginori for his classicism-meets-pop art approach.

Equally adept at juxtaposing styles from wildly different eras (19th century brown wood furniture meets Memphis, anyone?), Milan-based design duo Dimore Studio have embraced vibrant colour for their Progetto Palmador Series, including the Big One table, in glossy poli lacquered wood, featuring coloured geometric patterns and 20 micron silver-plated brass inlays; while stark red-and-white stripes add a sense of Italian holiday chic to their outdoor furniture.

Value In Storytelling

The ongoing demand for heritage, authenticity and craftsmanship in contemporary design has seen some slightly jarring bandwagon-hopping. But for those who aren’t prepared to cut corners, narrative and storytelling can add value to a piece. Take, for instance, London’s Sarah Myerscough Gallery – one of the prime movers in elevating craft to the level of art.

There is a buzz around many of the artists she represents – including the elemental wooden sculptures of Nic Webb, the tradition-meets-technology creations of Gareth Neal, the weathered, geological ceramic designs of Aneta Regel and the totemic works of Ernst Gamperl.

Gamperl is also a past winner of the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize – another sign of how the world of luxury brands and worthier-than-thou craftsmanship are converging. This year’s winner of the prize, Genta Ishizuka, combines ancient lacquer techniques dating back to 7th-century Japan with contemporary form-making, breaking long-held conventions along the way.

Also notable are the lunar-like ceramic surfaces of potter Akiko Hirai, artist Harry Morgan’s combination of glass and concrete and Annie Turner’s incredible, delicate ceramic sculptures which resemble latticed netting. Italian maker Giovanni Corvaja, who uses 18-karat gold as his raw material, transformed into hair-like strands that are then spun to produce impossibly ethereal bowls, is also defying the norms of material expectation.

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Escape from the Ordinary

Ponant, the luxury cruise line known for its meticulously planned itineraries and high-end service, ups the ante on their upcoming European Journeys that promise an unrivalled exploration of the Mediterranean.

By Robb Report Team 19/02/2024

Not all cruises are created equally. Ponant, the luxury cruise line known for its meticulously planned itineraries and high-end service, ups the ante on their upcoming European Journeys that promise an unrivalled exploration of the Mediterranean. From the stunning Amalfi Coast to the pristine Greek Islands, the narrow Corinth Canal to the picturesque Dalmatian coast, historic Istanbul and beguiling Malaga, each destination is a unique adventure waiting to be unravelled. With Ponant, these aren’t just locations on a map; they’re experiences that come alive with the intimate knowledge and insight that their expert guides provide.

Ponant’s luxury cruises are renowned for their individuality, with no two journeys the same. This is not by chance. Itineraries are scrupulously designed to ensure that each passenger is left with a feeling of having embarked on a journey unlike any other.

Athens-Venise. Photograph by N.Matheus. ©PONANT

In 2025, their fleet will set sail for a combined 56 departures from March to October, exploring the dreamy locales of Greece and the Greek Islands, Malta, Italy (including Venice and Sicily), Croatia, France, Turkey, Spain and Portugal. These European Journeys offer an intimate encounter with the Mediterranean, its people and culture. As you cruise in luxury, you’ll dive deep into the heart of each destination, exploring historic sites, engaging with locals, sampling scrumptious cuisine and soaking in the vibrant atmospheres.

The company’s small, sustainable ships, which can accommodate from as few as 32 to 264 guests, have the exclusive ability to sail into ports inaccessible to larger cruise liners, affording privileged entry into some of the world’s most treasured alcoves. Picture sailing under London’s iconic Tower Bridge, crossing the Corinth Canal, or disembarking directly onto the sidewalk during ports of call in culturally rich cities like Lisbon, Barcelona, Nice and Venice, among others.

Photo by Tamar Sarkissian. ©PONANT

This singular closeness is further enriched by destination experts who unravel the tapestry of each locale’s history and traditions.

Onboard their luxurious ships, every guest is a VIP and treated to refined service and amenities akin to sailing on a private yacht. Whether at sea or ashore, their destination experts guarantee a fascinating experience, immersing you in the rich cultural and historical diversity of each region.

Indulge in the finest gastronomy at sea, inspired by none other than gastronomic virtuoso and Ponant partner, Alain Ducasse. Each voyage offers an expertly crafted dining experience, from a-la-carte meals with perfectly matched wines by the onboard Sommelier at dinner and lunch, to a French-inspired buffet breakfast, featuring all the favourite pastries, fresh bread and quality produce.

Chef Mickael Legrand. Photograph by NickRains. ©PONANT

For a more intimate discovery, consider Le Ponant, with its 16 high-class staterooms and suites—perfect for private charter—sailing eight exclusive routes between Greece and Croatia, offering guests unparalleled experiences both onboard and ashore. Ponant’s commitment to crafting unforgettable experiences extends beyond itineraries. Aboard their ships, the luxury is in every detail. Unwind in opulent cabins and suites, each offering private balconies and breathtaking views of the azure water and destinations beyond.

Ponant’s upcoming European Journeys are more than just cruises—they’re your passport to a world of cultural immersion, historical exploration, and unrivalled luxury. Don’t miss this opportunity to embark on the voyage of a lifetime: the Mediterranean is calling.

To book European 2025 sailings visit au.ponant.com; call 1300 737 178 (AU) or 0800 767 018 (NZ) or contact your preferred travel agent.

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Saint Laurent Just Opened a New Bookstore in Paris. Here’s a Look Inside.

The chic new outpost is located on the city’s arty Left Bank.

By Rachel Cormack 14/02/2024

Saint Laurent is taking over even more of Paris.

The French fashion house, which only just opened an epic new flagship on Champs-Élysées, has launched a chic new bookstore on the Left Bank. Located in the 7th arrondissement, Saint Laurent Babylone is a mecca of art, music, literature, and, of course, fashion.

The new outpost is a tribute to the connection that Yves Saint Laurent and partner Pierre Bergé had to the Rue Babylone, according to Women’s Wear Daily. (In 1970, the pair moved to a 6,500-square-foot duplex on the street.) It is also inspired by the house’s original ready-to-wear boutique, Saint Laurent Rive Guache, which opened in the 6th arrondissement in 1966.

The exposed concrete in contrasted by sleek marble accents. SAINT LAURENT

With a minimalist, art gallery-like aesthetic, the space is anchored by a hefty marble bench and large black shelves. The raw, textured concrete on the walls is juxtaposed by a soft blue and white rug, a wooden Pierre Jeanneret desk, and sleek Donald Judd stools.

The wares within Saint Laurent Babylone are the most important part, of course. Curated by Saint Laurent’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello, the collection includes everything from photos by British artist Rose Finn-Kelcey to books published by Saint Laurent itself. Some tomes on offer are so rare that white gloves are required for handling.

The store also offers an enviable selection of records that are no longer being pressed. Highlights include Sade’s Promise, Kate Bush’s Hounds of Love, and the debut studio album of electronic band Kraftwerk.

Other notable items on the shelves include Leica cameras, chocolates made in collaboration with pastry chef François Daubinet, prints by Juergen Teller, and brass skull sculptures. You’ll also find an assortment of YSL merch, including pens, lighters, and cups.

To top it off, Saint Laurent Babylone will double as an event space, hosting live music sessions, DJ sets, book readings, and author signings over the coming months.

Saint Laurent’s latest endeavor isn’t exactly surprising. With Vaccarello at the helm, the Kering-owned fashion house has entered new cultural realms. Only last year, the label established a film production company and debuted its first movie at Cannes.

The space is fitted with a Pierre Jeanneret desk and Donald Judd stools.
SAINT LAURENT

Perhaps Saint Laurent film reels and movie posters will soon be available at Babylone, too.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

The Best Watches at the Grammys, From Maluma’s Jacob & Co. to Jon Batiste’s Vacheron Constantin

Music’s biggest names sported some outstanding watches on Sunday evening.

By Rachel Mccormack 08/02/2024

Weird yet wonderful watches punctuated this year’s Grammys.

The woman of the moment, Taylor Swift, who made history by winning Album of the Year for an unprecedented fourth time, wore an unconventional Lorraine Schwartz choker watch to the annual awards ceremony on Sunday night. That was just the tip of the horological iceberg, though.

Colombian singer-songwriter Maluma elevated a classic Dolce & Gabbana suit with a dazzling Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon and a pair of custom, diamond-encrusted Bose earbuds, while American musician Jon Batiste topped off a stylish Versace ensemble with a sleek Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon. Not to be outdone, rapper Busta Rhymes busted out a rare Audemars Piguet Royal Oak for the occasion.

There was more understated wrist candy on display, too, such as Jack Antonoff’s Cartier Tank LC and Noah Kahan’s Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo.

For the rest of the best watches we saw on the Grammys 2024 red carpet, read on.

Maluma: Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon

Maluma busted out some truly spectacular bling for this year’s Grammys. The Colombian singer-songwriter paired a classic Dolce & Gabbana suit with a dazzling Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon and a pair of custom, diamond-encrusted Bose earbuds. The sculptural wrist candy sees a four-arm movement floating in front of a breathtaking dial adorned with no less than 257 rubies. For added pizzaz, the lugs of the 18-karat rose-gold case are invisibly set with 80 baguette-cut white diamonds. Limited to just nine examples, the rarity is priced at $1.5 million.

Asake: Hublot Big Bang Essential Grey

Nigerian singer-songwriter Asake may not have won the Grammy for Best African Music Performance for “Amapiano,” but did wear a winning Hublot Big Bang at Sunday’s proceedings. Released in 2023, the Essential Grey model is made purely of titanium for a sleek, uniform feel. The 42 mm timepiece was limited to just 100 pieces and cost $37,000 a pop.

John Legend: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding

Multihyphenate John Legend wore a legendary Audemars Piguet with silky Saint Laurent on Sunday evening. The self-winding Royal Oak in question features a 34 mm black ceramic case, a black grande tapisserie dial, and striking pink gold accents. The watchmaker’s signature is also displayed in gold under the sapphire crystal. The piece will set you back $81,000.

Jon Batiste: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon

American musician Jon Batiste received four nominations but no wins at this year’s Grammys. The “Butterfly” singer can take solace in the fact that he looked ultra-sharp in Versace and Vacheron Constantin. A tribute to the spirit of travel, the Overseas Tourbillon features a 42.5 mm white-gold case, a bezel set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds, and a blue dial featuring a dazzling tourbillon cage inspired by the Maltese cross. Price upon request, naturally.

Fireboy DML: Cartier Santos

Fireboy DML’s outfit was straight fire on Sunday night. The Nigerian singer paired an MCM wool jacket with a Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet, several iced-out rings, and a sleek Cartier Santos. The timepiece features a steel case, a graduated blue dial with steel sword-shaped hands, and a seven-sided crown with synthetic faceted blue spinel.

Noah Kahan: Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo

Best New Artist nominee Noah Kahan wore one of Panerai’s best new watches to Sunday’s festivities. The Luminor Quaranta BiTempo features a 40 mm polished steel case and a black dial with luminous numerals and hour markers, a date display at 3 o’clock, and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The timepiece can be yours for $14,000.

Busta Rhymes: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

Legendary rapper Busta Rhymes busted out a chic Audemars Piguet for this year’s Grammys. The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in question is distinguished by a 42 mm rose-gold case and a matching pink méga tapisserie dial with an outer flange for the tachymeter scale. The face is fitted with three black subdials, large black numerals, and a black date display at 3 o’clock. You can expect to pay around $61,200 for the chronograph on the secondary market.

Jack Antonoff: Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

Producer of the year Jack Antonoff took to the red carpet with a stylish Cartier on his wrist. The Tank Louis Cartier in question appears to be a large 33.7 mm example that features an 18-carat rose-gold case, a silvered dial with black Roman numerals and blued steel hands, a beaded crown set with a sapphire cabochon, and a brown alligator strap. It’ll set you back $19,900.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

This 44-Foot Carbon-Fiber Speedboat Can Rocket to 177 KMPH

The new Mayla GT is available with a range of different powertrains, too.

By Rachel Cormack 03/02/2024

We knew the Mayla GT would be one of the most exciting boats at Boot Düsseldorf, but a deep dive into the specs shows it could be downright revolutionary.

The brainchild of German start-up Mayla, the 44-footer brings you the blistering performance of a speedboat and the luxe amenities of a motor yacht in one neat carbon-fiber package.

Inspired by the go-fast boats of the 1970s and ‘80s, the GT sports an angular, retro-futuristic body and the sleek lines of a rocket ship. Tipping the scales at just 4500 kilograms, the lightweight design features a deep-V hull with twin transversal steps and patented Petestep deflectors that help it slice through the waves with ease. In fact, Mayla says the deflectors decrease energy usage by up to 35 percent while ensuring a more efficient planing.

The range-topping GT can reach 185 kph. MAYLA

The GT is also capable of soaring at breakneck speeds, with the option of a gas, diesel, electric, or hybrid powertrain. The range-topping GTR-R model packs dual gas-powered engines that can churn out 3,100 hp for a top speed of more than 100 knots (185 kph). At the other, more sustainable end of the spectrum, the E-GT is fitted with an electric powertrain that can produce 2,200 horses for a max speed of 50 knots. The hybrid E-GTR pairs that same electric powertrain with a 294 kilowatt diesel engine for a top speed of 60 knots (111 km/h/69 mph). (The GT in the water at Boot sported two entry-level V8s good for 650 hp and a top speed of over 70 knots.)

The GT is suitable for more than just high-speed jaunts, of course. The multipurpose cockpit, which can accommodate up to eight passengers, features a sundeck with sliding loungers, a wet bar and BBQ, and a foldaway dining table for alfresco entertaining. Further toward the stern, a beach club sits atop a garage with an electric transom door.

The garage has an electric transom door. MAYLA

The GT is even fit for overnight stays. Below deck lies a cabin with a double bed, sofa, wardrobe, vanity, and en suite. You can also expect a high-tech entertainment system with TVs and premium audio.

As for price, the GT with the entry-level powertrain will cost between $2.7 million and $2.9, depending on the final configuration. (You can fine-tune the layout, hull color, and interiors, naturally.) Interested buyers can set up a sea trial with Mayla, with test-drives set to begin this spring in Europe.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Red Centre

First Nations artist Shaun Daniel Allen joins forces with Chopard to create a timepiece inspired by the Australian landscape.

By Horacio Silva 29/01/2024

Shaun Daniel Allen does not look like your typical collaborator on a prestige watch. For one, Shal, as he prefers to be known (“There are many Shauns but only one Shal,” he explains), is more heavily tattooed than your average roadie. His youthful appearance, bad-boy ink and all, belies his 38 years and leads to a disconnect. 

He recounts being recognised on the street recently by a journalist, who, unable to remember his name, shouted out, “Chopard!” “I was with a friend,” Shal says, holding court in his apartment in Sydney’s inner city, “and he’s, like, ‘What the hell? Does that happen to you often?’”

Perhaps because of his body art, he reasons, “People don’t put me and Chopard together.” It’s not hard to understand the confusion, Shal adds; even he was taken aback when Chopard reached out to him about a potential collaboration a little more than a year ago. “When I first went in to see them, I was, like, I don’t know if I’m your guy. I’m not used to being in those rooms and having those conversations.”

He’ll have to adapt quickly to his new reality. Last month Chopard released Shal’s interpretation of the Swiss brand’s storied Alpine Eagle model, which in itself was a redo of the St. Moritz, the first watch creation by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (now Co-President of Chopard) in the late 1970s. 

Previewed at Sydney’s About Time watch fair in September, to not insignificant interest, and officially known as the Alpine Eagle Sunburnt, the exclusive timepiece—issued in a limited edition of 20—arrives as a stainless steel 41 mm with a 60-hour power reserve and a burnt red dial that brings to mind the searing Outback sun. Its see-through caseback features one of Shal’s artworks painted on sapphire glass.

When the reputable Swiss luxury brand approached Shal, they already had the red dial—a nod to the rich ochre hues of the Australian soil at different times of the day and gradated so that the shades become darker around the edges—locked in as a lure for Australian customers.

Shal was charged with designing an artful caseback and collectible hand-painted sustainable wooden case. After presenting a handful of paintings, each with his signature abstract motifs that pertain to indigenous emblems, tattoos and music, both parties landed on a serpentine image that evoked the coursing of rivers. “I have been painting a lot of water in this last body of work and the image we chose refers to the rivers at home,” he says, alluding to formative years spent at his grandfather’s, just outside of Casino.

It says a lot about Chopard, Shal points out, that they wanted to donate to a charity of his choosing. “Like everything else on this project,” he explains, “they were open to listening and taking new ideas on board and it actually felt like a collaboration, like they weren’t steering me into any corner.”

In another nice touch, a portion of the proceeds from sales of the watch will go to funding programs of the Ngunya Jarjum Aboriginal Corporation—an organisation, established in 1995 by Bundjalung elders, whose work Shal saw firsthand after the 2022 eastern Australia flood disasters ravaged their area. “Seeing Ngunya Jarjum suffer from the floods,” he says, “and knowing how much they do for the community on Bundjalung Country was heartbreaking. I want to see Bundjalung families thriving and supported.”

So what’s it been like for this booster of Australian waterways to be swimming in the luxury end of the pool? “I’ve done a few things with brands,” he offers, referring to the Louis Vuitton project earlier this year at an art gallery in Brisbane, “but nothing on this scale. It’s definitely fancier than I’m used to but I’m not complaining.” Neither are watch aficionados.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected