The 8 Most Important New Timepieces At Geneva Watch Days

Introductions ran the gamut from gem-set bling watches to minimalist statement makers.

By Victoria Gomelsky 06/09/2022

Geneva Watch Days began in the winter of 2020 as an ambitious yet uncertain effort to bring the Swiss watch industry together during the anxiety-riddled early months of the pandemic. Two years later, the decentralized gathering has blossomed into a bona fide event on the luxury watch calendar, with around 40 brands taking the last few days of August to exhibit their newest models at hotels, boutiques and manufactures around the city.

At this year’s showing, a few themes emerged, from the new favored case material (“Gold is back,” Edouard Meylan, CEO at H. Moser & Cie., tells Robb Report) to a growing embrace of minimal, modern styles that suggest the reign of vintage-inspired design may be nearing its natural conclusion.

Below, we highlight a few of our favourite timepieces from the slew of collections unveiled in Geneva.

Bulgari

Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Bulgari

In 2014, when Bulgari introduced the hand-wound Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, a 5-millimetre-thick titanium watch with a round bezel and octagonal case, its success was not a foregone conclusion. Today, less than a decade since that auspicious introduction, the Octo Finissimo series, overseen by designer Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, has earned raves for its design and technical mastery as well as several world records for thinness. The latest entrant in the collection, the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days, comes in a sleek 40mm satin-polished 18k rose gold case that houses a new hand-wound manufacture movement, the extra-fine calibre BVL 199 SK. With its 8-day power reserve and precious packaging, the timepiece upholds the Finissimo tradition of combining watchmaking prowess with streamlined design. Molto bene! $55,000; Bulgari.com

Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition

Bulgari Octo Finissimo "Sejima" Edition

Bulgari Octo Finissimo “Sejima” Edition Bulgari

The starkness and simplicity of the Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition designed for Bulgari by Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima are sure to thrill lovers of minimalist style. The Pritzker Prize-winning architect had a sapphire crystal dial polished to within an inch of its life, achieving a mirror effect that plays with notions of transparency. Available in a 360-piece limited edition, the model features both figurative and literal Sejima signatures: The architect’s metalized dot pattern graces the dial, while her name appears in distinctive lettering on the transparent caseback of the 40mm polished steel case. $20,900; Bulgari.com

Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon Bulgari

Black-tie glamour meets high horology in the new Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon. Both the watch’s 34 mm tear-drop-shaped white gold case and dial are entirely covered in white diamonds, in sharp contrast to the bezel, which is set with 7 carats of black spinels. Inside, a dainty mechanical tourbillon movement proves this beauty has brains. The study in contrast suggests “a bold determination to combine the mad rush of time with the immortal nature of precious stones,” as Bulgari’s marketing materials so beautifully describe it. $271,640;Bulgari.com

De Bethune

DB25 Perpetual Calendar

De Bethune DB25sQP

De Bethune DB25sQP De Bethune

In the 11 years since De Bethune introduced the DB25 Perpetual Calendar, the piece has been housed inside a robust 44 mm case. Now, the model is available in a 40mm titanium case, reflecting an industry-wide downsizing trend. Equipped with calibre DB2324V2, an improved version of the latest calibre DB2324, technically adapted to fit within the smaller case, the QP dazzles with its classic, perfectly proportioned bi-colour silver and blue dial. With its guilloché pattern, spherical moonphase set beneath 12 o’clock and star-studded sky in blued titanium, inlaid with rose gold stars, the model proves good things do, indeed, come in small(er) packages. $212,910; Debethune.ch

H. Moser & Cie.

Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack Gold

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack Gold H. Moser & Cie

In a striking sign that gold is the new steel, H. Moser & Cie. used Geneva Watch Days as the occasion to debut its popular Streamliner timepiece in a warm 5N red gold 40mm case. “We had a wave of integrated steel bracelets in the past,” CEO Edouard Meylan tells Robb Report. “People want more value.” Of course, the precious metal isn’t the only material worth noting on the watch, which features a dial layered in Vantablack, a type of super-black coating invented by the nanotechnology industry for use in aeronautics. Moser first made use of the material on its 2018 Endeavour Perpetual Moon and applies it to the new automatic tourbillon to great effect. “It’s about the tourbillon flying and having this void around it, the Vantablack,” says Meylan. “There’s this mystic aspect behind the material. You cannot grasp it in a picture. The camera is not capable of finding the right depth because it cannot focus on anything. You have to hold in your hands.” 109,000 Swiss francs (about $167,700); H-moser.com

MB&F

Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO in Icy Cool and Beverly Hills Editions

MB&F LM Split Escapement EVO Icy Cool and Beverly Hills Edition

MB&F LM Split Escapement EVO Icy Cool and Beverly Hills Edition MB&F

The new LM Split Escapement EVO marries two essential MB&F creations in one complicated yet sporty timepiece. The story of the split escapement begins in 2015, when the Northern Irish master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell conceived of a novel way to feature a large balance wheel on the front of an MB&F perpetual calendar while moving the remaining parts of the escapement — the anchor and escape wheel — to the opposite side of the movement (hence, the split moniker). His invention got its proper due in 2017 when the brand introduced the LM Split Escapement in its own right. Three years later, MB&F debuted the EVO case featuring 80 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap, a bezel-free design and a movement suspended in a monobloc shock-absorbing “FlexRing” system. Now both the movement and case innovations are combined in the Icy Cool edition, which comes in a 44mm grade 5 titanium case with a pale blue base plate and slate grey dial. A second Beverly Hills edition destined for MB&F’s new retail concept, MB&F Labs, opening on Rodeo Drive this fall in collaboration with Westime, features the retailer’s corporate colours of blue and black. Catch it if you can. approx. $117,450; MBandF.com

Ulysse Nardin

Blast Rainbow

Ulysse Nardin Blast Rainbow

Ulysse Nardin Blast Rainbow Ulysse Nardin

When Ulysse Nardin introduced the radical-looking Freak watch in 2001, not only did the brand pave the way for a contemporary reinterpretation of watch design, but it also ushered in an era of mechanical sophistication thanks to its pioneering use of silicium, a material that has since revolutionized mechanical watchmaking by eliminating the need for lubricants like oil. In an homage to the material, and its array of colours comes the Blast Rainbow in a limited edition of 50 pieces. Housed in a 45mm black ceramic and black DLC titanium case, the UN-172 manufacture automatic skeleton movement incorporates a flying tourbillon. But the real party is on the bezel, where 3.65 carats of baguette-cut rubies and multicoloured sapphires create a dazzling rainbow effect. approx. $131,700; Ulysse-nardin.com

Lady Diver Rainbow

Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver Rainbow

Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver Rainbow Ulysse Nardin

Two new rainbow-hued iterations of the 2019 Lady Diver, one in white and the other in black (each available in a limited edition of 300 timepieces), transform this utilitarian sports watch, water resistant to 300metres, into a crossover piece appropriate for evening wear. With 40 gems (including ruby, aquamarine, topaz, tsavorite and sapphire) decorating the watch’s concave unidirectional bezel and 11 diamonds adorning the indexes, you’re bound to catch the light, even down in the deep. approx. $19,960; Ulysse-nardin.com

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected

Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

Buy the Magazine

Subscribe today

Stay Connected