Why The Rolex Daytona Is The World’s Most Wanted Watch

The nearly 60-year-old model didn’t always inspire the breathless fascination it does today.

By Oren Hartov 28/07/2022

Here’s something that’s tough to believe these days: The Rolex Daytona wasn’t always a sold-out, smash hit.

That’s right—and all the more so with those beloved “Paul Newman” models, the ones with the funky typeface and red accents that tend to make headlines these days. Those things languished in shop windows for years.

The model is now the object of desire to everyone from horological newbies to dedicated collectors. Paul Newman’s own “Paul Newman” Daytona famously fetched nearly $25.7 million at auction in 2017. So, how is it that this humble (originally hand-wound) chronograph came to be so beloved the world over?

The Backstory

Rolex, of course, had been making chronographs for decades before it came up with the Daytona (which was originally signed simply “Cosmograph,” minus the “Daytona” moniker). During WWII, the company housed triple-register chronographs in Oyster cases, while in the 1950s, it began experimenting with watches that clearly foreshadowed the Daytona with similar design language. Reference 6234 has more of that wartime look but by the time the ref. 6238 rolls around in 1962—the so-called “pre-Daytona”—it’s clear to see where the world’s most famous chronograph got its start.

Housed in a 36mm stainless steel or yellow gold case and available with a silver, black or dark grey dial, the 6238 featured baton hands, faceted, applied hour markers, luminous hour plots, and unthreaded pump pushers. Powered by the hand-wound Valjoux 72 movement and available on steel Rolex bracelets, it was a sporty, handsome chronograph that needed very little tweaking before it took on the form that’s come to command such enormous sums at auction.

That same year, Rolex became the official timing partner of the speedway in Daytona, Florida. This partnership would lead to the eponymous watch we all know and love.

Important Daytona Models

The Hand-Wound Era

The Daytona was originally a mechanical chronograph—powered by the Valjoux cal. 72 or a variant thereof, it needed to be wound each day. This era lasted from 1963 until 1987—in 1988, Rolex unveiled the first automatic model.

Ref. 6239

Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6239

Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6239 Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s

The OG Daytona launched in 1963, with the ref. 6239, which was the very first “official” Daytona model. Housed in a (roughly) 37mm steel or gold case, it featured “Rolex Cosmograph” on the black or white dial under the 12 o’clock logo and was powered, like the ref. 6238 “pre-Daytona,” by the hand-wound Valjoux 72 movement (later customized by Rolex and renamed or the Cal. 722). It also featured, like that model, unthreaded pump pushers, meaning water resistance was limited. Now here’s the kicker: The ref. 6239 in its pre-1965 styling did not feature “Daytona” on the dial at all; later versions did, either above the 6 o’clock subdial or beneath the “Rolex Cosmograph” marking at 12 o’clock. Also, note the stick hands and markers and the lack of a contrasting background against the outer minute and ⅕th-second track, as well as the bezel inscribed with a tachymeter scale (a first for Rolex).

 

 

Rolex "Paul Newman" Daytona Ref. 6263 with Exotic Dial

Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona Ref. 6263 with Exotic Dial Sotheby’s

The birth of the “Paul Newman” Daytona also coincides with that of the ref. 6239. (A “Newman” can be one of several Daytona references, as it’s indicative of a particular dial type, not a case type.) Called “exotic dials” by Rolex, these special dials were made by Singer and featured red “Daytona” text (though not on the earliest iterations) and Art Deco-esque Arabic indices on the sub-registers with dot markers. (It’s said that roughly one in 20 hand-wound Daytonas featured an exotic dial.) They also featured a contrasting seconds track with red markings on the outer edge of the dial. Available in steel or gold cases, these models originally didn’t sell well and languished on shelves.

Paul Newman was known to have worn one of these exotic-dialled watches, which was given to him by his wife Joan Woodward. At some point in the 1980s, Italian collectors began associating the exotic dials with the famed American actor, giving rise to the term “Paul Newman dial.” Of course, when Newman’s own “Newman” came up for sale in 2017, its nearly $26 million hammer price was due in no small part to the fact that this was the very watch that gave rise to an industry-wide obsession.

Ref. 6240

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6240

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6240 Sotheby’s

1965’s Ref. 6240 was a big deal in that it was the first Daytona model to feature screw-down pushers, thus rendering it highly water-resistant. Housed in a 37.5mm steel case and available with a black, white or silvered dial, it was powered by the Valjoux 722 hand-wound movement and went through several evolutions: While standard variants feature “Daytona” under “Cosmograph,” a rarer version, called a “Solo” dial, sees only the Rolex signature without “Oyster Cosmograph.” Each version featured an engraved, black acrylic tachymeter bezel, while “Paul Newman” variants featured the same dial as a ref. 6239 “Newman,” or featured “Daytona” under “Cosmograph.” Only roughly 1,700 pieces of the ref. 6240 are thought to have been made.

Ref. 6241

Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6241 from 1968

Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6241 from 1968 Phillips

Beginning in roughly 1965 or 1966, Rolex began production of another pump pusher-equipped reference, the 6241. Measuring 37.5mm in steel or gold and featuring an acrylic bezel, it was powered by the hand-wound Valjoux 727 and was available with either a standard or “Newman” dial in black or white. Roughly 3,000 pieces were produced during its production run, which lasted until around 1969.

Ref. 6263

Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Oyster Soto Ref. 6263

Rolex Cosmograph “Paul Newman” Daytona “Oyster Soto” Ref. 6263 Courtesy of Eric Wind

Once again, in 1963 Rolex chose screw-down pushers for its new Daytona reference, the 6263. This is a nuanced model, full of small variants: Housed in a 37.5mm case and powered by the Valjoux cal. 727—certain examples were chronometer-certified, which began in the 1970s—it came in either a steel or gold case (only 2,000 or so pieces were made in gold) in either a standard or “Newman” dial. (The “Newman” dials, however, lacked the red “Cosmograph” text of other “Newmans.”) “Daytona” text appeared either under “Cosmograph,” above the 6 o’clock subdial, or not at all on the standard dial variants. Each watch was also equipped with an acrylic bezel. Interestingly, this reference was in production until 1987, a year before Rolex began outfitting the Daytona with automatic Zenith-made movements.

Ref. 6265

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6265

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Big Red” Ref. 6265 Rolex

This reference was fairly similar to the 6263—we still have a stainless steel or gold case, this time at roughly 37mm, and still have the hand-wound Valjoux 727 movement and the screw-down pushers. However, the 6265 featured a stainless steel or gold tachymeter bezel with black indices. A special version of the standard (non-”Newman”) dial is called the “Big Red,” and features “Daytona” in red text above the 6 o’clock subdial. Interestingly, many “Newman” dials do not feature “Daytona” above 6 o’clock. The 6265 was also in production until 1987.

Ref. 6262

Lot 33 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6262

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6262 Phillips

This highly rare, pump pusher-equipped reference was made for a very short time in 1970 to 1971. Housed in a steel or gold 37mm case and powered by the Valjoux cal. 727, the Ref. 6262 was offered with either a standard or “Newman” dial in black or white. Certain casebacks are (correctly) inscribed “6239” meaning that the company was using older cases to produce the 6262.

Ref. 6264

Sotheby's Rolex Daytona "John Player Special" Ref. 6264

Sotheby’s Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” Ref. 6264 Courtesy of Sotheby’s

This reference is notable for its limited production (roughly three years in the early ‘70s) and for being the last pump pusher-equipped model. Its 37mm case came in either steel (roughly 1,700 examples) or gold, and it was powered once again by the Valjoux cal. 727. It featured a black acrylic tachymeter scale which, when combined with the pump pushers, made the 6264 the first (and last) reference to feature this combination. Both standard and “Newman” dials were on offer, with the “Newmans” featuring either colour-coordinated seconds-track markings or red ones.

The Zenith Era

In 1988, Rolex switched began using the Zenith-produced El Primero automatic movement, which is famous for having been one of the first automatic chronograph calibres upon its release in 1969. Originally a hi-beat movement, Rolex dubbed this El Primero variant the Caliber 4040, certified it as a chronometer and slowed down the beat rate to 28,800vph from 36,600vph in an effort to increase power reserve and lengthen service intervals. The watch’s case size also increased to 40mm, which is where it remains today. These “Zenith” Daytonas are highly sought after by collectors.

Ref. 16520

Rolex Cosmograph Zenith Daytona Ref. 16520 with 225 tachymeter scales

Rolex Cosmograph “Zenith” Daytona Ref. 16520 Courtesy of Phillips

Production on this first El Primero-equipped reference lasted from 1988-2000. Featuring a 40mm stainless steel case, it featured either a white or black dial, a steel bezel, screw-down pushers, and, for the first time, sapphire crystal. (There were three different bezels and five different dial variations during the watch’s production run.)

Ref. 16523/16528

Rolex Daytona Ref. 16528

Rolex Daytona Ref. 16528 Courtesy of Christie’s

These are essentially ref. 16520s in precious metals: the Ref. 16523 came in two-tone gold and steel, while the Ref. 16528 came in solid gold. Dials were back, white or gold, while some were equipped with diamond indices. “Daytona” is found in red above the 6 o’clock sub-dial.

The In-House Era

In 2000, Rolex released the first Daytona with an in-house, Rolex-produced movement, the Cal. 4130. Automatic and featuring column wheel actuators, it featured an increased power reserve of 72 hours, and the brand subtly upgraded it as new technology became available. Due to the movement’s design, the Daytona’s running seconds moved from 9 o’clock to 6 o’clock, while the dial also changed somewhat—if you look carefully, you’ll see that these newer Daytona models feature wider, arrow-shaped indices filled amply with lume.

Ref. 116520

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116520

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116520 Sotheby’s

Produced from 2000 to 2016, the ref. 116520 is aesthetically similar to the previous generation of Zenith Daytonas—the reference number simply adds a “1”—but features an in-house Rolex movement. This stainless steel model featured a case diameter of 40mm, was available in a black or white dial, and had a fixed steel bezel with a tachymeter scale. Sapphire crystal, 100m of water resistance and an Oyster bracelet rounded out the package.

Ref. 116500LN

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN

Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN WatchBox

This is the current-production “Oystersteel” Daytona. Introduced in 2016, it features all the fixings—a 40mm case with screw-down pushers, an Oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterlock safety clasp and Easylink comfort extension, the in-house Cal. 4130, and, most notably, a Cerachrom ceramic bezel with an engraved tachymeter scale. As usual, it’s available in black or white.

Other Modern Daytonas

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona "Eye of the Tiger"

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Eye of the Tiger” Ref. 116588TBR Rolex

The current-production Daytona is available in more varieties than one can safely shake a stick at. It comes in several iterations of solid gold, two-tone, platinum, and even comes with a rubber strap in place of the typical Oyster bracelet. On top of this, there are special, limited-production dials with precious gems-studded bezels, wild dials, and more. At this point, the sky is sort of the limit for Rolex’s most in-demand model.

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Minerality in Wine, Explained: How It Affects Taste, Aroma and Texture

And an exploration of the regions that produce great mineral-driven varietals.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 07/05/2024

If you have taken part in a wine tasting, read an article about wine, or even glanced at the back label of a bottle of wine, you have likely encountered the word minerality. But defining what that means exactly is where the problems can start—even wine experts disagree on what it is and how it expresses itself in the glass.

Minerality refers to a flavour profile and often a palpable sensation in the mouth. The flavours generally involve rocks or fossils, such as stone, river rock, flint, gravel, slate, asphalt and oyster shell. There is also a sense of salinity, often derived from volcanic soils, that is a component of mineral-driven wines. This is different from other earthy flavours such as forest floor or peat. When we host tastings, very few people will own up to having licked rocks as a child, but almost everyone has gotten a stray bit of oyster or clam shell in their mouth and can recall the taste and texture. Most of us can remember the scent of a chalkboard or pencil lead from our childhood, and even those who have never fired a gun are familiar with flint or gunpowder from firecrackers.

When minerality is discussed, it is often a quality ascribed to white wine such as Riesling, Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc or Burgundian Chardonnay. We may not hear about minerality in red wine so much because the oak used for maturation may mask the flavours and aromas associated with minerality. However, two reds sometimes described as having mineral qualities are those from the volcanic soils of Mount Etna in Sicily and the shale and quartz vineyards of Priorat in Spain. A prime example of the mineral-driven style is Chablis in the northernmost reaches of Burgundy, whose wines are made with 100 percent Chardonnay. The wines have a distinctly different character than the oaky, buttery style prevalent in Napa Valley and further south in Burgundy.

Walking through the vineyards of Chablis you can see abundant fossilised oyster shells that date back 150 million years to the Upper Jurassic period, when this area was at the bottom of the sea. Dig a bit; you will find calcified ammonites and spiral-shaped cephalopods from the same era. While vineyard soil is a discussion for another day, the grey limestone here is called Kimmeridgian, named for the village of Kimmeridge in Dorset, England, where it was first identified. As Thierry Bellicaud, president of Domaine Laroche in Chablis told Robb Report, “The Kimmeridgian limestone soil, which is unique to this area, delivers all needed nutrients for the balance of the vines. The terroir nurtures the vines which then express its personality in the grapes.”

Fossils from ancient seabeds contribute to the flavour of the wine.
DOMAINE LAROCHE, CHABLIS, FRANCE

Asked how soil composition influences one of Domaine Laroche’s wines, Bellicaud referenced its Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots, “Les Blanchots is a unique terroir made of a layer of white clay on Kimmeridgian limestone with ammonites. This is the ideal combination to keep the right amount of water for the roots. The southeast exposure allows slow ripening and favours aroma development. It is one of the areas in the appellation where you can easily find oyster fossils (called Exogyra virgula). The Grand Cru Les Blanchots is delicate, refined and silky in texture.”

Assyrtiko from Santorini is almost always described as possessing a mineral quality as well as a touch of salinity, which can be attributed to the black volcanic soil in which it grows as well as to the Aegean Seaspray that wafts over the island’s vineyards. Mosel Valley Riesling’s leanness and flinty character come from the red and blue limestone in which it is cultivated.

Italy’s Soave region is also known for the minerality of its wine. Alessio Inama, third-generation family leader and director of sales, marketing and communication at Inama Azienda Agricola, told Robb Report, “Soave Classico is a volcanic region with soil made up of basaltic rocks, volcanic tuffs and ashes that date back 30 million years. The soils offer minerals in their natural form, which impact the composition of the plants themselves. In the case of grape vines, the soils have a major influence on the resulting flavours of the wines, which are mineral and floral.”

Known for their scrupulous mapping of micro-plots within their vineyards, the Inamas produce several different Soave wines made with the Garganega grape. Inama I Palchi Foscarino Grande Cuvée Soave DOC is crafted from the family’s best plots on Monte Foscarino. Inama explained, “The soil of Foscarino is a mix of pure magma, ashes and basaltic rocks that deteriorated over millions of years into a dark clay that is extremely rich in minerals. The grapes from those 40-year-old vines have strong personality, great intensity and texture, delivering a complex bouquet of white flowers, citrus notes and flinty sensations.”

The Priorat wine region in Spain is known for its minerality.
SCALA DEI, PRIORAT, SPAIN

While the sensation of minerality can be less obvious in red wines, Spanish Garnacha and Sicilian Nerello Mascalese are two grapes that often exhibit it, thanks to both the locales from which they hail as well as the often-judicious use of oak. The slopes of eastern Sicily’s Mount Etna are covered with volcanic soils composed of pumice, black ash and basalt. Priorat, a region close to Barcelona in northeast Spain, is blessed with black quartz, slate and mica soils called llicorella. Here you will find vineyards covered with small fragments of black and grey striated rock sitting atop blue and red soils embedded with the same.

Ricard Rofes, winemaker at Scala Dei in Priorat, refers to its Mas Deu vineyard as one of the winery’s “jewels.” The origin of Scala Dei Tribut and Masdeu, it sits 800 meters (2,625 feet) above sea level. Rofes told Robb Report, “In this elevated area the clay and limestone soils are ideal for growing Grenache, giving the wine that touch of acidity and freshness that makes it unique. The red-clay soils and the altitude of the vineyards located in the lap of the Sierra de Montsant give it freshness and the llicorella soils impart a genuine imprint. Our wine is the pure expression of the fruit and the terroir with a distinct personality.”

 

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Best fo Europe: Six Senses, Switzerland 

Mend in the mountains at Crans-Montana.

By The Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Wellness pioneer Six Senses made a name for itself with tranquil, mostly tropical destinations. Now, its first alpine hotel recreates that signature mix of sustainable luxury and innovative spa therapeutics in a world-class ski setting. 

The ski-in, ski-out location above the gondola of one of Switzerland’s largest winter sports resorts allows guests to schuss from the top of the Plaine Morte glacier to the hotel’s piste-side lounge, where they can swap ski gear for slippers, then head straight to the spa’s bio-hack recovery area to recharge with compression boots, binaural beats and an herb-spiked mocktail. In summer, the region is a golf and hiking hub. 

The vibe offers a contemporary take on chalet style. The 78 rooms and suites are decorated in local larch and oak, and all have terraces or balconies with alpine views over the likes of the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. With four different saunas, a sensory flotation pod, two pools
and a whimsical relaxation area complete with 15,000 hanging “icicles” and views of a birch forest, the spa at Six Senses Crans-Montana makes après ski an afterthought.

You can even sidestep the cheese-heavy cuisine of this region in favour of hot pots and sushi at the property’s Japanese restaurant, Byakko. Doubles from around $1,205; Sixsenses.com

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Best of Europe: Grand Hotel Des Étrangers

Fall for a Baroque beauty in Syracuse, Italy.

By Robb Report Team 06/05/2024

Sicily has seen a White Lotus–fuelled surge in bookings for this summer—a pop-culture fillip to fill up its grandes dames hotels. Skip the gawping crowds at the headline-grabbers, though, and opt instead for an insider-ish alternative: the Grand Hotel des Étrangers, which reopened last summer after a gut renovation.

It sits on the seafront on the tiny island of Ortigia in Syracuse, all cobbled streets and grand buildings, like a Baroque time capsule on Sicily’s southeastern coast. 

Survey the entire streetscape here from the all-day rooftop bar-restaurant, Clou, where the fusion menu is a shorthand of Sicily’s pan-Mediterranean history; try the spaghetti with bottarga and wild fennel or the sea bass crusted in anchovies. Idle on the terrace alfresco with a snifter of avola, the rum made nearby. 

Image: Benedetto Tarantino

As for the rooms, they’ve been renovated with Art Deco–inflected interiors—think plenty of parquet and marble—but the main asset is their aspect: the best of them have private balconies and a palm tree-fringed view out over the Ionian Sea. Doubles from around $665; desetranger.com

 

 

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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